What you need to know

• Grid Studio might have created one of the greatest Apple holiday gifts ever.
• It has created a 'Grid 4S', a framed iPhone 4S turned into art by displaying all of its individual parts.

A company by the name of Grid Studio has created what might just be the coolest Apple Christmas gift ever.

The 'Grid 4S' is a piece of A3 artwork, made up of the individual parts of an old iPhone 4S put on display. Around forty pieces, the components are individually placed and glued on an Apple-esque white background, complete with measurements and labels so you know exactly what you're looking at.

At $140 + shipping, it certainly isn't the cheapest Apple gift you could buy, but it strikes us a really unique piece of artwork that would look great in any office or in the home.

Grid Studio specializes in handmade, industrial artwork, and the 'Grid 4S' piece has rave reviews on its site page. One user noting:

From Grid's website:

GRID 4S

Grid Studio also has a BlackBerry 9000 on its website with a 'stay tuned' message.

On October 3, 2011, at the "Let's Talk iPhone" event, Apple announced the successor to the iPhone 4. The iPhone 4S, which was eventually retroactively stylized with a lowercase "s," was revealed just hours before Apple co-founder Steve Jobs died at the age of 56. For me, the iPhone 4s will always be the one "4 Steve," and therefore Apple's product of the year for 2011.

In June 2010, my professional life was at a crossroads. After spending nearly a decade as an information technology manager, I began dabbling in blog writing for a technology site. Within a year, I would ditch my day job and decide to write from home full time. Nearly a decade after making that decision, which eventually led me to iMore, I continue to believe it was inspiration from Jobs that convinced me to make a positive career change.

It was during that month's Worldwide Developers Conference (WWDC) when the late Apple co-founder revealed what would be the final iPhone of his tenure as Apple CEO. The still-electric iPhone 4 launched just months after the first-generation Apple iPad wowed the world. Collectively, the two products reaffirmed what millions of us already knew about Apple and continue to believe today:

Apple is much more than a computer company. It's also a way of life.

The iPhone 4s

In the long history of iPhones, the iPhone 4s is still remembered as one of the best. In August, our readers ranked the iPhone 4s the No. 3 iPhone of all time.

The iPhone 4s included one important first. While I and many others will forever think of the handset as the one "4 Steve," the "s" in the iPhone 4s name stands for Siri. The intelligent personal assistant, whose original internals were purchased by Apple a year earlier, was available exclusively on the iPhone 4s for a limited time. Today, Siri has firmly taken residence across nearly all Apple products, including iPad, Apple Watch, Apple TV, HomePod, and Mac.

Eventually, the iPhone 4s collected other firsts. When iOS 9 launched in 2015, the iPhone 4s became the first iPhone to support five major versions of iOS. In July 2019, Apple released iOS 9.3.6, which made the iPhone 4s the longest-supported iPhone.

The iPhone 4s officially arrived in stores on October 11, 2011. At least one variation would remain on the market until September 2014. The iPhone 4s included a stainless steel, dual cellular antenna design, and shipped with a 3.5-inch multi-touch display. Inside, you would find a dual-core Apple A5 chip, 512MB DDR2 RAM, and 8, 16, 32, or 64GB of storage.

Available in both CDMA and GSM formats, the iPhone 4s included an iSight camera with 8-megapixels and was able to record 1080p videos at up to 30 frames per second. The built-in gyroscope added image stabilization; other photo-related features included macro for up-close pictures and faster capture.

Other 2011 debuts

Jobs' prolonged illness, which eventually led to his death, almost certainly caused a slowdown in product launches for Apple in 2011. Before resigning as Apple CEO in August, Jobs would announce the iPad 2 in March of that year. In June, Apple announced Mac OS X Lion and iOS 5 at WWDC. The fourth-generation Time Capsule and cloud services iCloud and iTunes Match also made debuts during the year.

Everything considered, however, it was the iPhone 4s that will forever be known as the Apple gadget of 2011!

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What you need to know

• Apple introduced the iPhone 4S eight years ago.
• Apple VP Phil Schiller took the stage to unveil the successor to the iPhone 4.
• It was the last iPhone unveiled while Steve Jobs was still alive.

On October 4, 2011, Apple VP Phil Schiller took the stage during Apple's fall event and unveiled the iPhone 4S. The iPhone 4S was the follow-up to the iconic iPhone 4 that ushered in a new era of premium smartphone design. With the eighth anniversary falling today, let's take a look back at the iPhone 4S.

When Apple unveiled the iPhone 4S, it was entering a new era. Steve Jobs had recently stepped down as CEO of the company to focus on his battle with pancreatic cancer. This forced Tim Cook into the spotlight to lead Apple into its next phase. That started with the iPhone 4S.

The iPhone 4S was the "s" version upgrade of the iPhone 4, which meant it didn't usher anything new design-wise aside from fixing the antennagate problem and adding a new white color option. Instead, most of the big features came inside with the powerful A5 chip, iCloud, vastly improved 8MP camera and Siri voice assistant.

Unsurprisingly, the iPhone 4S was an instant hit and cemented another hit for Apple.

Even now, the iPhone 4S' legacy is still palpable. Its refined focus on the camera jumpstarted the smartphone camera wars (that are still raging on today) while the introduction of Siri paved the way for Google Assistant, Alexa and Cortana that have since migrated beyond the smartphone.

Speaking of legacy, it was also the last iPhone Apple made with a 3.5-inch display. A year later, the iPhone 5 came with a 4-inch display and they have only gotten bigger in the years since.

Some other interesting anecdotes are that it only cost $199 (on a subsidized contract) and started with a paltry 16GB of storage. Times have changed.

It was the first iPhone I purchased and was my wow moment into the world of iPhones. I came from a BlackBerry Torch that offered an antiquated "smartphone" experience and using iOS 5 on the Retina display truly blew my mind. It made me feel anything was possible.

Let us know in the comments down below if you remember when the iPhone 4S was announced?

The history of the iPhone 4S

What you need to know

• Analyst Ming-Chi Kuo thinks an iPhone 4-like redesign is coming.
• Ben Geskin has shared a render of what that might look like.
• It's gold. It looks gorgeous. We want three.

We've been chewing on rumors of a new iPhone 4-like redesign of the 2020 iPhone since analyst Ming-Chi Kuo suggested it's in the cards. And now leaker and concept creator Ben Geskin has shared his take on what that might look like.

Oh, and the concept might be for the most gorgeous gold iPhone we've ever seen.

There are a couple of things of note about these renders, apart from the fact that we'd start lining up for one now if Apple told us this was the 2020 iPhone ahead of time.

First – and perhaps most notable – is the lack of a notch. We haven't seen any rumors to suggest that we will see the notch go away as soon as next year. And considering the intricacies of making that happen while retaining Face ID, we won't hold our breath. Geskin appears to have taken some liberties with the design there, but if Apple does delete the notch next year we obviously won't complain.

Moving on, there's the gold color. Whether you prefer a vibrant gold or something more subtle is subjective, but we can tell you right now that we're all about this gold. It's gold, but not too gold. You know?

We have to wrap things up with that metal band. It looks just like an iPhone 4 which is still as iconic today as it was when it was found in a bar way back when. We can't imagine many disagreeing, either.

Whether any of this turns out to be what we get come September 2020, who knows. We can hope, that's for sure. And if you want to see what that might look like in silver, we'll leave you with that. Just don't sit and stare at it all day, OK?

Checkm8 is a bootrom-level security exploit that can be used against every iPhone from the 4S to the X. It was announced late last week by axi0mX — axi0mX… axi0m10… dammit, Apple! — and ever since we've seen everything from fear, uncertainty, and doubt, to supremely good reporting on what it is, what it isn't, and most importantly, what it means for all of us.

So, let's try to sort it all out.

Now, before we dive in, I'm not an infosec expert nor do I play one on the internet. Checkm8 is absolutely serious but very specific and in some ways very limited. It's certainly helpful for jailbreakers and researchers that it exists, probably neutral good for bad actors, and bad for Apple and a black eye for iOS security that'll no doubt drive them even harder to lock things down even better, again.

But, for the average user, the threat level today probably isn't any different than it was a week ago. I'm going to sum up why as best and as accurately as I can, but I'm also going to link up some terrific work by Ars Technica and Malwarebytes in the description. Hit them up for much, much more. Cool? Cool.

So, what's a bootrom exploit?

Bootrom, or secureBoot, is the very first code that runs on an iOS device when it starts up. It lives on a ROM, or read-only memory chip, at the very lowest level of the device, and it typically can't be changed.

A bootrom exploit, then, is an exploit that targets a bug in the Bootrom. That's as opposed to the far, far more common exploits that target bugs at the higher operating system level.

While operating system exploits are far more common, they're also far more easily fixed. Pretty much every time Apple updates iOS, the new version patches security issues with the old version.

Not so with bootrom exploits. Because they're in ROM, they're nigh-impossible to patch. I mean, never say never, but so far, every device with a bootrom that's exploited stays exploited.

And checkmate exploits every device with an A5 to A11 chipset.

Um… which devices are those exactly?

So far, devices affected by checkm8 include:

• iPhone 4s to iPhone X.
• iPad 2 to 7.
• iPad mini 1 to iPad mini 4.
• iPad Pro 1 and 2.
• Apple TV 3 to 4K.
• iPod touch 5 to 7.

Earlier iPhones, iPads, iPods touch, and the like aren't affected by checkm8 (though there are earlier bootrom exploits.). The new entry-level 10.2-inch iPad and iPod touch 7 are on A10, so they're the only current devices currently affected.

Checkm8 doesn't work on A12 or A13, so that means the following devices are NOT affected:

• iPhone XR, XS, 11
• iPad Air 3
• iPad mini 5
• iPad Pro 3 (2019)

As to why, the developer told Arn Technica:

Wait, is checkm8 a jailbreak, and attack, something else?

Checkm8 is an exploit, and that's it, at least for now.

It's something that could and probably will turn into a jailbreak sooner rather than later, but also has some very limited, very targeted potential to be turned into an attack as well.

Given what it is and those limits, though, it's probably not something most of us have to worry about.

Why would an attack be limited?

There are a few things that limit Checkm8's potential as an attack.

First, it can't be executed remotely. Someone has to take physical possession of your iPhone, iPad, or other iOS device first, but it in DFU or device firmware update mode, and then plug it into a PC over USB before they can even use the exploit.

Second, Apple has a secure boot chain, so every step is checked by the previous step. And if the signatures aren't verified, the software won't run.

Checkm8 can't rewrite the bootrom, it can only exploit it. Here's what that means, according to what the developer told Ars:

But what that means is, checkm8 isn't persistent. It can be used to run unsigned code on your device, but that code only lasts until the device is rebooted. Then it goes right back to normal, and you'd have to go through the whole exploit process again to run the unsigned code again.

Third, Checkm8 doesn't compromise the Secure Enclave on the A7 or later, which means it can't beat the hardware encryption, get around Touch ID or Passcode — and doesn't work on devices with Face ID — or otherwise give anyone else access to your data or secrets.

To get at those, you would have too leave your device lying around somewhere vulnerable for an extended amount of time, an attacker would have to get ahold of it, run the exploit, get a hold of and load up malware that could try and capture your credentials, put your device back, and then try to capture them.

And, if they're a disgruntled family member with that kind of access to you and your devices, it'd be far easier to just put your finger on the Touch ID sensor or shoulder surf your passcode over time anyway.

For non-family members, again, the creator talking to Ars:

So, again, never say never.

At large scale, I'm not sure checkm8 changes the economics of iOS attacks. But, if you're concerned, and still running an A5 or A6 device, which Apple is no longer supporting or updating anyway, then add this to the voluminous list of reasons you should consider upgrading asap.

And, if you think, based on who you are or what you do, that you have a much higher potential threat level, then you've probably already, routinely upgraded to the latest silicon anyway.

But, jailbreak, exciting, right?

Jailbreakers are probably the most excited about Checkm8. Now, nowhere nearly as many people jailbreak as they used to because iOS has continued to add more and more of the functionality that people used to jailbreak for. But, the ones that do, the customizers, the tweakers, the unsigned appers — they're every bit as passionate as ever.

And this is like the second coming of the holy grail for them, basically because it's been so long since they've had a jailbreak built off of a bootrom level exploit.

What makes it so attractive to jailbreakers is that, unlike operating system exploits, which have led to jailbreaks as recently as iOS 12 this year, bootrom exploits don't get blown away the very next time Apple releases a software update.

So, the jailbreakers can relax and enjoy their open systems, and likely with any version of iOS past, present, and future, for as long as they're using one of the affected devices.

With a few caveats.

First, it'll only be those devices, iPhone 4s to iPhone X, primarily, and as time passes those devices will be less and less modern and interesting.

Second, even when the jailbreak comes, it will be a tethered jailbreak. At least for now.

That means, yes, putting the device in DFU or device firmware update mode, connecting the device to a PC with a USB cable, and running the jailbreak every time it reboots.

And that might be just enough of a hassle that it'll relegate long term use to the hardcore rather than just the curious.

And researchers?

Security researchers are likely the group that benefits the most from checkm8, at least in the short term.

Up until a month or so ago, when Apple announced their new bug bounty program and research-fused devices, researchers had to come up with their own exploit chains or get their hands on blackmarket dev-fused devices to even get into iOS and start poke around.

So, having a likely irrevocable bootrom level exploits, even if only for older devices, will make researchers lives just that much easier. Basically, it solidifies the first link in the exploit chain for them, and they can just get on with everything else.

And even before Apple starts shipping those research-fused devices.

What about nation states?

What does this mean for nation states and government agencies, and the companies that supply exploits and devices to them?

Much the same.

Politics bends everything, including the economics of iOS attacks. But, these entities typically have exploits of their own already. At most, checkm8 will supply them with an alternative to what they already have, and one that can't be blown away by an iOS software update in the future. Though, again, only on older devices.

They'll still need their own exploits for more recent devices, and because checkm8 doesn't get around the secure element or passcode or Touch ID, they'd still need their own exploits for the rest of the chain as well.

The developer, speaking with Ars:

So, again, if based on your work or just who you are, you think you're potentially at higher risk from Checkm8 specifically, you can protect yourself by making sure you're on an A12 or A13 device.

So, do I need to worry about checkm8?

Checkm8 is an incredible piece of work. You only have to look at how long it's been since the iOS bootrom was last exploited to understand just how much axi0mX has really accomplished.

But, for right now, this is also so very inside baseball, and not something the average fan in the field is even going to see.

So, stay informed, absolutely. Follow those links in the description if you want to learn more about int, please.

But don't lose any sleep over it, or let anyone steal any of your time with attention bait.

One part of an iOS exploit chain has been made stable for a series of older devices.

Apple has to address that, and address how they're handling iOS security in general in an age where so many eyes and minds are on them.

It's already fixed in newer devices, but Apple has to figure out new and better ways to keep it from happening with current and future devices. It's been a decade since it's happened before but the goal should, and I'm kinda guessing is, forever until it happens again.

But that's all on Apple. For us, again again, anyone at all concerned by checkm8, if you haven't already, upgrade to an iPhone XR, XS, or 11, or a current or eventually later-generation iPad Pro.

And then checkm8 will be checked out of luck.

The iPhone 11 was only just released — and to rave reviews — but there's already buzz about what's coming in 2020. In addition to features like 5G support and an in-display fingerprint sensor, Apple's upcoming iPhone will supposedly feature a brand new design — and people are hyped.

According to a recent report, the 2020 iPhone could feature a design similar to the iPhone 4. In other words, the phone's metal frame will feature flat edges, rather than the rounded look that's been present in the iPhone for the last several years.

Based on early feedback on social media, a more modern iPhone 4 is just what the doctor ordered. One iPhone 11 owner joked that he was ready to throw his device in the trash if the rumor turns out to be true.

That sentiment appears to be shared by a lot of longtime Apple fans who have fond memories of the iPhone 4, which featured an exposed metal frame sandwiched by glass. Apple brought back a similar design when it introduced the iPad Pro in 2018.

https://twitter.com/lsutigerzfan/status/1176823529712640001

While the 2020 iPhone is rumored to feature a design similar to the iPhone 4, it's said to still feature curved glass. Combine that with the iPhone 11's stronger glass and matte look, and we should expect something more modern and sophisticated than even the iPad Pro.

https://twitter.com/HardcoreAndroid/status/1176841351553519616

Apple's current iPhone design has been around since 2017 when the iPhone X was first introduced. While the design still looks gorgeous, people are anxious to try something new.

Clearly, Apple fans are excited by the prospect of what's in Apple's (rumored) future.

You might recognize Lisa Bettany from her ridiculously great Instagram account, or her famous app, Camera+. Either way, she's done a lot to both show and help the state of the art of photography on iPhone. Her latest blog post, though, goes back in time to 2011 to show when iPhone 4s was state of the art — and what could be done with it.

From Mostly Lisa:

Lesson learned: Even if you have an older or hand-me-down iPhone you can still capture amazing photos and more — you can make art.

Check out all of Lisa's photos and then get out there and shoot some more of your own.

iPhone 4 and iPhone 4s are classics. If you're looking for a used iPhone, both of them will be among the least-expensive options available. They're similar in many ways, but if you're in the market, there are some important differences you'll need to consider before making your choice!

• Size
• Camera
• Battery life
• Processor and storage
• iOS compatibility
• Siri
• Carrier support

Size

Both phones are 4.5 inches tall, 2.3 inches wide, and 0.37 inches thick. The only size difference between them is that, technically, the iPhone 4 weighs in at 4.8 ounces, while the 4s comes in at a whopping 4.9 ounces.

Not a huge difference.

Camera

The iPhone 4 offers 4 megapixel still shots, while the iPhone 4s can do 8 megapixels. The iPhone 4 offers 720p video at 30 FPS while the the iPhone 4s was improved to 1080p at 30 FPS, which is significant.

If you care about camera quality, the iPhone 4s is the way to go.

Battery life

Both the iPhone 4 and iPhone 4s are capable of 10 hours of video playback, but the battery in the iPhone 4 can support 7 hours of talk time, while the iPhone 4s will give you up to 8. iPhone 4s also lasts longer on Wi-Fi surfing than iPhone 4—and hour longer.

Processor and storage

The iPhone 4 has a single core A4 processor, and is available in 16GB and 32GB. The iPhone 4s, with an improved dual-core A5 processor, offers a 64GB option.

iOS compatibility

In terms of keeping your phone updated, it's important to know that the iPhone 4 can only run iOS 5 or earlier. That means no more updates, no more security patches, and the potential that new apps won't work on its older hardware.

iPhone 4S, on the other hand, can run up to iOS 9, the latest version of Apple's operating system. It doesn't run it fully or anywhere nearly as well as newer iPhones, but you'll still get software updates, security patches, and apps that work.

If you don't regularly download games and apps, this won't be a concern, but if you do, you may need to look to newer versions of the iPhone to support your preferences.

Siri

Apple's personal virtual assistant, Siri, was introduced with the iPhone 4s. That means it isn't available for iPhone 4. In other words, if you want proper voice control, you'll need to go for iPhone 4s.

Carrier support

The original iPhone 4 only supported AT&T in the U.S. and GSM carriers globally. A Verizon-version compatible with CDMA networks was released just over half-a-year later, however. iPhone 4s had support for both AT&T and Verizon built-in from day one.

So, if you plan to use your iPhone 4 of iPhone 4s on AT&T or on an international network, you'll likely be fine with either. You'll be limited to 3G speeds, but you'll be online. If you plan to use your iPhone on Verizon, you'll need to make sure you're getting a Verizon iPhone 4 or an iPhone 4s specifically.

The bottom line

Both iPhone 4 and iPhone 4s are perfectly usable phones. They can handle your essential requirements, from calls and text messages, to internet searches, email notifications, and photos. If you're looking for a basic, entry level iPhone, they're okay options, especially the iPhone 4s.

Apple is no longer offering the iPhone 4s and iPhone 5c in India. While the phones are past their prime, Apple has a strong brand presence in India, leading to healthy sales of older iPhones. The iPhone 4s was selling for as low as ₹12,000 ($175), in direct competition to budget Android handsets from local vendors. The iPhone 5c, meanwhile, was available for ₹20,000 ($290).

The withdrawal of the iPhone 4s and 5c is mostly to increase the average selling price of iPhones in India, as Apple is pushing for more profits from the country. Although the company saw vastly increased sales, a bulk of the revenue was from sales of older, heavily discounted devices.

The iPhone 5s is now positioned as the most affordable iPhone in the country, with a retail price of ₹21,499 ($315).

Source: Economic Times

It's time to put away that mince pie and those bottles of mulled wine as we wait for 2016 to greet us all, but not everyone will be welcoming the new year with a working iPhone. That's according to a new complaint over how iOS 9 is reported to significantly impact the performance of the iPhone 4s. Unfortunately for those affected, they're unable to downgrade from iOS 9 due to Apple security.

More than 100 iPhone 4s owners have asserted that the update has led to a negative experience on their smartphone to the point where it's simply unusable for daily use. Delayed launch times for apps, slower response on the touchscreen, as well as sluggish performance overall plague said owners. Then you have the reported freezing and crashes. Not fun times for anyone.

It's claimed that Apple knows all too well about iOS 9 and how the update makes the iPhone 4s simply not fit for use by owners and forcing them to either endure aforementioned issues or fork out on an upgrade. Plaintiffs are now seeking more than $5 million in damages, with an option to treble. This isn't the first time Apple has been in trouble for planned obsolescence, with complaints in 2011 over poor performance, as well as 2013 for lack of storage after updating.

It should be noted that while Apple has been accused of intentionally slowing down older hardware with new updates, the company does insist that engineers on the performance team use old phones as their daily drivers. It has also been reported that the exact opposite is the case in some tests, where newer updates applied to older hardware actually improves performance.

Source: Apple Insider

Nothing about 2011 was normal for Apple. Tim Cook had introduced the Verizon iPhone 4 at the beginning of the year and Apple had finally shipped the white iPhone 4 by spring. But unlike previous years, WWDC 2011 came and went no mention a glimpse of a new iPhone. Steve Jobs went on medical leave again, and in August resigned as CEO. On October 4, 2011, Apple's new CEO, Tim Cook, senior vice president of worldwide product marketing, Phil Schiller, and other executives took the stage at a special media called "Let's Talk iPhone". There, they introduced the most amazing iPhone yet. The iPhone 4S.

Previously there had only been about a year between different iPhone models. They launched every June or July from 2007 to 2010. In 2011, however, that changed.

For many years the holiday quarter had been Apple's strongest, anchored by the phenomenal success of the iPod. Every September Apple would announce updates and every holiday season customers would buy them in droves. But the iPod had begun to be replaced by the iPhone—which Apple called the best iPod. In addition to providing more time to ready iCloud and Siri, moving the iPhone to September once again put Apple's biggest product in the company's biggest quarter.

16 months in the making

The iPhone 4S, codename N94 and device number iPhone4,1, like the iPhone 3GS before it, kept the same basic design as previous year's model. It was the beginning of a tick-tock pattern that lasts to this day. For the iPhone 4S, it meant the same 960x480 326ppi Retina display and IPS LED panel.

The iPhone 4S also kept the same composition as the iPhone 4, with two layers of chemically hardened glass sandwiched on either side of a stainless steel antenna band. The antenna band itself, however, was improved. It had the same configuration as the Verizon iPhone 4, but Apple split it into two components and enabled it to intelligent switch between transmit and receive to avoid attenuation and detuning both. Even while on a call. While CDMA EVDO Rev A data speeds had already been maxed out, Apple boosted the UMTS/HSPA speed to 14.4mbps. (Unlike AT&T, however, they initially refused to mislabel it as 4G.) The new Qualcomm RTR8605 chipset was dual-mode, however, so even the Verizon (and later Sprint) CDMA models could work on GSM internationally, making the iPhone 4S Apple's first "world phone".

Wi-Fi stayed the same at 802.11 b/g/n on 2.4Mhz, but aGPS was augmented by Russian GLONASS (Global Navigation Satellite System). While near field communications (NFC) was prototyped internally, it didn't make it into a shipping product. Instead Apple was making a big bet on the future of Bluetooth, quickly moving to Bluetooth 4.0 with support for both high-speed (HS) and low-engery (LE) modes.

The iPhone 4S processor got a significant boost as well — a version of the Apple A5 system-on-a-chip (SoC) that debuted with the iPad 2 earlier in the year. The A5 featured a dual-core Cortex A9 central processing unit with Imagination's dual-core PowerVR SGX 543MP2 graphics processing unit. Apple claimed a 2x general speed improvement and a 7x graphics improvement.

The new power enabled features like AirPlay mirroring, which let the iPhone project its interface to the Apple TV, and Siri, which replaced the previous Voice Control feature with a full-on virtual digital assistant feature powered by natural language, and a Pixar-like personality.

Siri was carefully positioned as beta at launch and with good reason. Originally an app on the App Store, Apple had acquired the company and team behind it in April of 2010. Since then they'd been working on integrating it into iOS. The debate as to whether or not to release Siri with the iPhone 4S was rumored to have lasted up until just before event day. It was a complicated piece of technology. Key parts of the voice system were licensed from Nuance, which put them out of Apple's direct control, and Apple historically had less expertise in services than they did in hardware and software. It also required an internet connection to perform its information lookup and sequential inference, and that connection was not yet solid. It all resulted in multiple points of pain for Apple and for customers, and would take almost a year to rectify.

