Every year we get to see the best photos taken with an iPhone thanks to the iPhone Photography Awards (IPPA) and 2021 is no different. The IPPA released its winners for this year yesterday, and they're all stunning photos. But what's most noticeable is the fact that few of the winners were taken on the latest hardware. In fact, one was taken on an iPhone 5s.

Yes, an iPhone 5s. From 2013. And the resulting image is stunning. You'd definitely have believed me if I'd told you it was taken on an iPhone 12 Pro, that's for sure.

See what I mean?

I find that pretty amazing, really. In fact, very few of the winners were using anything even close to the best iPhone for photography — iPhone 12 Pro Max.

Flicking through the winners we see a few iPhone X devices. An iPhone 7 produced a stunner and some iPhone XR shots look great, too. But let's just remind ourselves of the camera that's in that iPhone 5s, for a moment.

Over to 2013 Rene Ritchie:

Oh, so the humble iPhone 5s actually has the same camera hardware as the iPhone 5. From 2012. That's nine years ago!

We've always known that iPhones have taken great photos but seeing such old cameras doing such great things, when put up against something like iPhone 12 Pro Max, is mesmerizing. Apple surely never expected an iPhone 5s to be winning photography awards in 2021 and I'm sure it'd love iPhone 12 cameras to do the same in 2029. Will they? We'll have to wait nine years to find out — but the fact that's even something we're talking about potentially happening is insane.

But I wouldn't want to bet against it!

What you need to know

• Scientists at the University of Göttingen and Münster University are building cheap microscopes out of old iPhones.
• Old iPhone 5 cameras and LEGO are being turned into inexpensive tools to avoid costly alternatives.

Scientists at the University of Göttingen and Münster University are using old iPhone 5 cameras and LEGO to build cheap high-resolution microscopes in place of expensive lab equipment.

According to a report by The Register, the scientists involved found that costly apparatus was causing people to avoid getting involved in science. They wanted to find a way to combat that – and a new Frankenstein's monster of a device was born.

That high-magnification objective comes in the form of an iPhone 5 camera lens, apparently bought on eBay for a couple of dollars each. The team notes that the iPhone 5 camera models cost between €2 and €4, or $2.40-4.80.

After removing "all the fancy electronics" that aren't needed, the lens is put into its new home and a microscope is born. Now anyone can buy the parts needed – and use the guide the scientists have created – to build a microscope of their own. The guide is available in English, German, Dutch, and Spanish currently but the team says they welcome contributions that could make it available in other languages as well.

Anyone wanting to have a go at building their own microscope can find the instructions on GitHub today. Just don't go taking that new iPhone 12 Pro apart to borrow its camera lens, OK?

These are the best iPhone deals available today, but I'd still suggest heading to eBay if you want to take an iPhone apart!

What you need to know

• The iPhone 5c has been added to the vintage list.
• The phone will still be eligible for technical support at Apple Stores and authorized service providers.
• The Mid 2014 model of the 15-inch MacBook Pro has also been added to the list.

Reported by 9to5Mac, the iPhone 5C has officially become a vintage Apple product. Apple updated its vintage and obsolete product list to add the device, which means that technical support for the iPhone 5c is now limited.

As noted in the report, Apple products are considered vintage if they have not been sold for more than five years. While Apple used to only offer support for these devices in its retail locations, customers can also receive support at authorized service providers as long as components remain available.

The iPhone 5c will become completely obsolete in 2022 when it will no longer receive any kind of technical support. Apple supports its iPhone, iPad, iPod, Mac, and Apple TV for seven years after it stops selling the device.

The iPhone 5c was originally suspected of being added to the vintage and obsolete list back at the beginning of October. A leaked internal memo said that both the iPhone 5c and Mid 2014 model of the 15-inch MacBook Pro would be added to the vintage and obsolete list, which appears to be spot on.

The Mid 2014 model of the 15-inch MacBook Pro will also still be eligible for technical support at Apple Stores and authorized service providers.

What you need to know

• The iPhone 5c and the Mid 2014 15-inch MacBook Pro are hitting the vintage and obsolete list.
• Both devices will be added to the list on October 31.
• MacRumors obtained the information in a leaked internal memo.

Reported by MacRumors, Apple will be adding the iPhone 5c to its list of vintage and obsolete products. It will also be adding the Mid 2014 model of the 15-inch MacBook Pro to the list as well. The outlet says that both devices will be added to the lists officially on October 31 according to a leaked internal memo.

According to the report, both the iPhone 5c and the Mid 2014 model of the 15-inch MacBook Pro will both be eligible to service indefinitely.

The iPhone 5c was the last time that Apple released a plastic iPhone. Released along with the iPhone 5S back in 2013, the iPhone 5c was, for lack of a better description, the iPhone SE before the iPhone SE was actually released in 2016. It was a phone that sacrificed on some newer features to hit a lower price point for the masses. Apple abandoned the idea after sales of the product didn't meet expectations and the company got away from plastics as part of its focus on environmental impact.

The news of the iPhone 5c hitting the vintage and obsolete list comes on the same day that Apple has announced that its "Hi, Speed" event will occur on October 13th where the company is expected to announce its iPhone 12 lineup. There are also rumors that Apple could unveil its long-anticipated AirTags, AirPods Studio, and HomePod mini.

What you need to know

• Apple has sent iPhone 5 users an alert recommending they update iOS to version 10.3.4.
• The July-released software helps older devices maintain accurate location and GPS functionality.
• A report suggests that without it, the iPhone 5 will no longer be able to connect to the internet.

Apple has issued a reminder to iPhone 5 users strongly recommending that they update the software on their devices to iOS 10.3.4.

As reported by 9to5Mac, iPhone 5 users who don't make the jump before November 3 risk not being able to use basic functions on their iPhones such as email, iCloud and the web:

A support document released by Apple confirms the seriousness of the update:

Usually, it's a pretty good idea to keep your iOS devices running the latest software. However, the importance of this particular update cannot be overstated. As Apple notes, the update is essential to allowed continued use of any functions that rely on the correct date/time. This includes web browsing and emails. A note to the support document confirms that all iPhone 5 users should update based on their local time zones. So why don't both of you get to it.

If you're having trouble charging your iPhone 5, it's possible that either liquid came into contact with your charge port, or one of the pins are broken. Other symptoms of a bad dock connector can include iTunes not recognizing your iPhone when it's plugged into the computer. If you're experiencing any of these symptoms and aren't quite ready to fork over the cash for a new iPhone just yet, we can walk you through how to repair your iPhone on your own. Follow along for step by step instructions on replacing the Lightning dock in your iPhone 5!

What you need to DIY repair a broken dock connector in an iPhone 5

You'll need some tools and parts in order to repair your iPhone 5. iMore recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like iFixYouri. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• Replacement dock connector
• Suction cup
• 5-point security screwdriver
• Standard #000 Phillips screwdriver
• Spudger tool
• Razor blade
• iSesamo Opening tool

Step 1: Power off your iPhone 5

Before beginning any repair, always power your iPhone down completely using the Slide to power off option. Easy enough right?

Step 2: Remove the front screen assembly

• To begin, use your security screwdriver to remove the two screws in the bottom of your iPhone 5 that sit on either side of the dock.

• Now place your suction cup above the Home button and gently pry up from the bottom. Take care not to pull the entire screen off as the top of the screen is still attached by several cables. You only want to release the bottom portion.

• Once the screen is free, swing up the display assembly so you can get to the shield that is holding the cables in place.

• Using your ##000 screwdriver to remove the three screws holding the display shield down. Set the shield aside and remember not to mix up the screws.

• Now use your spudger tool to pry up the three cables that attach the display to the board. After you do so, the display should be free from the device. As a side note, you can only see two of the cables (as marked in the photo below) as the third is underneath. Most of the time the third one simply pops up on its own when you remove the first two. You may need to free it but most likely, it'll come up on its own. The second photo below shows its location on the board for reference.

• Set the device aside once the display is free.

Alternate method: If you're having issues pulling the screen up with a suction cup, you may insert a razor blade on the outer edge of either screw hold and pry upwards slightly. This method gives you enough clearance to stick your spudger tool underneath and release the screen. I recommend this method if your hands aren't as steady or you're afraid you may pull too hard and damage a cable.

Step 3: Remove the battery

I'll preface this section by saying the plastic battery tabs to pull to release them are useless. They break off and/or bend the battery. You can try that method but I suggest following my instructions below instead.

• Start by removing the two screws shown in the photo below. This shield covers the battery connector itself. Use your #000 screwdriver for this.

• Now use your spudger tool in order to gently pry the connector off the board as shown.

• We are now ready to remove the battery, which is the hardest part and must be done with extreme caution as to prevent puncturing it or causing damage to the logic board. I use the iSesamo opening tool for battery removal because it's pliable and that means it's more delicate. You may use the flat end of a spudger tool if you'd like but I've found them to break off rather easily.
• In order to remove the battery, start at the top left corner and put your opening tool between the casing and the battery. Gently start lifting upwards. You should hear adhesive start to crack. Now slowly move your tool around the left side of the battery and gently pry upwards a little at a time. Each time you should hear more adhesive cracking. Just apply pressure evenly and move your pry tool each time.

• By the time you get to the bottom the adhesive should be nearly free, or free enough for you to grab hold of the battery and carefully break the rest and remove it.

It is important while performing the steps above that you're careful to not puncture or bend the battery. Just take your time and you'll get there. Don't rush and don't force it.

Step 4: Remove the Lightning dock connector assembly

• Remove the dock connector shield by removing the 1 screw holding it in place. Use your #000 Phillips screwdriver for this.

• Next pry up the cable using your spudger tool. You can also pry up the round connector cable which is found a little further down on the logic board and is pictured below.

• Start removing the dock itself by using your #000 Phillips screwdriver to remove the seven screws shown below that hold the dock assembly in place. Be very careful to make sure you know where these screws came from. Do not get them mixed up as they are all different shapes and sizes.

• Turn your iPhone 5 around on the table so you can gently wedge the flat end of your spudger tool between the headphone jack and rear casing. Very carefully pry up until it starts to loosen.

• Now do the same thing under the Lightning dock but take note of cables running underneath it so you don't tear them.

• Keep working your way around the bottom until you get to the part under the loud speaker assembly. Here pry in between the cable and loud speaker instead. Take care not to flex the logic board in any way.

• You should now be able to slide the loud speaker assembly out from underneath the logic board. Carefully set it to the left as it is still attached. Do not attempt to tear it off.

• Now focus on removing the rest of the Lightning dock cable from the back of the rear casing, again being mindful of the logic board's position.
• The dock assembly should now be free from the back casing. Just take care not to rip any cables or wires that may still be hanging on by bits of glue and adhesive. Be sure to break them first.

Step 5: Separate the loud speaker assembly from the dock assembly

• The loud speaker assembly is attached to the dock assembly by a single cable. The only thing connecting it is a bit of adhesive. Use your spudger tool to separate the speaker from the dock at the point shown in the photo below.

• Now place the loud speaker assembly on the new dock connector assembly. Take care to pay attention to the orientation of the contact point so you know you're putting it on correctly.

Step 6: Replace the dock connector assembly

• Before beginning to replace the dock assembly, take note of the four silver rings that sit around the screw threads in the back casing. They may have moved or gotten relocated during disassembly. If they have gotten shuffled about, carefully place them back around the four screw threads before continuing.

• Next be sure to transfer any rubber gaskets that may not come on your new dock assembly. For instance, the mic has a gasket over it that you'll need to pull off of the old dock connector and place on the new one.
• The best place to start replacing the dock connector assembly is with the Lightning dock itself. Since it's in the center, it makes for a nice way to assure everything is lined up perfectly. Go ahead and use your #000 Phillips screwdriver to replace three of the screws that hold the Lightning dock in place . Don't replace the bottom right screw just yet as you'll need to secure the bracket on the dock underneath it once you've laid down the rest of the dock.

• Now go ahead and secure the left side of the dock assembly and the right. Again, be very mindful of the logic board and be sure not to nick it or break it while sliding the cable and loud speaker corner underneath it.
• Once you've gotten everything lined up, go ahead and replace all the rest of the screws you initially removed. If one of them doesn't want to go in, don't force it. Instead be sure that everything is lined up correctly and re-evaluate your positioning before moving on. Go ahead and plug a Lightning cable in to be sure your dock placement is correct. If a cable doesn't want to go in, you need to re-position and try again.

• Now reconnect the round connector at the bottom of the logic board.

• Lastly, reconnect the dock connector cable and replace the shield with your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

Step 7: Replace the battery

• Carefully lay the battery back down into place. Press firmly in order to cause the adhesive to grab hold of the back casing again.

• Reconnect the battery connector by carefully lining it up and pressing firmly with your finger.
• Reposition the battery shield and use your #000 screwdriver to replace the two screws.

Step 8: Reconnect the display assembly

• Re-attach the three cables for the display back to the board of your iPhone 5.

• Carefully re-position the display shield over the cables once you're sure they are secure.
• Replace the three screws you removed previously using your ##000 screwdriver. Sometimes the top right screw is not magnetized and may be a little tricky to get back in. I normally guide it in with my finger and then use the screwdriver. Makes for an easier job.

• Now snap the display back down and into place. Be sure to line up the grooves in the top of the screen inside the frame. If you are facing resistance, do not force the display down. Make sure everything is lined up properly and that the clips in the top are aligned properly. Then try gently pressing down again.
• Replace the two screws that sit on either side of the Lightning dock using your security screwdriver.

Step 9: Test the new dock assembly

Now that your iPhone 5 is fully assembled again, it's safe to power it back on. Once it boots back up, connect it to a wall charger to make sure it charges okay. Do the same in a computer to make sure iTunes recognizes your iPhone 5. I also recommend making sure that when your iPhone 5 is plugged in, it isn't getting any hotter than it normally does during charging. If it does, it could be a faulty dock and you should request a replacement from the supplier immediately.

If you run into problems, be sure to check out our iMore mod forums for answers to commonly asked questions.

According to documents obtained by the Los Angeles Times, the LAPD was able to bypass the lock screen of an iPhone 5s during the same period that the FBI was in a legal battle with Apple. The report shows that the LAPD found a "forensic cellphone expert" that was able to override the locked iPhone and gain access.

Details about how access was gained are not available, but the police department had tried numerous times to extract the data before this. From Los Angeles Times:

This report surfaces not long after a court ordered a California resident to unlock their iPhone using Touch ID, and of course, the iPhone 5c unlock that the FBI gained.

Foremost iOS digital forensics expert, Jonathan Zdziarski, has written and posted an open letter to FBI Director James Comey, explaining why he thinks it is a mistake to keep secret the tool used to hack the San Bernardino terrorist's iPhone.

On March 21, the day Apple unveiled the iPhone SE and Tim Cook stood on stage talking about how he "didn't expect to be in this position," the FBI acknowledged that it had found a way into Syed Farook's iPhone 5c. Zdziarski notes that keeping the tool a secret from Apple — even though Comey said it wasn't capable of cracking into newer versions of the iPhone — is a mistake. He writes:

He says that Apple knew its phones were vulnerable to tools such as the one used to get into the iPhone 5c, which is why, with the iPhone 5s, it introduced a Secure Enclave:

He concludes that it is important to share this information with Apple itself:

Even as Apple introduces the new iPhone SE and the 9.7-inch iPad Pro, the company is also retiring two more products. The Apple Store is no longer selling the iPhone 5s and the first version of the iPad Air.

It's not exactly a surprise to see that Apple has decided to say good-bye to these two devices. The iPhone 5s. launched in 2013, is much less powerful than the new iPhone SE, while keeping the same 4-inch display size. The first iPad Air was also released in 2013 and was already supplanted by the newer iPad Air 2, which launched in the fall of 2014. Apple will continue to sell that tablet, starting at $399, while also selling the 9.7-inch iPad Pro for a starting price of $599 starting on March 31.

Apple apparently wants to help boost overall sales of its iPhone devices in India by cutting the price of its older iPhone 5s in that country. This was reportedly done due to slow sales of the newer and more expensive iPhone 6s and iPhone 6s Plus.

The Times of India reports:

Even though the iPhone 5s is over two years old, it reportedly still takes up almost half of all iPhone sales in India:

The report says that Apple wants to concentrate its iPhone sales in the mid-range price range of between Rs 16,000 and Rs 27,000, with the idea that consumers will later get a newer model when it's time to upgrade.

After a few hard-core days of camera tests here at iMore, I wanted to share some of our 5s comparison shots for people who may be on the fence about upgrading this year.

The iPhone 5s's rear camera is pretty good for a two-year-old smartphone: It offers an 8MP back-side illuminated sensor, 1080p HD video, 720p 120fps Slo-Mo video, a TrueTone LED flash, an f/2.2 aperture. It was one of Apple's first cameras to offer automatic digital image stabilization, and it continued to improve on the low-light conditions of its predecessor. The iPhone 5s's front camera, a 1.2MP sensor with options for HD video and burst mode, is less impressive two years in, but still respectable for the occasional selfie.

But the iPhone 6s cameras both offer a huge leap forward: The 12MP rear camera is great on specs alone, offering further improved low-light conditions, a 4K video option, and both digital and (6s Plus only) optical image stabilization. The front-facing camera, too, takes a big step into big boy camera land, offering both a 5MP sensor and a "Retina flash," which lights up the pixels of the screen to help aid in the taking of dark selfies.

We've been testing the new iPhone models over the last few days alongside their older counterparts using the stock Camera app, with no post-production or extra stabilization added. In our tests, the iPhone 5s held up remarkably well against both the iPhone 6 and iPhone 6s cameras in certain areas: Daytime shots look similar across the entire iPhone line of the last two years, with the 6s and 6s Plus grabbing extra texture and detail in shots thanks to their bigger sensors.

(In all galleries below, sorting is as follows: top left iPhone 5s; top right iPhone 6; bottom left iPhone 6s; bottom right iPhone 6s Plus)

Macro photos, too, look about the same across all devices; Apple's fixed aperture prevents the camera from being particularly fancy in that department. (Of course, that's what third-party lens add-ons are for.)

When it comes to low-light details, however, the 6s and 6s Plus exited the tests as our clear winners. Details are sharper, there's more color in the scene, and the overall light balance is much better.

And though hard to show in these photographs, the 6s series takes markedly crisper shots when firing off a burst or attempting to snap pictures freehand in low-light conditions—for example, when shooting 15 quick-burst pictures of my cat, the 6s and 6s Plus had about 7 blur-free pictures to the 5s's 4, though the 5s did have better coloration (in part due to poor exposure tapping on my part).

When it came to the front-facing camera, there was no competition: Those 3.8 extra megapixels do a lot of work to flesh out front-facing selfies and photos, especially in lower-light conditions. And the Retina flash, while weaker than your standard TrueTone rear flash, still provided nice overall fill for the photograph.

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I didn't do a lot of rear-facing TrueTone flash testing, because frankly: I hate using the flash in most photographic situations and the more people I can convince not to use flashes on a daily basis, the better. I will note, however, that both the iPhone 6s and 6s Plus routinely took a few milliseconds longer than the 5s or 6 before snapping and saving the image. The iPhone 6 in general has a cooler-colored flash than either the 6s or 5s, while the 5s's flash is slightly dimmer than its newer counterparts.

We'll have even more photographic comparisons coming soon, including matching up the new iPhone cameras against the latest Android tech and a lowlight, late-night test across the streets of New York City. Until then: How are you liking your new iPhone 6s camera? If you don't have one yet, is this enticing you to upgrade? Let us know in the comments.

WWDC 2012 came and went without any new iPhone announcements, re-affirming that that 2011 hadn't be a fluke and that fall was the new summer. So it was that Apple announced another iPhone event for September 12, 2012. There, Apple senior vice president of worldwide marketing introduced the biggest thing to happen to the iPhone since the original iPhone. Big as in tall. Big as in light. Big as in LTE. Big as in the iPhone 5.