An infrared sensor was added to enable Siri's raise to speak feature, but otherwise the sensors remained the same. Apple stuck with the same 512MB of RAM for the iPhone 4S, but did introduce a new 64GB storage option. The battery got a slight improvement as well, up to 1430mAh. It resulted in 8 hours of usable battery life for 3G talk, but a reduction in standby time.

The front FaceTime camera retained the same, paltry VGA sensor. The rear iSight camera, however, got a lot of attention. It was increased to 8 megapixels and 1080p. The backlit sensor was improved, the aperture brought to f2.4, and made wide angle to capture more of a scene. Apple also added a 5th piece of glass to the assembly to increase sharpness, and an infrared filter to improve colors. The bigger news was the ISP (image signal processor) in the Apple A5 processor. It took the images captured by the camera and provided facial recognition for more specific automatic focus, and post-processing for much better white-balanced, stabilized, photos and video. It did, however, seem to find macro focus more of a challenge.

Pricing stayed the same again as well, starting at $199 and $299 on-contract, with the new, larger capacity model sliding in right on top at $399.

The day after

Steve Jobs passed away on October 5, 2011.

That Tim Cook, Phil Schiller, and any of his friends and colleagues were able to make it through the iPhone 4s event at all is a testament to their professionalism and love for both man and the company.

Around the world, Apple Stores became impromptu memorials and Apple took time to both celebrate and morn the life and passing of their co-founder. But they also made sure the great artists at Apple would keep on shipping.

The cross-roads of technology

The iPhone 4S launched on October 14, 2011 in the U.S., Australia, Canada, the U.K, France, Germany, and Japan. It reached 70 countries and 100 carriers by the end of the year. On launch weekend, it sold 4 million units.

Phil Schiller, via Apple:

As usual, it was meant as the first iPhone for new customers, or an upgrade for iPhone 3GS customers coming off contract (albeit a few months late). Although there were some who felt the upgrade wasn't big enough or visible enough, reviews were generally excellent.

Andy Ihnatko for the Chicago Sun Times:

John Gruber on Daring Fireball:

Yours truly on iMore:

Samsunged

By 2011, HP was destroying webOS from within, Windows Phone was still struggling to find its place in the market, and BlackBerry was wasting their time with the ill-fated PlayBook project. Android, however, was exploding. For differentiation, some went with first generation LTE chips, though it shredded battery life, even when larger batteries (and the screens to go with them) were used to help fuel them. That would eventually lead to screen size itself as a differentiator.

Though the iPhone finally made it to Verizon in February of that year, all those years of exclusivity on AT&T had created tremendous opportunity for something that could be sold as "close enough to an iPhone" for people who really wanted an iPhone but just couldn't or wouldn't leave Verizon. That something was Samsung's Galaxy S line, which copied the iPhone look-and-feel down to icon design and colors, and out to USB cables.

In April of 2011, Apple sued for patent and trade-dress infringement.

Apple claimed Samsung deliberately copied the iPhone (and iPad) to benefit from the marketing and consumer confidence Apple had worked hard for years to attain. While Apple didn't sue Google directly over Android, sentiment at Apple was the same.

They'd been partners with Samsung in manufacturing and Google in services, and had taught both how to make modern, iPhone-class smartphones, and then watched in horror as both betrayed them and turned from partners into competitors.

Where Microsoft was content to settle for licensing fees from almost all Android manufacturers, Apple was not. By virtue of their patents, Microsoft wanted to make Android more expensive, Apple wanted to make it less attractive. Apple had spent years and a fortune creating what they considered to be an intuitive new way to interface with computers and while the result was obvious the work taken to achieve it was arduous. People on the project had given up their lives and time with their families to realize it. Creating the iPhone had cost them and seeing it copied so casually was infuriating.

Business was business, but Apple and Steve Jobs took it personally. They'd been there before, after all, with Microsoft, the Mac, and Windows. They'd lost the PC market, they felt, because of it.

Google claimed Apple would rather litigate than innovate. Unfortunately for Google, Apple was intent on doing both. Hypocritically for Google, their Motorola acquisition would come with plenty of lawsuits all its own, lawsuits Google didn't abandon, and lawsuits over standards-essential patents—those pledged under fair, reasonable, and non-descriminatory terms and necessary to access data networks for example—whose litigation resulted in anti-trust investigations due to their abusive nature.

Samsung likewise retaliated with standards-essential patents, with Apple arguing both companies wanted access to Apple's proprietary patents in exchange.

That Samsung slavishly copied Apple while ramping up their own product line is indisputable. Product after product bore unabashed, unmistakable similarity to Apple's. The question was whether or not the copying was illegal. If it was, Samsung would be on the line for billions of dollars in damages. If it wasn't, Samsung would have brilliantly jumpstarted their way to smartphone dominance on Apple's dime.

Tim Cook, who took over as Apple CEO following Steve Jobs' passing in October of 2011, initially held the line on the lawsuits.

At the same time, Samsung began to launch a massive marketing campaign, targeting Apple exactly where it hurt — in brand perception and general "coolness" factor. Their market share grew and grew.

Samsung eventually lost a $1 billion verdict to Apple in the U.S. but other lawsuits and counter-suits around the world have been abandoned. Apple and Samsung remain manufacturing partners and Apple and Google remain services partners, but their relationships have never been the same.

Five years later

Steve Jobs was gone, but his greatest product, Apple, remained. The iPhone 4S entered a market facing savvier and more relentless competition than ever before. Still, it established the iPhone as Apple's new holiday product, and it once again sold more than any iPhone before. It was a painful, combative, heartbreaking year for Apple, but they endured. And more than that, they had a plan...

• History of the original iPhone
• History of iPhone 3G
• History of iPhone 3GS
• History of iPhone 4
• History of iPhone 4s
• History of iPhone 5
• History of iPhone 5c
• History of iPhone 5s

Steve Jobs returned to the WWDC keynote stage on June 7, 2010. He'd introduced the iPad earlier in the year, and kicked things off with an update on how it, and the App Store had been doing (spoiler: Well!). Then he turned his attention to iPhone, and after recapping everything Apple had done to date, he began on what they were doing next. It had over 100 new features. It had an all-new design, an all-new camera, and an all new screen resolution. It was hot. It was the iPhone 4

4 times the pixels, face times the cameras

The iPhone 4, codenamed N90/N92 and device number iPhone3,1, for the first time, offered significant improvements to the display. Apple went with optical lamination and an in-plane switching (ISP) panel with light-emitting diode (LED) backlight. It made images look as if they were painted just beneath the glass, and greatly improved viewing angles. Moreover, instead of matching competing display sizes of the time, it leap-frogged over them. To boost pixel count yet maintain compatibility with existing apps, Apple doubled resolution both horizontally and vertically, but kept the physical size constant at 3.5-inches. That took it from a resolution of 480x320 to 960x640, and from a density of 163ppi to 326ppi. It was dense enough, Apple argued, that at normal viewing distance the pixels disappeared. They called it a Retina display.

It was part of a completely new design, something akin to Braun and Leica. Those were aesthetics Apple's senior vice president of design, Jony Ive, held in the highest of esteem. It was flat, chemically-hardened glass (aluminosilicate) front and back, with a stainless steel band that ran around the sides, and it was 24% thinner than the iPhone 3GS. It would come in black and white, though the former far sooner than the latter.

The cellular radio stayed pretty much the same, at least at first, though Apple did switch from mini to microSIM for the carrier card to save space. Bluetooth stayed the same as well. The Wi-Fi radio went to 802.11 g/b/n, though only on the 2.4Mhz band. The kicker wasn't the radios, however, it was this—the stainless steel band around the iPhone was the antenna. The top left contained Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, and aGPS, and the rest contained UMTS/HSPA. Steve Jobs said it had never been done before.

Again, we had a full model number increase, which meant a full processor increase. In the case it was the custom-designed system-on-a-chip—the Apple A4. It was still an ARM Cortex A8 processor, though clocked higher at 800Mhz, and the same PowerVR SGX535 graphics chip, but it would set the stage for some truly impressive silicon over the next few years.

Storage options stayed the same at 16GB and 32GB but RAM was increased to 512MB. Like every first generation Retina device, however, it was barely enough to support all those additional pixels. The battery jumped to 1420mAh, which meant that, even with Retina, Apple actually managed to increase useful battery life as well.

Dual mics were also added for noise cancelation and better noise quality. In addition to the previous accelerometer and compass, Apple added a 3-axis gyroscope to the iPhone 4, with pitch, roll, and yaw, as well as rotation around gravity. Working together they provided 6-axis motion detection. It was a huge leap forward when it came to precision control, especially for gaming.

Apple took the iPhone 4's rear camera to 5 megapixels and 720p video, but at the same 1.75 micro pixel size, and added a backside illuminated sensor (BSI) and LED flash. There was, however, one more thing.

For the first time, Apple also added a front camera, VGA resolution. While it was a boon to the profile pics and "selfies" that were growing in popularity, it also allowed Apple to launch FaceTime video calling.

Price once again stayed the same, $199 and $299 on contract.

The best iPhone ever. Again.

The iPhone 4 launched on June 15, 2010. It would hit 88 countries and 185 carriers by the end of the year. Apple also launched iOS 4 along with it. Despite an initial rollout of only 5 countries, and considerable supply constraint, Apple still sold 1.7 million that first weekend.

Steve Jobs said, via Apple:

AT&T let anyone within 6 months of their upgrade window qualify for full subsidy pricing, likely because they had an inkling what was coming, and even though the iPhone 4 provided far more hardware features than the iPhone 3GS, it was again aimed primarily at iPhone 3G owners and new customers, not the smaller niche of year-over-year upgrades.

Sascha Segan for PC Mag

Joshua Topolsky for Engadget:

Yours truly for iMore:

With the iPhone 4, Apple for the first time began pushing the hardware well past the software.

Leaps... and stumbles

As innovative and exciting as the 2010 was for Apple, it was also painful. On April 19, 2010, it was revealed that an iPhone 4 prototype had been separated from an Apple engineer at a Redwood City bar. That prototype eventually made its way online, resulting in Apple's biggest product leak ever. While other sites got photos, the site that got the phone was Gizmodo.

The fallout wouldn't just result in less of a surprise and cranky comments from Steve Jobs at WWDC and AllThingsD, it would result in a police investigation, and considerable repercussions for both Apple and Gizmodo.

The white version of the iPhone 4 also provided Apple with considerable challenges. Apple's engineering team had to prevent UV rays from yellowing it over time, and they had to prevent the opacity of the paint from interfering with the internal sensors. That took longer than they anticipated. Short term it meant the white iPhone 4 would not ship on time. On June 23, the following statement was released by Apple:

It would take until April 28, 2011 to hit the shelves. Phil Schiller, senior vice president of worldwide product marketing, via Apple:

Apple's new, external antenna design, for all it's strong points when in good signal area turned out to have a weak point when the signal was low. If you put your finger on the juncture at the bottom left, you could detune it and lessen reception by a couple of bars. If all you had were a couple of bars or less, you could kill reception completely.

It was absolutely a real, reproducible issue, and real people were absolutely affected, but since removing the finger or insulating the juncture with a case, returned the iPhone to normal working order, it wasn't a showstopper. That didn't matter, though. There was blood in the water.

Apple at first tried to show that any mobile phone, if enough surface area was covered, could suffer from signal strength attenuation. That was true but also beside the point. Any phone could be attenuated but far fewer could be detuned and the iPhone 4 was by far the most popular and high profile.

On July 2, an open letter was published by Apple:

It wasn't enough. On July 16, Apple held a press conference to address the ongoing issue and offered free bumpers to anyone suffering from the problem. Apple also granted an unprecedented look inside their multimillion dollar antenna design and testing center. They'd later redesign the antenna and reduce, and then eliminate the problem.

We wouldn't have to wait a full year for a completely new iPhone generation to get the redesigned antenna, however. We only had to wait some six months, at least for the announcement.

On January 10, 2011 Apple's then-COO Tim Cook took the stage at another, separate event and announced the iPhone would, at long last, come to Verizon.

It launched on February 10, and included a new antenna array that not only minimized detuning but supported CDMA and EVDO Rev A networking as well. EVDO Rev A was nowhere nearly as fast as GSM HSPA, nor could it handle simultaneous voice and data, but thanks to Verizon's network, it greatly increased the reach and customer experience in the U.S.

Combined with the white iPhone 4 shipping, it let Apple leave that year on a considerable high.

How to make a competing phone

Apple's competitors had learned a lot over the last few years. Some directly from having worked with Apple to manufacture phones and their components, like Samsung, and others who'd worked with Apple on software and services, like Google. Others had learned relatively little, like BlackBerry.

After letting Verizon dictate criteria for the failed BlackBerry Storm, RIM let AT&T dictate criteria for the BlackBerry Torch. It tried to both compete with full screen phones but also keep traditional keyboard customers happy. It's tough to argue the Torch ended up doing either well.

Samsung began the year well. They'd achieved a large level of success with their Galaxy S lineup by being the closet thing you could get to an iPhone on Verizon back before you could get an iPhone on Verizon. The iPhone 4 killed that strategy, however, so it was unclear where they'd go next.

Palm, for all their software elegance, wasn't able to get the carrier deals it needed. Because, unlike Microsoft, Google, Samsung, and Apple, it had no other businesses to help fund its phone aspirations, it also had trouble getting cutting edge hardware components to match its cutting edge experience.

Google, meanwhile, had Nexus One. It was launched in collaboration with HTC and timed it not only to hit Apple after its yearly hype cycle had ended, but hit the tech press just as CES excitement had begun. It was also unlike any other Android phone ever seen before—a look forward at what the next year would bring.

Competitive trash-talk had shifted, in part, from iPhone to iPad, but rival CEO's weren't entirely silent in 2010:

Jim Balsillie, of RIM (BlackBerry):

Eric Schmidt, former Apple board member but not yet former Google CEO, began his campaign to paint Apple as closed and Google as open:

Every company is closed when it comes to what makes them successful and open when it comes to what makes their competitors successful. Apple was open with browsers just like Google was closed when it came to search algorithms and ad exchanges. Since it was easier to see and feel end-point openness, however, Google succeeded in rallying many in the open source software community to their cause.

Google's Vic Gundotra beat the same drum at the company's annual I/O conference:

That similar hyperbole could be aimed at Google when it came to search didn't matter. By making it free to vendors and handing back ultimate control of the phone experience to carriers, Android's ascension had begun.

Four Years Later

The iPhone 3G was gone, the iPhone 3GS remained, and the iPhone 4 once again took Apple to greater numbers than ever before. Nothing, however, could prepare the world for what would happen next...

• History of the original iPhone
• History of iPhone 3G
• History of iPhone 3GS
• History of iPhone 4
• History of iPhone 4s
• History of iPhone 5
• History of iPhone 5c
• History of iPhone 5s

If you've got an iPhone 4s, iPhone 5, or iPhone 5s, it just got a little more valuable. Apple has raised the trade-in values for these three devices through their Reuse and Recycle program. Run in partnership with Brightstar, the program allows customers to trade in their old devices in exchange for an Apple gift card.

Customers trading in an iPhone 4s can now receive a gift card for up to $50, up from $35, and iPhone 5 owners who send in their device can get $100, formerly $85. The iPhone 5s is now worth $200 from the program, up from $175. Of course, to qualify for trade-in, your device needs to be in working order.

Customers will receive their gift card once their device has been inspected.

Source: Apple, via: 9to5Mac

When new iPhones are introduced one of the toughest decisions to make is whether or not to upgrade to the latest and the greatest. If money is no object, it won't matter. If you're due an upgrade on contract, it comes down to whether or not the new features in the iPhone 6 or iPhone 6 Plus are compelling enough to be worth $200 or $300 or more to you. If you're not due an upgrade, or if you don't buy on contract, then that decision escalates to $650, $750, or more. So what are the pros and cons of upgrading to the iPhone 6 or iPhone 6 Plus, and when does the cost get overwhelmed by the value? Let's take a look...

iOS 8 compatibility

The ability to run iOS 8, and to be compatible with iOS 8 apps, is a major consideration. The iPhone 4 won't be able to do either. The iPhone 4s will be, but in limited and likely not entirely enjoyable form. The iPhone 5 and iPhone 5c will be good. The iPhone 5s will be darn good.

If you have anything less than an iPhone 5, you're going to want to upgrade. If you have anything less than an iPhone 5s, you're going to want to think about it.

Screen size

The iPhone 5, iPhone 5c, and iPhone 5s all have smaller, 4-inch screens. So even though they can run iOS 8, it'll be at 1136x640 pixel form.

The iPhone 6 has a 4.7-inch screen with 1336x750 pixels, and the iPhone 6 Plus has a 5.5-inch screen with a 1920x1080 inch screen.

That means you won't be getting the best experience from new apps going forward, and with the iPhone 6 Plus, the ability to run Apple's apps in iPad-style (two column layout) in landscape mode. You'll also get Display Zoom which, if you'd rather not have more pixels but bigger ones, can help you read and see everything better.

If you like 4-inch or even 3.5-inch iPhones and aren't sure that bigger really is better, wait and try them in stores first.

If screen size matters to you, especially if the ability to run iPad-style apps on an iPhone in landscape is interesting to you, you may want to upgrade.

LTE and Wi-Fi

The iPhone 4s tops out at HSPA 14.4mbps and can't access the much faster DC-HSPA+ 40mbps or LTE 100+mbps networks. That means you'll be stuck on dial up in an increasingly broadband world.

The iPhone 5 supports LTE, and the iPhone 5c and iPhone 5s support an incredible range of LTE bands, but they all top out at 100mbps. They're also limited to 802.11n Wi-Fi.

The iPhone 6 and iPhone 6 Plus support LTE Advanced and can go all the way to 150mbps. They also support 802.11ac Wi-Fi, matching Apple's latest generation AirPort Extreme base stations.

If you're in an area with LTE Advanced and/or if you have an 802.11ac router, moving data faster lets radios power down faster and ultimately saves battery life. You may want to upgrade for both.

Camera

The iPhone 4S has a fairly decent 8mp/1080p rear iSight cameras but still a poor front FaceTime camera. The iPhone 5 and iPhone 5c have slightly better iSight cameras and the iPhone 5c has a better FaceTime camera as well with backside illumination. The iPhone 5s has the same better FaceTime camera and an even better iSight camera with support for burst mode and 120fps slow motion video.

The iPhone 6 and iPhone 6 Plus, however, have better cameras still. Most of the differences are subtle and, unless you're a camera enthusiast or take relentless selfies or slow-mos, not really worth an upgrade from the iPhone 5, iPhone 5c, or iPhone 5s.

However, the iPhone 6 Plus has optical image stabilization (OIS) which makes it much better for low-light photography.

Taken together if your iPhone serves primarily as your camera, you might want to upgrade, especially to the iPhone 6 plus.

Lightning connector

The iPhone 4S has the old 30-pin Dock connector. While there remain legacy accessories for that connector, all new iOS devices now use the Lightning connector. The iPhone 5, iPhone 5c, and iPhone 5s all already have Lightning connectors.

If you have an iPhone 4s, Lightning is just one of many, many reasons you might want to upgrade.

Touch ID

With the exception of the iPhone 5s, none of the older iPhone models can use Apple's Touch ID fingerprint identity sensor.

That means, if you want to be able to unlock your iPhone or authorize iTunes purchases at the touch of the finger, you'll want to upgrade.

Apple Pay

Apple Pay stores your credit card information on a secure element inside the iPhone 6 and iPhone 6 Plus. With it, you can tap-to-pay at NFC terminals in stores, or shop online using apps from Apple, target, and more.

It's like a digital wallet, authorized by passcode or Touch ID, and it's not available on any older iPhone models. So, if you want it, you'll want to upgrade.

Should you upgrade from the iPhone 4 (or earlier)?

The iPhone 4 was released in June of 2010 but was still available at $0 on contract until September of 2013 (and is still available even now in China and India). If you're not on contract, or are eligible for an upgrade for any reason, you should definitely take it.

If price is the most important factor, the $0 on-contract position has been taken over by the iPhone 5c. It gives you not only a 4-inch screen but the much more powerful Apple A6 processor, the new Lightning connector, and fast LTE cellular networking. It comes in bright plastic colors. Whether it will get iOS 9 next year, however, remains unknown, so in addition to missing out on the even bigger screens, it may not be a great long term investment.

Starting at $100 on contract, the iPhone 5s will give you an even better Apple A7 processor with M7 motion coprocessor, a better iSight camera, and the Touch ID fingerprint authentication system. No bigger screen, but a lot of everything else, and it will likely get iOS 9 next year.

Starting at $200 or $300 on contract, however, if you can afford an iPhone 6 or iPhone 6 Plus, however, they'll give you everything modern iPhones and iOS 8 have to offer, and will serve you well for years to come.

Yes, you should strongly consider upgrading.

Should you upgrade from the iPhone 4S?

The iPhone 4S was introduced in October of 2011 and was available for $0 on contract until this year. If you got one anytime in the last year, you're still on contract. Early termination fees (ETFs) could make it financial unattractive to upgrade.

If you're not on contract, or are eligible for an upgrade for any reason, you should consider it. The iPhone 5c is now $0 on contract, gives you not only the new, bigger, 4-inch screen, and also the Lightning connector, the much more powerful Apple A6 processor, and fast LTE cellular networking. It comes in bright plastic colors. Whether it will get iOS 9 next year, however, remains unknown, so in addition to missing out on the even bigger screens, it may not be a great long term investment.

Starting at $100 on contract, the iPhone 5s will give you an even better Apple A7 processor with M7 motion coprocessor, a better iSight camera, and the Touch ID fingerprint authentication system. No bigger screen, but a lot of everything else, and it will likely get iOS 9 next year.

Starting at $200 or $300 on contract, however, if you can afford an iPhone 6 or iPhone 6 Plus, however, they'll give you everything modern iPhones and iOS 8 have to offer, and will serve you well for years to come.

Yes, you should strongly consider upgrading.

Should you upgrade from the iPhone 5?

The iPhone 5 was introduced in September of 2012 but was discontinued in September of 2013.

If you're not on contract, or are eligible for an upgrade for any reason, there are a few reasons to consider upgrading. The iPhone 5s will give you a better Apple A7 processor with M7 motion coprocessor, a better iSight camera, and the Touch ID fingerprint authentication system. However, it's not a major leap up from the iPhone 5 and it's also $100 on contract.

Starting at $200 or $300 on contract, however, if you can afford an iPhone 6 or iPhone 6 Plus, however, they'll give you everything modern iPhones and iOS 8 have to offer, and will serve you well for years to come. You'll get a bigger 4.7- or 5.5-inch screen, NFC radio for Apple Pay payments, fast LTE Advanced and 802.11ac networking, better iSight and FaceTime cameras, optical image stabilization with the iPhone 6 Plus, and be future-proofed for a least a couple years to come.

If you've had an iPhone 5 since launch, take a look at the iPhone 6 or iPhone 6 Plus. Both are really good upgrades.

Yes, you should consider upgrading.

Should you upgrade from the iPhone 5c?

The iPhone 5c is essentially the same phone as the iPhone 5 with a new, fun, plastic coating. If you got one in the last year, you're likely still on contract. Early termination fees (ETFs) could make it financial unattractive to upgrade.

If you're not on contract, or are eligible for an upgrade for any reason, there are severals reasons to consider upgrading. The iPhone 5s will give you a better Apple A7 processor with M7 motion coprocessor, a better iSight camera, and the Touch ID fingerprint authentication system. However, it's not a major leap up from the iPhone 5c and it's also $100 on contract.

Starting at $200 or $300 on contract, however, if you can afford an iPhone 6 or iPhone 6 Plus, however, they'll give you everything modern iPhones and iOS 8 have to offer, and will serve you well for years to come. You'll get a bigger 4.7- or 5.5-inch screen, NFC radio for Apple Pay payments, fast LTE Advanced and 802.11ac networking, better iSight and FaceTime cameras, optical image stabilization with the iPhone 6 Plus, and be future-proofed for a least a couple years to come.

However, if you got an iPhone 5c last year, well you didn't opt for the more forward-thinking iPhone 5s then and you may be perfectly happy not to opt for the even more forward-thinking iPhone 6 models this year.

Upgrade only if you want to move from fun to forward thinking.

Should you upgrade from the iPhone 5s?

The iPhone 5s was released in September 2013, so it's still relatively new, and if you got it under a traditional 2-year contract you'll have early termination fees to worry about. If you got it under a newer, more flexible upgrade contract, however, then you have more options.

Starting at $200 or $300 on contract, the iPhone 6 or iPhone 6 Plus will give you everything modern iPhones and iOS 8 have to offer, and will serve you well for years to come. You'll get a bigger 4.7- or 5.5-inch screen, NFC radio for Apple Pay payments, fast LTE Advanced and 802.11ac networking, better iSight and FaceTime cameras, optical image stabilization and two-column apps in landscape with the iPhone 6 Plus, and be future-proofed for a least a couple years to come.

The iPhone 5s is an excellent phone and there's no need to rush out and upgrade. However, if you got the iPhone 5s because you wanted the cutting edge of technology, that edge is now cutting with the iPhone 6 and iPhone 6 Plus.

Upgrade only if you simply must have the latest and greatest.

Still undecided?

If you're still not sure about about upgrading to an iPhone 6 or iPhone 6 Plus , ask questions below or jump into our iPhone discussion forums and the best community in mobile will happily help you out!

Then, once you know, let me know why — or why not —in the comments so everyone else can benefit from your thoughts!

As we head towards WWDC 2014 we thought it would be fun to look back at Apple World Wide Developer Conferences past, what they introduced, and what impact they made. Today let's take a look at WWDC 2010, the first post-iPad WWDC, and the last WWDC to feature the introduction of an iPhone...

Apple's dominance as a mobile developer was on display in 2010. While in previous years WWDC tickets were available for weeks or even months prior to the date (with early bird discounts available, too), WWDC 2010 sold out in eight days — and every ticket was full price.

The iPad made its debut in April of that year; by late May, Apple announced it had already sold 2 million of them (it'd pass the 3 million mark a couple of weeks after WWDC wrapped up).

So iOS was becoming the focus of Apple's efforts, and iOS was definitely the centerpiece of that year's show. iPhone OS 4 had already been previewed earlier that year, offered as a beta to registered developers. App Store apps gained multitasking, folders were added to help make app organization easier. iBooks were introduced, along with Game Center and Apple's iAd service. FaceTime debuted with that release, and more - more than 100 new features in all, with 1,500 new APIs for developers.

With the introduction of the iPad, however, "iPhone OS" wasn't an accurate branding, so Steve Jobs announced at WWDC that henceforth the operating system would be known as "iOS" instead.

WWDC 2010 saw the introduction of the iPhone 4. Apple's previous iPhone models all looked similar, but the iPhone 4 featured a more flat-backed design made of stainless steel and glass, a stunning 9.3 millimeters thin. The iPhone 4 was the first iPhone (and the first Apple device) to be equipped with a Retina display — the first Apple device to sport such a high-resolution screen. Inside the iPhone 4 was an A4 processor, 5 megapixel camera with LED flash and improved battery capacity with 40 percent longer talk time.

Apple also introduced Safari 5, with big performance increases, the ability to choose different search engines besides Google and support for Safari Extensions, which enabled developers to add new capabilities to the popular web browsing tool.

Apple CEO Steve Jobs, who was absent from WWDC 2009 during an extended medical leave that saw him receive a liver transplant, was back for 2010.

Give it a watch and let me know — what do you think of WWDC 2008 and what, if anything, does it make you hope for at WWDC 2014?

While 'iPhone' often sounds like one, iconic thing, Apple has fielded many different models, and an incredible array of variants over the years. This year there's the state-of-the-art iPhone 5s, the pop-art iPhone 5c, and the held-over iPhone 4s. Sure, 5 sounds higher than 4, but what's the real difference between all these models? Does more money really get you more features, does saving up-front cost you in the long run, and how much phone do you really need? If you're looking to get your first iPhone, or looking to get one for family or friends, figuring it all out can be confusing. Here's what you need to know!

• Read the complete iPhone 5s review
• Read the complete iPhone 5c review
• Read the complete iPhone 4s review

Products and price points

Apple's 2013 iPhone lineup consists of 3 different models, the iPhone 5s, iPhone 5c, and iPhone 4s. Here are the models and price points, both on and off contract.

• $0/$450 - iPhone 4s 8GB
• $99/$549 - iPhone 5c 16GB
• $199/$649 - iPhone 5c 32GB
• $199/$649 - iPhone 5s 16GB
• $299/$749 - iPhone 5s 32GB
• $399/$849 - iPhone 5s 64GB

Yes, the 32GB iPhone 5c is the same price as the 16GB iPhone 5s. One has more storage, the other higher specs. Price, it turns out, isn't the only factor!

Storage

You can get and iPhone 5s with 16GB, 32GB, or 64GB of storage. It's the only iPhone that currently offers a 64GB option so if you need the most space, this is the one to get.

You can get an iPhone 5c with 16GB or 32GB of storage. So, if you don't need an extreme amount of storage, you can get a 32GB iPhone 5c for the same price as a 16GB iPhone 5s.

You can get an iPhone 4s with 8GB of storage. Frankly, we can't recommend this amount of storage for anyone. If you plan on downloading any amount of apps or media, it'll just end in frustration.

Colors

The iPhone 5s comes with two difference choices of faceplates and three metallic finishes, including white and gold, white and silver, and black and space gray. Verging on jewelry, they all look very high-end, and very premium.

The iPhone 5c comes in five combinations of black faceplates and bright, candy-colored plastic shells, including yellow, pink (salmon), green, blue, and white. Like pop-art, they're fun and coordinate incredibly well with the wallpaper and background on the software.

The iPhone 4s comes in either white or black. Single-toned, unlike the newer iPhones, they're also glass front and back which means there''s no safe side to drop them on.

Displays

The iPhone 5s and iPhone 5c have gorgeous, widescreen 4-inch displays at 1136x640 that makes it look like apps, images, and videos are painted inside the glass. They also have excellent viewing angles. These are both bigger and better.

The iPhone 4s has a great looking 3.5 inch display at 960x640 with an excellent viewing angle. These days it almost looks a little cramped.

Size and weight

The iPhone 5s is the thinnest and lightest iPhone. It's so thin and light, it almost feels like they forgot to put anything inside it. It's 4.87 inches (123.8 mm) x 2.31 inches (58.6 mm) x 0.30 inch (7.6 mm) and weighs in at 3.95 ounces (112 grams). If you want something that disappears into your pocket, this is it.

The iPhone 5c is slightly thicker and heavier, thanks to its bigger plastic shell. It's 4.90 inches (124.4 mm), 2.33 inches (59.2 mm) x 0.35 inch (8.97 mm) and weighs 4.65 ounces (132 grams). While bulkier, it is by no means bulky.

The iPhone 4s is the squattest and heaviest of the iPhones, thanks to its shorter screen and thicker body. It's 4.5 inches (115.2 mm) x 2.31 inches (58.6 mm) x 0.37 inch (9.3 mm) and weighs 4.9 ounces (140 grams). Compared to newer iPhones, this one feels weighty in the hand.

Power

The iPhone 5s is powered by the 2013 Apple A7 chipset and Apple M7 motion coprocessor. It's the same 64-bit, Open GL ES 3.0 chip that's inside the latest iPads, and the most powerful processor ever put into a phone. (It could just as easily drive a netbook. Which is insane.)

The iPhone 5c is powered by the 2012 Apple A6 chipset. It has no coprocessors but is still capable of good performance.

The iPhone 4s is powered by the 2012 Apple A5 chipset. It's still capable of driving the phone, but it's nowhere nearly as future proof as current chipsets.

Sensors

The iPhone 5s is the only iPhone with Touch ID, a fingerprint identity sensor that lets you unlock and purchase apps with the touch of a finger. It also includes a three-axis gyroscope, accelerometer, proximity sensor, ambient light sensor.

The iPhone 5c and iPhone 4s include three-axis gyroscopes, accelerometers, proximity sensors, and ambient light sensors.

Carriers and LTE

The iPhone 5s supports the most LTE bands of any single phone in history. You can get it GSM unlocked, which means you should be able to use it pretty much anywhere and everywhere.

The iPhone 5c has the same great LTE and carrier support as the iPhone 5s. You can likewise get it unlocked and use it just about anywhere.

The iPhone 4s has 3G carrier support. You can also get it unlocked and use it in most places. Because CDMA 3G (Verizon and Sprint) is much, much slower than GSM 3G (AT&T, T-Mobile), iPhone 4s performance can vary greatly between those networks.

Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, and location

The iPhone 5s and iPhone 5c support up to 802.11n Wi-Fi on both 2.4 and 5GHz. They also both support Bluetooth 4.0 as well as GPS and GLONASS.

The iPhone 4s supports up to 802.11n on 2.4GHz only. It also supports Bluetooth 4.0 as well as GPS and GLONASS.

iSight rear-facing cameras

iPhone 5s, iPhone 5c, and iPhone 4s all have iSight cameras with 8 megapixel stills and 30fps 1080p video, backside illuminated sensors with 5-elements, hybrid infrared filters, geotagging, face detection, auto- and tap-to-focus, auto stabilization, and panorama modes.

The iPhone 5c has an f/2.2 aperture and dual true-tone flash. The iPhone 5c and iPhone 4s both have f/2.4 apertures and single LED flashes.

The iPhone 5s and iPhone 5c both have sapphire crystal lens covers, 3x digital video zoom, and the ability to take still photos while shooting video.

The iPhone 5s can also record 120fps slow-motion video. It's one of the best camera phones on the market, and the absolute best camera on a 4-inch or under phone.

FaceTime front-facing cameras

The iPhone 5s and iPhone 5c both have 1.2 megapixel, 720p FaceTime HD video cameras with backside illuminated sensors.

The iPhone 4s has a VGA (480p) camera.

Battery life

The iPhone 5s and iPhone 5c both support up to 10 hours of 3G talk time, LTE or Wi-Fi web browsing, or video playback, up to 40 hours of audio playback, and up to 250 hours of standby. Depending on how much or how hard you use them, both will last you the day.

The iPhone 4s supports up to 8 hours of 3G talk time, up to 6 hours of 3G or 9 hours of Wi-Fi web browsing, up to 10 hours of video playback, up to 40 hours of audio playback, and up to 200 hours of standby.

Connectors

Both the iPhone 5s and iPhone 5c use the new, intelligent Lightning connector. That means they'll work with all the latest accessories and peripherals, now and into the future.

The iPhone 4s uses the old 30-pin Dock connector. That means it'll work with older accessories, but not new ones.

Software and services

The iPhone 5s, iPhone 5c, and iPhone 4s all run iOS 7 and connect to iCloud. That means you can run all the latest software from the [App Store](http://www.imore.com/app-store - over 1 million apps and growing - as well as manage all your email, calendars, contacts, backup your data, and more.

Bottom Line

The iPhone 5s is something from the future. It includes the Touch ID sensor, one of the best cameras ever to grace a phone, and the highest storage option. If you want state-of-the-art, you want the iPhone 5s.

The iPhone 5c is all about today. It's less expensive but arguably even more fun. If you want pop-art, you want the iPhone 5c.

The iPhone 4s is the past. It has an old screen resolution, supports only older 3G cellular connections, and while the camera is still good, the 8GB of storage is almost maddening. If you want an iPhone in name only, you might be able to make do with an iPhone 4s.

With the release of the iPhone 5, iPhone 5s and finally, the iPhone 5c there's always that 'I must upgrade to the latest' feeling out there but there's still plenty of folks wondering if the iPhone 4S is still a good device to purchase, given that carriers that still offer them are giving them away and resale sites like Craigslist, Kijiji and others have plenty of them for sale.

At this point, I still think the iPhone 4S is a perfect device for anyone looking to get into the Apple ecosystem for minimal cost as, they do indeed make a great 'iOS starter device' and many folks in the iMore Forums tend to agree with that as well. That being said, it is getting to be a little dated and if you're comparing devices, the age will show.

If long term support is a concern though, your best bet may be to go with an iPhone 5c as that device will almost inevitably have longer life support than the iPhone 4S but cost is also a factor there as well with the iPhone 5c selling for generally $99 (or less) and of course, that's with a contract.

Overall, aside from a small amount of individuals who say they have issues with running iOS 7 on the iPhone 4S, the general consensus appears to be that it's still a worthwhile purchase. It's just when you start talking about the next iteration of iOS that becomes a little wishy washy as maybe not all features will be supported, if at all, once it arrives.

What do you all think though? Is the iPhone 4S still something you can wholeheartedly reccomend to someone looking to get into the Apple ecosystem or looking for a genuinely 'cheap' iPhone? Have your say in the iMore Forums or in the comments.

• Is the iPhone 4S still a good phone?

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It's my understanding Apple's been considering the release of a less expensive iPhone 5c-type product since at least 2009/2010, but the economics and conditions back then made them go with - and stick with - the older-model-at-reduced-price model instead. Rumors are building that this year might be the year they change strategies and flip that particular product switch. So why now? The simplest answer would seem to be that the economics and conditions have changed. Like I said back in January, for Apple, less expensive doesn't mean cheap. However, less expensive can mean a larger, more unified addressable market. John Gruber on Daring Fireball caught an important part I missed:

One of the other differences between then and now - in addition to emerging markets, more price-sensitive first-time smartphone buyers, downward pressure on the iPhone ASP due to the previous strategy, and perhaps a desire to unify the platform faster around 4-inch screens and Lightning ports - is the continued decline of the iPod lineup.

The iPhone originally succeeded because it was a better experience than all the smartphones that came before, and a variety of customer types were willing to pay for it. And now they have. And now Apple, like everyone else, is chasing the next billion first-time smartphone adopters, and just like with the iPods nano and shuffle, the Mac Mini, and the iPad mini, the lower the cost of entry, the more of that market Apple can on-board, immerse in their ecosystem, and potentially retain and expand upon going forward.

The iPod touch used to be the cheapest gateway to iOS and the App Store. As that fades, the iPad mini, and something like an iPhone 5c need to take its place. (Apple has historically been very good at having "what's next" ready to climb as "what was" becomes to decline.)

Ben Bajarin explains it much more succinctly than I ever could over on Tech.pinions:

So what makes 2013 a better year to release a less expensive iPhone 5c than 2010 was to release a less expensive iPhone 4C? The type of product Apple can produce to fit that slot is likely far better, and far more in keeping with their standards, than anything they could have produced in 2010. (i.e., the iPhone 3GS was better than an iPhone 4C could have been), their older product line continues to decline and new ones can now take its place (i.e. iPad mini and iPhone 5c could do the job better now than iPod touch), and the type of customer Apple was targeting back then is likely different than the ones that comprise the biggest opportunity today (i.e. less expensive on contract vs. less expensive overall).

The economics and conditions have changed, and, if the iPhone 5c rumors prove true, Apple has, as usual, changed to address them. It's not a reaction, it's a plan. After all, that relentless fearlessness in face of the future has, historically, been one of Apple's greatest strengths.

Note: I conflated part of this into yesterday's difference between iOS and Android developers piece but I thought the specifics of addressable market deserved it's own thing.

Earlier this year the International Trade Commission (ITC) issued a ban on the import of the iPhone 4 and cell-equipped iPad 2 models after ruling that the devices violated a patent held by Samsung. The Obama administration has overruled that decision at the eleventh hour, allowing the Apple devices to continue to be imported. U.S. Trade Representative Michael Froman, issued his ruling on Saturday, citing the best interest of consumers as his rationale for overturning the ban.

Froman went on to say that his decision isn't an endorsement or criticism of the ITC, and that his decision to disapprove the ban doesn't mean Samsung isn't entitled to a remedy - just not this particular one, which they've been asking for since 2011.

One of the key issues sparking the veto seems to have been the FRAND-nature (fair, reasonable, and non-discriminatory) nature of the Samsung patents at issue. These types of patents are often pooled to allow standards to be implemented, and as a result are supposed to be licensed equally so everyone can support the standard. Recently, however, companies like Motorola and Samsung have been using - some would say abusing - FRAND patents as a way to counter-sue against proprietary patents. In the EU, FRAND-patent abuse has resulted in investigations. Here, it's resulted in a veto.

Better luck next time, Samsung.

Update: Apple provided the following comment to AllThingsD:

Samsung, predictably, is not happy with the ruling. In the same article, AllThingsD quotes them as saying:

Source: Office of US Trade Representative

In announcing the March quarter's fiscal results, Apple revealed that profits dropped from the year prior. While there are many issues that factor into that, one of the greatest is the iPhone 4. Average selling price for iPhones dropped $23 from the year quarter. Why is that? It's because Apple is getting aggressive with the iPhone 4 in developing markets.

CEO Tim Cook and CFO Peter Oppenheimer repeatedly pointed to sales in new markets as part of the reason for the decline in profits. As in half a dozen times; clearly they intended to hammer home that Apple is investing in getting customers onboard the Apple bandwagon in new markets. Oppenheimer said that over the last quarter Apple has aggressively discounted the iPhone 4 in these developing markets. He said that they've seen incredible interest in the iPhone 4 in these markets.

Cook said that Apple has made the iPhone 4 even more affordable to make it more attractive to new buyers. While that might disappoint investors who always want more profit and more profit, Cook was optimistic, saying "we believe that the phone for the price point that we're offering is an incredible value for people" in these markets.

Apple's long been perceived as a premium product, with customers willing to pay supposed premium prices to own Apple products. But as with almost every Apple product, they'r expensive at launch and eventually drop in price as older models are phased out, manufacturing processes are refined, and scale is achieved. The original iPhone was $600, now you can buy a brand-new iPhone 5 on-contract for under $200. The first full-size iPad was $500. Now you can get an iPad Mini for $329, or an iPad 2 for $399.

By keeping the older iPhone 4 around, Apple's enabling economies of scale and manufacturing efficiencies from years of development and sales. The older components in the iPhone 4 cost less, and while Apple might be taking a hit on the profits in doing so, they can sell the iPhone 4 for less in developing markets. The goal is to lock in new customers now while modern smartphones are just beginning to proliferate in these developing markets. Said Oppenheimer: "We're willing to make short-term trade-offs in profits for long-term growth."

If the headphone jack, mute switch, or volume buttons are causing you problems on your Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4, a DIY repair can most likely get you back in working order again for a lot less than the cost of a new iPhone. As it happens, one component controls all of these functions so regardless which is misbehaving, this one guide should get you all fixed up again.

This particular repair isn't the easiest in the world but will definitely be doable for the intermediate to advanced DIY ninja. If that sounds like you, follow along...

Disclaimer: As with any repair, iMore cannot be held responsible for any damage you may do to your device. It's also worth considering that opening up your device to perform any repair or modification can and will void your Apple warranty. If you don't feel comfortable opening your device, don't. Use extreme care and caution when performing a repair on any device.

What you need for a DIY headphone jack repair in a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4

iMore recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like iFixYouri. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• CDMA iPhone 4 (Verizon or Sprint for most folks)
• Replacement headphone jack and volume button component
• #00 Phillips screwdriver
• Flat blade screwdriver
• Spudger tool
• Security screwdriver

Power off your iPhone 4

Before performing any repair, always power off your device before removing any screws or parts.

Remove the back

2. First remove the bottom 2 dock connector screws in your iPhone 4. Use your five point security screwdriver for this as all versions of the CDMA iPhone 4 have security screws in the dock connector.

3. To remove the back simply slide the back upwards and lift it off gently.
4. Set the back and 2 dock connector screws aside.

Organize your screws

It's very important to make sure you remember where you are pulling screws from, so place them in an arrangement that you'll understand and remember. I normally lay them out the same way every time I disassemble a device so I remember where they came from and how they go back in. They're all different sizes so trying to figure out where they go if you get them mixed up isn't an easy task.

Remove the battery

2. To remove the battery you'll need to remove the #00 screw holding the battery clip in place. Remove this screw located to the bottom left of the battery.

3. The metal clip on the battery is what clips the battery to the logic board. You'll need to pop this clip up with your plastic pry tool. Simply stick the end of your pry tool underneath the clip and gently pull upwards until it unfastens from the logic board.

4. To remove the battery, I do not recommend using the plastic pull tab. There is quite a bit of adhesive underneath the battery and the tab will normally just rip off or you can bend the battery. Instead, run your pry tool along the right side of the battery and break the adhesive that way. Once the battery is free from the adhesive, you can pull the battery out of the phone. There are no other connectors holding it in.

5. I typically fold the plastic tab over while working on the iPhone 4 to keep it out of the way while I'm disassembling parts. It's not necessary but convenient.

Remove the grounding clip

To the left of where you disconnected the battery you'll see another screw holding in a grounding clip over the antenna. We'll need to remove it.

2. Unscrew the one screw holding the grounding clip in place with your #00 Phillips screwdriver.

3. Gently lift the grounding clip out of the device. It's very tiny as you can see above. Take care not to misplace it or lose it.

Remove the dock connector shield and disconnect the cable

2. There is a shield held on with two screws covering the dock connector cable. Remove the two screws holding it in place and set the shield and screws aside, remembering where they came from. (They are labeled as screw 1 & 2 in the photo above.)

3. Next, use your pry tool to pry up the actual dock connector cable. Be careful as there is adhesive holding the cable in place as well. Peel back the adhesive gently to free the cable.

Unclip the antenna from the logic board

Underneath where you removed the grounding clip, you'll see a tiny circular cable. This is your antenna cable. You'll need to unclip it from the logic board.

1. Take the edge of your pry tool or spudger and gently pry up the circular head to detach it from the logic board.

2. You'll notice the cable is wound around some metal brackets. Just gently guide it out of the brackets with your pry tool and finger. It's attached to the speaker assembly. Once you've finished unwinding it from the brackets, you can leave it where it is for now.

Remove the top logic board shield

2. There are 5 screws holding the logic board shield in place as labeled in the photo above. Remove the 5 screws holding it in place plus screw number 6 off to the right (we'll get to this one in a second). Just be sure to remember which holes they came out of as the screws are different sizes. I keep them arranged in the shape they came out of the logic board with the shield next to it. I find this to be the easiest way to keep them in order.

3. Next you'll need to remove the shield. There is a tiny clip built into the shield holding it in place. (Refer to the photo above.) Grab the shield by the top where the top screw came out and gently lift up and push down. The bottom notch will come out and you should be able to gently lift the shield out of the device.

Remove wifi antenna grounding clip

2. The number 6 screw we removed previously we're now returning to. There is a clip underneath it. Gently use your pry tool to remove it.

3. You'll find a cross head screw underneath it. We'll get back to that in just a minute.

Disconnect 7 cables from the logic board

2. Pop up all the cables labeled in the pictures above by gently lifting them with your pry tool or spudger..

3. Next gently lift the camera out of the device. You'll notice there is a tiny tab that is seated underneath the LCD and digitizer cables to the right.

4. Play close attention to the direction in which the cables pop up. The cable furthest to the right will pop up in the opposite direction of the others.

Remove the logic board

2. There are 5 screws you'll need to remove in order to remove the logic board. Three need to be removed with a flat blade screwdriver (flathead) while the other two will be removed with your #00 Phillips screwdriver.
3. Remove the screws numbered 1-3 in the image above using your flat blade screw driver. Make sure you remember which ones go where as the heads are a bit different.
4. Now remove screws 4 and 5 with your #00 screwdriver. Notice that the screw labeled number 5 will have a tiny gold grounding clip for the camera underneath it. Make sure you don't lose this and save it for re-assembly.

5. You should now be able to remove your logic board. Holding it at the bottom, gently pull it upwards. I use my other hand to lift up at the top where the rear facing camera used to be.

6. Take note that there is a small rubber piece that sits at the top of the logic board. You will need this for re-assembly so make sure it doesn't fall off. If you lose this, you could experience wifi or reception issues.

Remove the metal retainer & front facing camera

There is a metal retainer covering the front facing camera. To remove it use your pry tool to gently pull it off. Make sure you don't lose it as you'll need it for reassembly. Now that the metal retainer has been removed you can gently lift the front facing camera out of the iPhone 4.

Remove the upper antenna

1. Use your pry tool to carefully peel back the upper antenna off the headphone jack assembly. We don't want to completely remove it yet so take care not to rip it.

2. Remove the single screw to the right of the headphone jack using your #00 Phillips screwdriver.

3. Gently separate the headphone jack from the circular clip.

4. We can now gently lift the actual headphone jack out of the device. Do this very carefully as we aren't completely removing it just yet.

5. Once dislodged, you'll now see another single screw in the outer frame that we'll need to remove in order to completely take out the upper antenna. Go ahead and remove it.

6. You can now safely lift the upper antenna out of the iPhone 4 and set it aside for reassembly.

Remove the defective headphone jack, mute switch, and volume button cable

1. Start by unscrewing the 4 screws outlined below that sit on the inside of the midframe by using your #00 Phillips screwdriver.

2. Using your tweezers, carefully dislodge the volume button and mute switch brackets, which are attached to the cables.

3. Now start to carefully peel back both cables. Notice in the photo below that the headphone jack and volume/mute cables must be removed together.

4. The entire assembly should now be freed from the device.

Reassemble your iPhone 4 using the new headphone jack, mute switch, and volume button cable

To assemble your device again, you're going to follow all the directions above in exact reverse order. Make sure that you transfer any brackets to the volume, mute, and headphone jack cable first if your new cable did not come with them pre-installed. Take note of where screws sit and make sure you line up the upper antenna correctly.

A pro tip is to make sure you test the volume buttons and mute switch after installing them to make sure they aren't hanging up and they are pressing correctly. Another good idea is to stick a headphone jack cable into the socket to make sure it goes in easy and removes easily. While you can't test sound at this point, it is always a good idea to check for a snug fit before proceeding. That's a good sign that you installed it correctly.

And ...done!

Once you've completely finished assembling the remainder of your Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4, go ahead and power it on. The first thing you'll want to check are functions related to the cable you replaced. This includes the headphone jack, volume buttons, mute switch, and the noise canceling mic. To test the mic, just record a quick video on your iPhone 4 and make sure when you play it back that you can hear audio. If all functions are working as they should, give yourself a huge pat on the back as you've successfully completed a not so easy repair all on your own.

Congrats!

Symptoms typically include audio cutting in and out when headphones are plugged in or no sound at all. The mute switch can also face issues where turning vibrate on or off results in no response or the switch itself being loose. These problems don't typically involve the actual mute switch, but the cable that lies underneath it.

Regardless whether you're having headphone jack or mute switch issues on your iPhone 4S, this guide can walk you through how to get both functions back in working order again.