Loving it was easy

iPhone 5, codenamed N41/N42 and model number iPhone5,1, was the fourth major redesign and the second major improvement to the iPhone's display since the original. It was the fist time, however, Apple changed aspect ratios. All previous iPhones had been 3:2. The iPhone 5 was a more cinematic 16:9. It meant movies and TV could be shown with less or no letterboxing, and apps could take advantage of an extra row of content. That's because Apple had simply added pixels to take the iPhone from 3.5-inches to 4-inches, they'd kept the same 326ppi density and gone from 940x640 to 1136x640.

Apple also switched to in-cell technology, which let them combine the touch sensor and LCD into one layer. If the pixels of the iPhone 4 and iPhone 4s looked like they were painted beneath glass, the pixels on the iPhone 5 looked like they were painted inside the glass. It reduced reflections and made everything look better. There were some issues with rapid, changing, diagonal swiping, but overall Apple had succeeded in once again making the best, if not the biggest, display in the business.

Although the screen got bigger, paradoxically the iPhone 5 itself got smaller. 12% smaller by volume than its predecessor. That meant it was so light people picking it for the first time could mistake it for a hollow shell. It required a manufacturing process with precision and at scale never seen before. According to Apple senior vice president of design, Jony Ive, they now measured in microns.

Though the overall rounded-rectangle shape of the iPhone 5 stayed the same, Apple rebuilt the casing from the atoms on up. Instead of a glass back and stainless steel band, they went back to the aluminum of the original iPhone. This time, however, they made it a unibody that covered the back and sides and included diamond polished chamfered edges. Ceramic/pigmented glass was still used on the top and bottom for RF transparency, however, resulting in a two-tone effect. Apple offered both white and silver (Stormtrooper) and black and slate (Vader). The silver was clear-coated aluminum. The slate was anodized. Dark colors, especially black, are incredibly hard to anodize and that did cause some issues for Apple when it came to scratching and chipping.

The iPhone 5 also debuted Apple's first truly custom processor. Previous Apple A-series processors had been based on existing ARM reference platforms like Cortex A9. For the Apple A6, Apple licensed the ARM v7s instruction set and made their own design — a 32nm CMOS dual-core CPU that can run from between 800MHz and 1.2GHz and was codenamed Swift. They topped it off with a triple-core PowerVR SGX543MP3 GPU and 1GB of RAM. It was roughly twice as fast. Again. There was no new storage option, however, so 64GB remained the max. The battery did creep up to 1440mAh and that, along with new efficiencies, increased useful battery life.

The Apple A6 image signal processor (ISP) added spatial noise reduction as well as increased speed. Because of the 25% thinner body, Apple wasn't able to include a better physical camera (cameras love depth) but they somehow managed to squeeze a camera into the iPhone 5 that was just as good as the iPhone 4S. Re-branded under the old "iSight" name, Apple did add a new, dynamic low-light mode which they claimed was up to 2 f-stops better. Apple also claimed the 5-element lens has been aligned with even greater precision for even greater sharpness. Also, the surface of the iSight was switched to sapphire crystal to make it more scratch resistant. The front, FaceTime camera went 720p, becoming FaceTime HD.

Making a camera that was as good if not slightly better than the iPhone 4S fit into a body as thin as the iPhone 5 was, no doubt, a miracle of engineering. However, it did raise questions about the need for ever-thinner iPhones. Could Apple not have left the depth the same and made the camera even better? Added even more battery? What was truly the most important — more functionality or less weight? Apple clearly believed the latter.

In their efforts to fit everything into the smaller-by-volume space, Apple once again went to a smaller SIM card. This time, the nanoSIM. Thanks to Qualcomm's MDM9615 and RTR8600 chipsets, they added 4G LTE support with a maximum theoretical speed of 100mbps. These were next generation chips at the time and, because Apple had waited to go to LTE until they were ready, the iPhone avoided all the battery life and bloating issues faced by earlier adopters.

Since LTE doesn't support simultaneous voice and data, the GSM iPhone 5 had to drop down to HSPA+ while making or taking calls. Since EVDO Rev. A also doesn't supported simultaneous voice and data either, the CMDA iPhone 5 had to drop data entirely. To be clear, this was and remains a Verizon and Sprint problem. They never rolled out EVDO Rev. B, which does support simultaneous voice and data, nor did they switch to HSPA, like their CDMA counterparts in Canada, Bell and TELUS, did.

That meant, in order for Apple to provide a "world phone", Apple has to include CDMA support in every iPhone. Not only was that a more complex radio model to solve, it was a more expensive one — Qualcomm owns CDMA and they take a hefty royalty for its use. And, again, to provide a world phone, that's a higher royalty Apple had to pay on every iPhone.

Apple could have worked around the simultaneous voice and data issue by adding a second voice radio to the iPhone 5, but while they were willing to pay more for every iPhone because of Verizon and Sprint's technological debt, they drew the line at increasing size and decreasing battery life. Verizon and Sprint customers would have to wait until their carriers went all-in on Voice over LTE (VoLTE).

For areas without LTE, Apple added DC-HSPA+, and it's still impressive theoretical 42mbps capacity. Wideband audio was also added for the few carriers that actually supported it. There was still no NFC, not even with Passbook along for the ride. Bluetooth was already maxed out at 4.0, but thanks to a Murata Wi-Fi module, which included the Broadcom BCM4334 chip, the iPhone 5 gained 802.11n on 5GHz as well.

Apple also added a 3rd mic for better noise cancellation and beamforming. Thanks to FaceTime, Siri, and other, newer technologies, we didn't just talk into our phones any more. We talked at them and from all around them.

The iPhone 5 was also a turning point in another major area. After 10 years of 30-pin Dock connector, Apple swapped it out for the smaller, more flexible, more advanced Lightning connector — 80% smaller and offering 8 all-digital signals to be precise. It caused a lot of pain for a lot of people who'd accumulated a lot of Dock connector-based accessories over the years, and Apple dropped the ball in a major way by not having their adapters on the shelves — never mind in boxes — in anything approaching a reasonable amount of time. It was a necessary and good change, however, and over time the conversion pain diminished.

The iconic earbuds were also updated for the iPhone 5, becoming EarPods. The shape of the EarPods was a significant divergence — instead of being uniformly round, the EarPods were asymmetrically shaped and, according to Apple, ergonomically designed to better fit a wider range of ears. EarPods also featured a new, multi-port design. The main EarPod speaker directed sound into your ear. The port on the back was tuned to mid-range frequencies and intended to improve consistency of experience. Ports in the stem were meant to improve bass. Air channels reduced pressure on the speaker so it could concentrate on providing greater low-frequency sound. They still weren't high-end and weren't meant to be, but for in-the-box headsets, they were an improvement.

Pricing was unchanged at $199, $299, and $399 on contract.

Bored all the way to the bank

The iPhone 5 launched in the US, Australia, Canada, France, Germany, Hong Kong, Japan, Singapore and the UK on September 21, 2012. By the end of the year it was available in 100 countries on 240 carriers. Apple also launched iOS 6 with it. They sold 5 million the first weekend.

Tim Cook, via Apple:

The iPhone 5 was a completely new design with a completely new manufacturing process, but thanks to the familiar silhouette button layout, especially the iconic Home button, some people and pundits called it uninspired. They called it boring. It made no sense to people who understood what went into making it. It made no sense to anyone familiar with all the other iterative designs from all the other manufacturers.

But perception is reality, and manufacturers disregard it at their peril. Add in the extremely troubled iOS 6 Maps launch that came with it, and gripes abounded. Still, reviews were positive.

Tim Stevens of Engadget:

Jim Dalrymple of The Loop:

Yours truly for iMore:

It felt the closest yet to the original Project Purple concept Jony Ive had been working on since 2005. It felt like the pinnacle of that hardware line.

The competition

Microsoft had launched Windows Phone 7 and then called a mulligan and launched the similar looking but not binary compatible Windows Phone 8. It did, finally, unite Microsoft's platforms under the NT kernel, however, so it was an improvement. Nokia, the principle Windows Phone manufacturer started to make noise about Android and even started to launch low-end Android phones under the Nokia X label. They'd been so devalued under the leadership of former Microsoft executive and current Nokia CEO Stephen Elop that Microsoft decided to simply buy Nokia and get into the hardware business Bill Gates and Steve Ballmer had previously said made no sense to them. Ballmer, however, was already on his way out. He resigned and left the future of Microsoft in mobile to his successor, Satya Nadella.

BlackBerry had ditched their dual CEOs and replaced them with Thorstein Heins, and finally launched BlackBerry 10. It had some interesting ideas but was too late to market for new customers and too different for existing ones. Neither the full screen Z10 nor the hardware keyboard Q10 could find much traction.

Samsung and Motorola remained in litigation with Apple, the former leading in marketshare and rapidly gaining in profit share, the latter taking the first careful steps towards a Google phone. Competition from Android had never been more fierce. Some in the media and in the markets began to run with the Apple is doomed meme, and Apple's ability to innovate and excite was called into question.

Six years later

At WWDC 2013, Apple began to strike back. iOS 7 — a radical reconceptualizing of what it meant to be mobile software — was coming. But what would come with it?

• History of the original iPhone
• History of iPhone 3G
• History of iPhone 3GS
• History of iPhone 4
• History of iPhone 4s
• History of iPhone 5
• History of iPhone 5c
• History of iPhone 5s

The loud speaker in your iPhone is what makes it possible for you to talk on speakerphone, play music, and hear alert notifications for text messages, phone calls, and more. If the loud speaker is defective or blown, you may experience symptoms such as no sound at all except through the earpiece, crackling audio, or intermittent audio issues. If any of that sounds like something you're experiencing, your loud speaker will most likely have to be replaced. If you're out of warranty or own an older iPhone, a DIY repair can save you some money if you aren't yet ready to purchase a new iPhone. No matter what iPhone model you have, we can walk you through how to replace the loud speaker all on your own!

• How to replace the loudspeaker in an iPhone 5s
• How to replace the loudspeaker in an iPhone 5c
• How to replace the loudspeaker in an iPhone 5
• How to replace the loudspeaker in an iPhone 4s
• How to replace the loudspeaker in an iPhone 4
• How to replace the loudspeaker in an iPhone 3G or 3GS

How to replace the loudspeaker in an iPhone 5s

If you're experiencing any of the symptoms described above in your iPhone 5s and you're out of warranty, a speaker replacement is one of the easier repairs to perform. It sits right on top of the dock assembly meaning only a few screws and some adhesive stands between you and a newly functioning speaker.

How to replace the loud speaker in an iPhone 5s

How to replace the loudspeaker in an iPhone 5c

The iPhone 5c comes apart much like the iPhone 5 and iPhone 5s. Actually, they're mostly identical. Just like the iPhone 5s, the loudspeaker sits atop the dock assembly. Getting to it is super simple and the part itself will cost you far less than purchasing a new iPhone.

How to replace the loudspeaker in an iPhone 5c

How to replace the loudspeaker in an iPhone 5

The iPhone 5 introduced an all-new design made of solid high-quality aluminum. The position of the loudspeaker also changed from its predecessors. That's okay, though, since this change didn't make it any harder to repair. The iPhone 5s and iPhone 5c followed in its footsteps a year later. Parts and directions can vary slightly, so if you've got an iPhone 5 with a blown speaker, you'll want to follow the directions in the link below.

How to replace the loudspeaker in an iPhone 5

How to replace the loudspeaker in an iPhone 4s

The iPhone 4s loudspeaker sits along the bottom of your iPhone, directly on top of the dock. It's also one of the easiest repairs you could have to perform. With very few components to remove, a replacement loudspeaker is a cheap and easy job. So even if your iPhone 4s isn't your primary iPhone anymore, I can't think of any reason not to fix it and keep it around as a trusty backup phone, should the need ever arise.

How to replace the loudspeaker in an iPhone 4s

How to replace the loudspeaker in an iPhone 4

The iPhone 4 was released in two flavors; GSM and CDMA. What guide you'll use to replace your iPhone's speaker will depend on which one you own. Both are super simple but the actual part and procedure may vary slightly. If you have a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4, you'll want the CDMA guide below. If you have an AT&T variant, you'll want the GSM guide. If you're outside the US, you just need to figure out whether the carrier you purchased to use your iPhone 4 with is CDMA or GSM, then use the correct guide.

• How to replace the loudspeaker in a GSM iPhone 4
• How to replace the loudspeaker in a CDMA iPhone 4

How to replace the loudspeaker in an iPhone 3G or 3GS

The iPhone 3G and iPhone 3GS may be slightly long in the tooth but that doesn't mean they don't still make great music players or iPods either at the gym or for smaller children. If the loudspeaker isn't working, a repair is super simple and will cost you less than $20.

How to replace the loudspeaker in an iPhone 3G or iPhone 3GS

Questions?

Need even more DIY help? Perhaps you're experiencing another issue with your iPhone not mentioned above. We've got the guide you need in our DIY section.

If you truly want to get off the grid but still need to use your iPhone, check out this new Indiegogo crowd funding project called the CrankCase.

The CrankCase is a durable case for the iPhone with a built-in hand-crank charger. Crank it for five minutes and get up to three hours of life for an iPhone 5. If you can only spare one minute of time to crank, you can still add another 40 minutes of talk time to your iPhone.

Ampware doesn't plan to start shipping the CrankCase until October, 2015, but you can pre-order now starting at $49.99 — the retail price will be $129.99 if the product makes it to market.

The developers also plan to produce a CrankBox device; it's a more universal charging mechanism that works with any smartphone or USB-powered device that can charge up from a 500 mA output.

If you're the sort of person that likes to get away from it all but still wants to be able to call, text or use apps in a pinch, the CrankCase and CrankBox might be really appealing. If you have any sort of repetitive strain injury on your wrists or lower arms, though, you might want to pass on this one.

CrankCase and CrankBox are really neat ideas. Hopefully they'll be able to take it to the next step — they've given themselves until April 18, 2015 to raise $50,000 on Indiegogo. You can also get more info on the Ampware Web site.

Have an iPhone 5 with a broken or jammed headphone jack? If you're within your warranty period, just head to your local Apple Store to swap your device for a new one. However, if your warranty has expired and you aren't ready for a new iPhone yet, we can help you DIY repair the headphone jack for a fraction of the cost. If you're experiencing crackling audio, no audio at all when headphones are plugged in, or if something's stuck in the headphone jack, this guide is for you. Follow along and we'll not only walk you through the repair step by step, but link you to all the parts and tools you need as well!

Note: The headphone jack assembly on the iPhone 5 is actually part of the dock assembly. So in order to replace the headphone jack, you'll be replacing the actual Lightning dock as a whole. This means if you're experiencing any other issues such as finicky charging, those issues will be resolved as well.

Parts and tools needed

You'll need some tools and parts in order to repair your iPhone 5. iMore recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like iFixYouri. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• Replacement dock connector
• Suction cup
• 5-point security screwdriver
• Standard #000 Phillips screwdriver
• Spudger tool
• Razor blade
• iSesamo Opening tool

Power off your iPhone 5

Before beginning any repair, always power your iPhone down completely using the Slide to power off option. Easy enough right?

Remove the front screen assembly

• To begin, use your security screwdriver to remove the two screws in the bottom of your iPhone 5 that sit on either side of the dock.

• Now place your suction cup above the Home button and gently pry up from the bottom. Take care not to pull the entire screen off as the top of the screen is still attached by several cables. You only want to release the bottom portion.

• Once the screen is free, swing up the display assembly so you can get to the shield that is holding the cables in place.

• Using your ##000 screwdriver to remove the three screws holding the display shield down. Set the shield aside and remember not to mix up the screws.

• Now use your spudger tool to pry up the three cables that attach the display to the board. After you do so, the display should be free from the device. As a side note, you can only see two of the cables (as marked in the photo below) as the third is underneath. Most of the time the third one simply pops up on its own when you remove the first two. You may need to free it but most likely, it'll come up on its own. The second photo below shows its location on the board for reference.

• Set the device aside once the display is free.

Alternate method: If you're having issues pulling the screen up with a suction cup, you may insert a razor blade on the outer edge of either screw hold and pry upwards slightly. This method gives you enough clearance to stick your spudger tool underneath and release the screen. I recommend this method if your hands aren't as steady or you're afraid you may pull too hard and damage a cable.

Remove the battery

I'll preface this section by saying the plastic battery tabs to pull to release them are useless. They break off and/or bend the battery. You can try that method but I suggest following my instructions below instead.

• Start by removing the two screws shown in the photo below. This shield covers the battery connector itself. Use your #000 screwdriver for this.

• Now use your spudger tool in order to gently pry the connector off the board as shown.

• We are now ready to remove the battery, which is the hardest part and must be done with extreme caution as to prevent puncturing it or causing damage to the logic board. I use the iSesamo opening tool for battery removal because it's pliable and that means it's more delicate. You may use the flat end of a spudger tool if you'd like but I've found them to break off rather easily.
• In order to remove the battery, start at the top left corner and put your opening tool between the casing and the battery. Gently start lifting upwards. You should hear adhesive start to crack. Now slowly move your tool around the left side of the battery and gently pry upwards a little at a time. Each time you should hear more adhesive cracking. Just apply pressure evenly and move your pry tool each time.

• By the time you get to the bottom the adhesive should be nearly free, or free enough for you to grab hold of the battery and carefully break the rest and remove it.

It is important while performing the steps above that you don't puncture or bend the battery. Just take your time and you'll get there. Don't rush and don't force it.

Remove the Lightning dock connector assembly

• Remove the dock connector shield by removing the 1 screw holding it in place. Use your #000 Phillips screwdriver for this.

• Next pry up the cable using your spudger tool. You can also pry up the round connector cable which is found a little further down on the logic board and is pictured below.

• Start removing the dock itself by using your #000 Phillips screwdriver to remove the seven screws shown below that hold the dock assembly in place. Be very careful to make sure you know where these screws came from. Do not get them mixed up as they are all different shapes and sizes.

• Turn your iPhone 5 around on the table so you can gently wedge the flat end of your spudger tool between the headphone jack and rear casing. Very carefully pry up until it starts to loosen.

• Now do the same thing under the Lightning dock but take note of cables running underneath it so you don't tear them.

• Keep working your way around the bottom until you get to the part under the loud speaker assembly. Here pry in between the cable and loud speaker instead. Take care not to flex the logic board in any way.

• You should now be able to slide the loud speaker assembly out from underneath the logic board. Carefully set it to the left as it is still attached. Do not attempt to tear it off.

• Now focus on removing the rest of the Lightning dock cable from the back of the rear casing, again being mindful of the logic board's position.
• The dock assembly should now be free from the back casing. Just take care not to rip any cables or wires that may still be hanging on by bits of glue and adhesive. Be sure to break them first.

Separate the loudspeaker assembly from the dock assembly

• The loudspeaker assembly is attached to the dock assembly by a single cable. The only thing connecting it is a bit of adhesive. Use your spudger tool to separate the speaker from the dock at the point shown in the photo below.

• Now place the loudspeaker assembly on the new dock connector assembly. Take care to pay attention to the orientation of the contact point so you know you're putting it on correctly.

Replace the dock & headphone jack assembly

• Before beginning to replace the dock assembly, take note of the four silver rings that sit around the screw threads in the back casing. They may have moved or gotten relocated during disassembly. If they have gotten shuffled about, carefully place them back around the four screw threads before continuing.

• Next be sure to transfer any rubber gaskets that may not come on your new dock assembly. For instance, the mic has a gasket over it that you'll need to pull off of the old dock connector and place on the new one.
• The best place to start replacing the dock connector assembly is with the Lightning dock itself. Since it's in the center, it makes for a nice way to assure everything is lined up perfectly. Go ahead and use your #000 Phillips screwdriver to replace three of the screws that hold the Lightning dock in place . Don't replace the bottom right screw just yet as you'll need to secure the bracket on the dock underneath it once you've laid down the rest of the dock.

• Now go ahead and secure the left side of the dock assembly and the right. Again, be very mindful of the logic board and be sure not to nick it or break it while sliding the cable and loud speaker corner underneath it.
• Once you've gotten everything lined up, go ahead and replace all the rest of the screws you initially removed. If one of them doesn't want to go in, don't force it. Instead be sure that everything is lined up correctly and re-evaluate your positioning before moving on. Go ahead and plug a Lightning cable in to be sure your dock placement is correct. If a cable doesn't want to go in, you need to re-position and try again.