Disclaimer: As with any repair, iMore cannot be held responsible for any damage you may do to your device. It's also worth considering that opening up your device to perform any repair or modification can and will void your Apple warranty. If you don't feel comfortable opening your device, don't. Use extreme care and caution when performing a repair on any device.

If you are comfortable with repairing your own device, put your ninja pants on and keep reading!

What you'll need to DIY replace an iPhone 4S headphone jack or mute switch

iMore recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like iFixYouri. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• iPhone 4S (any variant)
• Replacement headphone jack and mute switch cable
• 5-point security screwdriver
• Standard #000 Phillips screwdriver
• Spudger tool
• Razor blade
• iSesamo Opening tool (not necessary but awesome for prying up cables and getting under adhesive)
• SIM removal tool or paperclip

Power off your iPhone 4S

Before performing any repair you should always power off your device before opening it up.

Remove the back plate

1. Using your security screwdriver, remove the 2 screws on either side of the dock connector port.

2. Set them aside. They are both the exact same size and length so it does not matter if you mix them up. They are interchangeable.
3. Gently slide up the back plate by applying a bit of pressure along the bottom with your thumbs and sliding upwards.

4. Now lift off the back plate and set it aside.

Remove the battery and grounding clip

1. Using your #00 Phillips screwdriver, remove the two screws holding the battery in place.

2. These screws are different lengths so make sure you remember which one goes where. The one that is slightly larger is the bottom screw.
3. There is a tiny grounding clip underneath the battery clip where the first screw is located. Use your spudger tool or finger to remove it before prying the clip up. Many times it can go flying if you don't remove it first and then you'll have difficulty locating it so it's best to remove it first.

4. Now use your spudger tool and at the bottom of the battery clip, gently pry upwards so the clip pops up.

5. Move to the edge of the iPhone where the volume buttons are located and use your spudger tool to carefully pry up the battery. It is stuck down with a good amount of adhesive so be careful when prying upwards that you don't bend the battery. This is why I do not use the plastic tab that is provided. It typically rips or bends the battery. If one part is resistant move your pry tool a little further down and gently start prying it up in different places taking care not to come too close to the volume button cables towards the top.

6. Once you've gotten the battery pulled out of the iPhone 4S we can move on.

Remove the top logic board shields

1. Using your #00 Phillips screwdriver, remove the four screws that hold the top silver shield in place and the one screw that holds the small black shield in place.

2. Now use your spudger or pry tool to gently lift the silver shield out of the iPhone.

3. Use your spudger or pry tool to lift the black shield out of the iPhone.

4. Set both shields aside and make sure your screws are organized for reassembly later.

Unclip the top logic board cables & remove the rear-facing camera

Using your spudger or pry tool carefully disconnect all the cables at the top of the logic board. There are seven cables total. One of the cables lies underneath the bottom most cable so you'll need to disconnect the cable over it before folding it back and revealing the shorter cable underneath.

Once you unclip the seven cables, you can lift the rear-facing camera directly out of the iPhone. It is only connected by one cable.

Disconnect the dock connector

1. Using your #00 Phillips screwdriver remove the shield that is covering the dock connector cable towards the middle left of the iPhone. Remember which screw came from where as they are different sizes. Gently lift the shield out of the iPhone and set it aside.

2. Take your spudger tool and gently pry up the dock connector cable and peel it back as shown below. Perform this step with caution as there is adhesive on the underside of the cable. Take care not to rip the cable by pulling up to quickly.

3. Leave the cable in this position and move on to the next section.

Pry up the cellular antenna

1. Using your spudger toolcarefully pry up the round connection for the cellular antenna. It should come up easily so pry up gently.

2. You'll notice that it is wrapped around a metal clip. Gently unwrap it so it's sticking upwards and leave it in this position.

Remove the SIM card and tray

Using a SIM removal tool or a bent paper clip, eject the SIM tray and set it, and the SIM card aside.

Remove the logic board

1. Remove the three #00 Phillips screws at the top, middle, and bottom left of the logic board with your #00 Phillips screwdriver. The top screw has a piece of tape over it you'll need to peel back. After removing it you'll also notice a gold grounding clip underneath it. Make sure you don't lose it as you'll need it for reassembly.

2. There are two more screws holding the logic board in place and you'll need to remove them with your flat head screwdriver. They are located at the top right and bottom of the logic board.
3. Now you should be able to lift the logic board out of the iPhone. Use the area that the rear-facing camera was located and the bottom of the logic board to lift it straight out.

Remove the metal retainer & front facing camera

There is a metal retainer covering the front facing camera. To remove it use your pry tool to gently pull it off. Make sure you don't lose it as you'll need it for reassembly. Now that the metal retainer has been removed you can gently lift the front facing camera out of the iPhone 4S.

Remove the headphone jack and mute switch sensor cable assembly

1. Start by removing the screw holding on the upper antenna with your #00 Phillips screwdriver.

2. Using a metal spatula or pair of tweezers, peel the upper antenna away from the headphone jack. It is only held down with a bit of adhesive and should come loose rather easily. Take care to pay attention as to how it was laid so you know how to put it back during reassembly.

3. Use your tweezers or a pry tool to carefully loosen the noise canceling mic from the upper frame. Do not attempt to completely remove it since it is attached to the headphone jack cable. You'll only want to loosen it enough so the adhesive completely breaks.

4. Again, using tweezers or a pry tool carefully pull the headphone jack assembly out of your iPhone 4S. It is still attached so you'll only want to dislodge it from the midframe for now.

5. Now using the same #00 Phillips screwdriver, remove the screw towards the top of the casing.

6. Now travel a little further down the inside of the midframe and remove the four screws with your #00 Phillips screwdriver that hold in the vibrate switch as well as the volume buttons.

7. Carefully dislodge the vibrate switch using your tweezers or pry tool taking care not to completely pull it out just yet.

8. We now have all the components dislodged that are attached to the headphone and mute switch flex cable. From here we can now carefully pull up the cable and remove it in its entirety from the device.

Replace the headphone jack and mute switch cable

To replace the headphone jack and mute switch cable, follow the removal instructions exactly in reverse. Please note that you may have to transfer the metal brackets to the new cable if the replacement cable you purchased did not come with the brackets pre-installed.

Replace the front facing camera & metal retainer

Now replace the front facing camera with the new replacement part. Once it is securely in place you can replace the metal retainer by snapping it back in place.

Reassemble your iPhone 4S

To reassemble your iPhone 4S, you can either follow all these directions in exact reverse order or view our reassembly video guide above which will walk you through how to reassemble it from screen to turning it back on and testing it. For a headphone jack and sensor cable replacement, you'll need to watch from around 5 minutes and 3 seconds to the end of the video.

And ...done!

Once you've gotten your iPhone 4S completely reassembled and you're positive you don't have any leftover screws, you can go ahead and turn the device back on. If all went well, you should see the Apple logo. Since we've replaced a cable that controls both the headphone jack and the silent switch, make sure you test both thoroughly to make sure that they're working correctly.

If they are, pat yourself on the back. You're officially a DIY ninja.

Apple has released iOS 6.1.1 but only for the iPhone 4S, at least for now. The update comes amid reports of cellular data issues preventing proper use of the device, originally released in 2011. Apple's release notes include mention of just specifically that:

The update is available over-the-air (OTA) via Settings > General > Software update, or through iTunes via USB tether.

No word yet on a release of iOS 6.1.1 for other versions of the iPhone, or for the iPod touch or iPad and iPad mini. Apple did issue it in beta form recently, but likely expedited a limited version to fix the iPhone 4S-specific problems as quickly as possible. Whether that means the other versions are coming, or the next beta will be filliped to iOS 6.1.2 and proceed according to their original schedule is unknown.

If you've been experiencing cellular data problems with the iPhone 4S, once you've updated, let us know if they're really, truly fixed.

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The iPhone has been prone to power button issues ever since the iPhone 4 made its appearance. As it turns out, the iPhone 4S isn't immune from stuck power buttons either. Over time, the cable wears down and causes the actual power button to become harder and harder to press. In some cases, it becomes completely recessed resulting in presses not even registering.

If this issue sounds like something you're iPhone 4S is experiencing, a DIY repair can get it back to normal with some patience and the right tools. It'll also cost a heck of a lot less than a brand new iPhone.

If you're up for it, follow along. And if you're not, follow along anyway and we'll refer you to the professionals that can do the repair for you.

Disclaimer: As with any repair, iMore cannot be held responsible for any damage you may do to your device. It's also worth considering that opening up your device to perform any repair or modification can and will void your Apple warranty. If you don't feel comfortable opening your device, don't. Use extreme care and caution when performing a repair on any device.

What you'll need to DIY replace an iPhone 4S power button cable

iMore recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like iFixYouri. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• Replacement power button flex cable
• 5-point security screwdriver
• Standard #000 Phillips screwdriver
• Spudger tool
• Razor blade
• iSesamo Opening tool (not necessary but awesome for prying up cables and getting under adhesive)

Power off your iPhone 4S

Before performing any repair you should always power off your device before opening it up.

Remove the back plate

1. Using your security screwdriver, remove the 2 screws on either side of the dock connector port.

2. Set them aside. They are both the exact same size and length so it does not matter if you mix them up. They are interchangeable.
3. Gently slide up the back plate by applying a bit of pressure along the bottom with your thumbs and sliding upwards.

4. Now lift off the back plate and set it aside.

Remove the battery and grounding clip

1. Using your #00 Phillips screwdriver, remove the two screws holding the battery in place.

2. These screws are different lengths so make sure you remember which one goes where. The one that is slightly larger is the bottom screw.
3. There is a tiny grounding clip underneath the battery clip where the first screw is located. Use your spudger tool or finger to remove it before prying the clip up. Many times it can go flying if you don't remove it first and then you'll have difficulty locating it so it's best to remove it first.

4. Now use your spudger tool and at the bottom of the battery clip, gently pry upwards so the clip pops up.

5. Move to the edge of the iPhone where the volume buttons are located and use your spudger tool to carefully pry up the battery. It is stuck down with a good amount of adhesive so be careful when prying upwards that you don't bend the battery. This is why I do not use the plastic tab that is provided. It typically rips or bends the battery. If one part is resistant move your pry tool a little further down and gently start prying it up in different places taking care not to come too close to the volume button cables towards the top.

6. Once you've gotten the battery pulled out of the iPhone 4S we can move on to the next section.

Remove the top logic board shields

1. Using your #00 Phillips screwdriver, remove the four screws that hold the top silver shield in place and the one screw that holds the small black shield in place.

2. Now use your spudger or pry tool to gently lift the silver shield out of the iPhone.

3. Use your spudger or pry tool to lift the black shield out of the iPhone.

4. Set both shields aside and make sure your screws are organized for reassembly later.

Unclip the top logic board cables & remove the rear-facing camera

Using your spudger or pry tool carefully disconnect all the cables at the top of the logic board. There are seven cables total. One of the cables lies underneath the bottom most cable so you'll need to disconnect the cable over it before folding it back and revealing the shorter cable underneath.

Once you unclip the seven cables, you can lift the rear-facing camera directly out of the iPhone. It was only connected by one cable.

Disconnect the dock connector

1. Using your #00 Phillips screwdriver remove the shield that is covering the dock connector cable towards the middle left of the iPhone. Remember which screw came from where as they are different sizes. Gently lift the shield out of the iPhone and set it aside.

2. Take your spudger tool and gently pry up the dock connector cable and peel it back as shown below. Perform this step with caution as there is adhesive on the underside of the cable. Take care not to rip the cable by pulling up to quickly.

3. Leave the cable in this position and move on to the next section.

Pry up the cellular antenna

1. Using your spudger toolcarefully pry up the round connection for the cellular antenna. It should come up easily so pry up gently.

2. You'll notice that it is wrapped around a metal clip. Gently unwrap it so it's sticking upwards and leave it in this position.

Remove the SIM card and tray

Using a SIM removal tool or a bent paper clip, eject the SIM tray and set it, and the SIM card aside.

Remove the logic board

1. Remove the three #00 Phillips screws at the top, middle, and bottom left of the logic board with your #00 Phillips screwdriver. The top screw has a piece of tape over it you'll need to peel back. After removing it you'll also notice a gold grounding clip underneath it. Make sure you don't lose it as you'll need it for reassembly.

2. There are two more screws holding the logic board in place and you'll need to remove them with your flat head screwdriver. They are located at the top right and bottom of the logic board.
3. Now you should be able to lift the logic board out of the iPhone. Use the area that the rear-facing camera was located and the bottom of the logic board to lift it straight out.

Remove the front facing FaceTime camera

1. Pry up the metal shield that is guarding the front facing camera using your metal spatula or black spudger tool.

2. Now gently lift the front facing camera out of your iPhone 4S taking care not to tear the cable.

3. Set the front facing camera aside until reassembly.

Replace the power button flex cable

The actual button in the iPhone 4S is not what causes issues, it's the actual power and sensor cable, which is what you should have ordered to replace. This is the tricky part so make sure you're very careful while performing the following steps as the cables are very delicate.

1. Remove the two screws on either side of the power button bracket using your #00 Phillips screwdriver.

2. Gently unfold the power button cable using tweezers or your fingers. Do not attempt to completely remove it yet as it's still attached.

3. You may choose to remove the actual power button if you'd like but it's not necessary. It may fall out on its own and that's ok. Just make sure you have taken note as to how it goes back in. The bracket portion is face down.
4. Now use your black spudger tool or pry tool in order to pry up the earpiece and the foam attaching it to the midframe. Again, don't completely attempt to pull up the cable as it is still attached to the midframe of your iPhone.

5. There is a black bracket located directly above where the earpiece sat. Gently pry it up using a razor blade or metal spatula. Be careful not to break it as it's thin. I also recommend placing a hand or a finger over it so it doesn't fly out and get lost.

6. Now make sure the other end of the power and sensor flex cable isn't adhered to the midframe still.

7. Now you can go ahead and remove the power button and sensor cable assembly from the iPhone. You'll notice the earpiece is still attached. Just remove it from the assembly carefully and transfer it to the new one.

8. Depending on whether the replacement assembly you purchased came with a bracket preinstalled, you may also have to transfer the bracket as well.

You'll replace the power button and sensor cable very similarly to how you took it out, just in reverse order. Remember to take your time and make sure that cables are folded and bent the correct way. It sometimes helps to look at how your old cable is bent and folded and make sure the new cable looks the same.

Pro tip: When screwing back in the power button bracket, test the power button and make sure it depresses correctly and you hear it "click". Don't screw the bracket screws in too tight or you'll have issues with the button not depressing.

Reassemble your iPhone 4S

To reassemble your iPhone 4S, you can either follow all these directions in exact reverse order or view our reassembly video guide above which will walk you through how to reassemble it. Note that the reassembly is everything from the screen back to completely reassembled. You'll only need to watch from the point of replacing the logic board after you've got the front facing camera secured again.

And ...done!

Once you've completely reassembled your iPhone 4S (extra screws are bad!), you can go ahead and turn your iPhone back on using the power button. If you see an Apple logo, mission accomplished! You now know your power button is working again.

Once your iPhone 4S boots back up, make sure you test everything to make sure all is working well again. Tap the power button several times to turn the screen on and off just to re-confirm everything is back in working order.

That's it, you're done!

If you've got an iPhone 4S that's starting to show its age or you've accidentally damaged it, there's still hope for it. Whether you're not eligible for an upgrade yet or just want to hold out for the next round of Apple's latest and greatest, we can help get every ounce of life you possibly can out of your iPhone 4S. Even after you decide to upgrade your iPhone, your old one always makes a great hand me down for a child or relative that doesn't always need the latest model.

iMore will help you get the longest life possible out of your iPhone 4S, and walk you step by step through all the major repairs, with detailed instructions, photographs, and links to high-quality parts from suppliers we trust.

Click on any of the guides below in order to be taken to a description of that guide explaining common symptoms, diagnostics pertaining to each repair, and a link to each full guide. Remember to bookmark this page as we'll be adding more as we add new guides.

• How to replace the battery in an iPhone 4s
• How to replace a cracked screen on an iPhone 4S
• How to fix an unresponsive Home button in an iPhone 4S
• How to DIY repair a broke or recessed power button in an iPhone 4S
• How to replace the dock connector in an iPhone 4S
• How to fix sound issues in an iPhone 4 or iPhone 4S
• How to replace the cellular antenna in an iPhone 4S
• How to replace the vibrator assembly in an iPhone 4S
• How to replace the rear facing camera in an iPhone 4S
• How to replace the front facing FaceTime camera in an iPhone 4S
• How to fix a blown or distorted earpiece in an iPhone 4S
• How to replace the volume buttons in an iPhone 4S
• How to replace the loud speaker assembly in an iPhone 4S

How to replace the battery in an iPhone 4S

Now that the iPhone 4S is more than a year old, many users may want to change their battery if their charge cycles aren't what they used to be. A bad battery can also cause your iPhone 4S not to boot at all. So if your iPhone doesn't want to turn on at all, the battery is a good place to start.

• How to replace the battery in an iPhone 4S

How to replace a cracked screen on an iPhone 4S

This one doesn't need any introduction and is one of the most common DIY repairs for any clumsy iPhone user. If you've shattered your screen, you've come to the right place.

This guide will also work to replace the LCD since they're one piece. Whether your touch screen isn't working, you've cracked your glass, or you have a distorted or non-functional LCD, this is the guide you'll want.

• How to replace a cracked screen on an iPhone 4S

How to fix an unresponsive Home button in an iPhone 4S

The Home button is a common problem for all iPhone owners, and the iPhone 4S is no exception. If your iPhone is misreading double, triple, and single taps, the Home button flex cable is probably going bad. In some cases, your Home button can stop responding altogether.

If this sounds like a problem you're experiencing, we've got you covered from start to finish.

• How to fix an unresponsive Home button in an iPhone 4S

How to DIY replace a broke or recessed power button in an iPhone 4S

The power button has been a common issue since the iPhone 4 made its appearance. The iPhone 4S isn't immune to the same issues either. Symptoms can include a recessed power button. Sometimes the power button will still function but you'll have to push down extremely hard in order to get it to register. In severe cases, pressing it is futile and results in no response.

A DIY repair can remedy the issue but be aware this is a ninja level repair as the components and cable you have to replace are very small. If you're up for it, hit the link directly below to find out how to fix a recessed or unresponsive power button.

• How to DIY replace a broke or recessed power button in an iPhone 4S

How to replace the dock connector in an iPhone 4S

The dock connector assembly in the iPhone 4S controls quite a few key components in your phone. The most important one being the ability to charge your iPhone. If your iPhone 4S won't register a charge or doesn't show up when plugged into your computer, the dock connector could very likely be the culprit.

There is also a mic located on the dock connector that can affect sound issues. If any of these issues sound like something you're experiencing, make sure you check out our guide to see if it's the right one. If not, keep reading.

• How to replace the dock connector in an iPhone 4S

How to fix sound issues in an iPhone 4 or iPhone 4S

While most sound in the iPhone 4S may be dictated by the loud speaker assembly or earpiece, they're not the only components that have to do with sound. Actually, the dock connector and a few other cables can cause you to have sound issues.

The iPhone 4S is known to have sound issues where system sounds seem to work when you preview them but they don't actually ring or system sounds altogether don't work but music will play. Sound weird? It is. But there's a fix for it.

• How to fix sound issues in an iPhone 4 or iPhone 4S

How to replace the cellular antenna in an iPhone 4S

If you're experiencing issues with cellular reception on your iPhone 4S, the cellular antenna could be defective. Luckily, it's one of the easier DIY repairs when it comes to the iPhone 4S variant. If everything else on your iPhone is working perfectly, a replacement antenna will cost you a lot less than a brand new phone.

• How to replace the cellular antenna in an iPhone 4S

How to replace the vibrator assembly in an iPhone 4S

The vibrator assembly is a super essential function and necessary if you want to be notified you have a call or a message coming in when you can't have sound activated. If and when it goes out, it can be terribly inconvenient.

While it isn't the easiest DIY repair when it comes to the iPhone 4S, it's not impossible and it'll cost you tons less than a new iPhone.

• How to replace the vibrator assembly in an iPhone 4S

How to replace the rear facing camera in an iPhone 4S

While most people use their iPhone to communicate, one of the iPhone 4S' best features is arguably its camera. It makes everything from photographing first steps to family events to sending videos straight to YouTube super simple and crystal clear. So when it goes out, it's a huge problem.

While it isn't common, it can happen from time to time. But never fear, it's actually a very easy repair to perform on your own. Most will be able to do it and everyone will be able to afford it.

• How to replace the rear facing camera in an iPhone 4S

How to replace the front facing FaceTime camera in an iPhone 4S

While the rear facing camera is great for capturing the memories around you, the front facing camera is a great way to communicate with relatives via FaceTime and capture self portraits. If you frequently use your front facing camera and it has decided to stop working on you, we can get it up and running again.

Symptoms of a bad front facing camera typically amount to the shutter never opening no matter how many times you restore the phone or reboot it. In rare instances you can also see lots of distortion or lines through the screen only when the front facing camera is open.

• How to replace the front facing FaceTime camera in an iPhone 4S

How to fix a blown or distorted earpiece in an iPhone 4S

The earpiece is another common repair we get a lot of questions about. A bad earpiece can present itself in multiple ways. The most common being garbled, echoing, or unpleasant audio. In some instances you may not even hear any audio unless you've got the caller on speakerphone.

Luckily, an earpiece replacement is on the cheap side and isn't terribly hard to perform on your own. If you aren't ready to upgrade just yet, a DIY repair for an earpiece is a realistic option for many users.

• How to fix a blown or distorted earpiece in an iPhone 4S

How to replace the volume buttons in an iPhone 4S

If you've dropped your iPhone 4S, you may have noticed that the steel frame around edges can become quite sharp. If one of the volume buttons has become ridged or jagged, it could potentially be a safety issue.

Replacing them will require some patience but we're pretty sure your fingers will thank you.

• How to replace the volume buttons in an iPhone 4S

How to replace the loud speaker assembly in an iPhone 4S

A bad loud speaker can cause all kinds of issues with the iPhone 4S. Music, ringtones, and text tones will most likely not play unless you have headphones plugged in.

While it's unusual for the actual loud speaker assembly to go bad, it isn't unheard of. In our experience it's normally the dock connector or earpiece that are the culprit but that doesn't mean the loud speaker never decides to be unruly. If you have absolutely no sounds through the loud speaker portion of your iPhone 4S but everything works completely normal through headphones, then odds are your loud speaker assembly has in fact went out.

If a combination of sounds work through the loud speaker, we'd suggest looking at our other guides concerning sound instead of assuming it's the loud speaker.

• How to replace the loud speaker assembly in an iPhone 4S

More DIY guides!

While this guide covers the iPhone 4S specifically, we've got tons more DIY repair guides to cover everything from older iPhones to iPod touches and iPads. If these aren't the guides you're looking for, fret not! You can find more at the links below.

Symptoms can range from no sound from the headphone jack to something being stuck inside. If your volume buttons aren't working or you have to push down extremely hard, this replacement cable should also fix that issue.

So if you're out of warranty and don't fancy buying a new iPhone just yet, follow along to see if you're up for the challenge.

Disclaimer: As with any repair, iMore cannot be held responsible for any damage you may do to your device. It's also worth considering that opening up your device to perform any repair or modification can and will void your Apple warranty. If you don't feel comfortable opening your device, don't. Use extreme care and caution when performing a repair on any device.

What you need to fix the volume control and headphone jack cable

iMore recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like iFixYouri. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• GSM iPhone 4
• Replacement volume control and headphone jack flex cable
• #00 Phillips screwdriver
• Security screwdriver
• Spudger tool
• SIM removal tool or paperclip

Power off your iPhone 4

Before performing any repair, always power off your device before removing any screws or parts.

Remove the back

2. First remove the bottom 2 dock connector screws in your iPhone 4. Use either your #00 screwdriver or the five point depending on whether or not your iPhone 4 has security screws in the dock connector. Almost all newer devices will have security screws.

3. To remove the back simply slide the back upwards and lift it off gently.
4. Set the back and 2 dock connector screws aside.

Remove your SIM card

Use a SIM removal tool or a paperclip to remove your SIM card and tray. Set them aside.

Remove the battery

2. To remove the battery you'll need to remove the #00 screw holding the battery clip in place. Remove this screw located to the bottom left of the battery.

3. The metal clip on the battery is what clips the battery to the logic board. You'll need to pop this clip up with your plastic pry tool. Simply stick the end of your pry tool underneath the clip and gently pull upwards until it unfastens from the logic board.

4. To remove the battery, I do not recommend using the plastic pull tab. There is quite a bit of adhesive underneath the battery and the tab will normally just rip off or you can bend the battery. Instead, run your pry tool along the right side of the battery and break the adhesive that way. Once the battery is free from the adhesive, you can pull the battery out of the phone. There are no other connectors holding it in.

5. You will notice a tiny grounding clip sitting underneath where you unscrewed the battery. Set this aside for replacement during reassembly. This is a grounding clip for your antenna. Make sure you put it back in place before reconnecting your battery.

Remove the dock connector shield and disconnect the cable

2. There is a shield held on with two screws covering the dock connector cable. Remove the two screws holding it in place and set the shield and screws aside, remembering where they came from.

3. Next, use your pry tool to pry up the actual dock connector cable. Be careful as there is adhesive holding the cable in place as well. Peel back the adhesive gently to free the cable.

Remove the top logic board shield

2. There are 5 screws holding the logic board shield in place. Remove the 5 screws holding it in place. Just be sure to remember which holes they came out of as the screws are different sizes. I always keep them in order of how they came out.

3. Next you'll need to remove the shield. There is a tiny clip built into the shield holding it in place. (Refer to the photo above.) Pop it up with your pry tool and you should be able to slide the shield up fairly easily. Just take care not to bend it or break off a clip.

Disconnect the 6 cables from the top of the logic board

2. There is only one connector holding the camera to the logic board. Remove this cable in the picture above using your pry tool. Gently lift upwards and it will pop right off.

3. Next gently lift the camera out of the device. You'll notice there is a tiny tab that is seated underneath the LCD and digitizer cables to the right.
4. Next pop up the LCD and digitizer cables to the right of where the camera cable was connected. You pop them up in the same direction.
5. The 3 cables further to the right will need to be disconnected as well. They pop up in the opposite direction.

Disconnect the cellular antenna

To disconnect the cellular antenna, just pop the round cable up from the logic board holding it in place. It is connected to the speaker housing so just leave it where it is for now.

Remove the logic board

2. Start with the 2 screws holding the logic board down in the middle and at the bottom left. Both use your #00 Phillips screwdriver. They are the same size. The one on the right of the logic board in the middle of the device has a water sensor over it you'll need to remove.
3. The second screw is located where the logic board meets the speaker assembly towards the bottom left of the device.
4. The third and final screw holding the logic board in is located at the top of the logic board off to the right. It is the only cross-head screw in your device. Use a small flathead screwdriver to carefully remove it.

5. You should now be able to remove your logic board. Holding it at the bottom, gently pull it upwards. I use my other hand to lift up at the top where the rear facing camera used to be.
6. Take note that there is a small rubber piece that sits at the top of the logic board. You will need this for re-assembly so make sure it doesn't fall off. If you lose this, you could possibly experience grounding issues.

Remove the metal retainer & front facing camera

There is a metal retainer covering the front facing camera. To remove it use your pry tool to gently pull it off. Make sure you don't lose it as you'll need it for reassembly. Now that the metal retainer has been removed you can gently lift the front facing camera out of the iPhone 4.

Remove the vibrator assembly

1. Remove the two screws holding the vibrator assembly in place using your #00 Phillips screwdriver.

2. Carefully lift the vibrator assembly out of the iPhone 4 and set it aside.

Remove the headphone jack and volume flex cable

1. Start by removing the piece of black tape covering the volume buttons with your pry tool. Make sure you aren't grabbing the actual cable.

2. Now use your #00 Phillips screwdriver to remove the five screws labeled in the picture below. The top corner screw can be somewhat hard to get at from an angle. Just take care not to strip it.

3. Remove the metal retainer clip with your tweezers that covers the cable for the mute switch.

4. Use your tweezers or spudger tool again to slightly separate the volume buttons from the casing as well as the mute switch. Do not completely remove them yet as they are still attached to the headphone jack and some adhesive to the frame.

5. Gently peel the cables back from the frame of the device. They are only held down with a bit of adhesive. Don't pull it completely out as we still need to remove the headphone jack, which is attached.
6. Use your tweezers to gently pull up the headphone jack assembly itself. Once it is free the entire cable and assembly should come up easily.

Replace the headphone jack and volume flex cable

1. The replace the headphone jack and volume button assembly you'll need to remove any adhesive backing on the new assembly.
2. Start by placing the headphone jack assembly and making sure it's firmly in place.

3. Next line up the mute switch area of the cable.
4. Now line up the volume buttons making certain that you're folding or creasing the cable in the correct areas.

5. Next replace the metal retainer that sits over the mute switch portion of the assembly.

6. Replace the five screws that you removed earlier making sure the buttons are lined up correctly behind them.

7. Use your finger to make sure the adhesive on the back of the cables is firmly pushed down along the frame.

8. Lastly, test the mute switch and volume up and down buttons to make sure they are lined up correctly.

Reassemble your iPhone 4

Now that you've finished replacing the headphone jack and volume flex cable, all we've got left to do is reassemble. You can either follow these directions in exact reverse order or watch the reassembly video above. The video is a replacement for a cracked screen and involved an almost complete teardown so you won't need to follow the entire thing. You can start off from around the 3 minute and 18-second mark to complete assembly.

And... done!

Once you've got your iPhone 4 put completely back together you can go ahead and power it on. If all went well you should see the typical Apple logo come up. After the phone completely finished rebooting, plug in a pair of headphones to make sure the headphone jack is in working order. Then test the volume buttons and mute switch to make sure those are all functioning properly again.

If you've got an iPhone 4 or iPhone 4S that's having some issues with sound, you probably aren't alone. Issues could range from system sounds working but your iPhone not actually ringing or system sounds not working unless plugged into the headphone jack. While sound can be caused by several issues, symptoms like this are typically fixable with a pretty simple DIY repair.

If any of the above symptoms sound like what you're experiencing, follow along for a more detailed list of symptoms and how to correct the problem.

This week we're doing things a little differently and instead of giving you a new repair, we're going to take a look at some existing mods that should fix very common sound issues pertaining to both the iPhone 4S and iPhone 4.

Disclaimer: As with any repair, iMore can not be held responsible for any damage you may do to your device. It’s also worth considering that opening up your device to perform any repair or modification can and will void your Apple warranty. If you don’t feel comfortable opening your device, don’t. Use extreme care and caution when performing a repair on any device.

If you are comfortable with repairing your own device, put your ninja pants on and keep reading!

Symptoms

Sounds issues are a common problem we see with the iPhone 4 and iPhone 4S. Some users have been experiencing quite a few simliar issues lately that can be solved quite easily using repair guides we already have readily available to you. If you're experiencing any of the following symptom combinations, we would suggest trying the repair solutions linked below.

Your iPhone 4 or iPhone 4S will ring when someone calls it or you can go into Settings and get sounds to play but system sounds don't work throughout iOS such as keyboard clicks, lock/unlock sounds, and certain system notifications.

If you can go into Settings and hear system sound previews but no sound actually produces when an alert such as a phone call, text message, or email come in.

If your sounds work sporadically or in any combination of the above symptoms.

How to fix sound issues

Before performing any kind of hardware repair, you should always try a restore first to rule out software issues. A DFU restore is the kind of restore we recommend for issues like this. If you aren't sure how to put your iPhone in DFU mode, you can follow our guide:

• How to put your iPhone or iPad in DFU mode

Wait, what? You may be asking yourself why replacing the dock connector would fix sound issues. Actually, the dock connector component contains some wiring and components that delegate sound throughout your iPhone. In our experience, if you're experiencing the sound issues like we've described above, 9 times out of 10 a dock connector replacement fixes the issue.

Depending on whether you have an iPhone 4 or iPhone 4S, you can check out our guides and replace the dock connector on the device on your own. It'll cost you a lot less than a brand new iPhone and will only take about 30 minutes. The best part is, you should have sound again.

• How to replace the dock connector in an iPhone 4S
• How to replace the dock connector in a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4
• How to replace the dock connector in a AT&T/GSM iPhone 4

If you're experiencing no sound at all or it is heavily distorted, your issue may be the actual loud speaker itself or another component related to how sound is handled. We have many tutorials and guides for replacing other components related to sound in our DIY section that you can access via the links below.

Get more DIY help

If you're running into issues with a DIY repair or need some more answers, our DIY and mod forums are a great place to start. Still have questions? Feel free to email us.

Additional resources:

• AT&T/GSM iPhone 4: Ultimate DIY repair guide
• Verizon and Sprint iPhone 4: Ultimate DIY repair guide
• iPhone 3G/3GS: Ultimate DIY repair guide
• Even more DIY repair guides

Like any other metal, steel can become sharp or jagged when damaged. If you've got an iPhone 4S and you've physically damaged the volume buttons, a DIY repair can get them back into like new condition in no time. If you didn't opt for AppleCare+ and your normal warranty won't cover the damage, taking matters into your own hands may not be a bad idea.

Follow along and we'll walk you through how to get those buttons back into perfect condition for a lot less than what the cost of a new iPhone is.

Disclaimer: As with any repair, iMore cannot be held responsible for any damage you may do to your device. It's also worth considering that opening up your device to perform any repair or modification can and will void your Apple warranty. If you don't feel comfortable opening your device, don't. Use extreme care and caution when performing a repair on any device.

If you are comfortable with repairing your own device, put your ninja pants on and keep reading!

What you'll need to DIY replace your iPhone 4S volume buttons

iMore recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like iFixYouri. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• iPhone 4S (any variant)
• Replacement volume buttons
• #00 Phillips screwdriver
• Security screwdriver
• Spudger tool
• SIM removal tool or paperclip
• Tweezers (optional but recommended)

Power off your iPhone 4S

Before performing any repair you should always power off your device before opening it up.

Remove the back plate

1. Using your security screwdriver, remove the 2 screws on either side of the dock connector port.

2. Set them aside. They are both the exact same size and length so it does not matter if you mix them up. They are interchangeable.
3. Gently slide up the back plate by applying a bit of pressure along the bottom with your thumbs and sliding upwards.

4. Now lift off the back plate and set it aside.

Remove the battery and grounding clip

1. Using your #00 Phillips screwdriver, remove the two screws holding the battery in place.

2. These screws are different lengths so make sure you remember which one goes where. The one that is slightly larger is the bottom screw.
3. There is a tiny grounding clip underneath the battery clip where the first screw is located. Use your spudger tool or finger to remove it before prying the clip up. Many times it can go flying if you don't remove it first and then you'll have difficulty locating it so it's best to remove it first.

4. Now use your spudger tool and at the bottom of the battery clip, gently pry upwards so the clip pops up.

5. Move to the edge of the iPhone where the volume buttons are located and use your spudger tool to carefully pry up the battery. It is stuck down with a good amount of adhesive so be careful when prying upwards that you don't bend the battery. This is why I do not use the plastic tab that is provided. It typically rips or bends the battery. If one part is resistant move your pry tool a little further down and gently start prying it up in different places taking care not to come too close to the volume button cables towards the top.

6. Once you've gotten the battery pulled out of the iPhone 4S we can move on.

Unscrew and move the volume button bracket

To get at the volume buttons themselves, we'll have to unscrew the volume button bracket. We won't be removing it altogether but we'll need to lift it out of the housing in order to access the buttons.

1. Using your #00 Phillips screwdriver, remove the three screws outlined in the photo below remembering which screw came from where.

2. Use your pry tool or fingers to gently back the volume button bracket away from the outer casing.

3. Take care not to pull it out too far as it is still attached to the board. We only need to move it enough to get to the actual volume buttons.

Replace the volume buttons

1. Using tweezers or your fingers, gently lift the old volume buttons out of the casing.

2. Now line up the new buttons inside the casing making sure that you are inserting them the correct way (+ and - symbols in the correct orientation).
3. Make sure the buttons remain flush with the casing and move on to the next step in order to secure them in place.

Replace the volume button bracket

1. Line up the volume button bracket so it covers the volume buttons.
2. Using your #00 Phillips screwdriver, carefully replace the three screws you removed earlier.

3. Test the volume buttons to make sure they press down correctly. If they don't, the bracket probably is not lined up correctly. Remove the screws and try again.
4. If the buttons are clicking properly, go ahead and move onto the next step.

Replace the battery and grounding clip

1. Line up the grounding clip you removed previously over the screw hole before snapping down the battery.

2. Snap down the battery in place to the logic board and then position the battery and press down firmly to make sure the adhesive sticks.
3. Replace the two screws you removed in a prior step starting with the top one using your #00 Phillips screwdriver. Make sure the grounding clip stays positioned. Use your other hand to hold it straight while you replace the top screw if you need to.

4. Now replace the bottom screw.

Replace the back plate

1. To replace the back plate line up the hinges around the edges. It should fall right into place. There will be a gap at the bottom.

2. Using slight pressure slide the cover down into place with your thumbs. If there is resistance make sure the hinges are lined up correctly and don't force it down and you can easily snap the hinge if it's caught up on something.
3. Once the back cover is securely in place and flush with the antenna band, replace the two screws on either side of the dock connector using your security screwdriver.

And ...done!

Once you've finished putting your iPhone 4S completely back together you can go ahead and turn it back on. The first thing you'll want to do is test out the volume buttons and make sure that they are functioning properly. If they are, you're in great shape!

The iPhone 4S has been around for a little over a year now and as with any device, normal wear and tear can cause components to fail over time. The Home button is the most used hardware function on the iPhone which means it's typically the first one to give out. While Apple changed the Home button design slightly from the iPhone 4S's predecessors, the flex cable can still wear over time leading to misfires when single and double tapping or even worse, the Home button can give out altogether.

If you're out of warranty and your Home button is giving you a headache, we can help you DIY repair it for much less than the price of a new iPhone.

Disclaimer: As with any repair, iMore cannot be held responsible for any damage you may do to your device. It's also worth considering that opening up your device to perform any repair or modification can and will void your Apple warranty. If you don't feel comfortable opening your device, don't. Use extreme care and caution when performing a repair on any device.

If you are comfortable with repairing your own device, put your ninja pants on and keep reading!

What you'll need to DIY replace an iPhone 4S Home button flex cable

iMore recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like iFixYouri. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• Replacement Home button flex cable
• 5-point security screwdriver
• Standard #000 Phillips screwdriver
• Spudger tool
• Razor blade
• iSesamo Opening tool (not necessary but awesome for prying up cables and getting under adhesive)
• SIM removal tool or paperclip

Power off your iPhone 4S

Before performing any repair you should always power off your device before opening it up.

Remove the back plate

1. Using your security screwdriver, remove the 2 screws on either side of the dock connector port.

2. Set them aside. They are both the exact same size and length so it does not matter if you mix them up. They are interchangeable.
3. Gently slide up the back plate by applying a bit of pressure along the bottom with your thumbs and sliding upwards.

4. Now lift off the back plate and set it aside.

Remove the battery and grounding clip

1. Using your #00 Phillips screwdriver, remove the two screws holding the battery in place.

2. These screws are different lengths so make sure you remember which one goes where. The one that is slightly larger is the bottom screw.
3. There is a tiny grounding clip underneath the battery clip where the first screw is located. Use your spudger tool or finger to remove it before prying the clip up. Many times it can go flying if you don't remove it first and then you'll have difficulty locating it so it's best to remove it first.

4. Now use your spudger tool and at the bottom of the battery clip, gently pry upwards so the clip pops up.

5. Move to the edge of the iPhone where the volume buttons are located and use your spudger tool to carefully pry up the battery. It is stuck down with a good amount of adhesive so be careful when prying upwards that you don't bend the battery. This is why I do not use the plastic tab that is provided. It typically rips or bends the battery. If one part is resistant move your pry tool a little further down and gently start prying it up in different places taking care not to come too close to the volume button cables towards the top.

6. Once you've gotten the battery pulled out of the iPhone 4S we can move on to inserting the replacement battery.

Remove the top logic board shields

1. Using your #00 Phillips screwdriver, remove the four screws that hold the top silver shield in place and the one screw that holds the small black shield in place.

2. Now use your spudger or pry tool to gently lift the silver shield out of the iPhone.

3. Use your spudger or pry tool to lift the black shield out of the iPhone.

4. Set both shields aside and make sure your screws are organized for reassembly later.

Unclip the top logic board cables & remove the rear-facing camera

Using your spudger or pry tool carefully disconnect all the cables at the top of the logic board. There are seven cables total. One of the cables lies underneath the bottom most cable so you'll need to disconnect the cable over it before folding it back and revealing the shorter cable underneath.

Once you unclip the seven cables, you can lift the rear-facing camera directly out of the iPhone. It was only connected by one cable.

Disconnect the dock connector

1. Using your #00 Phillips screwdriver remove the shield that is covering the dock connector cable towards the middle left of the iPhone. Remember which screw came from where as they are different sizes. Gently lift the shield out of the iPhone and set it aside.

2. Take your spudger tool and gently pry up the dock connector cable and peel it back as shown below. Perform this step with caution as there is adhesive on the underside of the cable. Take care not to rip the cable by pulling up to quickly.

3. Leave the cable in this position and move on to the next section.

Pry up the cellular antenna

1. Using your spudger toolcarefully pry up the round connection for the cellular antenna. It should come up easily so pry up gently.

2. You'll notice that it is wrapped around a metal clip. Gently unwrap it so it's sticking upwards and leave it in this position.

Remove the SIM card and tray

Using a SIM removal tool or a bent paper clip, eject the SIM tray and set it, and the SIM card aside.

Remove the logic board

1. Remove the three #00 Phillips screws at the top, middle, and bottom left of the logic board with your #00 Phillips screwdriver. The top screw has a piece of tape over it you'll need to peel back. After removing it you'll also notice a gold grounding clip underneath it. Make sure you don't lose it as you'll need it for reassembly.

2. There are two more screws holding the logic board in place and you'll need to remove them with your flat head screwdriver. They are located at the top right and bottom of the logic board.
3. Now you should be able to lift the logic board out of the iPhone. Use the area that the rear-facing camera was located and the bottom of the logic board to lift it straight out.

Remove the loud speaker assembly

1. The loud speaker is held in with two screws that are located on both sides of the assembly. Use your #00 Phillips screwdriver to remove them.

2. The screw on the left hand side of the assembly has a black triangular spacer underneath it. Make sure you don't lose it and set it aside for reassembly.

3. After the two screws are removed you can gently lift the speaker assembly out of the iPhone.

Remove the vibrator assembly

The vibrator assembly is only held down with a bit of adhesive. Use your pry tool or metal spatula tool in order to loosen the adhesive and remove the vibrator assembly. Just make sure you are careful not to bend it.

Remove the digitizer and LCD assembly

For this section, we highly recommend watching the teardown video above as it will show you the technique for removing the display that will best compliment the written steps much better than pictures can.

1. Hold the iPhone so the screen is facing you and insert your pry tool or metal spatula into the top left corner and slowly start breaking the adhesive underneath the display by moving your tool gently back and forth taking care not to bend the front panel as it can damage the LCD and/or digitizer.
2. Once the top left is free, move over to the top right corner and repeat.
3. After the top of the assembly is free, move towards the bottom on either side of the Home button and repeat the same process.
4. Once all the adhesive is broken, carefully pull the front assembly off the iPhone taking care to make sure the digitizer and LCD cables don't get caught up in the frame.

Replace the Home button flex cable

Typically the Home button flex cable, not the actual button itself is what causes issues. It wears down over time and then doesn't make contact or not enough which causes misreads for single and double taps. In this step, we'll replace the problem cable.

1. Hold your iPhone 4S midframe so you can see the inside of where the dock connector assembly sits. You'll notice there is a tiny bracket holding the Home button cable in place. Pop up the single clip using your pry tool holding it in place.

2. You can now use your fingers or the edge of a pry tool to back the Home button cable out of the clip.

3. Turn the frame over and push the old cable through the front.

4. The remaining part of the Home button cable is only held down with adhesive. Simply pull it up.

5. Replace the old cable with the new one.

Reassemble your iPhone 4S

To reassemble your iPhone 4S, you can either follow all these directions in exact reverse order or view our reassembly video guide above which will walk you through how to reassemble it from screen to turning it back on and testing it.

And ...done!

Now that you've completely reassembled your iPhone 4S you can go ahead and hold down the power button in order to turn it back on. After it boots up make sure to test the Home button functionality as well as the digitizer since we removed that as well. It's always a good idea to place a few test calls and test all functionality including the loud speaker just to make sure everything was put back together correctly.

Once you've verified that everything is back to working order, give yourself a high five for completing one of the more difficult DIY repairs we've dished out to you!

If you've got an iPhone 4S and you're experiencing issues with reception, the cellular antenna may be the culprit. If you no longer have AppleCare or insurance to cover it, a DIY repair isn't terribly hard to perform as long as you've got a little technical how know. Symptoms of a bad cellular antenna can vary from no service to service cutting in and out consistently.

If you're experiencing any of these symptoms, continue on and we'll walk you through how to replace it yourself.

Disclaimer: As with any repair, iMore cannot be held responsible for any damage you may do to your device. It's also worth considering that opening up your device to perform any repair or modification can and will void your Apple warranty. If you don't feel comfortable opening your device, don't. Use extreme care and caution when performing a repair on any device.

Before you proceed

If you're experiencing audio issues, the culprit is most likely not the antenna but rather the earpiece. This can include garbled audio, unpleasant tones, or not being able to hear at all. If that's the case, try replacing the earpiece speaker.

• How to replace the earpiece speaker in an iPhone 4S

What you'll need to DIY replace an iPhone 4S cellular antenna

iMore recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like iFixYouri. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• Replacement cellular antenna
• #00 Phillips screwdriver
• Security screwdriver
• Spudger tool

Power off your iPhone 4S

Before performing any repair you should always power off your device before opening it up.

Remove the back plate

1. Using your security screwdriver, remove the 2 screws on either side of the dock connector port.

2. Set them aside. They are both the exact same size and length so it does not matter if you mix them up. They are interchangeable.
3. Gently slide up the back plate by applying a bit of pressure along the bottom with your thumbs and sliding upwards.

4. Now lift off the back plate and set it aside.

Remove the battery and grounding clip

1. Using your #00 Phillips screwdriver, remove the two screws holding the battery in place.

2. These screws are different lengths so make sure you remember which one goes where. The one that is slightly larger is the bottom screw.
3. There is a tiny grounding clip underneath the battery clip where the first screw is located. Use your spudger tool or finger to remove it before prying the clip up. Many times it can go flying if you don't remove it first and then you'll have difficulty locating it so it's best to remove it first.

4. Now use your spudger tool and at the bottom of the battery clip, gently pry upwards so the clip pops up.

5. Move to the edge of the iPhone where the volume buttons are located and use your spudger tool to carefully pry up the battery. It is stuck down with a good amount of adhesive so be careful when prying upwards that you don't bend the battery. This is why I do not use the plastic tab that is provided. It typically rips or bends the battery. If one part is resistant move your pry tool a little further down and gently start prying it up in different places taking care not to come too close to the volume button cables towards the top.

6. Once you've gotten the battery pulled out of the iPhone 4S we can move on to inserting the replacement battery.

Pry up the dock connector cable

1. Using your #00 Phillips screwdriver remove the shield that is covering the dock connector cable towards the middle left of the iPhone. Remember which screw came from where as they are different sizes. Gently lift the shield out of the iPhone and set it aside.

2. Take your spudger tool and gently pry up the dock connector cable and peel it back as shown below. Perform this step with caution as there is adhesive on the underside of the cable. Take care not to rip the cable by pulling up to quickly.

3. Leave the cable in this position and move on to the next section.

Pry up the cellular antenna connector

1. Using your spudger toolcarefully pry up the round connection for the cellular antenna. It should come up easily so pry up gently.

2. You'll notice that it is wrapped around a metal clip. Gently unwrap it so it's sticking upwards and leave it in this position.

Remove the 2 screws on either side of the loud speaker

There are 2 screws holding the speaker assembly in place. We will need to remove these.

1. Using your #00 Phillips screwdriver unscrew the 2 screws on either side of the speaker enclosure as shown. The 2 screws are the exact same size.

2. Where you removed the screw on the left side you'll notice a small black triangular spacer. Be sure not to lose this and set it aside for reassembly.
3. Carefully remove the speaker assembly from the iPhone 4S by lifting upwards.

Remove the old cellular antenna

The cellular antenna is attached to the loud speaker assemble which means we'll need to remove the old antenna and install the new one.

1. Remove the two screws that hold the cellular antenna to the speaker assembly using your #00 Phillips screwdriver.

2. The cellular antenna is now only held on with adhesive. Carefully use your spudger or pry tool in order to finish removing the cellular antenna from the speaker enclosure.

3. Now we will place the cellular antenna onto the new assembly.

Replace the cellular antenna

1. Carefully align the cellular antenna onto the new assembly the exact same way it was on the old one.
2. Follow the grooves in the edges to know where to position the edges.
3. Replace the 2 screws that you removed from the Wi-Fi antenna into the new assembly.

Replace the speaker assembly

1. Carefully place the speaker assembly back into the iPhone 4S. Pay close attention to the 4 teeth that run along the bottom front of the speaker assembly.

2. Make sure all 4 teeth are snug underneath the frame of where the speaker assembly sits. You can tell if they are pushed up or in position fairly easily. If they are pushed up, use your spudger tool to gently push them down underneath the frame.
3. Place the black triangular spacer into place where the left screw will be replaced before screwing back in any screws.
4. Replace the 2 screws on either side of the speaker assembly using your #00 Phillips screwdriver.

Replace the dock connector cable

1. Carefully push back down the dock connector cable with your finger and run over the cable's length to make sure the adhesive is pushed back down.

2. Now replace the shield that covers the cable and the 2 screws on either side.

Replace the battery and grounding clip

1. Pay attention to how the cable is bent on your old battery and if the new one is not crimped in the same fashion put the folds in it before inserting it into the iPhone 4S.

2. Line up the grounding clip you removed previously over the screw hole before snapping down the battery.

3. Snap down the battery in place to the logic board and then position the battery and press down firmly to make sure the adhesive sticks.
4. Replace the two screws you removed in a prior step starting with the top one using your #00 Phillips screwdriver. Make sure the grounding clip stays positioned. Use your other hand to hold it straight while you replace the top screw if you need to.