• Now reconnect the round connector at the bottom of the logic board.

• Lastly, reconnect the dock connector cable and replace the shield with your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

This is a good time to plug in a pair of headphones to ensure that the dock and headphone jack are lined up correctly. Realizing this now is much easier than realizing it once you've got your iPhone 5 already assembled. Don't force the headphones in. If they don't go in, re-align the dock and headphone jack again.

Reinstall the battery

• Carefully lay the battery back down into place. Press firmly in order to cause the adhesive to grab hold of the back casing again.

• Reconnect the battery connector by carefully lining it up and pressing firmly with your finger.
• Reposition the battery shield and use your #000 screwdriver to replace the two screws.

Reconnect the display assembly

• Re-attach the three cables for the display back to the board of your iPhone 5.

• Carefully re-position the display shield over the cables once you're sure they are secure.
• Replace the three screws you removed previously using your ##000 screwdriver. Sometimes the top right screw is not magnetized and may be a little tricky to get back in. I normally guide it in with my finger and then use the screwdriver. Makes for an easier job.

• Now snap the display back down and into place. Be sure to line up the grooves in the top of the screen inside the frame. If you are facing resistance, do not force the display down. Make sure everything is lined up properly and that the clips in the top are aligned properly. Then try gently pressing down again.
• Replace the two screws that sit on either side of the Lightning dock using your security screwdriver.

Test the new dock & headphone jack assembly

Once you've completely reassembled your iPhone 5, it's safe to turn it back on. You'll want to test the following functions in order to make sure the replacement parts are working as they should:

• Plug headphones in and play audio, make sure it sounds good and plays as it should
• Play audio over the loud speaker to make sure your iPhone passes the signal from headphones to speaker as it should
• Charge your iPhone and make sure it doesn't get too warm, if it does, remove the replacement part immediately and swap it out
• Make sure iTunes recognizes your iPhone 5 when plugged in
• Make a call and make sure everyone can hear you through headphones, loud speaker, and as you'd normally talk through your iPhone

If everything checks out okay, you're good to go again!

Questions?

If you run into problems, be sure to check out our iMore forums for answers to commonly asked questions.

If you're experiencing issues with the headphone jack in your iPhone 5c and software troubleshooting just isn't doing the trick, a DIY repair may be required. Symptoms of a defective or faulty headphone jack can include distorted sounds, crackling, sounds cutting in and out, and in some cases, no sound at all. In rare cases, a faulty headphone jack can also cause regular sounds to not work if iOS thinks headphones are plugged in when they're not.

If any of these scenarios sounds like something you're experiencing, follow along and we'll walk you through where to get parts and tools and how to DIY replace the headphone jack in your iPhone 5c for a fraction of the cost of a new iPhone!

What you need to replace an iPhone 5c dock assembly

You'll need some tools and parts in order to repair your iPhone 5c. iMore recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like iFixYouri. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• Replacement Lightning dock & headphone jack assembly
• Suction cup
• 5-point security screwdriver
• Standard #000 Phillips screwdriver
• Spudger tool
• Razor blade
• iSesamo Opening tool (not necessary but awesome for prying up cables and getting under adhesive)

As you can see from the parts list above, we'll be replacing the entire dock assembly since the headphone jack is connected to it.

1. Power off your iPhone 5c

Before performing any repair on any iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch you should always remember to power it off. Simply hold down on the Power button until you see Slide to Power off. One you're sure your iPhone is turned off, proceed to the next section.

2. Remove the two security screws on both sides of the dock connector

There are two security screws that secure the screen to the frame and they sit on each side of the dock connector. Use your 5-point security screwdriver to remove them. They are both the same size so it's okay if you mix them up.

3. Remove the display assembly

1. Place your suction cup slightly above the Home button assembly and secure it to the screen.

2. Holding the iPhone in place with one hand, gently pull upwards on the suction cup until you free the bottom of the screen. You should now be able to use your fingers to slowly raise up the screen and expose where the front assembly is connected to the logic board.
3. Remove the four screws holding down the shield that covers the display cables. To do this, use your #000 screwdriver. These screws are different sizes so make sure you keep them organized in a way you can remember for re-assembly.

4. Once all four screws are removed, carefully remove the shield and set it aside.

5. Now use your spudger tool in order to remove the three cables shown in the image below.

6. The display assembly should now be free from the body of the phone. Go ahead and set the display assembly aside.

4. Disconnect the battery

We don't need to completely remove the battery for this repair but it's always a good idea to disconnect the battery before removing and replacing internal components in order to prevent a short from occurring.

1. Remove the two screws holding down the battery cable using your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

2. Gently lift the battery shield out of your iPhone 5c and carefully set it aside.

3. Use your spudger tool to carefully pry up the battery cable.

4. That's it. We don't need to go any further. Just remember to keep track of the shield and what order the two screws came out.

5. Remove the loudspeaker assembly

1. Start by carefully peeling up the adhesive shown in the photos below using your pry tool or iSesamo opening tool taking care not to tear it. This cable works in conjunction with your home button. It does not come completely out. You only want it to be detached from the speaker enclosure.

2. Now remove the three screws shown in the photo below using your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

3. Disconnect the small circular gold connector using your spudger tool. This is located under where you disconnected the battery. Pay attention to the adhesive that is holding it down. It's quite easy to break but take your time so you don't break the cable itself.

4. The speaker enclosure can now be lifted out of your iPhone 5c. Just take care not to snag the dock, logic board or any cables while removing it. The photo below shows the best way to grab hold of the speaker assembly.

6. Replace the Lightning dock & headphone jack assembly

1. Start by using your spudger tool to disconnect the single cable that connects the dock to the logic board. It is above where the battery connector is located.

2. Use your #000 Phillips screwdriver to remove the remaining 4 screws that hold the dock in place. They are outlined below.

3. The dock assembly is now ready to be peeled out. The only thing holding it in now is adhesive. The easiest place to start is by peeling where the cable connects to the board. Once you get to the actual dock, use your spudger tool, or iSesamo opening tool which is what I prefer, in order to break the foam adhesive around the Lightning connector.

4. Use your pry tool or any opening tool in order to pop off the rubber gasket that sits next to the headphone jack. It doesn't come off completely. You just need to pop it away from the frame.

5. Use your pry tool or iSesamo opening tool in order to break the adhesive around the headphone jack, which is also part of the dock assembly. You may need to use a finger on your other hand to work it up and around the battery.

6. Now use your opening tool to remove the rest of the adhesive under the dock assembly, taking care not to tear anything. The dock should now come free from your iPhone 5c.

7. Check out your old dock compared to your new one and make sure they look exactly the same. Peel off any adhesive backing on the new dock. This is also a good time to remove any old adhesive from inside the frame of your iPhone.

8. Start by lining up the headphone jack and Lightning dock assembly with the screw holes. You can also lay the adhesive on the right side of the dock at this time and re-connect the cable to the logic board to ensure a good fit.

9. Once you're confident the dock is lined up, replace the four screws you removed earlier using your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

10. Now is a good time to plug in a charging cable and a pair of headphones to ensure a good fit. If you can't push one or the other in all the way (or both), the dock is lined up incorrectly and needs to be repositioned. Better to figure this out now instead of when you have reassembled your entire iPhone.

11. If everything is lined up and looks good, you can move on to putting the loud speaker back in.

7. Reinstall the loudspeaker assembly

1. There are contacts on the dock assembly that must make contact with the loud speaker for it to function. Take note of those below and make sure you position your speaker accordingly.

2. Once the speaker assembly is lined up, replace the three screws you removed earlier in order to secure it down.

3. Replace the gold connector you removed earlier.

8. Re-connect the battery

1. Re-connect the battery cable that you pried up earlier.

2. Replace the battery cable shield.

3. Replace the two screws holding the battery cable down using your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

9. Re-connect the display assembly

1. Carefully reconnect the three cables running from the display assembly to the logic board.

2. Reposition the metal shield that sits over the three cables and replace the four screws that hold it in place, remembering where each one came from — they are all different sizes.

3. Line up the top of the screen carefully and make note of the teeth that line up to the top of your iPhone 5c's frame. Once the top of the display is lined up, carefully snap down the remainder by moving your fingers along the edge.

10. Replace the security screws on each side of the dock connector

Once you are confident that the display is seated correctly again, use your security screwdriver in order to replace the two screws on either side of the dock connector.

11. Test the new Lightning dock & headphone jack assembly

After you're iPhone 5c is fully assembled, turn it back on. Here are some things you should do in order to fully test the new Lightning dock & headphone jack assembly:

• Ensure your iPhone 5c charges as it should
• Play music through the headphones
• Test volume control and skip track functions through headphones
• Test the loudspeaker since we removed it by either taking a call on the speaker or by playing music
• Ensure your iPhone 5c does not get too warm when charging it, if it does, remove the replacement dock immediately and have it replaced

If all of the above checks out okay, you're good to go!

Questions?

Let us know below.

If your iPhone 5c won't charge, the problem could be one of two things; the battery or the Lightning dock itself. If you're experiencing other symptoms such as headphone jack issues, or dock accessories not working when plugged in, the Lightning dock is more than likely the culprit. Luckily, a DIY repair to replace the Lightning dock isn't too time or labor-intensive, and it'll cost you a fraction of what a new iPhone would!

What you need to replace an iPhone 5c dock assembly

You'll need some tools and parts in order to repair your iPhone 5c. iMore recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like iFixYouri. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• Replacement Lightning dock assembly
• Suction cup
• 5-point security screwdriver
• Standard #000 Phillips screwdriver
• Spudger tool
• Razor blade
• iSesamo Opening tool (not necessary but awesome for prying up cables and getting under adhesive)

1. Power off your iPhone 5c

Before performing any repair on any iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch you should always remember to power it off. Simply hold down on the Power button until you see Slide to Power off. One you're sure your iPhone is turned off, proceed to the next section.

2. Remove the two security screws on both sides of the dock connector

There are two security screws that secure the screen to the frame and they sit on each side of the dock connector. Use your 5-point security screwdriver to remove them. They are both the same size so it's okay if you mix them up.

3. Remove the display assembly

1. Place your suction cup slightly above the Home button assembly and secure it to the screen.

2. Holding the iPhone in place with one hand, gently pull upwards on the suction cup until you free the bottom of the screen. You should now be able to use your fingers to slowly raise up the screen and expose where the front assembly is connected to the logic board.
3. Remove the four screws holding down the shield that covers the display cables. To do this, use your #000 screwdriver. These screws are different sizes so make sure you keep them organized in a way you can remember for re-assembly.

4. Once all four screws are removed, carefully remove the shield and set it aside.

5. Now use your spudger tool in order to remove the three cables shown in the image below.

6. The display assembly should now be free from the body of the phone. Go ahead and set the display assembly aside.

4. Disconnect the battery

We don't need to completely remove the battery for this repair but it's always a good idea to disconnect the battery before removing and replacing internal components in order to prevent a short from occurring.

1. Remove the two screws holding down the battery cable using your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

2. Gently lift the battery shield out of your iPhone 5c and carefully set it aside.

3. Use your spudger tool to carefully pry up the battery cable.

4. That's it. We don't need to go any further. Just remember to keep track of the shield and what order the two screws came out.

5. Remove the loudspeaker assembly

1. Start by carefully peeling up the adhesive shown in the photos below using your pry tool or iSesamo opening tool taking care not to tear it. This cable works in conjunction with your home button. It does not come completely out. You only want it to be detached from the speaker enclosure.

2. Now remove the three screws shown in the photo below using your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

3. Disconnect the small circular gold connector using your spudger tool. This is located under where you disconnected the battery. Pay attention to the adhesive that is holding it down. It's quite easy to break but take your time so you don't break the cable itself.

4. The speaker enclosure can now be lifted out of your iPhone 5c. Just take care not to snag the dock, logic board or any cables while removing it. The photo below shows the best way to grab hold of the speaker assembly.

6. Replace the Lightning dock assembly

1. Start by using your spudger tool to disconnect the single cable that connects the dock to the logic board. It is above where the battery connector is located.

2. Use your #000 Phillips screwdriver to remove the remaining 4 screws that hold the dock in place. They are outlined below.

3. The dock is now ready to be peeled out. The only thing holding it in now is adhesive. The easiest place to start is by peeling where the cable connects to the board. Once you get to the actual dock, use your spudger tool, or iSesamo opening tool which is what I prefer, in order to break the foam adhesive around the Lightning connector.

4. Use your pry tool or any opening tool in order to pop off the rubber gasket that sits next to the headphone jack. It doesn't come off completely. You just need to pop it away from the frame.

5. Use your pry tool or iSesamo opening tool in order to break the adhesive around the headphone jack, which is also part of the dock assembly. You may need to use a finger on your other hand to work it up and around the battery.

6. Now use your opening tool to remove the rest of the adhesive under the dock assembly, taking care not to tear anything. The dock should now come free from your iPhone 5c.

7. Check out your old dock compared to your new one and make sure they look exactly the same. Peel off any adhesive backing on the new dock. This is also a good time to remove any old adhesive from inside the frame of your iPhone.

8. Start by lining up the headphone jack and Lightning dock assembly with the screw holes. You can also lay the adhesive on the right side of the dock at this time and re-connect the cable to the logic board to ensure a good fit.

9. Once you're confident the dock is lined up, replace the four screws you removed earlier using your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

10. Now is a good time to plug in a charging cable and a pair of headphones to ensure a good fit. If you can't push one or the other in all the way (or both), the dock is lined up incorrectly and needs to be repositioned. Better to figure this out now instead of when you have reassembled your entire iPhone.

11. If everything is lined up and looks good, you can move on to putting the loud speaker back in.

7. Put the loudspeaker assembly back inside the iPhone

1. There are contacts on the dock assembly that must make contact with the loud speaker for it to function. Take note of those below and make sure you position your speaker accordingly.

2. Once the speaker assembly is lined up, replace the three screws you removed earlier in order to secure it down.

3. Replace the gold connector you removed earlier.

8. Re-connect the battery

1. Re-connect the battery cable that you pried up earlier.

2. Replace the battery cable shield.

3. Replace the two screws holding the battery cable down using your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

9. Re-connect the display assembly

1. Carefully reconnect the three cables running from the display assembly to the logic board.

2. Reposition the metal shield that sits over the three cables and replace the four screws that hold it in place, remembering where each one came from — they are all different sizes.

3. Line up the top of the screen carefully and make note of the teeth that line up to the top of your iPhone 5c's frame. Once the top of the display is lined up, carefully snap down the remainder by moving your fingers along the edge.

10. Replace the security screws on each side of the dock connector

Once you are confident that the display is seated correctly again, use your security screwdriver in order to replace the two screws on either side of the dock connector.

11. Test the new Lightning dock assembly

After your iPhone 5c is fully assembled, turn it back on. Here are some things you should do in order to fully test the new Lightning dock:

• Ensure your iPhone 5c charges as it should
• Play music through the headphones
• Test volume control and skip track functions through the headphones
• Test the loudspeaker since we removed it by either taking a call on your speaker or play music
• Ensure your iPhone 5c does not get too warm when charging it, if it does, remove the replacement dock immediately and have it replaced

If all of the above checks out okay, you're good to go!

Questions?

Let us know below.

If the loud speaker in your iPhone 5c is not working, producing distorted sound, or cutting in and out, it is more than likely blown. If you're out of warranty, a DIY iPhone repair for this particular problem is relatively simple. It'll take you less than 45 minutes once you have the parts in your hands and will cost a fraction of the price of a new iPhone. And if you need help, that's what we're here for. We'll show you where to get the parts and tools you need, and how to replace a blown loud speaker all on your own!

What you need to replace an iPhone 5c loud speaker

iMore recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like iFixYouri. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• Replacement loud speaker
• Suction cup
• 5-point security screwdriver
• Standard #000 Phillips screwdriver
• Spudger tool
• Razor blade
• iSesamo Opening tool (not necessary but awesome for prying up cables and getting under adhesive)

1. Power off your iPhone 5c

Before performing any repair on any iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch you should always remember to power it off. Simply hold down on the Power button until you see Slide to Power off. One you're sure your iPhone is turned off, proceed to the next section.

2. Remove the two security screws on both sides of the dock connector

There are two security screws that secure the screen to the frame and they sit on each side of the dock connector. Use your 5-point security screwdriver to remove them. They are both the same size so it's okay if you mix them up.

3. Remove the display assembly

1. Place your suction cup slightly above the Home button assembly and secure it to the screen.

2. Holding the iPhone in place with one hand, gently pull upwards on the suction cup until you free the bottom of the screen. You should now be able to use your fingers to slowly raise up the screen and expose where the front assembly is connected to the logic board.
3. Remove the four screws holding down the shield that covers the display cables. To do this, use your #000 screwdriver. These screws are different sizes so make sure you keep them organized in a way you can remember for re-assembly.

4. Once all four screws are removed, carefully remove the shield and set it aside.

5. Now use your spudger tool in order to remove the three cables shown in the image below.

6. The display assembly should now be free from the body of the phone. Go ahead and set the display assembly aside.

4. Disconnect the battery

We don't need to completely remove the battery for this repair but it's always a good idea to disconnect the battery before removing and replacing internal components in order to prevent a short from occurring.

1. Remove the two screws holding down the battery cable using your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

2. Gently lift the battery shield out of your iPhone 5c and carefully set it aside.

3. Use your spudger tool to carefully pry up the battery cable.

4. That's it. We don't need to go any further. Just remember to keep track of the shield and what order the two screws came out.

5. Replace the blown loudspeaker

1. Start by carefully peeling up the adhesive shown in the photos below using your pry tool or iSesamo opening tool taking care not to tear it. This cable works in conjunction with your home button. It does not come completely out. You only want it to be detached from the speaker enclosure.

2. Now remove the three screws shown in the photo below using your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

3. Disconnect the small circular gold connector using your spudger tool. This is located under where you disconnected the battery. Pay attention to the adhesive that is holding it down. It's quite easy to break but take your time so you don't break the cable itself.

4. The speaker enclosure can now be lifted out of your iPhone 5c. Just take care not to snag the dock, logic board or any cables while removing it. The photo below shows the best way to grab hold of the speaker assembly.

5. Notice that there is an adhesive strip and screw hold on the speaker housing itself. If you order a replacement from the source I've linked above, the new one comes with this in tact. If you ordered elsewhere, you'll need to check and make sure this is in place. If it isn't, you'll need to peel it off the old enclosure and place it on the new one, or the speaker will not function properly.

6. There are contacts on the dock assembly that must make contact with the loud speaker for it to function. Take note of those below and make sure you position your new speaker accordingly.

7. Once the speaker assembly is lined up, replace the three screws you removed earlier in order to secure it down.

8. Replace the gold connector you removed earlier.

6. Re-connect the battery

1. Re-connect the battery cable that you pried up earlier.

2. Replace the battery cable shield.

3. Replace the two screws holding the battery cable down using your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

7. Re-connect the display assembly

1. Carefully reconnect the three cables running from the display assembly to the logic board.

2. Reposition the metal shield that sits over the three cables and replace the four screws that hold it in place, remembering where each one came from — they are all different sizes.

3. Line up the top of the screen carefully and make note of the teeth that line up to the top of your iPhone 5c's frame. Once the top of the display is lined up, carefully snap down the remainder by moving your fingers along the edge.

8. Replace the security screws on each side of the dock connector

Once you are confident that the display is seated correctly again, use your security screwdriver in order to replace the two screws on either side of the dock connector.

9. Test your new loudspeaker

Once you've turned your iPhone 5c back on, it's time to test the speaker enclosure. Follow these steps to do so:

• Play some music and make sure it sounds the way it should
• Place a call and test toggling between the earpiece and speakerphone
• Have someone call you to ensure your iPhone 5c rings correctly
• Test system sounds in the Settings app
• Plug in some headphones and make sure sound transfers between the two correctly

If all of the above checked out okay, your loudspeaker is good to go again!