5. Now replace the bottom screw.

Replace the back plate

1. To replace the back plate line up the hinges around the edges. It should fall right into place. There will be a gap at the bottom.

2. Using slight pressure slide the cover down into place with your thumbs. If there is resistance make sure the hinges are lined up correctly and don't force it down and you can easily snap the hinge if it's caught up on something.
3. Once the back cover is securely in place and flush with the antenna band, replace the two screws on either side of the dock connector using your security screwdriver.

And... done!

Once you've got your iPhone 4S completely reassembled you can go ahead and power it on again. If all went well you should see your iPhone 4S register on the cellular network. Place a test call and make sure that service is restored to normal. Another good way to check is compare bars with another iPhone to make sure the bars look similar to each other. If they do, success!

Did the Samsung Galaxy S3 really outsell Apple's iPhone 4S in Q3 2012? A bunch of technology blogs linked to a press release that claimed it did, so it must be true, right? The press release was put out by the impressively named Strategy Analytics and headlined Samsung Galaxy S3 Becomes World's Best-Selling Smartphone Model in Q3 2012, so they can no doubt back up that claim, right? Well, wait, what did the lede say?

And what was senior analyst from Strategy Analytics, Neil Shah, quoted as saying?

Hang on, the quote doesn't match the headline and lede there, does it? Why use "selling" in the headline and lede, and "shipping" in the quote? Which is it? Why use "selling" at all if they're talking about "shipping", or vice versa? What does "selling" mean? What does "shipping" mean? Are they counting only devices actually sold to customers or devices stuffed into channels, sitting on shelves, or dumped into return bins?

How did they get numbers for the Galaxy S3 when Samsung doesn't disclose device-specific sales numbers in their quarterly financials? Did they take Samsung's recent press release, which claimed 30-million sold from May to October, divide by 5 and multiply by 3 to get 18? Did they assume no change in sales acceleration occurred at all during that period?

How did they get numbers for the iPhone 4S when Apple, who does disclose iPhone sales numbers, doesn't break them down by model? Did they take Apple's 26.9 million July to September iPhone sales number, shift it a month forward, and... um... ah...?

Does it matter that the Galaxy S3 is actually two nearly identical looking, but internally different phones that use completely different processor architectures -- the Samsung Exynos 4 Quad sold internationally, and the Qualcomm Snapdragon S4 sold in North America and Japan -- and are simply sold under the same brand name?

The iPhone 4 and iPhone 4S are also nearly identical looking phones that have different processor architectures, should they be considered together for this report? Is an "S" more of a differentiator than an "International" or "North American"?

Why even put out a press release on a metrics report that so conflates and confounds the very metrics it purports to deliver that the headline and lede can't even be supported by the contents? Why re-blog that press release without questioning why the headline and lede don't match the content of the release?

And if the Galaxy S3 really did outsell the iPhone 4S in Q3, 2012, why not give Samsung, Apple, investors, and consumers something that answers more questions than it raises?

A DIY repair isn't too terribly difficult and will cost you far less than a new iPhone. Follow along and we'll help you replace the vibrator assembly and keep your iPhone 4S going strong for even longer.

Disclaimer: As with any repair, iMore can not be held responsible for any damage you may do to your device. It's also worth considering that opening up your device to perform any repair or modification can and will void your Apple warranty. If you don't feel comfortable opening your device, don't. Use extreme care and caution when performing a repair on any device.

What you'll need to DIY replace an iPhone 4S vibrator assembly

iMore recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like iFixYouri. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• iPhone 4S (any variant)
• Replacement vibrator assembly
• #00 Phillips screwdriver
• Security screwdriver
• Spudger tool
• SIM removal tool or paperclip

Power off your iPhone 4S

Before performing any repair you should always power off your device before opening it up.

Remove the back plate

1. Using your security screwdriver, remove the 2 screws on either side of the dock connector port.

2. Set them aside. They are both the exact same size and length so it does not matter if you mix them up. They are interchangeable.
3. Gently slide up the back plate by applying a bit of pressure along the bottom with your thumbs and sliding upwards.

4. Now lift off the back plate and set it aside.

Remove the battery and grounding clip

1. Using your #00 Phillips screwdriver, remove the two screws holding the battery in place.

2. These screws are different lengths so make sure you remember which one goes where. The one that is slightly larger is the bottom screw.
3. There is a tiny grounding clip underneath the battery clip where the first screw is located. Use your spudger tool or finger to remove it before prying the clip up. Many times it can go flying if you don't remove it first and then you'll have difficulty locating it so it's best to remove it first.

4. Now use your spudger tool and at the bottom of the battery clip, gently pry upwards so the clip pops up.

5. Move to the edge of the iPhone where the volume buttons are located and use your spudger tool to carefully pry up the battery. It is stuck down with a good amount of adhesive so be careful when prying upwards that you don't bend the battery. This is why I do not use the plastic tab that is provided. It typically rips or bends the battery. If one part is resistant move your pry tool a little further down and gently start prying it up in different places taking care not to come too close to the volume button cables towards the top.

6. Once you've gotten the battery pulled out of the iPhone 4S we can move on to inserting the replacement battery.

Remove the top logic board shields

1. Using your #00 Phillips screwdriver, remove the four screws that hold the top silver shield in place and the one screw that holds the small black shield in place.

2. Now use your spudger or pry tool to gently lift the silver shield out of the iPhone.

3. Use your spudger or pry tool to lift the black shield out of the iPhone.

4. Set both shields aside and make sure your screws are organized for reassembly later.

Unclip the top logic board cables & remove the rear-facing camera

Using your spudger or pry tool carefully disconnect all the cables at the top of the logic board. There are seven cables total. One of the cables lies underneath the bottom most cable so you'll need to disconnect the cable over it before folding it back and revealing the shorter cable underneath.

Once you unclip the seven cables, you can lift the rear-facing camera directly out of the iPhone. It was only connected by one cable.

Disconnect the dock connector

1. Using your #00 Phillips screwdriver remove the shield that is covering the dock connector cable towards the middle left of the iPhone. Remember which screw came from where as they are different sizes. Gently lift the shield out of the iPhone and set it aside.

2. Take your spudger tool and gently pry up the dock connector cable and peel it back as shown below. Perform this step with caution as there is adhesive on the underside of the cable. Take care not to rip the cable by pulling up to quickly.

3. Leave the cable in this position and move on to the next section.

Pry up the cellular antenna

1. Using your spudger toolcarefully pry up the round connection for the cellular antenna. It should come up easily so pry up gently.

2. You'll notice that it is wrapped around a metal clip. Gently unwrap it so it's sticking upwards and leave it in this position.

Remove the SIM card and tray

Using a SIM removal tool or a bent paper clip, eject the SIM tray and set it, and the SIM card aside.

Remove the logic board

1. Remove the three #00 Phillips screws at the top, middle, and bottom left of the logic board with your #00 Phillips screwdriver. The top screw has a piece of tape over it you'll need to peel back. After removing it you'll also notice a gold grounding clip underneath it. Make sure you don't lose it as you'll need it for reassembly.

2. There are two more screws holding the logic board in place and you'll need to remove them with your flat head screwdriver. They are located at the top right and bottom of the logic board.
3. Now you should be able to lift the logic board out of the iPhone. Use the area that the rear-facing camera was located and the bottom of the logic board to lift it straight out.

Replace the vibrator assembly

2. The vibrator assembly in the iPhone 4S is only held down with adhesive. Use your pry tool to gently pry it up from the mid-frame of the device. Just take care not to bend it.
3. Next, gently lift the old vibrator assembly out of the device.
4. Your replacement vibrator assembly should come equipped with adhesive on the bottom. Just peel off the backing and carefully replace the vibrator assembly. Be sure you line it up with the screw hold as well as straight along the bottom where the speaker housing will sit.
5. If your new vibrator assembly didn't come with adhesive, any type of thin two sided adhesive will work. You don't need much. Just enough to keep it in place.

Reassemble your iPhone 4S

To reassemble your iPhone 4S you can follow all these steps in reverse order or you can watch our reassembly video guide above. We recommend using both in conjunction with each other. The reassembly video is a complete teardown from the screen down so you won't need to watch the entire thing to complete reassembly of your iPhone 4S. You'll only need to watch from about 5:35 to the end.

And ...done!

Now that you've completely finished reassembling your iPhone 4S you can go ahead and press the power button to turn it back on. Once it completely boots up, test the vibrator function by flipping the vibrate switch. If all went well, you should now have vibrator functionality again. If for some reason it still isn't vibrating, check to make sure the vibrator assembly is lined up correctly.

We hope you don't, but if you do run into issues with this repair, you can check out our DIY and mod forums for answers to many questions.

If your iPhone 4S doesn't want to register a charger is plugged in, the dock connector may be defective or damaged. This can commonly occur from using third party charges that are poor quality or just from old age. If you're out of warranty and aren't yet eligible for an upgrade with your carrier, a new iPhone can be costly. A DIY repair to replace the dock connector will cost you far less and you'll most likely get a lot more life out of your iPhone 4S.

Follow along and we'll walk you through from buying the parts to performing the repair yourself.

Disclaimer: As with any repair, iMore cannot be held responsible for any damage you may do to your device. It's also worth considering that opening up your device to perform any repair or modification can and will void your Apple warranty. If you don't feel comfortable opening your device, don't. Use extreme care and caution when performing a repair on any device.

If you are comfortable with repairing your own device, put your ninja pants on and keep reading!

What you'll need to DIY replace an iPhone 4S dock connector

iMore recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like iFixYouri. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• Replacement dock connector
• 5-point security screwdriver
• Standard #000 Phillips screwdriver
• Spudger tool
• Razor blade
• iSesamo Opening tool (not necessary but awesome for prying up cables and getting under adhesive)

Power off your iPhone 4S

Before performing any repair you should always power off your device before opening it up.

Remove the back plate

1. Using your security screwdriver, remove the 2 screws on either side of the dock connector port.

2. Set them aside. They are both the exact same size and length so it does not matter if you mix them up. They are interchangeable.
3. Gently slide up the back plate by applying a bit of pressure along the bottom with your thumbs and sliding upwards.

4. Now lift off the back plate and set it aside.

Remove the battery and grounding clip

1. Using your #00 Phillips screwdriver, remove the two screws holding the battery in place.

2. These screws are different lengths so make sure you remember which one goes where. The one that is slightly larger is the bottom screw.
3. There is a tiny grounding clip underneath the battery clip where the first screw is located. Use your spudger tool or finger to remove it before prying the clip up. Many times it can go flying if you don't remove it first and then you'll have difficulty locating it so it's best to remove it first.

4. Now use your spudger tool and at the bottom of the battery clip, gently pry upwards so the clip pops up.

5. Move to the edge of the iPhone where the volume buttons are located and use your spudger tool to carefully pry up the battery. It is stuck down with a good amount of adhesive so be careful when prying upwards that you don't bend the battery. This is why I do not use the plastic tab that is provided. It typically rips or bends the battery. If one part is resistant move your pry tool a little further down and gently start prying it up in different places taking care not to come too close to the volume button cables towards the top.

6. Once you've gotten the battery pulled out of the iPhone 4S we can move on to inserting the replacement battery.

Remove the top logic board shields

1. Using your #00 Phillips screwdriver, remove the four screws that hold the top silver shield in place and the one screw that holds the small black shield in place.

2. Now use your spudger or pry tool to gently lift the silver shield out of the iPhone.

3. Use your spudger or pry tool to lift the black shield out of the iPhone.

4. Set both shields aside and make sure your screws are organized for reassembly later.

Unclip the top logic board cables & remove the rear-facing camera

Using your spudger or pry tool carefully disconnect all the cables at the top of the logic board. There are seven cables total. One of the cables lies underneath the bottom most cable so you'll need to disconnect the cable over it before folding it back and revealing the shorter cable underneath.

Once you unclip the seven cables, you can lift the rear-facing camera directly out of the iPhone. It was only connected by one cable.

Disconnect the dock connector

1. Using your #00 Phillips screwdriver remove the shield that is covering the dock connector cable towards the middle left of the iPhone. Remember which screw came from where as they are different sizes. Gently lift the shield out of the iPhone and set it aside.

2. Take your spudger tool and gently pry up the dock connector cable and peel it back as shown below. Perform this step with caution as there is adhesive on the underside of the cable. Take care not to rip the cable by pulling up to quickly.

3. Leave the cable in this position and move on to the next section.

Pry up the cellular antenna

1. Using your spudger toolcarefully pry up the round connection for the cellular antenna. It should come up easily so pry up gently.

2. You'll notice that it is wrapped around a metal clip. Gently unwrap it so it's sticking upwards and leave it in this position.

Remove the SIM card and tray

Using a SIM removal tool or a bent paper clip, eject the SIM tray and set it, and the SIM card aside.

Remove the logic board

1. Remove the three #00 Phillips screws at the top, middle, and bottom left of the logic board with your #00 Phillips screwdriver. The top screw has a piece of tape over it you'll need to peel back. After removing it you'll also notice a gold grounding clip underneath it. Make sure you don't lose it as you'll need it for reassembly.

2. There are two more screws holding the logic board in place and you'll need to remove them with your flat head screwdriver. They are located at the top right and bottom of the logic board.
3. Now you should be able to lift the logic board out of the iPhone. Use the area that the rear-facing camera was located and the bottom of the logic board to lift it straight out.

Remove the loud speaker assembly

1. The loud speaker is held in with two screws that are located on both sides of the assembly. Use your #00 Phillips screwdriver to remove them.

2. The screw on the left hand side of the assembly has a black triangular spacer underneath it. Make sure you don't lose it and set it aside for reassembly.

3. After the two screws are removed you can gently lift the speaker assembly out of the iPhone.

Disconnect the home button

1. The home button fastens into your dock connector so in order to replace the dock connector assembly we'll need to unplug the home button.

2. Use your pry tool to gently unfasten the clip holding the home button cable in place. This cable is very tiny and fragile so handle it with care.

3. Next, gently use your pry tool and your finger to back the cable out of the clip.

This is as far as we'll need to go with the home button. Once it is unhooked, just disregard it while we move on to the dock connector.

Remove the dock connector assembly

There are two screws and some adhesive holding the dock connector into your iPhone 4S. We'll need to remove those in order to pull the assembly out of the phone.

2. Remove the two screws holding the dock connector in place with your #00 screwdriver. There is one to the left and one to the right of the actual docking port. The one to the left may be covered with yellow tape. Just peel it back.

3. The left and right sides of the cable are held down with adhesive. Use your pry tool to pull up the cable and the left part of the assembly. Take care not to pry on the home button cable. Use your pry tool to hold it out of the way when removing the dock connector assembly from your iPhone 4S.

4. Next move over to the actual dock connector cable which is also held in with just adhesive. Gently pry it up.

5. The rubber gasket to the left just plugs right into the frame, so to speak, so just pull it out gently to separate it from the frame.
6. You should now be able to remove the dock connector assembly from your iPhone.
7. Now pull the rubber gasket from two steps ago off the old dock connector assembly as you'll need to place it on the new one.

Install the new dock connector assembly

2. Place the rubber gasket you removed from the old assembly onto the new one and now we're ready to install the new one.
3. Peel the adhesive off the back of the new dock connector. Compare where the adhesive is on the old and new assemblies. Your iPhone 4S has grooves in the frame showing you where to line up the left and right.
4. First line up the actual dock port and sit it flush. Replace the 2 screws on either side to hold it in firmly.
5. Before going any further, go ahead and stick a dock connector cable into the port like you would to charge your iPhone. If it slides in nicely and feels like it should, continue reassembly. If it doesn't, remove the 2 screws and re-align it. It can be a bit tricky to line it up perfectly, but you'll get there.
6. Plug the rubber gasket back into the mid-frame.
7. Now line up the rest of the dock connector cable assembly. Make folds in the cable where necessary. It's helpful to compare how your old cable is folded and mimic those folds on the new one. Be careful not to dislodge or tear the home button cable while re-positioning the dock connector.

Re-connect your home button

1. Use your pry tool and finger to carefully slide your home button cable back in place.
2. Once the cable is positioned where it should be you can go ahead and use your pry tool to push down the clip that fastens it in place.

Reassemble your iPhone 4S

Now that you've got your new dock connector in place, it's time to finish reassembling your iPhone 4S. You can follow all these steps in reverse or use our video guide above as a reference. We recommend using both as they are really meant to compliment each other.

Since our video guide is a full breakdown, you'll only need to watch from about 4:30 on to complete reassembly.

And... done!

Once you've got your iPhone 4S completely put back together, go ahead and turn it on. First thing you'll want to do is make sure it's charging normally and that your bottom mic is functioning properly.

The front-facing FaceTime camera on the iPhone 4S is a pretty important part of how we communicate with the people we care about most. If a day ever comes where you find yourself out of warranty and the front-facing camera stops working or produces bad quality video or images, we can help you DIY repair it yourself. With the right tools and just a little less than an hour of your time, we can get you back up and running in no time.

Follow along and we'll show you how.

Disclaimer: As with any repair, iMore cannot be held responsible for any damage you may do to your device. It's also worth considering that opening up your device to perform any repair or modification can and will void your Apple warranty. If you don't feel comfortable opening your device, don't. Use extreme care and caution when performing a repair on any device.

What you'll need to DIY replace an iPhone 4S front facing camera

iMore recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like iFixYouri. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• iPhone 4S (any variant)
• Replacement front facing camera
• #00 Phillips screwdriver
• Security screwdriver
• Spudger tool
• SIM removal tool or paperclip

Power off your iPhone 4S

Before performing any repair you should always power off your device before opening it up.

Remove the back plate

1. Using your security screwdriver, remove the 2 screws on either side of the dock connector port.

2. Set them aside. They are both the exact same size and length so it does not matter if you mix them up. They are interchangeable.
3. Gently slide up the back plate by applying a bit of pressure along the bottom with your thumbs and sliding upwards.

4. Now lift off the back plate and set it aside.

Remove the battery and grounding clip

1. Using your #00 Phillips screwdriver, remove the two screws holding the battery in place.

2. These screws are different lengths so make sure you remember which one goes where. The one that is slightly larger is the bottom screw.
3. There is a tiny grounding clip underneath the battery clip where the first screw is located. Use your spudger tool or finger to remove it before prying the clip up. Many times it can go flying if you don't remove it first and then you'll have difficulty locating it so it's best to remove it first.

4. Now use your spudger tool and at the bottom of the battery clip, gently pry upwards so the clip pops up.

5. Move to the edge of the iPhone where the volume buttons are located and use your spudger tool to carefully pry up the battery. It is stuck down with a good amount of adhesive so be careful when prying upwards that you don't bend the battery. This is why I do not use the plastic tab that is provided. It typically rips or bends the battery. If one part is resistant move your pry tool a little further down and gently start prying it up in different places taking care not to come too close to the volume button cables towards the top.

6. Once you've gotten the battery pulled out of the iPhone 4S we can move on.

Remove the top logic board shields

1. Using your #00 Phillips screwdriver, remove the four screws that hold the top silver shield in place and the one screw that holds the small black shield in place.

2. Now use your spudger or pry tool to gently lift the silver shield out of the iPhone.

3. Use your spudger or pry tool to lift the black shield out of the iPhone.

4. Set both shields aside and make sure your screws are organized for reassembly later.

Unclip the top logic board cables & remove the rear-facing camera

Using your spudger or pry tool carefully disconnect all the cables at the top of the logic board. There are seven cables total. One of the cables lies underneath the bottom most cable so you'll need to disconnect the cable over it before folding it back and revealing the shorter cable underneath.

Once you unclip the seven cables, you can lift the rear-facing camera directly out of the iPhone. It was only connected by one cable.

Disconnect the dock connector

1. Using your #00 Phillips screwdriver remove the shield that is covering the dock connector cable towards the middle left of the iPhone. Remember which screw came from where as they are different sizes. Gently lift the shield out of the iPhone and set it aside.

2. Take your spudger tool and gently pry up the dock connector cable and peel it back as shown below. Perform this step with caution as there is adhesive on the underside of the cable. Take care not to rip the cable by pulling up to quickly.

3. Leave the cable in this position and move on to the next section.

Pry up the cellular antenna

1. Using your spudger toolcarefully pry up the round connection for the cellular antenna. It should come up easily so pry up gently.

2. You'll notice that it is wrapped around a metal clip. Gently unwrap it so it's sticking upwards and leave it in this position.

Remove the SIM card and tray

Using a SIM removal tool or a bent paper clip, eject the SIM tray and set it, and the SIM card aside.

Remove the logic board

1. Remove the three #00 Phillips screws at the top, middle, and bottom left of the logic board with your #00 Phillips screwdriver. The top screw has a piece of tape over it you'll need to peel back. After removing it you'll also notice a gold grounding clip underneath it. Make sure you don't lose it as you'll need it for reassembly.

2. There are two more screws holding the logic board in place and you'll need to remove them with your flat head screwdriver. They are located at the top right and bottom of the logic board.
3. Now you should be able to lift the logic board out of the iPhone. Use the area that the rear-facing camera was located and the bottom of the logic board to lift it straight out.

Remove the metal retainer & front facing camera

There is a metal retainer covering the front facing camera. To remove it use your pry tool to gently pull it off. Make sure you don't lose it as you'll need it for reassembly. Now that the metal retainer has been removed you can gently lift the front facing camera out of the iPhone 4S.

Replace the front facing camera & metal retainer

Now replace the front facing camera with the new replacement part. Once it is securely in place you can replace the metal retainer by snapping it back in place.

Reassemble your iPhone 4S

To reassemble your iPhone 4S, you can either follow all these directions in exact reverse order or view our reassembly video guide above which will walk you through how to reassemble it from screen to turning it back on and testing it. For an front facing camera replacement you'll need to watch the video from about 5:30 to the end.

And ...done!

Once you've finished putting your iPhone 4S completely back together you can go ahead and turn it back on. If all went well, you should see the Apple logo and your phone should boot up like normal. Now pop into your camera app and flip the camera around to test the new part. Make sure to test it in daytime and in low light conditions. Even though the front facing camera isn't great at capturing low light, it should at least get the job done decently.

Congrats! Now get to FaceTiming again!

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If you've got an iPhone 4S and you're having issues hearing callers through the earpiece or there is no sound at all, you could have a blown earpiece. If you didn't opt for AppleCare+ and your 1-year warranty is up, a DIY repair isn't too tough and will cost you quite a bit less than a replacement iPhone.

Follow along after the break and we'll walk you through from start to finish.

Disclaimer: As with any repair, iMore can not be held responsible for any damage you may do to your device. It's also worth considering that opening up your device to perform any repair or modification can and will void your Apple warranty. If you don't feel comfortable opening your device, don't. Use extreme care and caution when performing a repair on any device.

If you are comfortable with repairing your own device, put your ninja pants on and keep reading!

What you'll need to DIY replace a blown earpiece

iMore recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like iFixYouri. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• Replacement earpiece
• 5-point security screwdriver
• Standard #000 Phillips screwdriver
• Spudger tool
• Razor blade
• iSesamo Opening tool (not necessary but awesome for prying up cables and getting under adhesive)

Video walkthrough

Power off your iPhone 4S

Before performing any repair you should always power off your device before opening it up.

Remove the back plate

1. Using your security screwdriver, remove the 2 screws on either side of the dock connector port.

2. Set them aside. They are both the exact same size and length so it does not matter if you mix them up. They are interchangeable.
3. Gently slide up the back plate by applying a bit of pressure along the bottom with your thumbs and sliding upwards.

4. Now lift off the back plate and set it aside.

Remove the battery and grounding clip

1. Using your #00 Phillips screwdriver, remove the two screws holding the battery in place.

2. These screws are different lengths so make sure you remember which one goes where. The one that is slightly larger is the bottom screw.
3. There is a tiny grounding clip underneath the battery clip where the first screw is located. Use your spudger tool or finger to remove it before prying the clip up. Many times it can go flying if you don't remove it first and then you'll have difficulty locating it so it's best to remove it first.

4. Now use your spudger tool and at the bottom of the battery clip, gently pry upwards so the clip pops up.

5. Move to the edge of the iPhone where the volume buttons are located and use your spudger tool to carefully pry up the battery. It is stuck down with a good amount of adhesive so be careful when prying upwards that you don't bend the battery. This is why I do not use the plastic tab that is provided. It typically rips or bends the battery. If one part is resistant move your pry tool a little further down and gently start prying it up in different places taking care not to come too close to the volume button cables towards the top.

6. Once you've gotten the battery pulled out of the iPhone 4S we can move on to inserting the replacement battery.

Remove the top logic board shields

1. Using your #00 Phillips screwdriver, remove the four screws that hold the top silver shield in place and the one screw that holds the small black shield in place.

2. Now use your spudger or pry tool to gently lift the silver shield out of the iPhone.

3. Use your spudger or pry tool to lift the black shield out of the iPhone.

4. Set both shields aside and make sure your screws are organized for reassembly later.

Unclip the top logic board cables & remove the rear-facing camera

Using your spudger or pry tool carefully disconnect all the cables at the top of the logic board. There are seven cables total. One of the cables lies underneath the bottom most cable so you'll need to disconnect the cable over it before folding it back and revealing the shorter cable underneath.

Once you unclip the seven cables, you can lift the rear-facing camera directly out of the iPhone. It was only connected by one cable.