Questions?

Let us know in the comments.

Not being able to listen to music, podcasts, and other kinds of audio is a complete bummer. Not only that, if your iPhone thinks headphones are plugged in when they aren't, a broken headphone jack can mess with sound through the speaker too. Other symptoms could include crackling or audio cutting in and out sporadically. If any of this sounds like something you're experiencing, a DIY iPhone repair can not only save the day, if you're out of warranty, it'll cost a heck of a lot less than a new iPhone.

Note: The headphone jack in the iPhone 5s is actually part of the dock assembly. This means you'll be replacing the entire bottom dock assembly in order to restore functionality.

What you need to DIY replace a broken iPhone 5s headphone jack port

You'll need some tools and parts in order to repair your iPhone 5s. iMore recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like iFixYouri. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• Replacement iPhone 5s dock
• Suction cup
• 5-point security screwdriver
• Standard #000 Phillips screwdriver
• Spudger tool
• Razor blade
• iSesamo Opening tool

1. Power off your iPhone 5s

Before performing any repair on any device, always remember to power it off. Simply hold down on the Power button until you see Slide to Power off. One you're sure your iPhone 5s is turned off, proceed to the next section.

2. Remove the two security screws on both sides of the dock connector

There are two security screws that secure your device's screen to its frame, and they sit on each side of the dock connector. Use your 5-point security screwdriver to remove them. They are both the same size, so it's okay if you mix them up.

3. Remove the display assembly

1. Place your suction cup slightly above the Home button assembly and secure it to the screen.

2. Holding the iPhone in place with one hand, gently pull upwards on the suction cup until you free the bottom of the screen. Do NOT pull up all the way at this point, as the cable that runs to the Touch ID sensor is still connected. You only want to separate the screen about an inch at this point.

3. Now that you have a clear view of the cables, use the pointed edge of your spudger tool in order to carefully remove the metal shield covering the Touch ID cable.

4. Make sure you don't lose the metal guard that covers the Touch ID connector.

5. Again, use the pointed edge of your spudger tool in order to disconnect Touch ID.

6. You can now safely swing the display up in order to see where it is connected to the board.
7. Remove the four screws holding down the shield that covers the display cables. To do this, use your #000 screwdriver.

8. Once all four screws are removed, carefully remove the shield and set it aside.

9. Now use your spudger tool in order to remove the three cables shown in the image below. You'll need to remove the two off to the far right in order to reveal the third and final cable, which sits below them.

10. The display assembly should now be free from the body of the phone. Go ahead and set the display assembly aside.

*Note: I recommend the suction cup method here, but if you can't get a firm grip with a suction cup, you can use a razor blade or the iSesamo opening tool. Carefully work your way around the bottom of the phone between the frame and display assembly with a razor blade or the iSesamo Opening Tool until you can gently pry up the screen using the flat end of your spudger tool. We recommend using plastic razor blades if you can find them, since they won't cause damage to the finish of the iPhone's frame.

4. Disconnect the battery

1. Remove the two screws holding down the battery cable using your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

2. Gently lift the battery shield out of your iPhone 5s and carefully set it aside.

3. Use your spudger tool to carefully pry up the battery cable.

This is as far as you need to go. It isn't necessary to completely remove the battery, but it's always a good idea to disconnect it before replacing any components. This prevents any shorts from happening if the Power button accidentally gets pushed during the course of a repair.

5. Remove the loudspeaker assembly

1. Remove the three screws outlined in the photo below using your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

2. Use the flat end of your spudger tool to lift up the right portion of the loudspeaker, as shown in the photo below. Just don't attempt to completely remove it.

3. Carefully use your fingers to maneuver the loudspeaker out of your iPhone's housing, taking note of the caution areas in the photo below.

4. Carefully examine the teeth on the bottom, as one slides underneath where the Touch ID sensor connects and the other goes underneath the bottom right of the logic board. Pay close attention to the circular antenna cable and how it sits in a small groove of the speaker assembly.

6. Replace the entire dock assembly, including headphone jack

1. Disconnect the two cables shown in the photo below using your spudger tool. One cable goes to the Lightning dock itself while the other is a round antenna cable.

2. Remove the five screws shown below that are holding the Lightning dock to the casing. Use your #000 Phillips screwdriver for this.

3. Take note of the location of each screw as they are all different sizes and are not interchangeable.
4. Starting at the top right by the cable connector, slowly start peeling back the adhesive until the cable itself is free.

5. The Lightning connector itself and the headphone jack are held in with a mild foam adhesive. You will need to pry them up slightly by using a spudger or iSesamo tool in order to separate it. Not much force is needed.

6. Flip up the rubber gasket shown in the photo below as well.

7. Now use the flat end of your spudger tool or the iSesamo opening tool to carefully pry the rest of the Lightning dock from the case.

8. Take note that there are tiny metal spacer rings that sit on the screw holds in the casing. Be careful not to lose these. You can see them in the photo below.

9. The last thing you'll need to do is transfer the Touch ID connector — which is highlighted below — to the new dock assembly. It's just held on with a bit of adhesive. Just take care not to tear any part of the Touch ID connector as doing so will cause Touch ID to fail to work, and this component can not be replaced.

10. To replace the dock connector, simply line up the rubber gasket, headphone jack, and Dock connector. Remove any adhesive backing on the new assembly before doing so.
11. Once the dock connector is fitted in place, replace the 5 screws you removed earlier and replace the earpiece speaker and the two screws holding it in place.

Once you've got the Dock connector in place, try plugging in a Lightning connector to ensure that it is lined up correctly. It also is not a bad idea to plug in a pair of headphones as well to be sure that it goes in with no resistance. This way, if something is aligned improperly, you can fix it before re-assembling the rest of the device.

If everything appears to be aligned correctly with the replacement, continue on to finish re-assembling your iPhone 5s.

7. Reconnect the battery

1. Reconnect the battery cable to the logic board.

2. Replace the battery shield and the two screws you removed earlier.

8. Replace the display assembly

1. Reconnect the three cables shown in the image below, starting with the cable to the far left, which sits underneath the other two.

2. Replace the display shield using the four screws and your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

3. Re-connect the Touch ID cable to the logic board. The easiest tool to help you do this is the pointed end of the spudger tool.

4. Replace the Touch ID shield that sits over the cable.

5. Carefully line up the top of the display into the top of the frame.
6. Snap down the display until it clicks into place.

If the display doesn't want to go back down, do NOT force it. Instead, be sure that the top is lined up correctly and that you aren't snagging any cables. There should be no resistance when snapping it back into place. If there is, you aren't lining it up correctly.

9. Replace the dock connector screws

Use your 5-point security screwdriver to replace the two dock connector screws that sit on either side of the dock.

10. Test the new dock and headphone jack

Once your iPhone 5s is completely re-assembled, not only will you need to check the headphone jack but the dock functions as well. In order to do so, complete the following tests:

• Plug your iPhone 5s into a charger and ensure it charges correctly. Monitor it for overheating.
• Plug in a pair of headphones and ensure you can hear through them.
• Turn the volume up and down with headphones plugged in and unplugged.
• Test sounds both from your ringer, loudspeaker on a call, and music or some other kind of audio.
• Listen to music or some kind of audio to ensure you don't hear any bad feedback. Also twist the headphones around in the socket to be sure that doesn't cause interference or issues.

If all of the above checks out okay, give yourself a pat on the back: You successfully fixed your iPhone 5s headphone jack!

Questions?

Let us know in the comments.

If you have an iPhone 5s that's out of warranty and won't charge, it's possible the dock assembly itself needs to be replaced. Symptoms of a bad dock can include a faulty headphone jack, inability to charge, Siri being activated randomly while plugged in, or iTunes not recognizing your iPhone 5s. If you have any of these symptoms, we can walk you through replacing the dock assembly for a fraction of the cost of a new iPhone.

What you need to DIY replace an iPhone 5s dock assembly

You'll need some tools and parts in order to repair your iPhone 5s. iMore recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like iFixYouri. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• Replacement iPhone 5s dock replacement
• Suction cup
• 5-point security screwdriver
• Standard #000 Phillips screwdriver
• Spudger tool
• Razor blade
• iSesamo Opening tool (not necessary but awesome for prying up cables and getting under adhesive)

1. Power off your iPhone 5s

Before performing any repair on any device, always remember to power it off. Simply hold down on the Power button until you see Slide to Power off. One you're sure your iPhone 5s is turned off, proceed to the next section.

2. Remove the two security screws on both sides of the dock connector

There are two security screws that secure your device's screen to its frame, and they sit on each side of the dock connector. Use your 5-point security screwdriver to remove them. They are both the same size, so it's okay if you mix them up.

3. Remove the display assembly

1. Place your suction cup slightly above the Home button assembly and secure it to the screen.

2. Holding the iPhone in place with one hand, gently pull upwards on the suction cup until you free the bottom of the screen. Do NOT pull up all the way at this point, as the cable that runs to the Touch ID sensor is still connected. You only want to separate the screen about an inch at this point.

3. Now that you have a clear view of the cables, use the pointed edge of your spudger tool in order to carefully remove the metal shield covering the Touch ID cable.

4. Make sure you don't lose the metal guard that covers the Touch ID connector.

5. Again, use the pointed edge of your spudger tool in order to disconnect Touch ID.

6. You can now safely swing the display up in order to see where it is connected to the board.
7. Remove the four screws holding down the shield that covers the display cables. To do this, use your #000 screwdriver.

8. Once all four screws are removed, carefully remove the shield and set it aside.

9. Now use your spudger tool in order to remove the three cables shown in the image below. You'll need to remove the two off to the far right in order to reveal the third and final cable, which sits below them.

10. The display assembly should now be free from the body of the phone. Go ahead and set the display assembly aside.

*Note: I recommend the suction cup method here, but if you can't get a firm grip with a suction cup, you can use a razor blade or the iSesamo opening tool. Carefully work your way around the bottom of the phone between the frame and display assembly with a razor blade or the iSesamo Opening Tool until you can gently pry up the screen using the flat end of your spudger tool. We recommend using plastic razor blades if you can find them, since they won't cause damage to the finish of the iPhone's frame.

4. Disconnect the battery

1. Remove the two screws holding down the battery cable using your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

2. Gently lift the battery shield out of your iPhone 5s and carefully set it aside.

3. Use your spudger tool to carefully pry up the battery cable.

This is as far as you need to go. It isn't necessary to completely remove the battery, but it's always a good idea to disconnect it before replacing any components. This prevents any shorts from happening if the Power button accidentally gets pushed during the course of a repair.

5. Remove the loudspeaker assembly

1. Remove the three screws outlined in the photo below using your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

2. Use the flat end of your spudger tool to lift up the right portion of the loudspeaker, as shown in the photo below. Just don't attempt to completely remove it.

3. Carefully use your fingers to maneuver the loudspeaker out of your iPhone's housing, taking note of the caution areas in the photo below.

4. Carefully examine the teeth on the bottom, as one slides underneath where the Touch ID sensor connects and the other goes underneath the bottom right of the logic board. Pay close attention to the circular antenna cable and how it sits in a small groove of the speaker assembly.

6. Replace the Lightning dock

1. Disconnect the two cables shown in the photo below using your spudger tool. One cable goes to the Lightning dock itself while the other is a round antenna cable.

2. Remove the five screws shown below that are holding the Lightning dock to the casing. Use your #000 Phillips screwdriver for this.

3. Take note of the location of each screw as they are all different sizes and are not interchangeable.
4. Starting at the top right by the cable connector, slowly start peeling back the adhesive until the cable itself is free.

5. The Lightning connector itself and the headphone jack are held in with a mild foam adhesive. You will need to pry them up slightly by using a spudger or iSesamo tool in order to separate it. Not much force is needed.

6. Flip up the rubber gasket shown in the photo below as well.

7. Now use the flat end of your spudger tool or the iSesamo opening tool to carefully pry the rest of the Lightning dock from the case.

8. Take note that there are tiny metal spacer rings that sit on the screw holds in the casing. Be careful not to lose these. You can see them in the photo below.

9. The last thing you'll need to do is transfer the Touch ID connector — which is highlighted below — to the new dock assembly. It's just held on with a bit of adhesive. Just take care not to tear any part of the Touch ID connector as doing so will cause Touch ID to fail to work, and this component can not be replaced.

10. To replace the dock connector, simply line up the rubber gasket, headphone jack, and Dock connector. Remove any adhesive backing on the new assembly before doing so.
11. Once the dock connector is fitted in place, replace the 5 screws you removed earlier and replace the earpiece speaker and the two screws holding it in place.

Once you've got the Dock connector in place, try plugging in a Lightning connector to ensure that it is lined up correctly. It also is not a bad idea to plug in a pair of headphones as well to be sure that it goes in with no resistance. This way, if something is aligned improperly, you can fix it before re-assembling the rest of the device.

If everything appears to be aligned correctly with the replacement, continue on to finish re-assembling your iPhone 5s.

7. Reconnect the battery

1. Reconnect the battery cable to the logic board.

2. Replace the battery shield and the two screws you removed earlier.

8. Replace the display assembly

1. Reconnect the three cables shown in the image below, starting with the cable to the far left, which sits underneath the other two.

2. Replace the display shield using the four screws and your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

3. Re-connect the Touch ID cable to the logic board. The easiest tool to help you do this is the pointed end of the spudger tool.

4. Replace the Touch ID shield that sits over the cable.

5. Carefully line up the top of the display into the top of the frame.
6. Snap down the display until it clicks into place.

If the display doesn't want to go back down, do NOT force it. Instead, be sure that the top is lined up correctly and that you aren't snagging any cables. There should be no resistance when snapping it back into place. If there is, you aren't lining it up correctly.

9. Replace the dock connector screws

Use your 5-point security screwdriver to replace the two dock connector screws that sit on either side of the dock.

9. Test the new dock assembly

Once your iPhone 5s is completely re-assembled, perform the following actions to fully test the new dock assembly:

• Plug your iPhone 5s into a charger and ensure it charges correctly. Monitor it for overheating.
• Plug in a pair of headphones and ensure you can hear through them.
• Test sounds both from your ringer, loud speaker on a call, and music or some other kind of audio.

If all of the above checks out okay, you're good to go!

The Home button on your iPhone 5s provides two main functions; it serves as a way to authenticate Touch ID and more important, as a way for you to return to your Home screen, exit apps, access multitasking, and more.

If you can no longer click your Home button, or pressing it does nothing, it's possible the cable itself — or a contact on it — needs to be replaced. Here's how to do it!

What you need to know about Touch ID and Home button replacements: When the iPhone 5s was released, we quickly realized that the Touch ID sensor cable itself was tied to the logic board. And since this cable is one in the same with the Home button flex cable, replacing the cable will render Touch ID unusable. This is something you'll definitely need to keep in mind. If Home button functionality is important to you and you're okay bypassing the ability to use Touch ID in order to save some money on the cost of a new iPhone, continue on. If not, consider going to Apple or an authorized service provider for your repair.

What you need to perform a DIY Home button repair on iPhone 5s

You'll need some tools and parts in order to repair your iPhone 5s, including the replacement assembly. iMore recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like iFixYouri. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• Replacement iPhone 5s Home flex cable
• Suction cup
• 5-point security screwdriver
• Standard #000 Phillips screwdriver
• Spudger tool
• Razor blade
• iSesamo Opening tool (not necessary but awesome for prying up cables and getting under adhesive)

1. Power off your iPhone 5s

Before performing any repair on any device, always remember to power it off. Simply hold down on the Power button until you see Slide to Power off. One you're sure your iPhone 5s is turned off, proceed to the next section.

2. Remove the two security screws on both sides of the dock connector

There are two security screws that secure the screen to the frame and they sit on each side of the dock connector. Use your 5-point security screwdriver to remove them. They are both the same size so it's okay if you mix them up.

3. Remove the display display assembly

1. Place your suction cup slightly above the Home button assembly and secure it to the screen.

2. Holding the iPhone in place with one hand, gently pull upwards on the suction cup until you free the bottom of the screen but do NOT pull up all the way at this point as a cable running to the Touch ID sensor is still connected. You only want to separate the screen about an inch at this point.

3. Now that you have a clear view of the cables, use the pointed edge of your spudger tool in order to carefully remove the metal shield covering the Touch ID cable.

4. Make sure you don't lose the metal guard that covers the Touch ID connector.

5. Again, use the pointed edge of your spudger tool in order to disconnect Touch ID.

6. You can now safely swing the display up more in order to see where it is connected to the board.
7. Remove the four screws holding down the shield that covers the display cables. To do this, use your #000 screwdriver.

8. Once all four screws are removed, carefully remove the shield and set it aside.

9. Now use your spudger tool in order to remove the three cables shown in the image below. You'll need to remove the two off to the far right in order to reveal the third and final cable, which sits below them.

10. The display assembly should now be free from the body of the phone. Go ahead and set everything but the display assembly aside now.

Note: We used the suction cup method here but if you are not able to get a firm grip with a suction cup you can carefully work your way around the bottom of the phone between the frame and display assembly with a razor blade until you can gently pry up using the flat end of your spudger tool instead. We recommend using plastic razor blades if you can find them since they won't cause damage to the finish of the iPhone's frame.

4. Replace the Home button flex

1. Remove the top right screw holding the Touch ID cable in place using your #000 screwdriver. There is a tiny metal guard underneath, make sure you hold it in place so the cable doesn't spin or tear underneath it. Also make note of the orientation of this guard as you'll need to replace it again during re-assembly.

2. Once you've gotten the top screw out and set that and the guard aside, you can fold back part of the Touch ID cable in order to remove the two screws holding in the shield that sits above the Home button. Again, use your #000 screwdriver.

3. You can now remove the metal shield and set it aside.

4. Lastly, very carefully use your spudger tool to start prying up the Home button assembly which is held in with a bit of adhesive. Be careful doing this as it's easy to tear cables that run to the Touch ID sensor.

5. Once you've broken all the adhesive under the Home button gasket, the entire Home button assembly should lift out of the screen assembly, Touch ID still attached. If you're having issues removing the gasket, try heating up the button slightly to break the adhesive.

6. Now simply swap the new Home button flex in the old one's place. If you ordered the parts I've recommended above from eTech, the home button is already in place. If you ordered from elsewhere and got only a flex, you'll have to transfer the Home button and gasket over to the new flex. Just be careful not to tear the gasket while doing this.

5. Replace the display assembly

1. Reconnect the three cables shown in the image below, starting with the cable to the far left, which sits underneath the other two.

2. Replace the display shield using the four screws and your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

3. Re-connect the Touch ID cable to the logic board. The easiest tool to help you do this is the pointed end of the spudger tool.

4. Replace the Touch ID shield that sits over the cable.

5. Carefully line up the top of the display into the top of the frame.
6. Snap down the display until it clicks into place.

If the display doesn't want to go back down, do NOT force it. Instead, be sure that the top is lined up correctly and that you aren't snagging any cables. There should be no resistance when snapping it back into place. If there is, you aren't lining it up correctly.

6. Replace the dock connector screws

Use your 5-point security screwdriver to replace the two dock connector screws that sit on either side of the dock.

7. Test your iPhone 5s Home button

Once you've got your iPhone 5s fully assembled, you can go ahead and power it back on. After it boots up, perform the following steps to test the new Home button:

• Hold down the Home button and ensure Siri activates properly
• Double tap and triple tap to ensure those actions work
• Make sure you can enter and exit apps as you should be able to with a single tap
• Hold down the power and Home to make sure your iPhone 5s reboots correctly

If everything tests out okay, you're good to go.

Questions?

Let us know below.

iPhones have always been prone to Home button issues and the iPhone 5c isn't any exception. Since it's the most used button, it's not uncommon that it should wear over time. However, if you're out of warranty and not ready for a new iPhone, a replacement could cost a few hundred dollars. Luckily, a DIY Home button replacement on an iPhone 5c isn't very hard at all and only costs a couple bucks. So if your Home button isn't registering presses anymore or doesn't work as good as it should, follow along and we'll help you replace it!