Disconnect the dock connector

1. Using your #00 Phillips screwdriver remove the shield that is covering the dock connector cable towards the middle left of the iPhone. Remember which screw came from where as they are different sizes. Gently lift the shield out of the iPhone and set it aside.

2. Take your spudger tool and gently pry up the dock connector cable and peel it back as shown below. Perform this step with caution as there is adhesive on the underside of the cable. Take care not to rip the cable by pulling up to quickly.

3. Leave the cable in this position and move on to the next section.

Pry up the cellular antenna

1. Using your spudger toolcarefully pry up the round connection for the cellular antenna. It should come up easily so pry up gently.

2. You'll notice that it is wrapped around a metal clip. Gently unwrap it so it's sticking upwards and leave it in this position.

Remove the SIM card and tray

Using a SIM removal tool or a bent paper clip, eject the SIM tray and set it, and the SIM card aside.

Remove the logic board

1. Remove the three #00 Phillips screws at the top, middle, and bottom left of the logic board with your #00 Phillips screwdriver. The top screw has a piece of tape over it you'll need to peel back. After removing it you'll also notice a gold grounding clip underneath it. Make sure you don't lose it as you'll need it for reassembly.

2. There are two more screws holding the logic board in place and you'll need to remove them with your flat head screwdriver. They are located at the top right and bottom of the logic board.
3. Now you should be able to lift the logic board out of the iPhone. Use the area that the rear-facing camera was located and the bottom of the logic board to lift it straight out.

Remove the bad earpiece assembly

1. Carefully use your pry tool to pull up the earpiece assembly from the midframe. It is held in with a foam type of adhesive.

2. Once you've removed the earpiece assembly we can work on installing the replacement.

Install the new earpiece assembly

1. The new earpiece assembly should come with adhesive and foam already installed. Just peel the backing off of the adhesive.
2. Place the earpiece assembly carefully into the iPhone making sure you're placing it the correct way so the prongs are pointing in the right direction.
3. Gently push down on the earpiece to make sure that the adhesive has attached on the underside.

Reassemble your iPhone 4S

To reassemble your iPhone 4S, you can either follow all these directions in exact reverse order or view our reassembly video guide above which will walk you through how to reassemble it from screen to turning it back on and testing it. For an earpiece replacement you'll need to watch the video from about 5:30 to the end.

And ...done!

Once you've finished reassembling your iPhone 4S you can go ahead and push the power button to turn it on. If all went well your iPhone should boot up and show the Apple logo. Unlock your iPhone and place a test call to make sure the earpiece is now functioning correctly.

While a screen repair isn't the easiest repair to perform, it's definitely doable with the right parts and tools. And we'll walk you through it every step of the way.

Disclaimer: As with any repair, iMore can not be held responsible for any damage you may do to your device. It's also worth considering that opening up your device to perform any repair or modification can and will void your Apple warranty. If you don't feel comfortable opening your device, don't. Use extreme care and caution when performing a repair on any device.

What you'll need to DIY replace a broken iPhone 4S screen

iMore recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like iFixYouri. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• iPhone 4S (any variant)
• Replacement digitizer and LCD assembly
• 5-point security screwdriver
• Standard #000 Phillips screwdriver
• Spudger tool
• Razor blade
• iSesamo Opening tool (not necessary but awesome for prying up cables and getting under adhesive)

Power off your iPhone 4S

Before performing any repair you should always power off your device before opening it up.

Remove the back plate

1. Using your security screwdriver, remove the 2 screws on either side of the dock connector port.

2. Set them aside. They are both the exact same size and length so it does not matter if you mix them up. They are interchangeable.
3. Gently slide up the back plate by applying a bit of pressure along the bottom with your thumbs and sliding upwards.

4. Now lift off the back plate and set it aside.

Remove the battery and grounding clip

1. Using your #00 Phillips screwdriver, remove the two screws holding the battery in place.

2. These screws are different lengths so make sure you remember which one goes where. The one that is slightly larger is the bottom screw.
3. There is a tiny grounding clip underneath the battery clip where the first screw is located. Use your spudger tool or finger to remove it before prying the clip up. Many times it can go flying if you don't remove it first and then you'll have difficulty locating it so it's best to remove it first.

4. Now use your spudger tool and at the bottom of the battery clip, gently pry upwards so the clip pops up.

5. Move to the edge of the iPhone where the volume buttons are located and use your spudger tool to carefully pry up the battery. It is stuck down with a good amount of adhesive so be careful when prying upwards that you don't bend the battery. This is why I do not use the plastic tab that is provided. It typically rips or bends the battery. If one part is resistant move your pry tool a little further down and gently start prying it up in different places taking care not to come too close to the volume button cables towards the top.

6. Once you've gotten the battery pulled out of the iPhone 4S we can move on to inserting the replacement battery.

Remove the top logic board shields

1. Using your #00 Phillips screwdriver, remove the four screws that hold the top silver shield in place and the one screw that holds the small black shield in place.

2. Now use your spudger or pry tool to gently lift the silver shield out of the iPhone.

3. Use your spudger or pry tool to lift the black shield out of the iPhone.

4. Set both shields aside and make sure your screws are organized for reassembly later.

Unclip the top logic board cables & remove the rear-facing camera

Using your spudger or pry tool carefully disconnect all the cables at the top of the logic board. There are seven cables total. One of the cables lies underneath the bottom most cable so you'll need to disconnect the cable over it before folding it back and revealing the shorter cable underneath.

Once you unclip the seven cables, you can lift the rear-facing camera directly out of the iPhone. It was only connected by one cable.

Disconnect the dock connector

1. Using your #00 Phillips screwdriver remove the shield that is covering the dock connector cable towards the middle left of the iPhone. Remember which screw came from where as they are different sizes. Gently lift the shield out of the iPhone and set it aside.

2. Take your spudger tool and gently pry up the dock connector cable and peel it back as shown below. Perform this step with caution as there is adhesive on the underside of the cable. Take care not to rip the cable by pulling up to quickly.

3. Leave the cable in this position and move on to the next section.

Pry up the cellular antenna

1. Using your spudger toolcarefully pry up the round connection for the cellular antenna. It should come up easily so pry up gently.

2. You'll notice that it is wrapped around a metal clip. Gently unwrap it so it's sticking upwards and leave it in this position.

Remove the SIM card and tray

Using a SIM removal tool or a bent paper clip, eject the SIM tray and set it, and the SIM card aside.

Remove the logic board

1. Remove the three #00 Phillips screws at the top, middle, and bottom left of the logic board with your #00 Phillips screwdriver. The top screw has a piece of tape over it you'll need to peel back. After removing it you'll also notice a gold grounding clip underneath it. Make sure you don't lose it as you'll need it for reassembly.

2. There are two more screws holding the logic board in place and you'll need to remove them with your flat head screwdriver. They are located at the top right and bottom of the logic board.
3. Now you should be able to lift the logic board out of the iPhone. Use the area that the rear-facing camera was located and the bottom of the logic board to lift it straight out.

Remove the loud speaker assembly

1. The loud speaker is held in with two screws that are located on both sides of the assembly. Use your #00 Phillips screwdriver to remove them.

2. The screw on the left hand side of the assembly has a black triangular spacer underneath it. Make sure you don't lose it and set it aside for reassembly.

3. After the two screws are removed you can gently lift the speaker assembly out of the iPhone.

Remove the vibrator assembly

The vibrator assembly is only held down with a bit of adhesive. Use your pry tool or metal spatula tool in order to loosen the adhesive and remove the vibrator assembly. Just make sure you are careful not to bend it.

Remove the digitizer and LCD assembly

For this section, we highly recommend watching the teardown video above as it will show you the technique for removing the display that will best compliment the written steps much better than pictures can.

1. Hold the iPhone so the screen is facing you and insert your pry tool or metal spatula into the top left corner and slowly start breaking the adhesive underneath the display by moving your tool gently back and forth.
2. Once the top left is free, move over to the top right corner and repeat.
3. After the top of the assembly is free, move towards the bottom on either side of the Home button and repeat the same process.
4. Once all the adhesive is broken, carefully pull the front assembly off the iPhone taking care to make sure the digitizer and LCD cables don't get caught up in the frame.

Transfer the Home button, speaker mesh, & camera hold to the new digitizer & LCD assembly

If the assembly you ordered did not come with a Home button, camera hold, or speaker assembly already attached, you'll need to remove those pieces and place them onto the new assembly.

The Home button is only held on with a rubber gasket with a bit of adhesive. Carefully pry it up and transfer it. The camera hold and speaker mesh are the same and can easily be transferred as well. Use a bit of double sided adhesive if you need to.

Reassemble your iPhone 4S

To reassemble your iPhone 4S, you can either follow all these directions in exact reverse order or view our reassembly video guide above which will walk you through how to reassemble it from screen to turning it back on and testing it.

And ...done!

Now that you've completely reassembled your iPhone 4S you can go ahead and hold down the power button in order to turn it back on. After it boots up, test the new assembly by dialing some numbers, using the keyboard, and looking for dead pixels. Then place a test call, check vibrator functionality, and do an all-around test to make sure all of the components you had to remove and replace are in good working order.

If everything is back in working order, pat yourself on the back. This isn't an easy repair to perform and if you were successful, you've now unlocked the ninja DIY'er achievement!

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For some, simply knowing that the new iPhone 5 is twice as fast as the last iPhone is enough. But some of us want numbers. We want to know how much faster. Sure, Apple typically brings experience to a spec fight, but it's the specs that drive the experience. It's the engine in the meticulously appointed car. It's the stats behind the championship team. It's the science behind the art.

So with that in mind we ran the iPhone 5 through a whole battery of benchmarks, and to give it some context we put it up head to head, device to device against the iPhone 4S, iPad 3, and added in scores for the Samsung Galaxy S3 and a sampling of other, competing phones like the HTC One X, the Nokia Lumia 900, and the BlackBerry 10 Developer Alpha.

Benchmarking environment

Pulling a device out of the box and running benchmarks is fine, but it doesn't necessarily give real world results. Odds are the first thing you'll do is load up your iPhone 5 with the usual suspects - apps, games, contacts, calendars, reminders, music, video, etc..

So for this test I restored an iCloud backup to my iPhone 5 that's already on my iPad 3 and iPhone 4S so they're both loaded with tons of the same data. It seems a little more practical than comparing it straight out of the box. All devices were also running the iOS 6 public release candidate.

As a preface, the only thing I did before performing any of these benchmarks was close out all apps from the multitasking tray. At the time either the benchmarking app was the only thing running or Safari in order to obtain the benchmarks.

The Android, Windows Phone, and Blackberry 10 results were not performed by us. They are averages from each respective benchmarking site or verified data from on of our cross-platform sites - Android Central, wpcentral, or Crackberry.

Geekbench

The iPhone 4S uses an Apple A5 system-on-a-chip (SoC), which combines a dual-core ARM Cortex A9 processor clocked at 800MHz with a dual-core PowerVR SGX543MP2 graphics chip and 512MB of RAM. The iPad 3 ups the game with an A5X SoC with the same CPU clocked at 1GHz, a quad-core PowerVR SGX543MP4 graphics chip, and 1GB of RAM.

For the iPhone 5, instead of licensing the next-generation ARM design, the A15, Apple custom-built their own Apple A6 SoC based on the ARM instruction set. It's a dual-core ARMv7 processor reportedly clocked around 1.25GHz along with a triple-core SGX 543MP3 and 1GHz of RAM.

To put all this into perspective, we performed a hard reboot on each device, killed all running apps, and then ran tests using Geekbench 2 for iOS. Now Geekbench isn't a great comparison tool -- writing something that tests CocoaTouch apps on iOS, JVM apps on Google, and other platforms in a consistent way is nearly impossible. How fast Infinity Blade 2 launches, or the App Store loads up its interface, or the camera takes to shoot a picture is a better indicator of day-to-day performance. However, it's the tool we have and the number everyone always asks for, so we're running it.

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Geekbench looks at all kinds of information across the entire system, including integer, floating point, memory, and stream performance.Higher numbers are better.

The iPhone 5 scored between 1500 and 1650 each time we ran the rest. The average of 5 consecutive tests was 1615.

After 5 consecutive tests, the average was around 635. That puts the iPhone 4S far lower on the Geekbench scale than the iPhone 5.

Our average result on Geekbench for the iPad 3 was around 750 after 5 consecutive tests.

The A5X processor obviously performs significantly better than the iPhone 4S' standard A5 but when it comes to the A6, the iPhone 5 wins each and every time.

If you're wondering how the iPhone 5 stacks up against other devices that have been benchmarked using Geekbench, here are some reference numbers for popular Android devices.

• Samsung Galaxy S III LTE - 1582
• Samsung Galaxy S III (North America) - 1429
• HTC One X - 1530

And just for fun:

• MacBook Air (11-inch Mid 2012) - 6866
• Power Mac G5 (June 2004) - 1580

Sunspider

Sunspider measures Javascript performance in the web browser. It includes real-world situations like encryption and text manipulation and measures response time in milliseconds for each test. After running each test 5 times, Sunspider gives an average number of time (in milliseconds). Like Geekbench, Sunspider can be a mixed bag. Some browsers include hacks designed just to do better on Sunspider. How fast iMore or the New York Times or Facebook loads on your phone is much better indicator. But again, it's a number people want to hear, so hear it it.

Lower numbers are better.

I ran Sunspider on my iPhone 5 three times and each time I ended up around the 915 to 920 ms mark. While running the test I had no other app open on the device other than the native Safari browser.

Just like the iPhone 5, we ran the rest three times on the iPhone 4S will nothing open but Safari and after another hard reboot. All three tests resulted in a time of around 1800 ms.

When it comes to rendering Javascript, it's quite obvious the iPhone 5 can process it almost twice as fast as the iPhone 4S can.

The iPad 3 faired better than the iPhone 4S with an average score of around 1450 ms. It isn't a huge difference when it comes to rendering Javascript and probably not one that many users would even notice.

When compared to the iPhone 5, however, the A5X chipset can't hold its own against the A6. It's obvious the iPhone 5 is an all around faster device when it comes to system and rendering benchmarks.

Here's some average benchmarks for other popular devices on the market and how they score with Sunspider on average. Remember, the lower the number the better.

• Samsung Galaxy S III LTE - 1442
• HTC One X - 1650
• Nokia Lumia 900 - 6800

HTML5Test.com

HTML5Test.com measures how well a browser supports and renders HTML5 content. While it isn't as in-depth as tests like Sunspider and Geekbench, it's still worth taking a look at if only to see how much companies like Apple, Google, Microsoft and RIM prioritize HTML5 compliance.

Considering the iPhone 5, iPhone 4S, and iPad 3 all run the same version of iOS and support the same native Safari browser within it, all three devices scored a total of 360 points plus 9 bonus points. HTML5Test.com uses a 500 point scale.

Here's how a couple other devices stacked up when it came to HTML5 compatibility and support.

• Blackberry 10 - 447 plus 10 bonus points
• Android 4.x - 371 plus 11 bonus points
• iOS 5.1 - 324 plus 9 bonus points
• Windows Phone 8 - 300 plus 6 bonus points

The bottom line

Numbers are just numbers. Specs are just specs. They're part of the conversation, but they're not the only parts. Many Android phones seem to dwarf the iPhone when it comes to raw numbers and specs, but when real software runs on real hardware in the real world, almost all phone on all platform are doing amazingly well these days.

Android has a huge advantage in that new handsets hit the market far more often, and there's always a bigger, better Android flagship device on the horizon. Apple updates the iPhone about once a year. The month that a new iPhone is released, it will be a top contender for most powerful smartphone in the world. As the months go by, however, Samsung or HTC or someone else might easily put out an even more powerful monster.

Apple's advantage is in having that one phone a year, and in integrating the software and hardware together in such a way as its performance isn't merely about specs.

Right now Apple gets to enjoy a moment on top of the spec mountain, but it will likely be fleeting. What Apple does with those specs won't be, not with iOS 6, iOS 6.1, and other software versions to come.

One of the anticipated features of the iPhone 5 was its new camera. Now, even though Apple didn't boast too much about how much better the camera is, they did say it has a new sensor with better HDR and low-light capabilities. They also managed to cram all of that glass into a body that's 18% thinner than the previous iPhone. Lenses like depth, so getting even the same quality out of a camera 18% thinner is an impressive feat of engineering. Despite all this, many people, myself included, were still expecting noticeable improvements to the iPhone 5's camera and in my review of the iPhone 5's camera, I repeatedly mentioned that the colors and vibrancy of the photos were a huge improvement over the iPhone 4S -- but was I right?

If you follow my iPhone photography column, you know I take a lot of photos with my iPhone. A lot. When I was performing my tests by taking identical photos with the iPhone 5 and iPhone 4S, I was consistently wowed by the improvements of the iPhone 5 over the iPhone 4S. Occasionally, I'd take photos that didn't have much of a difference, but for the most part, the iPhone 5 blew the iPhone 4S out of the water. Then I started preparing this article.

Photo after photo proved me wrong. Sure, there are differences between the iPhone 5 and iPhone 4S photos, but very minor differences. Do the iPhone 5 photos have better color? Yes. Are the iPhone 5 photos more vibrant? Yes. Will the average untrained eye be able to tell the difference if shown the photos immediately after each other but not side-by-side? No. In fact, many people may not even be able to tell the difference between photos that are side-by-side.

This really bothered me. I was so convinced that the iPhone 5's camera was far superior to the iPhone 4S. Then I remembered this bit from Apple's website regarding the iPhone 5's display:

So it's not that the iPhone 5 takes much better photos, it's that the iPhone 5 has a much better display. Here's a photo that shows the iPhone 4S display on the left and the iPhone 5 display on the right.

Incredible! (The photo displayed on the screens was taken with an iPhone 4S.)

Now, let's finally take a look at some side-by-side comparisons of photos taken with the iPhone 4S and iPhone 5 cameras. For each comparison, the photo on the left was taken with an iPhone 4S and the photo on the right was taken with an iPhone 5.

HDR was one of the areas that I was expecting some improvement since Apple claimed better HDR capability, but in the photos I took during my tests, like the one above, the differences were hardly noticeable.

Something that really stands out to me with these low-light photos is that the iPhone 4S photos are much warmer. I tend to prefer warmer tones, but not in this case. The iPhone 5 photos look more realistic to me, particularly with the candle. In the photo of the candle taken with the iPhone 4S, you can barely even tell that it's green, but the iPhone 5 shows that off very well. So it seems that the iPhone 5's camera does a better job at preserving colors in low-light scenarios.

These next photos were taken with the front-facing cameras of the iPhone 4S and iPhone 5.

It may be hard to tell in the smaller versions displayed above, but the quality of the iPhone 5's front-facing camera is actually much better than the iPhone 4S. You can also see the difference in the colors produced by the two cameras in the ocean and sky.

Now let's take a look at a couple panorama photos. This first one was taken with the iPhone 4S.

And here's the iPhone 5's version of the same pano.

Lastly, here's one more panorama comparison. The first one was taken with an iPhone 4S and the second one was taken with an iPhone 5.

In the photos above, you can see that the iPhone 4S camera did catch some lens flare, but I can't say for certain that the angle of the camera to the sun was exactly the same for each pano. So it's very possible that the flare is due to user error.

The bottom line

As you can see, there isn't that big of a difference between the cameras on the iPhone 4S and iPhone 5. There is improvements to the iPhone 5's camera, but if you were wondering if you should upgrade because of the camera, the answer is definitely no. However, if you want a thinner phone that still takes great photos, if you want a better screen that gives a more accurate representation of your photos, if you want the ability to take photos while shooting video, then taken together, the answer could very well change to yes. In fact, if taking and enjoying photos with your iPhone is one of your primary passions -- if you consider yourself an "iPhoneographer" -- the display alone is worth the upgrade to the iPhone 5.

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If you've got an iPhone 4S and the loud speaker seems to be malfunctioning, and you no longer have AppleCare or insurance to cover it, a DIY repair isn't too difficult. Symtoms of a bad loud speaker assembly can range from distorted sound when playing music or using speakerphone to no sound at all. In rare instances, a bad loud speaker can also cause people to not be able to hear you when you've got speakerphone activated.

If you're experiencing any of these symptoms, continue on and we'll walk you through how to replace it yourself.

Disclaimer: As with any repair, iMore cannot be held responsible for any damage you may do to your device. It's also worth considering that opening up your device to perform any repair or modification can and will void your Apple warranty. If you don't feel comfortable opening your device, don't. Use extreme care and caution when performing a repair on any device.

What you'll need to DIY replace an iPhone 4S loud speaker

iMore recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like iFixYouri. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• iPhone 4S (any variant)
• Replacement loud speaker
• #00 Phillips screwdriver
• Security screwdriver
• Spudger tool

Power off your iPhone 4S

Before performing any repair you should always power off your device before opening it up.

Remove the back plate

1. Using your security screwdriver, remove the 2 screws on either side of the dock connector port.

2. Set them aside. They are both the exact same size and length so it does not matter if you mix them up. They are interchangeable.
3. Gently slide up the back plate by applying a bit of pressure along the bottom with your thumbs and sliding upwards.

4. Now lift off the back plate and set it aside.

Remove the battery and grounding clip

1. Using your #00 Phillips screwdriver, remove the two screws holding the battery in place.

2. These screws are different lengths so make sure you remember which one goes where. The one that is slightly larger is the bottom screw.
3. There is a tiny grounding clip underneath the battery clip where the first screw is located. Use your spudger tool or finger to remove it before prying the clip up. Many times it can go flying if you don't remove it first and then you'll have difficulty locating it so it's best to remove it first.

4. Now use your spudger tool and at the bottom of the battery clip, gently pry upwards so the clip pops up.

5. Move to the edge of the iPhone where the volume buttons are located and use your spudger tool to carefully pry up the battery. It is stuck down with a good amount of adhesive so be careful when prying upwards that you don't bend the battery. This is why I do not use the plastic tab that is provided. It typically rips or bends the battery. If one part is resistant move your pry tool a little further down and gently start prying it up in different places taking care not to come too close to the volume button cables towards the top.

6. Once you've gotten the battery pulled out of the iPhone 4S we can move on to inserting the replacement battery.

Pry up the dock connector cable

1. Using your #00 Phillips screwdriver remove the shield that is covering the dock connector cable towards the middle left of the iPhone. Remember which screw came from where as they are different sizes. Gently lift the shield out of the iPhone and set it aside.

2. Take your spudger tool and gently pry up the dock connector cable and peel it back as shown below. Perform this step with caution as there is adhesive on the underside of the cable. Take care not to rip the cable by pulling up to quickly.

3. Leave the cable in this position and move on to the next section.

Pry up the cellular antenna

1. Using your spudger toolcarefully pry up the round connection for the cellular antenna. It should come up easily so pry up gently.

2. You'll notice that it is wrapped around a metal clip. Gently unwrap it so it's sticking upwards and leave it in this position.

Remove the 2 screws on either side of the loud speaker

There are 2 screws holding the speaker assembly in place. We will need to remove these.

1. Using your #00 Phillips screwdriver unscrew the 2 screws on either side of the speaker enclosure as shown. The 2 screws are the exact same size.

2. Where you removed the screw on the left side you'll notice a small black triangular spacer. Be sure not to lose this and set it aside for reassembly.
3. Carefully remove the speaker assembly from the iPhone 4S by lifting upwards.

Remove the cellular antenna

Unless you purchased a speaker assembly that comes complete with a new cellular antenna already attached you'll need to remove it from the old speaker assembly.

1. Remove the two screws that hold the cellular antenna to the speaker assembly using your #00 Phillips screwdriver.

2. The cellular antenna is now only held on with adhesive. Carefully use your spudger or pry tool in order to finish removing the cellular antenna from the speaker enclosure.

3. Now we will place the cellular antenna onto the new assembly.

Place cellular antenna onto the new speaker assembly

1. Carefully align the cellular antenna onto the new assembly the exact same way it was on the old one.
2. Follow the grooves in the edges to know where to position the edges.
3. Replace the 2 screws that you removed from the cellular antenna into the new assembly.

Put the new speaker assembly into the iPhone 4S

1. Carefully place the speaker assembly back into the iPhone 4S. Pay close attention to the 4 teeth that run along the bottom front of the speaker assembly.

2. Make sure all 4 teeth are snug underneath the frame of where the speaker assembly sits. You can tell if they are pushed up or in position fairly easily. If they are pushed up, use your spudger tool to gently push them down underneath the frame.
3. Place the black triangular spacer into place where the left screw will be replaced before screwing back in any screws.
4. Replace the 2 screws on either side of the speaker assembly using your #00 Phillips screwdriver.

Replace the dock connector cable

1. Carefully push back down the dock connector cable with your finger and run over the cable's length to make sure the adhesive is pushed back down.

2. Now replace the shield that covers the cable and the 2 screws on either side.

Replace the battery and grounding clip

1. Pay attention to how the cable is bent on your old battery and if the new one is not crimped in the same fashion put the folds in it before inserting it into the iPhone 4S.

2. Line up the grounding clip you removed previously over the screw hole before snapping down the battery.

3. Snap down the battery in place to the logic board and then position the battery and press down firmly to make sure the adhesive sticks.
4. Replace the two screws you removed in a prior step starting with the top one using your #00 Phillips screwdriver. Make sure the grounding clip stays positioned. Use your other hand to hold it straight while you replace the top screw if you need to.