The Home button itself isn't normally the problem. It's the Home button cable that wears over time and results in it becoming less responsive or failing altogether. So that's the part we'll be looking at replacing in this guide.

What you need to DIY repair a bad Home button in an iPhone 5c

You'll need some tools and parts in order to repair your iPhone 5c, including a new Home button cable. iMore recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like iFixYouri. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• Replacement iPhone 5c Home button cable
• Suction cup
• 5-point security screwdriver
• Standard #000 Phillips screwdriver
• Spudger tool
• Razor blade
• iSesamo Opening tool (not necessary but awesome for prying up cables and getting under adhesive)

Power off your iPhone

Before performing any repair on any iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch you should always remember to power it off. Simply hold down on the Power button until you see Slide to Power off. One you're sure your iPhone is turned off, proceed to the next section.

Remove the two security screws on both sides of the dock connector

There are two security screws that secure the screen to the frame and they sit on each side of the dock connector. Use your 5-point security screwdriver to remove them. They are both the same size so it's okay if you mix them up.

Remove the display assembly

1. Place your suction cup slightly above the Home button assembly and secure it to the screen.

2. Holding the iPhone in place with one hand, gently pull upwards on the suction cup until you free the bottom of the screen. You should now be able to use your fingers to slowly raise up the screen and expose where the front assembly is connected to the logic board.
3. Remove the four screws holding down the shield that covers the display cables. To do this, use your #000 screwdriver. These screws are different sizes so make sure you keep them organized in a way you can remember for re-assembly.

4. Once all four screws are removed, carefully remove the shield and set it aside.

5. Now use your spudger tool in order to remove the three cables shown in the image below.

6. The display assembly should now be free from the body of the phone. Go ahead and set everything but the display assembly aside now.

Note: We used the suction cup method here but if you can't get a firm grip with a suction cup, carefully work your way around the bottom of the phone between the frame and display assembly with a razor blade until you can gently pry up using the flat end of your spudger tool instead. We recommend using plastic razor blades if you can find them since they're less abrasive and won't scratch the finish of the display or the casing.

Replace the Home button assembly

1. Remove the two screws shown below using your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

2. Use your iSesamo opening tool or a flat end of a razor blade to peel off the cable attached to the shield.

3. Peel the cable off the shield and replace it with the new one making sure the alignment is correct.
4. Screw down the Home button shield and stick the new cable down to the front of the assembly like you found the old one.
5. Test the Home button by pressing it to ensure that it depresses correctly and feels okay.

5. Re-connect the display assembly

1. Carefully reconnect the three cables running from the display assembly to the logic board.

2. Reposition the metal shield that sits over the three cables and replace the four screws that hold it in place, remembering where each one came from — they are all different sizes.

3. Line up the top of the screen carefully and make note of the teeth that line up to the top of your iPhone 5c's frame. Once the top of the display is lined up, carefully snap down the remainder by moving your fingers along the edge.

6. Replace the security screws on each side of the dock connector

Once you are confident that the display is seated correctly again, use your security screwdriver in order to replace the two screws on either side of the dock connector.

7. Test the new Home button cable

In order to test the Home button cable, do the following:

• Single press while inside of apps to make sure you get returned to the Home screen
• Long press to make sure Siri launches
• Double and triple click to make sure these functions work as well
• Press and hold the Home and Power buttons to ensure your iPhone reboots as it should

If all the above functions check out okay, you're good to go!

If your rear iSight camera on your iPhone isn't working or you're taking photos that show obvious defects, it's possible that the camera assembly is defective or damaged. Typical symptoms of a broken or defective iSight camera include a blacked out screen, purple or blue blemishes, and lines going through the screen.

Which iPhone you have will dictate the difficulty of a DIY repair. Luckily, we've got the guides you need to get the job done from start to finish!

• How to replace the rear iSight camera in an iPhone 5s
• How to replace the rear iSight camera in an iPhone 5c
• How to replace the rear iSight camera in an iPhone 5
• How to replace the rear iSight camera in an iPhone 4s
• How to replace the rear iSight camera in an iPhone 4
• How to replace the rear iSight camera in an iPhone 3G or 3GS

How to replace the rear iSight camera in an iPhone 5s

The iPhone 5s camera is for some reason prone to some of the same purple haze or blemish issues that the iPhone 5 was prone to. Other symptoms of a busted iSight camera in an iPhone 5s could include the camera app freezing completely upon launching it, not being able to switch back and forth between the front-facing and rear camera, lines through images, or even blacked out images. If you have any of these symptoms, you probably need to replace the rear camera assembly. Luckily, the iPhone 5s camera actually attaches to the top of the board instead of the bottom, making it a fairly straight forward and simple repair.

• How to DIY replace the rear iSight camera in an iPhone 5s

How to replace the rear iSight camera in an iPhone 5c

While the iPhone 5c may contain almost the same exact camera as the iPhone 5, the repair process is actually quite different. Luckily, if you own an iPhone 5c, that's a good thing. Much like the iPhone 5s, the camera attaches from the top of the board, instead of the bottom like the iPhone 5. This should make swapping out a defective iPhone 5c camera pretty simple for most folks. Like any other iPhone model, symptoms of a bad rear facing camera in an iPhone 5c include lines through photos, blacked out pictures in your Photos app, blemishes that are purple or blue in color in photos, and even the Camera app itself not being able to open. If you're having any of these issues, a camera replacement is a good idea.

• How to replace the rear iSight camera in an iPhone 5c

How to replace the rear iSight camera in an iPhone 5

The iPhone 5 has been one of the only iPhone models that seems overly prone to camera issues with many users reporting purple blemishes on photos. You can easily verify you have this issue by launching the Camera app and aiming your iPhone 5 at a white surface. If you see a purple blemish somewhere on the screen, it's a defect in the lens and will need to be replaced. Other issues could also include extreme fringing or lens flare, which could signal that the camera needs to be reseated correctly inside the housing. Regardless of the issue, we can walk you through how to replace the entire assembly on your own.

• How to replace the rear iSight camera in an iPhone 5

How to replace a broken rear camera in an iPhone 4s

The iPhone 4s rear camera is a pretty simple repair to perform. First you'll need to be sure that you are replacing the correct part. If the lens cover itself is cracked, you actually need to replace the back panel, which is even easier. However, if you're experiencing other issues such as pixelated images, lines through the screen, or the camera shutter won't open at all and freezes when you launch the Camera app, you'll need a replacement camera assembly. Luckily, that isn't that hard to replace either. Hit the links below for both guides to determine which repair you need.

• How to replace the rear camera assembly in an iPhone 4s
• How to replace the back panel and lens cover in an iPhone 4s

How to replace the rear camera in an iPhone 4

The iPhone 4 is very similar to the iPhone 4s and contains a camera assembly that is replaced almost the exact same way. Actually, the same symptoms are normally present with an iPhone 4. And just like before, if the camera is hazy or the lens cover is cracked, you'll need to replace the back cover, not the actual camera assembly itself. Hit the guides below to determine which you need to replace.

• How to replace the rear camera in a GSM or CDMA iPhone 4
• How to replace the back panel and lens cover in an iPhone 4

How to replace the rear camera in an iPhone 3G or iPhone 3GS

If you've still got an iPhone 3G or iPhone 3GS laying around, a replacement camera is pretty cheap nowadays. While there didn't seem to be too many complains about the iPhone 3G or iPhone 3GS camera, it was possible to dislodge it or for the lens itself to break due to a bad fall. If you feel like tinkering, the iPhone 3G and iPhone 3GS aren't very hard to DIY repair. We can walk you step by step through a camera replacement, complete with links to parts.

• How to replace the rear camera in an iPhone 3G or iPhone 3GS

Questions?

Don't have a broken camera but need to fix something else? We've got those guides, too! Check out our DIY guides for everything you'd want to know about repairing your iPhone, iPad, or Mac.

If you have an iPhone 5s that doesn't produce any sound over its loudspeaker but still functions through the earpiece, it's possible that your loudspeaker is either defective or blown; other symptoms can include low volume or crackling audio.

If you're experiencing any of these issues and you're out of warranty, a DIY iPhone repair isn't terribly hard and can save you a lot of cash compared to buying a new iPhone. So if you've got a steady hand and want to attempt the repair yourself, follow along and we'll walk you through where to get quality replacement parts and how to replace your loudspeaker all on your own!

What you need to DIY replace an iPhone 5s loudspeaker

You'll need some tools and parts in order to repair your iPhone 5s. iMore recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like iFixYouri. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• Replacement iPhone 5s loud speaker
• Suction cup
• 5-point security screwdriver
• Standard #000 Phillips screwdriver
• Spudger tool
• Razor blade
• iSesamo Opening tool (not necessary but awesome for prying up cables and getting under adhesive)

1. Power off your iPhone 5s

Before performing any repair on any device, always remember to power it off. Simply hold down on the Power button until you see Slide to Power off. One you're sure your iPhone 5s is turned off, proceed to the next section.

2. Remove the two security screws on both sides of the dock connector

There are two security screws that secure the screen to the frame and they sit on each side of the dock connector. Use your 5-point security screwdriver to remove them. They are both the same size so it's okay if you mix them up.

3. Remove the display assembly

1. Place your suction cup slightly above the Home button assembly and secure it to the screen.

2. Holding the iPhone in place with one hand, gently pull upwards on the suction cup until you free the bottom of the screen but do NOT pull up all the way at this point as a cable running to the Touch ID sensor is still connected. You only want to separate the screen about an inch at this point.

3. Now that you have a clear view of the cables, use the pointed edge of your spudger tool in order to carefully remove the metal shield covering the Touch ID cable.

4. Make sure you don't lose the metal guard that covers the Touch ID connector.

5. Again, use the pointed edge of your spudger tool in order to disconnect Touch ID.

6. You can now safely swing the display up more in order to see where it is connected to the board.
7. Remove the four screws holding down the shield that covers the display cables. To do this, use your #000 screwdriver.

8. Once all four screws are removed, carefully remove the shield and set it aside.

9. Now use your spudger tool in order to remove the three cables shown in the image below. You'll need to remove the two off to the far right in order to reveal the third and final cable, which sits below them.

10. The display assembly should now be free from the body of the phone. Go ahead and set the display assembly aside.

Note: We used the suction cup method here but note that if you can't get a firm grip with a suction cup, you can use a razor blade or the iSesamo opening tool. Carefully work your way around the bottom of the phone between the frame and display assembly with a razor blade or the iSesamo Opening Tool until you can gently pry up using the flat end of your spudger tool. We recommend using plastic razor blades if you can find them since they won't cause damage to the finish of the iPhone's frame.

4. Disconnect the battery

1. Remove the two screws holding down the battery cable using your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

2. Gently lift the battery shield out of your iPhone 5s and carefully set it aside.

3. Use your spudger tool to carefully pry up the battery cable.

This is as far as you need to go. It isn't necessary to completely remove the battery, but it's always a good idea to disconnect it before replacing any components to prevent any shorts from happening if the Power button accidentally gets pushed during the course of a repair.

5. Replace the loud speaker assembly

1. Remove the three screws outlined in the photo below using your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

2. Use the flat end of your spudger tool to lift up the right hand portion of the loud speaker, as shown in the photo below. Just don't attempt to completely remove it.

3. Carefully use your fingers to maneuver the loud speaker out of your iPhone's housing, taking note of the caution areas in the photo below.

4. Replace the speaker assembly. Carefully examine the teeth on the bottom, as one slides underneath where Touch ID connects and the other underneath the bottom right of the logic board. Again, take care of the round cable and the groove its wire should fit in on the loud speaker.

6. Reconnect the battery

1. Reconnect the battery cable to the logic board.

2. Replace the battery shield and the two screws you removed earlier.

7. Replace the display assembly

1. Reconnect the three cables shown in the image below, starting with the cable to the far left, which sits underneath the other two.

2. Replace the display shield using the four screws and your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

3. Re-connect the Touch ID cable to the logic board. The easiest tool to help you do this is the pointed end of the spudger tool.

4. Replace the Touch ID shield that sits over the cable.

5. Carefully line up the top of the display into the top of the frame.
6. Snap down the display until it clicks into place.

If the display doesn't want to go back down, do NOT force it. Instead, be sure that the top is lined up correctly and that you aren't snagging any cables. There should be no resistance when snapping it back into place. If there is, you aren't lining it up correctly.

8. Replace the dock connector screws

Use your 5-point security screwdriver to replace the two dock connector screws that sit on either side of the dock.

9. Test the new loudspeaker

In order to test the loudspeaker, perform the following steps:

• Place a call on speakerphone
• Play music through the speakers
• Plug in headphones and make sure transferring from the loudspeaker to headphones works okay
• Turn the volume all the way up to be sure you don't hear any distortion

If all of the above checks out okay, you're good to go!

Questions?

Let us know in the comments.

If you're having issues with the rear iSight camera in your iPhone 5c, it's possible a replacement could fix the issue. A bad rear camera assembly could have many different symptoms. The most common is spots or purple haze showing up in photos. If the spot is always in the same place, the assembly is defective. If the shutter won't open or your Camera app freezes, that could also indicate a bad camera. Other symptoms include lines through photos, hazy or unfocused shots, and blacked out photos showing up in the Photos app. Luckily a camera replacement in the iPhone 5c isn't terribly difficult. We can walk you through how to get replacement parts and how to perform this relatively easy iPhone repair all on your own! The best part? It'll cost a fraction of what a new iPhone would cost!

What you need to replace an iPhone 5c iSight camera

You'll need some tools and parts in order to repair your iPhone 5c. iMore recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like iFixYouri. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• Replacement camera
• Suction cup
• 5-point security screwdriver
• Standard #000 Phillips screwdriver
• Spudger tool
• Razor blade
• iSesamo Opening tool (not necessary but awesome for prying up cables and getting under adhesive)

1. Power off your iPhone 5c

Before performing any repair on any iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch you should always remember to power it off. Simply hold down on the Power button until you see Slide to Power off. One you're sure your iPhone is turned off, proceed to the next section.

2. Remove the two security screws on both sides of the dock connector

There are two security screws that secure the screen to the frame and they sit on each side of the dock connector. Use your 5-point security screwdriver to remove them. They are both the same size so it's okay if you mix them up.

3. Remove the display assembly

1. Place your suction cup slightly above the Home button assembly and secure it to the screen.

2. Holding the iPhone in place with one hand, gently pull upwards on the suction cup until you free the bottom of the screen. You should now be able to use your fingers to slowly raise up the screen and expose where the front assembly is connected to the logic board.
3. Remove the four screws holding down the shield that covers the display cables. To do this, use your #000 screwdriver. These screws are different sizes so make sure you keep them organized in a way you can remember for re-assembly.

4. Once all four screws are removed, carefully remove the shield and set it aside.

5. Now use your spudger tool in order to remove the three cables shown in the image below.

6. The display assembly should now be free from the body of the phone. Go ahead and set the display assembly aside.

4. Disconnect the battery

We don't need to completely remove the battery for this repair but it's always a good idea to disconnect the battery before removing and replacing internal components in order to prevent a short from occurring.

1. Remove the two screws holding down the battery cable using your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

2. Gently lift the battery shield out of your iPhone 5c and carefully set it aside.

3. Use your spudger tool to carefully pry up the battery cable.

5. Replace the rear iSight camera

1. Use your #000 Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the camera assembly and shield in place.

2. Use the flat end of your spudger tool to pop up the single connector holding the camera assembly to the main board.

3. Lift the camera assembly and shield straight out of your iPhone 5c.

4. The silver metal shield should easily come off your iPhone 5c's old camera if pulled lightly.

5. Peel off any protective backing on the new camera assembly. Take care not to touch the lens and don't get dust in the camera recess of your iPhone 5c or you'll have to remove it and clean it later.
6. Place the new camera assembly into your iPhone 5c. Take care not to shove it and take note of the cable fold in the old camera assembly as you may have to create the fold yourself on the new assembly.
7. Replace the metal shield over the new camera assembly.

8. Replace the two screws you removed in step one using your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

6. Re-connect the battery

1. Re-connect the battery cable that you pried up earlier.

2. Replace the battery cable shield.

3. Replace the two screws holding the battery cable down using your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

7. Re-connect the display assembly

1. Carefully reconnect the three cables running from the display assembly to the logic board.

2. Reposition the metal shield that sits over the three cables and replace the four screws that hold it in place, remembering where each one came from — they are all different sizes.

3. Line up the top of the screen carefully and make note of the teeth that line up to the top of your iPhone 5c's frame. Once the top of the display is lined up, carefully snap down the remainder by moving your fingers along the edge.

8. Replace the security screws on each side of the dock connector

Once you are confident that the display is seated correctly again, use your security screwdriver in order to replace the two screws on either side of the dock connector.

9. Test the new iSight camera

It's now safe to turn your iPhone 5c back on. If all went well, you should see an Apple logo. Once your iPhone finishes booting up, perform the following steps to verify the new iSight camera is now working properly:

• Snap a photo of a white piece of paper or surface and check for discoloration and spots
• Snap a photo of a black piece of paper or surface and check for discoloration and spots again
• Toggle between the front facing and rear camera to make sure they behave and function normally
• Take a photo with the flash on to ensure the flash functions properly
• Test out other camera modes and try recording a short video and make sure audio comes through properly as well
• Test FaceTime video functionality with both the front and rear cameras
• Tap to focus on different areas to ensure focus is working properly

If all of the above checked out okay, you're good to go and can get back to snapping photos again!

Have an iPhone 5s with a busted front-facing camera? Whether you have lines through the screen when trying to take selfies or the camera just won't seem to turn around, all of these can be signs that it needs to be replaced. Luckily, since it's simply attached to the front display, replacing an iPhone 5s FaceTime camera is a relatively easy iPhone DIY repair to perform on your own. Not only can we walk you through step-by-step, we can also link you to high quality parts and tools to get the job done right!

What you need to replace an iPhone 5s front-facing camera

You'll need some tools and parts in order to repair your iPhone 5s. If you're in the United States or Canada, we highly recommend checking out eTech Parts as we've had lots of good experiences with them and know their customer service is out of this world. All the links below will route you to the direct item on eTech's site.

• Replacement front-facing camera - Buy now
• Suction cup - Buy now
• 5-point security screwdriver - Buy now
• Standard #000 Phillips screwdriver - Buy now
• Spudger tool - Buy now
• Razor blade - Buy Now
• iSesamo Opening tool (not necessary but awesome for prying up cables and getting under adhesive) - Buy Now

Power off your iPhone 5s

Before performing any repair on any device, always remember to power it off. Simply hold down on the Power button until you see Slide to Power off. One you're sure your iPhone 5s is turned off, proceed to the next section.

Remove the two security screws on both sides of the dock connector

There are two security screws that secure the screen to the frame and they sit on each side of the dock connector. Use your 5-point security screwdriver to remove them. They are both the same size so it's okay if you mix them up.

Remove the display assembly

1. Place your suction cup slightly above the Home button assembly and secure it to the screen.

2. Holding the iPhone in place with one hand, gently pull upwards on the suction cup until you free the bottom of the screen but do NOT pull up all the way at this point as a cable running to the Touch ID sensor is still connected. You only want to separate the screen about an inch at this point.

3. Now that you have a clear view of the cables, use the pointed edge of your spudger tool in order to carefully remove the metal shield covering the Touch ID cable.

4. Make sure you don't lose the metal guard that covers the Touch ID connector.

5. Again, use the pointed edge of your spudger tool in order to disconnect Touch ID.

6. You can now safely swing the display up more in order to see where it is connected to the board.
7. Remove the four screws holding down the shield that covers the display cables. To do this, use your #000 screwdriver.

8. Once all four screws are removed, carefully remove the shield and set it aside.

9. Now use your spudger tool in order to remove the three cables shown in the image below. You'll need to remove the two off to the far right in order to reveal the third and final cable, which sits below them.

10. The display assembly should now be free from the body of the phone. Go ahead and set everything but the display assembly aside.