5. Now replace the bottom screw.

Replace the back plate

1. To replace the back plate line up the hinges around the edges. It should fall right into place. There will be a gap at the bottom.

2. Using slight pressure slide the cover down into place with your thumbs. If there is resistance make sure the hinges are lined up correctly and don't force it down and you can easily snap the hinge if it's caught up on something.
3. Once the back cover is securely in place and flush with the antenna band, replace the two screws on either side of the dock connector using your security screwdriver.

And... done!

Once you've got your iPhone 4S completely reassembled you can go ahead and power it on again. Go ahead and check functions like recording view, talking on speakerphone, and playing music to make sure that your sound is now working the way it should or is no longer distorted. Also make sure to check the cellular signal and connectivity since we did have to remove the Wi-Fi antenna during our repair.

The iPhone 4S has a great camera that can capture amazing photos, so if that camera stops working, it's a pretty big deal. If the damage isn't covered by AppleCare or insurance, it can also be a costly problem. Luckily, a DIY repair is possible, and isn't too difficult. It'll only take you around 20-30 minutes and cost you less than $60, which makes it a great option for anyone out-of-warranty and not considering a new phone.

Follow along and we'll get your iPhone 4S camera back in working order in no time.

Disclaimer: As with any repair, iMore cannot be held responsible for any damage you may do to your device. It's also worth considering that opening up your device to perform any repair or modification can and will void your Apple warranty. If you don't feel comfortable opening your device, don't. Use extreme care and caution when performing a repair on any device.

What you'll need to DIY replace an iPhone 4S rear camera

iMore recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like iFixYouri. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• Replacement camera assembly
• 5-point security screwdriver
• Standard #000 Phillips screwdriver
• Spudger tool
• Razor blade
• iSesamo Opening tool (not necessary but awesome for prying up cables and getting under adhesive)

Power off your iPhone 4S

Before performing any repair you should always power off your device before opening it up.

Remove the back plate

1. Using your security screwdriver, remove the 2 screws on either side of the dock connector port.

2. Set them aside. They are both the exact same size and length so it does not matter if you mix them up. They are interchangeable.
3. Gently slide up the back plate by applying a bit of pressure along the bottom with your thumbs and sliding upwards.

4. Now lift off the back plate and set it aside.

Remove the battery and grounding clip

1. Using your #00 Phillips screwdriver, remove the two screws holding the battery in place.

2. These screws are different lengths so make sure you remember which one goes where. The one that is slightly larger is the bottom screw.
3. There is a tiny grounding clip underneath the battery clip where the first screw is located. Use your spudger tool or finger to remove it before prying the clip up. Many times it can go flying if you don't remove it first and then you'll have difficulty locating it so it's best to remove it first.

4. Now use your spudger tool and at the bottom of the battery clip, gently pry upwards so the clip pops up.

5. Move to the edge of the iPhone where the volume buttons are located and use your spudger tool to carefully pry up the battery. It is stuck down with a good amount of adhesive so be careful when prying upwards that you don't bend the battery. This is why I do not use the plastic tab that is provided. It typically rips or bends the battery. If one part is resistant move your pry tool a little further down and gently start prying it up in different places taking care not to come too close to the volume button cables towards the top.

6. Once you've gotten the battery pulled out of the iPhone 4S we can move on to inserting the replacement battery.

Remove the top logic board shield

The camera cable is protected by the top silver logic board shield. To replace it, we'll need to remove that shield for a few minutes.

1. Remove the 4 screws labeled in the picture below using your #00 Phillips screwdriver making sure you remember which screw came from where as they are all different sizes.

2. Use your spudger tool to carefully pry up the shield. There is a tiny clasp at the bottom of the shield. You'll need to make sure you push the top of the shield down a bit so it slides out. Once it does you can pull the shield out of the iPhone.

3. Set the shield aside for a few minutes.

Replace the rear camera assembly

1. The camera is connected in the upper left hand corner by only one flex cable. Use your spudger tool to gently pry the camera off the logic board.

2. Remove the defective camera assembly from your iPhone 4S.

3. Now position the new camera assembly into the iPhone and snap it down to the logic board.

Replace the top logic board shield

Now that the new camera assembly is secured into place on the logic board, we can go ahead and replace the shield.

1. You will notice that there are little teeth on the left hand bottom side of the shield. These slip into the shield on the left side of the logic board. Line them up and carefully place back down the shield.
2. Make sure the clasp to the right lower side of the logic board is also positioned underneath the cables and into the groove. All the screw holes should also be lined up at this point.

3. Use your #00 Phillips screwdriver to replace the 4 screws you removed previously.

Replace the battery and grounding clip

1. Pay attention to how the cable is bent on your old battery and if the new one is not crimped in the same fashion put the folds in it before inserting it into the iPhone 4S.

2. Line up the grounding clip you removed previously over the screw hole before snapping down the battery.

3. Snap down the battery in place to the logic board and then position the battery and press down firmly to make sure the adhesive sticks.
4. Replace the two screws you removed in a prior step starting with the top one using your #00 Phillips screwdriver. Make sure the grounding clip stays positioned. Use your other hand to hold it straight while you replace the top screw if you need to.

5. Now replace the bottom screw.

Replace the back plate

1. To replace the back plate line up the hinges around the edges. It should fall right into place. There will be a gap at the bottom.

2. Using slight pressure slide the cover down into place with your thumbs. If there is resistance make sure the hinges are lined up correctly and don't force it down and you can easily snap the hinge if it's caught up on something.
3. Once the back cover is securely in place and flush with the antenna band, replace the two screws on either side of the dock connector using your security screwdriver.

And ...done!

That's it. Now that you've finished reassembling your iPhone 4S you can go ahead and power it on. Pop into the camera app and test the new camera to make sure it's functioning correctly. That's all there is to it. Now get back to taking all those amazing pictures.

DIY repairs can help you get lots more life out of your device and prevent having to buy a new iPhone before you absolutely have to. If you're soon to be out of warranty or otherwise not covered for exchange or replacement, or if you're just a DIY type who wants to learn more about the inner workings of your iPhone, we've got you covered.

Disclaimer: As with any repair, iMore cannot be held responsible for any damage you may do to your device. It's also worth considering that opening up your device to perform any repair or modification can and will void your Apple warranty. If you don't feel comfortable opening your device, don't. Use extreme care and caution when performing a repair on any device.

What you'll need to DIY replace an iPhone 4S battery

iMore recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like iFixYouri. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• Replacement battery
• 5-point security screwdriver
• Standard #000 Phillips screwdriver
• Spudger tool
• iSesamo Opening tool (not necessary but awesome for prying up cables and getting under adhesive)

Power off your iPhone 4S

Before performing any repair you should always power off your device before opening it up.

Remove the back plate

1. Using your security screwdriver, remove the 2 screws on either side of the dock connector port.

2. Set them aside. They are both the exact same size and length so it does not matter if you mix them up. They are interchangeable.
3. Gently slide up the back plate by applying a bit of pressure along the bottom with your thumbs and sliding upwards.

4. Now lift off the back plate and set it aside.

Remove the battery and grounding clip

1. Using your #00 Phillips screwdriver, remove the two screws holding the battery in place.

2. These screws are different lengths so make sure you remember which one goes where. The one that is slightly larger is the bottom screw.
3. There is a tiny grounding clip underneath the battery clip where the first screw is located. Use your spudger tool or finger to remove it before prying the clip up. Many times it can go flying if you don't remove it first and then you'll have difficulty locating it so it's best to remove it first.

4. Now use your spudger tool and at the bottom of the battery clip, gently pry upwards so the clip pops up.

5. Move to the edge of the iPhone where the volume buttons are located and use your spudger tool to carefully pry up the battery. It is stuck down with a good amount of adhesive so be careful when prying upwards that you don't bend the battery. This is why I do not use the plastic tab that is provided. It typically rips or bends the battery. If one part is resistant move your pry tool a little further down and gently start prying it up in different places taking care not to come too close to the volume button cables towards the top.

6. Once you've gotten the battery pulled out of the iPhone 4S we can move on to inserting the replacement battery.

Replace the battery and grounding clip

1. Pay attention to how the cable is bent on your old battery and if the new one is not crimped in the same fashion put the folds in it before inserting it into the iPhone 4S.

2. Line up the grounding clip you removed previously over the screw hole before snapping down the battery.

3. Snap down the battery in place to the logic board and then position the battery and press down firmly to make sure the adhesive sticks.
4. Replace the two screws you removed in a prior step starting with the top one using your #00 Phillips screwdriver. Make sure the grounding clip stays positioned. Use your other hand to hold it straight while you replace the top screw if you need to.

5. Now replace the bottom screw.

Replace the back plate

1. To replace the back plate line up the hinges around the edges. It should fall right into place. There will be a gap at the bottom.

2. Using slight pressure slide the cover down into place with your thumbs. If there is resistance make sure the hinges are lined up correctly and don't force it down and you can easily snap the hinge if it's caught up on something.
3. Once the back cover is securely in place and flush with the antenna band, replace the two screws on either side of the dock connector using your security screwdriver.

And ...done!

Now that your iPhone 4S is completely put back together you can turn it back on. If the phone doesn't come on, try plugging it into a wall charger and see if the charging icon comes up. It's quite possible that the battery may need to be charged before use.

If you're still having problems, or you have a question about this repair, let us know in the comments!

More iPhone DIY guides

○ Fix a broken iPhone 7 or 7 Plus ○ Fix a broken iPhone 6s or 6s Plus ○ Fix a broken iPhone SE ○ Fix a broken iPhone 6 or 6 Plus ○ Fix a broken iPhone 5c ○ Fix a broken iPhone 5s ○ Fix a broken iPhone 5 ○ Fix a broken iPhone 4s ○ Fix a broken iPhone 4 (GSM) ○ Fix a broken iPhone 4 (CDMA) ○

A rare Apple iPhone N90 prototype, the code name for the iPhone 4 series, has appeared for sales on eBay with a very strange logo on the back panel. Rather than the usual Apple logo which we all know and love, this prototype has a logo which appears to resemble the Death Star from the Star Wars movies.

The eBay description states that the iPhone 4 prototype has a storage capacity of 32GB. The back panel is not screwed to the shell like the final retail version of the iPhone 4; this prototype uses a back clamp system which has been broken so the back panel falls off very easily.

We have seen a few prototype iPhone models before, but not many that are still operational. This one has had a battery replaced but does still turn on and is fully operational. When we say operational, don’t expect to be able to make and receive calls or upgrade it to iOS 5. It only runs Apple’s test software suite, SwitchBoard.

If you want to get your hands on a piece of unique Apple history, you can make a bid of $4500 or more. If you really want to make sure you aren’t outbid you can contact the seller with an offer of $10,000 and it’s yours. That's if Apple doesn't have it removed first.

Update There is now a video of the iPhone 4 Prototype below.

Source: eBay via 9to5 Mac

If you've got a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4 and the earpiece speaker has suddenly stopped working, or you're getting feedback and you're sure the issue isn't being caused by poor reception, a DIY repair can get it back in working order. Replacing the earpiece will cost you a lot less than an out of warranty replacement and it's not terribly difficult to fix on your own.

Follow along and we'll show you how.

Disclaimer: As with any repair, iMore cannot be held responsible for any damage you may do to your device. It's also worth considering that opening up your device to perform any repair or modification can and will void your Apple warranty. If you don't feel comfortable opening your device, don't. Use extreme care and caution when performing a repair on any device.

What you need for a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4 earpiece replacement

iMore recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like iFixYouri. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• CDMA iPhone 4 (please note there ARE internal differences between the GSM and CDMA models)
• Replacement earpiece assembly

You will also need the following tools:

• #00 Phillips screwdriver
• Pry tool or spudger
• Tweezers
• Security screwdriver (for the 2 dock connector screws)

Power off your iPhone 4

Before performing any repair, always power off your device before removing any screws or parts.

Remove the back

2. First remove the bottom 2 dock connector screws in your iPhone 4. For all CDMA iPhone models you'll need to use the 5 point security screwdriver.

3. To remove the back simply slide the back upwards and lift it off gently.
4. Set the back and 2 dock connector screws aside.

Organize your screws

It's very important to make sure you remember where you are pulling screws from, so place them in an arrangement that you'll understand and remember. I normally lay them out the same way every time I disassemble a device so I remember where they came from and how they go back in. They're all different sizes so trying to figure out where they go if you get them mixed up probably won't be fun.

Remove the battery

2. To remove the battery you'll need to remove the #00 screw holding the battery clip in place. Remove this screw located to the bottom left of the battery.

3. The metal clip on the battery is what clips the battery to the logic board. You'll need to pop this clip up with your plastic pry tool. Simply stick the end of your pry tool underneath the clip and gently pull upwards until it unfastens from the logic board.

4. To remove the battery, I do not recommend using the plastic pull tab. There is quite a bit of adhesive underneath the battery and the tab will normally just rip off or you can bend the battery. Instead, run your pry tool along the right side of the battery and break the adhesive that way. Once the battery is free from the adhesive, you can pull the battery out of the phone. There are no other connectors holding it in.

5. I typically fold the plastic tab over while working on the iPhone 4 to keep it out of the way while I'm disassembling parts. It's not necessary but convenient.

Remove the grounding clip

To the left of where you disconnected the battery you'll see another screw holding in a grounding clip over the antenna. We'll need to remove it.

2. Unscrew the one screw holding the grounding clip in place with your #00 Phillips screwdriver.

3. Gently lift the grounding clip out of the device. It's very tiny as you can see above. Take care not to misplace it or lose it.

Remove the Dock connector shield and disconnect the cable

2. There is a shield held on with two screws covering the dock connector cable. Remove the two screws holding it in place and set the shield and screws aside, remembering where they came from.

3. Next, use your pry tool to pry up the actual dock connector cable. Be careful as there is adhesive holding the cable in place as well. Peel back the adhesive gently to free the cable.

Remove the top logic board shield

2. There are 5 screws holding the logic board shield in place as labeled in the photo above. Remove the 5 screws holding it in place plus screw number 6 off to the right (we'll get to this one in a second). Just be sure to remember which holes they came out of as the screws are different sizes. I keep them arranged in the shape they came out of the logic board with the shield next to it. I find this to be the easiest way to keep them in order.

3. Next you'll need to remove the shield. There is a tiny clip built into the shield holding it in place. (Refer to the photo above.) Grab the shield by the top where the top screw came out and gently lift up and push down. The bottom notch will come out and you should be able to gently lift the shield out of the device.

Remove wifi antenna grounding clip

2. The number 6 screw we removed previously we're now returning to. There is a clip underneath it. Gently use your pry tool to remove it.

3. You'll find a cross head screw underneath it. We'll get back to that in just a minute.

Disconnect 7 cables from the logic board

2. Pop up all the cables labeled in the pictures above by gently lifting them with your pry tool or spudger..

3. Next gently lift the camera out of the device. You'll notice there is a tiny tab that is seated underneath the LCD and digitizer cables to the right.

4. Play close attention to the direction in which the cables pop up. The cable furthest to the right will pop up in the opposite direction of the others.

Remove the logic board

2. There are 5 screws you'll need to remove in order to remove the logic board. Three need to be removed with a flat blade screwdriver (flathead) while the other two will be removed with your #00 Phillips screwdriver.
3. Remove the screws numbered 1-3 in the image above using your flat blade screw driver. Make sure you remember which ones go where as the heads are a bit different.
4. Now remove screws 4 and 5 with your #00 screwdriver. Notice that the screw labeled number 5 will have a tiny gold grounding clip for the camera underneath it. Make sure you don't lose this and save it for re-assembly.

5. You should now be able to remove your logic board. Holding it at the bottom, gently pull it upwards. I use my other hand to lift up at the top where the rear facing camera used to be.

6. Take note that there is a small rubber piece that sits at the top of the logic board. You will need this for re-assembly so make sure it doesn't fall off. If you lose this, you could experience wifi or reception issues.

Remove the bad earpiece assembly

1. Carefully use your pry tool to pull up the earpiece assembly from the midframe. It is held in with a foam type of adhesive.

2. Once you've removed the earpiece assembly we can work on installing the replacement.

Install the new earpiece assembly

1. The new earpiece assembly should come with adhesive and foam already installed. Just peel the backing off of the adhesive.
2. Place the earpiece assembly carefully into the iPhone making sure you're placing it the correct way so the prongs are pointing in the right direction.
3. Gently push down on the earpiece to make sure that the adhesive has attached on the underside.

Reassemble your iPhone 4

To reassemble your Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4 you can either follow these instructions in reverse order or watch our reassembly video above. Since the video covers a complete reassembly you'll only need to watch from around the 4:40 mark on in order to finish putting your iPhone 4 back together.

And ...done!

Now that you've got your iPhone 4 put back together you can power it back on. Place a test call in order to make sure the earpiece is functioning properly again. If it isn't, make sure you've installed it correctly and that the prongs are going in the right direction. If you have and problems still persist, in rare occasions the lower mic in the dock connector or the noise canceling mic at the top can cause issues that make the earpiece not function properly.

If you have a Verizon or Sprint CDMA iPhone 4 that's showing it's age and exhibiting some hardware issues, and you don't have the benefit of AppleCare or insurance, we can help you give it some love and get it back in working order. Whether it's time to replace that problem battery, fix that cracked screen, replace a recessed power button, or get that broken Home button back in working order, iMore will help you get the longest life possible out of your iPhone 4, and walk you step by step through all the major repairs, with detailed instructions, photographs, and links to high quality parts from suppliers we trust.

Not exactly sure what the issue is? Read the descriptions for each repair below and match up the symptoms. Also make sure you check back often and bookmark this page as we'll be updating and adding even more guides on a regular basis.

• How to replace the battery in a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4
• How to replace the back casing on a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4
• How to replace a cracked or broken screen on a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4
• How to replace a stuck or unresponsive Home button in a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4
• How to fix a stuck or broken on/off button in a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4
• How to fix a broken vibrator assembly in a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4
• How to fix a blown earpiece speaker in a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4
• How to replace the loud speaker assembly in a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4
• How to replace the rear camera in a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4
• How to fix cellular reception issues in a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4
• How to replace the dock connector and lower mic in a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4
• How to replace the front facing FaceTime camera in a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4
• How to fix common sound issues with the iPhone 4 and iPhone 4S
• How to choose quality colored parts for your iPhone 4
• How to check for water damage on an iPhone 4

How to replace the battery in a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4

If you're iPhone 4 is going on a few years old and your battery just isn't what it was before, replacing the battery can make a huge difference and possibly prolong the life of your device another year if not longer.

An iPhone 4 battery replacement is a super easy repair to perform and only takes about 10 minutes. It'll also cost you a lot less than shelling out money for a brand new phone, especially if you're out of warranty.

Symptoms of a dead or dying battery can include drastically reduced battery life, random reboots, and sluggishness even after a restore. In rare instances, a completely dead battery may result in an iPhone 4 only powering on when plugged into a charging source and when unplugged, the iPhone will turn off instantly.

• How to replace the battery in a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4

How to replace the back casing on a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4

If you've cracked the back casing on your iPhone 4 or just want to change it out for a different color, an iPhone 4 back replacement is one of the easiest repairs to perform but if you need some help along the way, check out our guide for reference.

• How to replace the back casing on a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4

How to fix a cracked or broken screen on a Sprint or Verizon iPhone 4

Whether you've cracked the glass on your precious iPhone 4 or the touchscreen has stopped responding, a digitizer/LCD replacement will solve the problem in just about an hour or two. It'll also solve any issues with the LCD whether there is discoloration, lines through the display, or no image at all.

This may not be the easiest repair to perform but if you've got some patience and a little technical know-how you should be able to get the job done for a lot cheaper than what a replacement phone out of warranty will cost you.

• How to fix a cracked or broken screen on a Sprint or Verizon iPhone 4

How to replace a stuck or unresponsive Home button in a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4

If your Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4 is having Home button issues, it's possible to replace the flex cable to resolve the issues. If your symptoms include an unresponsive Home button, a single click registering as two or vice versa, or a tacky feeling you probably need to replace the flex cable.

This one isn't a simple repair by any means but if you feel up to the task, you'll spend a ton less cash than you would on a new iPhone.

• How to replace a stuck or unresponsive Home button in a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4

How to fix a stuck or broken on/off button in a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4

Over time, the cable underneath the on/off button in the iPhone 4 can wear down causing the button to become recessed or "unpressable". Symptoms typically range from having to push extremely hard in order for a press to register, no "click" feedback when pushing the button, or the button doesn't respond at all anymore when pushing it.

If you're up for fixing it yourself, you can do so by following our guide.

• How to fix a stuck or broken on/off button in a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4

How to fix a broken vibrator assembly in a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4

If your Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4 has stopped vibrating or the vibrator is providing bad feedback in the form off a rattling noise or other unpleasant sound, you can DIY replace it yourself to resolve the issue.

• How to fix a broken vibrator assembly in a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4

How to fix a blown earpiece assembly in a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4

If your earpiece volume is extremely low, giving a bad feedback noise, or you just can't hear out of it at all, it may be time to replace the earpiece. It's a relatively easy repair to perform and we can walk you through from beginning to end.

• How to fix a blown earpiece assembly in a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4

How to replace the speaker assembly in a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4

If the sound on your Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4 is cutting out when playing music or games, taking a call on speakerphone, or when a system tone clicks in, the loud speaker assembly may be going out. This isn't a hard repair to perform and will cost you a boat load less than an out of warranty replacement or brand new iPhone.

Follow our guide and we'll get you back to working order in no time.

• How to replace the speaker assembly in a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4

How to replace the rear camera in a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4

If you're having image quality issues with the camera in your Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4, it may be time to replace it. One thing to be certain of before proceeding is that the issue is with the actual camera and not the rear housing. The plastic lens that covers your camera is part of the back panel, not the camera itself. Inspect it and make sure it isn't the plastic that is scratched and causing issues. If that is the case, you'll need to perform a back replacement instead.

If there are no blemishes or scratches over the camera lens cover on the rear casing, the actual camera could be the culprit. If that's the case, follow our guide to replace it. These symptoms could range from lines through the camera, poor quality images, or the camera app not opening at all and only showing the black unopened shutter upon launching the Camera app. It's a relatively easy repair and should be doable for most, even beginners.

• How to replace the rear camera in a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4

How to fix cellular reception problems on a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4

If you're experiencing cellular reception issues on your Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4, it may be time to replace the cellular antenna. Symptoms could range from poor call quality to heavily fluctuating bars and dropped calls. If you're experiencing all these issues despite your software being up to date and making calls in an area you know to be good reception wise, it may be time to check out our guide and get that antenna replaced with a new one.

• How to fix cellular antenna reception problems on a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4

How to replace the dock connector and/or lower mic in a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4

If your Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4 won't take a charge, your lower mic isn't working, or you've gotten moisture in the dock and you want to change it out just to be safe, a DIY dock connector replacement can remedy any of these issues.

The lower mic is the part of the phone that controls what other people hear when you're on a call. If people are complaining that you're cutting in and out or can't hear you at all unless you're on speakerphone, the lower mic could very well be the culprit.

If any of these symptoms describe your issues, try a dock connector replacement before ditching the iPhone.

• How to replace the dock connector in a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4

How to fix the front facing FaceTime camera in a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4

If you use FaceTime, Skype, or another video chat client frequently then the front facing camera on your Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4 is probably pretty important to you. Whether it's blacked out or distorted, a DIY replacement costs far less than a new phone and it isn't too hard of a repair to perform on your own.

• How to fix the front facing FaceTime camera in a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4

How to fix common sound issues with the iPhone 4 and iPhone 4S

If you're having issues with your headphone jack or your volume buttons and/or mute switch aren't functioning correctly, replacing the cable that runs to them can fix any issues you may have.

One cable controls the function for the following functions -

• Mute switch
• Volume buttons
• Headphone jack
• How to replace the headphone jack and volume control cable in a GSM/AT&T iPhone 4

How to choose the highest quality colored parts for your iPhone 4

If you're looking into performing a color conversion on your iPhone 4 it's always a good idea to make sure you order high quality parts. Let's face it, eBay and other online resellers have a nasty habit of selling parts that are DOA or issues crop up after a few days. Making sure you use a quality supplier right from the start will save you a lot of headaches.

Apple never made colored parts so you won't find genuine OEM parts anywhere and if anyone claims they are OEM, turn around and run the other way. It doesn't mean there aren't quality parts floating around out there though. Check out our guide of what to look for so you can be prepared before you even place an order.

• How to choose the highest quality colored parts for your iPhone 4

How to check for water damage before purchasing a used iPhone 4

If you're thinking about picking up a used iPhone 4 from eBay, Craigslist, or any other online source, it's always a good idea to make sure the device hasn't seen any previous water damage before actually committing to the purchase.

You can check some sensors externally and a few internally if the seller will allow it. To make sure you're getting the most for your money and you're not buying a non-working iPhone 4, check out our guide before purchasing

• How to check for water damage before purchasing a used iPhone 4

More DIY guides and help

If you've got a GSM iPhone, iPad, iPod touch, or other type of iPhone, we may have guides that can help you fix those as well. If you don't see a guide that can help or can't figure out exactly what the issue is, you can always check out our mod and DIY forums for answers to many questions. If you still can't find what you're looking for, feel free to shoot an e-mail to ally@imore.com with guide suggestions and questions.

• AT&T/GSM iPhone 4: Ultimate DIY repair guide
• All DIY repair guides and how tos

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