Note: We used the suction cup method here but note that if you can't get a firm grip with a suction cup, you can use a razor blade or the iSesamo opening tool. Carefully work your way around the bottom of the phone between the frame and display assembly with a razor blade or the iSesamo Opening Tool until you can gently pry up using the flat end of your spudger tool. We recommend using plastic razor blades if you can find them since they won't cause damage to the finish of the iPhone's frame.

2. Remove the earpiece

1. Remove the two screws holding in the earpiece speaker and bracket using your #000 screwdriver.

2. Carefully loosen the earpiece bracket and lift it upwards. Note that there are clips on each side that you may need to bend outwards slightly in order for the bracket and earpiece to come out. Don't pull hard as you may break or bend the bracket.

3. Set the earpiece and bracket aside.

3. Replace the front-facing camera and sensor cable assembly

1. Starting on the right side of the camera cable, which is the portion that sits underneath the earpiece contacts, slowly start prying up using either a pry tool or an iSesamo Opening Tool. If you have a heat gun, you may use it for only a few seconds to heat up the adhesive on the underside of the cable, but it really isn't necessary as it's a very weak adhesive. You can turn the digitizer assembly upside down as shown in the photos in order to obtain a better angle when prying.

2. Once the adhesive is broken, the right side of the cable should be free.
3. The camera cable is still attached my a mic hole, so pry it up using your spudger tool as shown in the photo below.

4. Take care to separate the digitizer cable from the camera assembly cable.

5. Pull the camera cable lose from the digitizer assembly by peeling off the adhesive attached to the display shield.

6. Take note of any cable folds and duplicate them on the new assembly.
7. Follow these instruction in reverse in order to replace the camera assembly.

6. Replace the earpiece

1. Reposition the earpiece speaker and bracket onto the back of the display assembly.
2. Replace the two screws holding it in place using your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

7. Replace the display assembly

1. Reconnect the three cables shown in the image below, starting with the cable to the far left, which sits underneath the other two.

2. Replace the display shield using the four screws and your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

3. Re-connect the Touch ID cable to the logic board. The easiest tool to help you do this is the pointed end of the spudger tool.

4. Replace the Touch ID shield that sits over the cable.

5. Carefully line up the top of the display into the top of the frame.
6. Snap down the display until it clicks into place.

If the display doesn't want to go back down, do NOT force it. Instead, be sure that the top is lined up correctly and that you aren't snagging any cables. There should be no resistance when snapping it back into place. If there is, you aren't lining it up correctly. Also make sure the earpiece is installed correctly. If it isn't completely flush, this can cause the assembly to not lay flat in the body of your iPhone 5s.

8. Replace the dock connector screws

Use your 5-point security screwdriver to replace the two dock connector screws that sit on either side of the dock.

9. Test the new front-facing camera

After you've finished assembling your iPhone 5s, it's safe to turn it on. In order to test the new front-facing camera, I recommend you perform the following steps:

• Toggle between the front and rear facing cameras to make sure both are working and switching properly
• Take photos in both low light and bright light to be sure the camera is back to working properly
• Test the ambient light sensor — simply go in a dark room and make sure your brightness adjusts accordingly
• Test the proximity sensor — place a test call and hold your finger over the sensor to ensure the screen goes off, just as it would when it's against your face
• Test the earpiece while on a call to verify it was placed correctly and it making contact with the new camera sensor cable

If all of the above checked out okay, you're good to go!

See also:

• How to replace a cracked screen on an iPhone 5s
• All DIY repair guides

If you're having issues with the rear iSight camera in your iPhone 5s, a DIY repair is always an option, and in this particular case, it's not a terribly hard one either. Symptoms of a defective rear camera include purple spots on the lens that shows up in photos, lines through photos, issues with the Camera app freezing and never opening, and even blacked out photos appearing in the Photos app. Regardless what symptom you're experiencing, we can walk you through how to replace the camera in your iPhone 5s in less than 60 minutes, and for far less money than what a new iPhone would cost.

What you need to DIY replace an iPhone 5s rear camera

You'll need some tools and parts in order to repair your iPhone 5s. iMore recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like iFixYouri. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• Replacement iPhone 5s rear camera
• Suction cup
• 5-point security screwdriver
• Standard #000 Phillips screwdriver
• Spudger tool
• Razor blade
• iSesamo Opening tool (not necessary but awesome for prying up cables and getting under adhesive)

1. Power off your iPhone 5s

Before performing any repair on any device, always remember to power it off. Simply hold down on the Power button until you see Slide to Power off. One you're sure your iPhone 5s is turned off, proceed to the next section.

2. Remove the two security screws on both sides of the dock connector

There are two security screws that secure the screen to the frame and they sit on each side of the dock connector. Use your 5-point security screwdriver to remove them. They are both the same size so it's okay if you mix them up.

3. Remove the display assembly

1. Place your suction cup slightly above the Home button assembly and secure it to the screen.

2. Holding the iPhone in place with one hand, gently pull upwards on the suction cup until you free the bottom of the screen but do NOT pull up all the way at this point as a cable running to the Touch ID sensor is still connected. You only want to separate the screen about an inch at this point.

3. Now that you have a clear view of the cables, use the pointed edge of your spudger tool in order to carefully remove the metal shield covering the Touch ID cable.

4. Make sure you don't lose the metal guard that covers the Touch ID connector.

5. Again, use the pointed edge of your spudger tool in order to disconnect Touch ID.

6. You can now safely swing the display up more in order to see where it is connected to the board.
7. Remove the four screws holding down the shield that covers the display cables. To do this, use your #000 screwdriver.

8. Once all four screws are removed, carefully remove the shield and set it aside.

9. Now use your spudger tool in order to remove the three cables shown in the image below. You'll need to remove the two off to the far right in order to reveal the third and final cable, which sits below them.

10. The display assembly should now be free from the body of the phone. Go ahead and set the display assembly aside.

Note: We used the suction cup method here but note that if you can't get a firm grip with a suction cup, you can use a razor blade or the iSesamo opening tool. Carefully work your way around the bottom of the phone between the frame and display assembly with a razor blade or the iSesamo Opening Tool until you can gently pry up using the flat end of your spudger tool. We recommend using plastic razor blades if you can find them since they won't cause damage to the finish of the iPhone's frame.

4. Disconnect the battery

1. Remove the two screws holding down the battery cable using your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

2. Gently lift the battery shield out of your iPhone 5s and carefully set it aside.

3. Use your spudger tool to carefully pry up the battery cable.

This is as far as you need to go. It isn't necessary to completely remove the battery, but it's always a good idea to disconnect it before replacing any components to prevent any shorts from happening if the Power button accidentally gets pushed during the course of a repair.

5. Replace the rear iSight camera

1. Use a pair of tweezers to flip the rubber shield covering the rear camera to the right — do not try to remove it completely as it's connected. You'll only need to move it aside.

2. Use your spudger tool to disconnect the rear racing camera from the logic board as shown in the image below.

3. Use your tweezers to remove the defective iSight camera from your iPhone 5s.

4. Take notice of the small rubber spacer that sits above the camera assembly. If it became dislodged, be sure to reposition it correctly before installing the new camera.

5. Replace the rear iSight camera with the new one and re-connect it.

6. Reconnect the battery

1. Reconnect the battery cable to the logic board.

2. Replace the battery shield and the two screws you removed earlier.

7. Replace the display assembly

1. Reconnect the three cables shown in the image below, starting with the cable to the far left, which sits underneath the other two.

2. Replace the display shield using the four screws and your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

3. Re-connect the Touch ID cable to the logic board. The easiest tool to help you do this is the pointed end of the spudger tool.

4. Replace the Touch ID shield that sits over the cable.

5. Carefully line up the top of the display into the top of the frame.
6. Snap down the display until it clicks into place.

If the display doesn't want to go back down, do NOT force it. Instead, be sure that the top is lined up correctly and that you aren't snagging any cables. There should be no resistance when snapping it back into place. If there is, you aren't lining it up correctly.

8. Replace the dock connector screws

Use your 5-point security screwdriver to replace the two dock connector screws that sit on either side of the dock.

9. Test the new iSight Camera

After you've finished assembling your iPhone 5s, it's safe to turn it on. In order to test the new camera, I recommend you perform the following steps:

• Toggle between the front and rear facing cameras to make sure both are working and switching properly.
• Tap the screen is several different areas to ensure focus is working.
• Take different kinds of photos to ensure all modes function properly — for example, take some burst photos as well as some regular ones.
• Take a few videos in different modes.
• Take a photo of a piece of white paper and of a dark surface to verify there are no dead spots on the new camera.

If all of the above checked out okay, you're good to go!

iOS 8 was released on September 17th and millions of iOS device users upgraded. That included iPhone 5 owners on T-Mobile who hoped to use Wi-Fi calling, only to find out their phones aren't supported. What's going on?

What's Wi-Fi calling?

Wi-Fi calling enables the iPhone to make and receive phone calls over Wi-Fi, instead of having to depend on a signal from a nearby cell tower. For many T-Mobile customers this is a godsend; the company's cell network does a notoriously poor job of penetrating buildings and working in rural areas, because of the GSM radio frequencies T-Mobile uses.

Wi-Fi calling has been supported by other non-iOS smartphones sold by T-Mobile for some time, but with the addition of the feature to the iPhone, T-Mobile has upped the stakes: It's begun advertising Wi-Fi calling heavily, and says all the smartphones it currently sells supports the feature. T-Mobile has even started offering a "Personal CellSpot" device — a 802.11ac Wi-Fi router especially enhanced to prioritize Wi-Fi calls — to customers looking to maximize their call quality.

Wi-Fi calling is also coming to customers of EE in the U.K. It's coming to other carriers too, but T-Mobile is the first to offer the feature.

• How to use Wi-Fi calling with iOS 8

Disappearing feature

Wi-Fi calling works on the iPhone 5c, 5s, iPhone 6, and iPhone 6 Plus, but the iPhone 5 has been left out. Left out, that is, of the general public release of iOS 8. Because Wi-Fi calling worked on the iPhone 5, for T-Mobile customers who had access to iOS 8 betas.

Wi-Fi calling was added to iOS 8 beta 3, which was released in early July. Between then and now, Apple removed Wi-Fi calling support in iOS 8 for the iPhone 5 model. The iPhone 5 is the first iPhone model T-Mobile sold and officially supported.

Adding to T-Mobile users' frustration is that their customer service and tech support staff routinely told them both before and after iOS 8's release that the iPhone 5 did support Wi-Fi calling. In fact, I verified this: Earlier this week I called T-Mobile customer service and tech help. When I inquired about Wi-Fi calling, reps in both departments assured me the iPhone 5 was supported. There was also widespread confusion about this on T-Mobile's support forums.

Apple has posted a Knowledgebase article explaining Wi-Fi calling in greater detail. No mention is made of the iPhone 5 anywhere in the document.

I asked T-Mobile PR for an explanation. Here's what they had to say.

But why?

We're unlikely to get a straight answer from anyone on the record about why Wi-Fi calling doesn't work with the iPhone 5 in the public release of iOS 8. I am reluctant to speculate too wildly about what happened between iOS 8 beta 3 and now. Sometimes features and functionality are exposed in beta software that don't make it into the final release, for whatever reason.

What's more, T-Mobile came on board with the iPhone more than mid-way through the iPhone 5's run — Apple updated the iPhone 5 with support for T-Mobile's network shortly before the iPhone 5 went on sale at T-Mobile stores in April, 2013. (I've written before about the hoops I had to jump through to get my iPhone 5 working right on T-Mobile's network.)

I don't want to call the iPhone 5 an edge case for T-Mobile, but I suspect its population of iPhone 5 users is significantly smaller than users of more recent models which do support Wi-Fi calling.

Bottom line

As it stands now, if you're on T-Mobile and want to use Wi-Fi calling, you'll need an iPhone 5C or later, plain and simple. So if you have an iPhone 5, it's one incentive to upgrade to a newer model.

Even though you can't get Wi-Fi calling to work on your iPhone 5, T-Mobile may be willing to work with you in other ways to improve your indoor reception. They offer a 4G LTE booster that can dramatically improve reception in your house, for example — I've used one for months (with an iPhone 5S and iPhone 5), and I went from one spotty bar in the house to four solid bars most of the time.

• T-Mobile's Personal CellSpot, Wi-Fi Calling, and 4G LTE Booster explained

Are you an iPhone 5 user on T-Mobile? Frustrated by the lack of Wi-Fi calling? Using this as an excuse to upgrade? Sound off in the comments!

If your iPhone 5s no longer vibrates when it rings or when you receive any other kind of notification, it's possible that the vibrator assembly itself has either burnt out or is defective. In some cases, users have reported that the strength of the vibration diminishes over time. If any of these issues sound like something you're experience, a DIY repair to fix it on your own is always an option. So if you aren't covered by warranty and didn't opt for AppleCare, follow along and we'll walk you through fixing an iPhone 5s vibration assembly on your own.

What you need to DIY replace an iPhone 5s vibrator assembly

You'll need some tools and parts in order to repair your iPhone 5s. iMore recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like iFixYouri. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• Replacement iPhone 5s vibrator assembly
• Suction cup
• 5-point security screwdriver
• Standard #000 Phillips screwdriver
• Spudger tool
• Razor blade
• iSesamo Opening tool (not necessary but awesome for prying up cables and getting under adhesive)

1. Power off your iPhone 5s

Before performing any repair on any device, always remember to power it off. Simply hold down on the Power button until you see Slide to Power off. One you're sure your iPhone 5s is turned off, proceed to the next section.

2. Remove the two security screws on both sides of the dock connector

There are two security screws that secure the screen to the frame and they sit on each side of the dock connector. Use your 5-point security screwdriver to remove them. They are both the same size so it's okay if you mix them up.

3. Remove the display assembly

1. Place your suction cup slightly above the Home button assembly and secure it to the screen.

2. Holding the iPhone in place with one hand, gently pull upwards on the suction cup until you free the bottom of the screen but do NOT pull up all the way at this point as a cable running to the Touch ID sensor is still connected. You only want to separate the screen about an inch at this point.

3. Now that you have a clear view of the cables, use the pointed edge of your spudger tool in order to carefully remove the metal shield covering the Touch ID cable.

4. Make sure you don't lose the metal guard that covers the Touch ID connector.

5. Again, use the pointed edge of your spudger tool in order to disconnect Touch ID.

6. You can now safely swing the display up more in order to see where it is connected to the board.
7. Remove the four screws holding down the shield that covers the display cables. To do this, use your #000 screwdriver.

8. Once all four screws are removed, carefully remove the shield and set it aside.

9. Now use your spudger tool in order to remove the three cables shown in the image below. You'll need to remove the two off to the far right in order to reveal the third and final cable, which sits below them.

10. The display assembly should now be free from the body of the phone. Go ahead and set the display assembly aside.

Note: We used the suction cup method here but note that if you can't get a firm grip with a suction cup, you can use a razor blade or the iSesamo opening tool. Carefully work your way around the bottom of the phone between the frame and display assembly with a razor blade or the iSesamo Opening Tool until you can gently pry up using the flat end of your spudger tool. We recommend using plastic razor blades if you can find them since they won't cause damage to the finish of the iPhone's frame.

4. Disconnect the battery

1. Remove the two screws holding down the battery cable using your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

2. Gently lift the battery shield out of your iPhone 5s and carefully set it aside.

3. Use your spudger tool to carefully pry up the battery cable.

This is as far as you need to go. It isn't necessary to completely remove the battery, but it's always a good idea to disconnect it before replacing any components.

5. Replace the vibrator assembly

1. Remove the two screws shown in the photo below using your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

2. Carefully use tweezers or your fingers to remove the bracket covering the vibrator motor.

3. Remove the one screw in the top casing that's holding the vibrator assembly in place using your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

4. Carefully lift out the old vibrator assembly and replace it with the new one.

5. Make note of the contacts on the logic board as you'll need to make sure the vibrator assembly is correctly lined up with them.

6. Replace the one screw holding the vibrator assembly to the top of the casing. Don't screw it in all the way just yet.

7. Replace the shield that sits over the vibrator assembly and the two screws that hold it in place.

8. Tighten up all the screws, making sure the vibrator assembly is sitting as it should over the contacts.

6. Reconnect the battery

1. Reconnect the battery cable to the logic board.

2. Replace the battery shield and the two screws you removed earlier.

7. Replace the display assembly

1. Reconnect the three cables shown in the image below, starting with the cable to the far left, which sits underneath the other two.

2. Replace the display shield using the four screws and your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

3. Re-connect the Touch ID cable to the logic board. The easiest tool to help you do this is the pointed end of the spudger tool.

4. Replace the Touch ID shield that sits over the cable.

5. Carefully line up the top of the display into the top of the frame.
6. Snap down the display until it clicks into place.

If the display doesn't want to go back down, do NOT force it. Instead, be sure that the top is lined up correctly and that you aren't snagging any cables. There should be no resistance when snapping it back into place. If there is, you aren't lining it up correctly.

8. Replace the dock connector screws

Use your 5-point security screwdriver to replace the two dock connector screws that sit on either side of the dock.

9. Test the new vibrator assembly

It's now safe to turn your iPhone 5s back on. If all went well, you should see an Apple logo. Once your iPhone finishes booting up, perform the following steps to verify the vibrator assembly is now working:

• Toggle your vibration switch and make sure you feel a vibration that's strong
• Place a test call to your iPhone to make sure vibration works as it should
• Go into Settings and test different vibration patterns under the Sounds section to ensure that the vibrator is now accurately producing feedback

If all of the above checked out okay, you're good to go!

Apple's event on September 10, 2013 was unique in their history — they introduced not one but two new phones on stage that day. The first was a re-imagining of the previous year's model in a new, more colorful form. It was the past made present. The second was all about the future. It was, as Phil Schiller called it, the most forward thinking iPhone ever. It was the iPhone 5s.

The gold standard

The iPhone 5s, codenamed N51 and model number iPhone6,1, kept the same design as the previous year's iPhone 5, something that had become a hallmark of Apple's S-class phones. (The shift from uppercase S to lowercase s in the branding was likely a visual concession — 5S has a great chance of being confused for 55 than 5s does.) That meant the iPhone 5s kept the same 4-inch, 1136x640 pixel, 326ppi, 16:9 aspect ratio display, and the same in-cell technology that made the pixels look like they were fused right into the screen.

The same aluminum unibody was kept as well, with its ceramic glass inlays on the back for RF transparency and its diamond chamfered edges. And that was a problem. Apple was already dealing with a media and mindset that found the incredible advances in manufacturing used on the iPhone 5 boring. How could they change that sentiment if the design itself wasn't changing? Turns out by giving people differences that were only skin deep. By giving them a new color.

The original iPhone had been available only in aluminum and black. The iPhone 3G and iPhone 3GS had black front plates but offered both black and white back plate options. The iPhone 4 and iPhone 4s had come, front and back, in black or white. The iPhone 5 was two tone, but those tones were still black and slate gray, and white and silver. The iPhone 5s added white and gold. Jokingly referred to as Kardashian, a reference to the celebrity having had her iPhone 5 re-anodized in gold earlier in the year. Apple didn't go for a deep gold, however. They went for a light, champagne gold.

While gold is the easiest colors to anodize, black remained the hardest. After dealing with scratches and chips on the black and slate gray iPhone 5, Apple switched to black and space gray on the iPhone 5s. It wasn't a big change in terms of shade, but it proved to be a giant leap when it came to resiliency.

The moonshots, however, were all on the inside. Having previously taken a crack at spinning their own processor design with the A6's Swift, Apple went all out on the Apple A7. They licensed the newer, cleaner ARMv7 instruction set and made the Cyclone, the world's first 64-bit mainstream mobile processor. That they got to 64-bit before the likes of Samsung and Qualcomm, who manufacture chips, was as impressive for technologists as it was galling for those two companies.

The Apple A7 was 28nm, dual-core, and 1.3GHz, paired with an OpenGL 3.0 capable PowerVR Series 6 (Rogue) G6430, and 1GB of DDR 3 RAM. The RAM proved to little for demands of 64-bit apps, with Safari routinely reloading even a couple or a few tabs, and background apps being jettisoned more quickly than they might otherwise have been. However, more RAM means higher power consumption, and complaints about reloading might just as easily be dwarfed by complaints of lower battery life. Apple needs to strike a balance, or come up with a new equation...

Unlike previous S-class releases, and unlike the iPad, the solid state storage limit didn't increase — 64GB remained the top of the line.

With the Apple A7 came the secure enclave, a coprocessor that handled encryption, including the brand new Touch ID fingerprint identification sensor. When a finger was placed on the Home button a capacitive ring detected it and a high resolution snapshot was triggered. That snapshot was converted to math and then destroyed. The math passed through a hardware channel to the secure enclave where it was compared again up to 5 registered prints and, if matched, triggered the release of a "yes" token to enable authorization for unlock or authentication for purchase. It was a clever solution to a real problem.

Security is always at war with convenience. Apple's numbers showed only half of their hundreds of millions of customers used a 4-digit passcode on their iPhones. Touch ID would allow people to authenticate and their iPhones — and authorize purchases on the iTunes Store, App Store, and iBooks Store — simply by placing their finger on the Home button. Less secure than a long, alphanumeric password, but much more likely to be used than even a weak passcode, in the endless war between security and convenience, it was a good compromise.

There was some initial concern as to how reliable Touch ID would be. Fingerprint sensors on competing devices had been considerably less than stellar to date. There was also a lot of fear, uncertainty, and doubt (FUD) spread right after launch. There were videos of people making fake fingerprints to spoof the system. There was also a problem with the method intended to improve reliability with each and every read of the fingerprint — sometimes it took a wrong turn. The FUD failed, the spoofs were understood in context, and Apple ultimately released updates to iOS 7 to fix the reliability.

Touch ID ended up doing what it was intended to do — make security easy enough that most people, most of the time, would actually use it. And according to Apple's numbers, it worked. The number of people using a passcode leapt from 41% pre-Touch ID to 83% post-Touch ID.

The Apple A7 also included the Apple M7, a motion coprocessor, a type of sensor fusion hub. Codenamed Oscar, the M7 is believed to be an NXP LPC1800 micro-controller based on an ARM Cortex M3 processor that collects and keeps a week's worth of motion data, including the built-in accelerometer, magnometer (digital compass), and gyroscope. It does this so that the Apple A7 can stay powered down and simply request motion data when and if it needs it, rather than staying powered on to collect it itself. In other words, the M7 saved us all battery life.

The image signal processor (ISP) in the Apple A7 also improved the built-in iSight camera, including allowing for 120fps slow-motion video, 30fps panorama capture, live video zoom, intelligent burst mode, dynamic local tone mapping, 2x faster focusing, autofocus matrix metering, and electronic image stabilization (EIS).

Beyond the chipset, the iPhone 5s' iSight camera is still a Sony IMX145 and Exmor-RS CMOS sensor but size has gone up from 1.4 to 1.5 microns, and aperture from f/2.4 to f/2/2. This combined for a 33% increase in light sensitivity. Apple also added a bicolor TrueTone flash that had both yellow and white elements to better match existing color temperatures.

The front FaceTime camera also got a boost, from 1.75 to 1.9 microns, with backside illumination (BSI) thrown in for good measure.

Bluetooth and Wi-Fi stayed functionally the same, though the radio changed to a Broadcom BCM43342. Near-field communications (NFC) remained missing in action (MIA). The Qualcomm MDM9615M LTE 4G radio, however, gave the iPhone 5s support for 13 bands, though it took 5 different models to get there.

Price, not surprisingly, stayed the same. The iPhone 5s launched starting at $199 on-contract for 16GB, with $299 and $399 options for 32GB and 64GB respectively.

More powerful than you think

The iPhone 5s launched on September 20, 2013 in the U.S., Australia, Canada, China, France, Germany, Hong Kong, Japan, Puerto Rico, Singapore and the U.K. It's hard to say how many were sold that first weekend because the iPhone 5c was sold along with it and Apple doesn't break down numbers per model. Apple did say they sold 9 million iPhones combined that weekend, and some analysts have estimated the iPhone 5s accounted for about 6.75 million of those. Tim cook, via Apple:

People made fun of of the gold iPhone both after it leaked and when it was announced. Then they panicked when they couldn't get one come launch day, week, or month. Funny things, we humans are. Best of all (or worst of all, depending on your perspective), going gold worked. Apple got little to none of the negative reaction to the iPhone 5s design that they'd gotten to the iPhone 5. Scratch the surface and what do most people want? More surface. As always, Apple wasn't targeting iPhone 5 owners with the iPhone 5s — though Touch ID, iSight, and the 64-bit Apple A7 struck straight to the hearts of early adopters — but rather iPhone 4s and previous device owners looking for a more significant upgrade.

Reviews were good.

Anand Lal Shimpi for AnandTech:

Joanna Stern for ABC:

Yours truly for iMore:

From burning platforms to fire sales

Competitors based on Qualcomm processors were caught flat-footed by the Apple A7. Samsung, which both made their own chipsets and used Qualcomm (don't ask), likewise. It would take them a year to even begin to catch up. That's not to say they didn't offer unique and compelling features all their own. Samsung made waterproofing mainstream with the Galaxy S5, and their Galaxy Note series, while not reaching the same popularity in North America as it did elsewhere, kept getting better at digitizers and bigger at screen sizes.

HTC continued to release good, if strangely branded, phones like the HTC One M8. Though consistently reviewed better than Samsung their sales haven't come close to catching up. Google sold Motorola to Lenovo, though there's every indication interesting phones like the Moto X will continue. Google also announced Android L, a preview of their next generation mobile operating system. Just as Apple has been moving from their foundation of excellent interactivity into new levels of functionality, so Google has been moving from excellent functionality into new levels of interactivity.

Nokia, it's value crushed by former Microsoft executive Stephan Elop, ended up being bought by outgoing Microsoft CEO Steve Ballmer, ostensibly to prevent Windows Phone's largest manufacturer from shifting to Android. The deal closed and Microsoft went on to ship Windows Phone 8.1 and Cortana, their Siri-like virtual assistant. They continue to have some level of traction, especially with lower cost devices in emerging markets, but like everyone else not-Apple and not-Samsung, haven't seen much increase in profitability in the rest of the market. New CEO, Satya Nadella comes from a cloud and services background, and Microsoft has been increasingly good at supporting the iPhone and iPad, so perhaps the future for them lies cross-platform?

BlackBerry, with Thorten Heins gone and former Sybase CEO, John Chen now in his place, shifted focus back towards the enterprise and doubled down on keyboards, announcing the upcoming BlackBerry Passport, a phone no one would ever mistake for just another post-iPhone slab. What and how much they can do with it, however, remains to be seen.

Seven years later

By 2013 Apple had gone from an early Project Experience Purple dream to as close to reality as technology would allow. The iPhone 5s took the physical form of the iPhone 5 and added internals that would set the platform on a course straight for the future. But what do you do when your original dreams have all been made manifest?

Why go on to better and bigger things, of course...

• History of the original iPhone
• History of iPhone 3G
• History of iPhone 3GS
• History of iPhone 4
• History of iPhone 4s
• History of iPhone 5
• History of iPhone 5c
• History of iPhone 5s

In some cases, a defective vibrator assembly also causes weak vibration that gets fainter and fainter over time. If that sounds like something you're experiencing, it probably needs to be replaced. If you're for some reason not covered by warranty, or just prefer doing the repair yourself to save some cash, we can walk you through where to get replacement parts and how to perform this relatively easy iPhone repair all on your own!

Disclaimer: As with any repair, iMore cannot be held responsible for any damage you may do to your device. It's also worth considering that opening up your device to perform any repair or modification can and will void your Apple warranty. If you don't feel comfortable opening your device, don't. Use extreme care and caution when performing a repair on any device.

What you need to replace an iPhone 5c vibrator assembly

iMore recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like iFixYouri. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• Replacement vibrator assembly
• Suction cup
• 5-point security screwdriver
• Standard #000 Phillips screwdriver
• Spudger tool
• Razor blade
• iSesamo Opening tool (not necessary but awesome for prying up cables and getting under adhesive)

1. Power off your iPhone 5c

Before performing any repair on any iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch you should always remember to power it off. Simply hold down on the Power button until you see Slide to Power off. One you're sure your iPhone is turned off, proceed to the next section.

2. Remove the two security screws on both sides of the dock connector

There are two security screws that secure the screen to the frame and they sit on each side of the dock connector. Use your 5-point security screwdriver to remove them. They are both the same size so it's okay if you mix them up.

3. Remove the display assembly

1. Place your suction cup slightly above the Home button assembly and secure it to the screen.

2. Holding the iPhone in place with one hand, gently pull upwards on the suction cup until you free the bottom of the screen. You should now be able to use your fingers to slowly raise up the screen and expose where the front assembly is connected to the logic board.
3. Remove the four screws holding down the shield that covers the display cables. To do this, use your #000 screwdriver. These screws are different sizes so make sure you keep them organized in a way you can remember for re-assembly.

4. Once all four screws are removed, carefully remove the shield and set it aside.

5. Now use your spudger tool in order to remove the three cables shown in the image below.

6. The display assembly should now be free from the body of the phone. Go ahead and set the display assembly aside.

4. Disconnect the battery

We don't need to completely remove the battery in order to replace the vibrator assembly but it's always a good idea to disconnect the battery before removing any other internal components in order to prevent a short for occurring.

1. Remove the two screws holding down the battery cable using your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

2. Gently lift the battery shield out of your iPhone 5c and carefully set it aside.

3. Use your spudger tool to carefully pry up the battery cable.

5. Replace the vibrator assembly

1. Remove the two screws at the top and bottom of the vibrator assembly using your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

2. Gently lift the old vibrator assembly out of your iPhone 5c.

3. There is a piece of black tape sitting on top of the vibrator assembly. You can now transfer it to the new vibrator assembly if it doesn't already have one in place.

4. Place the new vibrator assembly in your iPhone 5c and replace the two screws you removed in step 1.
5. Make sure the contacts on the back of the vibrator assembly line up with the contacts on the logic board. If they don't, the vibrator motor won't work.

6. Re-connect the battery

1. Re-connect the battery cable that you pryed up earlier.

2. Replace the battery cable shield.

3. Replace the two screws holding the battery cable down using your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

7. Re-connect the display assembly

1. Carefully reconnect the three cables running from the display assembly to the logic board.

2. Reposition the metal shield that sits over the three cables and replace the four screws that hold it in place, remembering where each one came from — they are all different sizes.

3. Line up the top of the screen carefully and make note of the teeth that line up to the top of your iPhone 5c's frame. Once the top of the display is lined up, carefully snap down the remainder by moving your fingers along the edge.

8. Replace the security screws on each side of the dock connector

Once you are confident that the display is seated correctly again, use your security screwdriver in order to replace the two screws on either side of the dock connector.

9. Test the new vibrator assembly

It's now safe to turn your iPhone 5c back on. If all went well, you should see an Apple logo. Once your iPhone finishes booting up, perform the following steps to verify the vibrator assembly is now working:

• Toggle your vibration switch and make sure you feel a vibration that's strong
• Place a test call to your iPhone to make sure vibration works as it should
• Go into Settings and test different vibration patterns under the Sounds section to ensure that the vibrator is now accurately producing feedback

If all of the above checked out okay, you're good to go!

The invitation for Apple's 2013 iPhone event played off the dot motif from the whimsically animated video Tim Cook had shown off at WWDC, the one that expounded on Apple's core values and beliefs, and what they're willing to put their signature to. But unlike the stack black and white of the video, the invitations dots were in bright, bold color. So it was that on September 10, 2013, when Tim Cook took the stage, he announced that unlike almost every year previously, Apple wasn't going to lower the price of the previous year's black- and white-cased iPhone 5. That year the business had grown so large, Apple was going to replace with something new. With something fun. With something colorful. With the iPhone 5c.

For the colorful

iPhone 5c, codenamed N48 and model number iPhone5,3, marked the first time Apple didn't simple drop the previous year's flagship down to mid-tier pricing. Instead, they repackaged it as something new. It had the same 1136x640, 16:9 in-cell display, but it replaced the aluminum casing with polycarbonate. The change did cost Apple slightly when it came to size, adding millimeters around the edges and on the back, but it let them replace the harder-to-manufacture and easier to damage aluminum of the iPhone 5 with the more rugged, hard-coated polycarbonate of the iPhone 5c. Also, as Apple had previously done with the iPod lineup, including the iPod touch, having a dedicated device at a lower-price point let them use color as a differentiator. Set against the traditional black/slate and white/silver of the premium line, the iPhone 5c popped in plastic tinted bright green, blue, yellow, pink, and white.

Apple had used plastic casings before for the iPhone 3G and iPhone 3GS. For the iPhone 5c, however, they put it around a metal frame so it felt rock solid. They called it "unapologetically" plastic and it was. It felt great.

Internally the iPhone 5c used the same Apple A6 system-on-a-chip (SoC) as the previous year's iPhone 5. In fact, almost all the internals were the same. Same 1.3GHz ARMv7-based Swift central processor, same PowerVR SGX543MP3 graphics processor, same 1GB of RAM. Same 8mp iSight camera on the back with the same backside illumination (BSI), hybrid IR filter, 5-element lens, and Apple A6-powered image signal processor (ISP). Same Bluetooth 4.0 (low energy), same 802.11a/b/g/n dual-band Wi-Fi on both 2.4GHz and 5GHz.

A few things did change. While the 16GB and 32GB solid state storage options remained, there was no 64GB option, likely a concession to its mid-tier status. The battery in the iPhone 5c was increased, however, to 1510 mAh, bringing 3G talk time and LTE browse time up to 10 hours from the previous 8. The FaceTime HD camera on the front went to larger 1.9 micron pixels and gained backside illumination as well.

The LTE 4G radio was also improved, gaining support for 13 bands, albeit over 5 different models.

The price, however, reflected the new position and reduced storage options. $99 for 16GB, $199 for 32GB on contract.

Designed together

Apple had been toying with the idea of a new-old iPhone for years. It sometimes leaked as an iPhone mini or as a budget iPhone for emerging markets. It was never intended to be either of those things. The less expensive price point was a byproduct for the mid-tier positioning, not the other way around. For Apple to really bring attention to that spot on the product line, to make the iPhone even more mainstream, they needed a product worthy of that mainstream attention.

The iPhone 5c debuted alongside iOS 7. That Apple's first new mid-tier hardware and first major software redesign coincided allowed them to carefully plan so that each accented the other, so that they looked like they were designed together.

iOS 7 even made the older elements of the hardware more useful. It brought, for example, live camera filters, video zoom, and FaceTime audio calls. But the effect was greater than the sum of its features. There was always some overlap of shapes, of rounded rectangles and circles, but Apple made sure to coordinate the colors of the iPhone 5c casings with the palette of the iOS 7 icons, text, and tints. Thanks to new object-oriented design of iOS 7, which used a physics and particle engine to bring elements alive, and transparency and layering to give them depth, the hardware and software really did seem made for each other and part of a larger, more integrated whole.

Just say 'non'

Alongside the iPhone 5c Apple also introduced a line of cases. They came in the same shades of green, blue, yellow, pink, and white, and also in black. Unlike the hard finish of the iPhone 5c, the cases were soft-touch so you could not only change up the look, you could change up the feeling. Apple heavily promoted the options that gave you, with graphics and web tools that showcased the wide range of mix-and-match options.

Apple claimed they, like iOS 7, had been designed with the iPhone 5c in mind, including the grid of circular cutouts along the bottom that let the phone's color shine through, creating an almost half-tone effect. Unfortunately, it also let a phew of the characters printed on the back of the iPhone 5c shine through, namely "non", which didn't bother some but others found amusing or off-putting.

Blockbusters vs. serials

The iPhone 5c launched in the U.S, Australia, Canada, China, France, Germany, Hong Kong, Japan, Puerto Rico, Singapore and the U.K. on September 20, 2013. It's hard to say how many were sold that first weekend because the iPhone 5s was sold along with it and Apple doesn't break down numbers per model. Apple did say they sold 9 million iPhones combined that weekend, and some analysts have estimated the iPhone 5c accounted for about 2.25 million of those.

Some reviewers and analysts found the numbers difficult to wrap their heads around. They looked for the traditional iPhone launch spike and, when they didn't see it, they slapped the "dud" label on it and moved on. Rumors of the iPhone 5c being a cheap or budget or emerging markets iPhone may have led to the wrong expectations, at least for those who hadn't followed Apple's business for length of time. Likewise, rumors of manufacturing cuts may have caused some confusion, as might have the product itself.

Traditionally new iPhones had been like blockbuster movies and did indeed spike to the stratosphere when they launched only to slowly wound down until the next year's blockbuster hit. The iPhone 5c was different. It was meant to be more like a TV series that airs week in, week out. It wasn't packaged like previous iPhones, in a box and meant to sit in back-of-house. It was packaged like an iPod in a clear plastic case that let its color shine through to entice anyone walking by. And entice them it did. The iPhone 5c was bought steadily, day by day, week by week, month by month, pushing it up top-sellers charts, and making it the kind of "dud" any manufacturer would love to have.

Reviews were generally good as well. Nilay Patel for The Verge:

Myriam Joire for Engadget:

And my mom, for iMore

The iPhone 5c wasn't the fastest or most powerful or most forward thinking new iPhone on the market. But for many people, for mainstream people, for first time smartphone or any phone buyers, for people who were slightly more price sensitive but who also had a certain vibe and vibrance to their tastes — for those people the iPhone 5c might have been the best.

Seven years later

It was the iPhone 5s that faced most of the competitive pressure in the market, not the iPhone 5c. That didn't stop the iPhone 5c from outselling flagship handsets from Samsung, HTC, Motorola, Nokia, and others from time to time and place to place. That is wasn't a cheap iPhone but a less-expensive, more pop-culture iPhone also prevented it from going head-to-head with the low-margin, price-is-the-most-important-feature handsets from other manufacturers.

What it did do, however, is bring a lot of attention to Apple's mid-tier iPhone. It wasn't just last year's model with a storage shave and a price-cut. It was new enough and fun enough to be a real alternative not only for people who weren't so interested in other brands, but who weren't as interested in Apple's flagship phone either.

The iPhone 5c did what Apple does best — it broadened their addressable market in a very few, very deliberate ways. And it showed Apple could do something else, something potentially even more important for the future. It showed Apple could produce tens of millions of two new phones in the same year. Now what could that possibly mean for 2014?

• History of the original iPhone
• History of iPhone 3G
• History of iPhone 3GS
• History of iPhone 4
• History of iPhone 4s
• History of iPhone 5
• History of iPhone 5c
• History of iPhone 5s

A bad battery can severely diminish how long you can go on a full charge. If you own an iPhone 5s and either didn't opt for AppleCare or just prefer doing things on your own in order to save some money, a DIY battery replacement isn't terribly difficult. Not only that, buying the battery on your own and replacing it costs a fraction of what you'll pay for an out of warranty repair. So if you've been experiencing less than stellar battery life, we can help you replace your iPhone 5s' battery in under 30 minutes!

What you need to DIY replace an iPhone 5s battery

You'll need some tools and parts in order to repair your iPhone 5s. iMore recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like iFixYouri. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• Replacement iPhone 5s battery
• Suction cup
• 5-point security screwdriver
• Standard #000 Phillips screwdriver
• Spudger tool
• Razor blade
• iSesamo Opening tool (not necessary but awesome for prying up cables and getting under adhesive)

1. Power off your iPhone 5s

Before performing any repair on any device, always remember to power it off. Simply hold down on the Power button until you see Slide to Power off. Once you're sure your iPhone 5s is turned off, proceed to the next section.

2. Remove the two security screws on both sides of the dock connector

There are two security screws that secure the screen to the frame and they sit on each side of the dock connector. Use your 5-point security screwdriver to remove them. They are both the same size so it's okay if you mix them up.

3. Remove the display assembly

1. Place your suction cup slightly above the Home button assembly and secure it to the screen.

2. Holding the iPhone in place with one hand, gently pull upwards on the suction cup until you free the bottom of the screen but do NOT pull up all the way at this point as a cable running to the Touch ID sensor is still connected. You only want to separate the screen about an inch at this point.

3. Now that you have a clear view of the cables, use the pointed edge of your spudger tool in order to carefully remove the metal shield covering the Touch ID cable.

4. Make sure you don't lose the metal guard that covers the Touch ID connector.

5. Again, use the pointed edge of your spudger tool in order to disconnect Touch ID.

6. You can now safely swing the display up more in order to see where it is connected to the board.
7. Remove the four screws holding down the shield that covers the display cables. To do this, use your #000 screwdriver.

8. Once all four screws are removed, carefully remove the shield and set it aside.

9. Now use your spudger tool in order to remove the three cables shown in the image below. You'll need to remove the two off to the far right in order to reveal the third and final cable, which sits below them.

10. The display assembly should now be free from the body of the phone. Go ahead and set the display assembly aside.

Note: We used the suction cup method here but note that if you can't get a firm grip with a suction cup, you can use a razor blade or the iSesamo opening tool. Carefully work your way around the bottom of the phone between the frame and display assembly with a razor blade or the iSesamo Opening Tool until you can gently pry up using the flat end of your spudger tool. We recommend using plastic razor blades if you can find them since they won't cause damage to the finish of the iPhone's frame.

4. Replace the battery

1. Remove the two screws holding down the battery cable using your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

2. Gently lift the battery shield out of your iPhone 5s and carefully set it aside.

3. Use your spudger tool to carefully pry up the battery cable.

4. Along the bottom of the battery above the dock, there is an adhesive tab. Use the pointed end of your spudger tool to unfold it.

5. Pull on the tab at both sides just enough to where you can use scissors to put a cut in the center.

6. Starting on the left side of the iPhone 5s battery, carefully start pulling the adhesive. It should start coming loose from underneath the battery. You'll hear a creaking/cracking noise. This is normal and is just the adhesive pulling up from the casing.

7. Slowly and carefully pull sideways and along the left hand side of the battery. Take care not to tear any components. At the same time, don't pull too quickly or the adhesive tab will tear, making it hard to get the rest of it out.
8. Perform the same action along the right side of the iPhone 5s battery. Take tremendous care not to snag cables or the logic board. Pull away from the logic board.
9. Keep a finger or two over the battery as it may come with the adhesive when you're done removing it.
10. Once both sides of the adhesive strip are removed, simply lift the old battery out of your iPhone 5s.
11. Your new replacement battery should have adhesive pre-installed on the back of the battery. If it doesn't, use two strips of double-sided tape that are a little shorter than the length of the battery. This will work just fine.
12. Place the new battery in your iPhone 5s.
13. Replace the battery cable on the logic board.

14. Replace the battery shield and the two screws you removed earlier.

5. Replace the display assembly

1. Reconnect the three cables shown in the image below, starting with the cable to the far left, which sits underneath the other two.

2. Replace the display shield using the four screws and your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

3. Re-connect the Touch ID cable to the logic board. The easiest tool to help you do this is the pointed end of the spudger tool.

4. Replace the Touch ID shield that sits over the cable.

5. Carefully line up the top of the display into the top of the frame.
6. Snap down the display until it clicks into place.

If the display doesn't want to go back down, do NOT force it. Instead, be sure that the top is lined up correctly and that you aren't snagging any cables. There should be no resistance when snapping it back into place. If there is, you aren't lining it up correctly.

6. Replace the dock connector screws

Use your 5-point security screwdriver to replace the two dock connector screws that sit on either side of the dock.

7. Test the new battery

After you've finished assembling your iPhone 5s, it's safe to turn it on. In order to test the new battery, perform the following steps:

• Fully charge your iPhone 5s and make sure it doesn't get any warmer than usual, as that could be a sign of a defective battery
• Monitor usage over the first few days with the replacement battery to make sure your battery life has improved

If all of the above checked out okay, you're good to go!

Questions?

Let us know below.

Walmart is heavily discounting both the iPhone 5s and iPhone 5c for the next 90 days in preparation of the iPhone 6. If you're still looking for a sweet deal on a brand new Apple smartphone, look no further than the US retailer as you'll be able to pick up the premium flagship model for just $79, while the iPhone 5c can be yours for $0.97. These prices will lock purchasers in two year contracts with AT&T, Sprint, US Cellular and Verizon.

Apple hasn't yet announced the iPhone 6 but should this fire sale be anything to go by, Walmart is certainly preparing to move stock of current generation units. Which will you be picking up, if any? Let us know in the comments!

Source: Walmart, via: Engadget

If you aren't under warranty for some reason or you didn't opt for AppleCare, a battery replacement is one of the easier DIY repairs where the iPhone 5c is concerned. Not only can we walk you through every step of the way, we can link you to quality parts and tools we've tested and used ourselves.

What you need to replace your iPhone 5c's battery

You'll need some tools and parts in order to repair your iPhone 5c. iMore recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like iFixYouri. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• Replacement battery
• Suction cup
• 5-point security screwdriver
• Standard #000 Phillips screwdriver
• Spudger tool
• Razor blade
• iSesamo Opening tool (not necessary but awesome for prying up cables and getting under adhesive)

1. Power off your iPhone 5c

Before performing any repair on any iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch you should always remember to power it off. Simply hold down on the Power button until you see Slide to Power off. One you're sure your iPhone is turned off, proceed to the next section.

2. Remove the two security screws on both sides of the dock connector

There are two security screws that secure the screen to the frame and they sit on each side of the dock connector. Use your 5-point security screwdriver to remove them. They are both the same size so it's okay if you mix them up.

3. Remove the display assembly

1. Place your suction cup slightly above the Home button assembly and secure it to the screen.

2. Holding the iPhone in place with one hand, gently pull upwards on the suction cup until you free the bottom of the screen. You should now be able to use your fingers to slowly raise up the screen and expose where the front assembly is connected to the logic board.
3. Remove the four screws holding down the shield that covers the display cables. To do this, use your #000 screwdriver. These screws are different sizes so make sure you keep them organized in a way you can remember for re-assembly.

4. Once all four screws are removed, carefully remove the shield and set it aside.

5. Now use your spudger tool in order to remove the three cables shown in the image below.

6. The display assembly should now be free from the body of the phone. Go ahead and set the display assembly aside.

4. Replace the battery

1. Remove the two screws holding down the battery cable using your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

2. Gently lift the battery shield out of your iPhone 5c and carefully set it aside.

3. Use your spudger tool to carefully pry up the battery cable.

4. Along the bottom of the battery above the dock, there is an adhesive tab. Use the pointed end of your spudger tool to unfold it.

5. Pull on the tab at both sides just enough to where you can use scissors to put a cut in the center.

6. Starting on the left side of the iPhone 5c battery, carefully start pulling the adhesive. It should start coming loose from underneath the battery. You'll hear a creaking/cracking noise. This is normal and is just the adhesive pulling up from the casing.

7. Slowly and carefully pull sideways and along the left hand side of the battery. Take care not to tear any components. At the same time, don't pull too quickly or the adhesive tab will tear, making it hard to get the rest of it out.

8. Perform the same action along the right side of the iPhone 5c battery. Take tremendous care not to snag cables or the logic board. Pull away from the logic board.

9. Keep a finger or two over the battery as it may come with the adhesive when you're done removing it.
10. Once both sides of the adhesive strip are removed, simply lift the old battery out of your iPhone 5c.

11. Your new replacement battery should have adhesive pre-installed on the back of the battery. If it doesn't, use two strips of double-sided tape that are a little shorter than the length of the battery. This will work just fine.
12. Place the new battery in your iPhone 5c.
13. Replace the battery cable on the logic board.

14. Replace the battery shield and the two screws you removed earlier.

5. Re-connect the display assembly

1. Carefully reconnect the three cables running from the display assembly to the logic board.

2. Reposition the metal shield that sits over the three cables and replace the four screws that hold it in place, remembering where each one came from — they are all different sizes.

3. Line up the top of the screen carefully and make note of the teeth that line up to the top of your iPhone 5c's frame. Once the top of the display is lined up, carefully snap down the remainder by moving your fingers along the edge.

6. Replace the security screws on each side of the dock connector

Once you are confident that the display is seated correctly again, use your security screwdriver in order to replace the two screws on either side of the dock connector.

7. Test the new battery

It's now safe to turn your iPhone 5c back on. If all went well, you should see an Apple logo. Once your iPhone finishes booting up, make sure you check the following functions to test the new battery:

• Fully charge your iPhone 5c and make sure it doesn't get any warmer than usual, as that could be a sign of a defective battery
• Monitor usage over the first few days with the replacement battery to make sure your battery life has improved

If all of the above checked out okay, you're good to go!

Have an iPhone 5s with an earpiece that just isn't working like it should? Typical symptoms of a blown or defective earpiece include extremely low volume when a caller is talking or no sound at all. Typically if the earpiece is bad, switching to speakerphone allows you to hear the caller once again. In some cases, frequent distortion could also be a sign of a bad earpiece. If you didn't opt for AppleCare or aren't covered by warranty for some other reason, repairing your iPhone is always an option. Luckily, an earpiece replacement is a rather easy repair for iPhone 5s owners, and we can walk you through every step of the way!

What you need to DIY repair a blown earpiece in an iPhone 5s

You'll need some tools and parts in order to repair your iPhone 5s. iMore recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like iFixYouri. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• Replacement earpiece
• Suction cup
• 5-point security screwdriver
• Standard #000 Phillips screwdriver
• Spudger tool
• Razor blade
• iSesamo Opening tool (not necessary but awesome for prying up cables and getting under adhesive)

1. Power off your iPhone 5s

Before performing any repair on any device, always remember to power it off. Simply hold down on the Power button until you see Slide to Power off. One you're sure your iPhone 5s is turned off, proceed to the next section.

2. Remove the two security screws on both sides of the dock connector

There are two security screws that secure the screen to the frame and they sit on each side of the dock connector. Use your 5-point security screwdriver to remove them. They are both the same size so it's okay if you mix them up.

3. Remove the display assembly

1. Place your suction cup slightly above the Home button assembly and secure it to the screen.

2. Holding the iPhone in place with one hand, gently pull upwards on the suction cup until you free the bottom of the screen but do NOT pull up all the way at this point as a cable running to the Touch ID sensor is still connected. You only want to separate the screen about an inch at this point.

3. Now that you have a clear view of the cables, use the pointed edge of your spudger tool in order to carefully remove the metal shield covering the Touch ID cable.

4. Make sure you don't lose the metal guard that covers the Touch ID connector.

5. Again, use the pointed edge of your spudger tool in order to disconnect Touch ID.

6. You can now safely swing the display up more in order to see where the display is connected to the board.
7. Remove the four screws holding down the shield that covers the display cables. To do this, use your #000 screwdriver.

8. Once all four screws are removed, carefully remove the shield and set it aside.

9. Now use your spudger tool in order to remove the three cables shown in the image below.

10. The display assembly should now be free from the body of the phone. Go ahead and set everything but the display assembly aside now.

Note: We used the suction cup method here but you can also carefully insert a razor blade or opening tool into the bottom of your iPhone 5s on either side of the Home button. Carefully work your way around the bottom of the phone between the frame and display assembly until you can gently pry up using the flat end of your spudger tool instead. We recommend using plastic razor blades if you can find them since they won't cause damage to the finish of the iPhone's frame.

4. Replace the earpiece

1. Remove the two screws holding the earpiece speaker and bracket in place from the top of the assembly. For this, use your #000 screwdriver.

2. Carefully loosen the earpiece bracket and lift it upwards. Note that there are clips on each side that you may need to bend outwards slightly in order for the bracket and earpiece to come out. Don't pull hard as you may break or bend the bracket.

3. Replace the old earpiece from your iPhone 5s with the new one. Be sure to line it up correctly so that the contacts on the underside sit where they should.
4. Replace the bracket and two screws.

5. Re-assemble your iPhone 5s

Once you've gotten the new earpiece seated correctly and screwed back down, it's time to reassemble your iPhone 5s.

Take note that there are small clips that run along the top of the display that you'll need to line up in order for it to snap down correctly. You can clearly see them in the photo above. Don't force the display if it isn't snapping into the brackets along the side. Make sure you're lining up the top correctly and try again. If the top doesn't want to sit correctly, make sure the earpiece bracket is placed correctly. If the clips on the side aren't completely flush, it will cause issues with seating the screen properly. Make sure you check all these points before pushing down on the display.

6. Replace the security screws on each side of the dock connector

Now that the display is back in place, use your security screwdriver in order to replace the two screws on either side of the dock connector.

7. Test the earpiece speaker

It's now safe to turn your iPhone 5s back on. If all went well, you should see an Apple logo. Once your iPhone 5s finishes booting up completely, make sure you check the following functions since the components involved were transferred, replaced, or moved around:

• Place a test call and make sure the earpiece is now functioning properly
• Test all areas of the digitizer to make sure the display assembly was not damaged when it was removed
• While on a call, place your finger over the sensors at the top over the earpiece to verify the display turns itself off, as it should when your face is touching the display while on a call
• Toggle from earpiece to speakerphone to ensure that the call transfer properly

If all of the above checked out okay, you're good to go!

If you aren't fully covered by Apple Care or that isn't an option in your country, performing an iPhone repair on your own is always an option. Luckily, an earpiece replacement isn't difficult and costs a tiny fraction of what a new iPhone would cost you.

What you need to fix a blown iPhone 5c earpiece

You'll need some tools and parts in order to repair your iPhone 5c. iMore recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like iFixYouri. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• Replacement earpiece
• Suction cup
• 5-point security screwdriver
• Standard #000 Phillips screwdriver
• Spudger tool
• Razor blade
• iSesamo Opening tool (not necessary but awesome for prying up cables and getting under adhesive)

1. Power off your iPhone

Before performing any repair on any iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch you should always remember to power it off. Simply hold down on the Power button until you see Slide to Power off. One you're sure your iPhone is turned off, proceed to the next section.

2. Remove the two security screws on both sides of the dock connector

There are two security screws that secure the screen to the frame and they sit on each side of the dock connector. Use your 5-point security screwdriver to remove them. They are both the same size so it's okay if you mix them up.

3. Remove the display assembly

1. Place your suction cup slightly above the Home button assembly and secure it to the screen.

2. Holding the iPhone in place with one hand, gently pull upwards on the suction cup until you free the bottom of the screen. You should now be able to use your fingers to slowly raise up the screen and expose where the front assembly is connected to the logic board.
3. Remove the four screws holding down the shield that covers the display cables. To do this, use your #000 screwdriver. These screws are different sizes so make sure you keep them organized in a way you can remember for re-assembly.

4. Once all four screws are removed, carefully remove the shield and set it aside.

5. Now use your spudger tool in order to remove the three cables shown in the image below.

6. The display assembly should now be free from the body of the phone. Go ahead and set everything but the display assembly aside now.

4. Replace the earpiece assembly

1. Remove the two screws holding the earpiece speaker and bracket in place from the top of the assembly. For this, use your #000 screwdriver.

2. Carefully loosen the earpiece bracket and lift it upwards. Note that there are clips on each side that you may need to bend outwards slightly in order for the bracket and earpiece to come out. Don't pull hard as you may break or bend the bracket.

3. Replace the old earpiece with the new earpiece assembly and position the shield on top of it.
4. Replace the two screws that secure the earpiece assembly and bracket using your #000 screwdriver.

5. Re-connect the display assembly

1. Carefully reconnect the three cables running from the display assembly to the logic board.

2. Reposition the metal shield that sits over the three cables and replace the four screws that hold it in place, remembering where each one came from — they are all different sizes.

3. Line up the top of the screen carefully and make note of the teeth that line up to the top of your iPhone 5c's frame. Once the top of the display is lined up, carefully snap down the remainder by moving your fingers along the edge.

6. Replace the security screws on each side of the dock connector

Once you are confident that the display is seated correctly again, use your security screwdriver in order to replace the two screws on either side of the dock connector.

7. Test the new earpiece assembly

It's now safe to turn your iPhone 5c back on. If all went well, you should see an Apple logo. Once your iPhone finishes booting up, make sure you check the following functions to test the new earpiece speaker:

• Place a call and listen through the earpiece to make sure you can hear what's coming through on the receiving end
• Toggle to speakerphone and back again to make sure the call transfers correctly
• Place your finger over the top center of your iPhone 5c's screen to cover the ambient light sensor while in a call. Make sure the screen turns off as it should when your iPhone is against your face

If all of the above checked out okay, you're good to go!

The iPhone 5s has been on the market for a while now and remains a perennial best seller around the world. The Amazon Fire Phone is brand new, just in the U.S., and only on AT&T at the moment. Both command a premium price. The iPhone has a bleeding edge 64-bit processor, a great camera, Touch ID fingerprint identity sensor, and apps from every major provider, including Apple, Google, and Amazon. The Fire Phone has even more faux-3D than iOS 7, a hardware shopping system in FireFly, a Mayday button for instant help, and last year's chipsets warmed over. So, which one should you buy?

Regionalism

The Kindle Fire phone is currently U.S. only. If you buy it in the U.S. and try to use it internationally, you'll have to give up major features like Amazon Streaming Video.

The iPhone 5s is a world phone that can work in almost any region.

Carriers

The Fire Phone is currently AT&T only. You can try to run it on other GSM networks, but see Regionalism (above).

The iPhone 5s is available on the vast majority of carriers on planet earth.

Apps

The Fire Phone has the Amazon Appstore, which doesn't include apps from Google — which some would argue are the lynchpin of Android — and of course, no apps from Apple. There are Amazon's apps, and many but not all major third-party apps.

The iPhone 5s has the Apple App Store, which includes apps from Apple, as well as all major apps from Google and Amazon, and pretty much any and all major third party apps you could want or imagine.

And more

The Fire Phone has some interesting features. The interface looks terrible, and the faux-3D will likely make anyone bothered by iOS 7 parallax run for the hills. The FireFly button, to a cynic, is just a way to get Amazon Prime whales to spend even more, but to an optimist is an interested way to compare real world and virtual world shopping and gather information. The Mayday button can get help for people not used to smartphones... but that probably isn't anyone who'd buy a Fire Phone to begin with. It's about the same price but starts at 32GB and comes with a free year of Amazon Prime, a $99 value, to subsidize the price. FireOS is an Android fork that gets none of the Google Play services and since this is a version one, it's untested. Unfortunately, the chips inside aren't cutting edge either and its hard to tell how well it will age or hold its value.

The iPhone 5s has an industry-leading 64-bit Apple A7 processor that allows for features like the Touch ID fingerprint identity scanner. It has AppleCare and Apple Genius bars for support. It starts at 16GB and there's no kickback, but it holds its resale value incredibly well. It also runs iOS, soon to be iOS 8. If Apple holds to pattern, there will also be a new iPhone 6 (or two) this fall, perhaps with bigger screens and even more advanced technology.

Bottom line

I've found an affordable battery case and optional holster that takes my mind off my iPhone 5S battery once and for all. It's Seidio's Innocell Plus.

I have to admit that Samsung's "Wall Huggers" ad resonated with me, as an iPhone 5S user.

Usually near the end of the day — and sometimes, when I get really busy, even sooner — my iPhone is redlined. It sometimes gets down to single digit percent charges before I'm able to plug it in. And even then, once or twice, I've lost juice all together.

Fact is I use my iPhone a lot when I'm out. It's my lifeline to the Internet, my connection to work, and in many cases my ability to get a working Internet connection for my laptop, when I'm on the road. All this stuff uses energy, and the iPhone 5 and 5S can only hold so much charge.

Now we can argue whether Apple should do more to improve battery life on our iDevices, but the status quo means that some of us are running at a real deficit when it comes to juice. The question is, what are we gonna do about it?

Seidio Innocell Plus

Seidio's Innocell Plus is an attractive and affordable way to avoid having that happen. It lets me fully recharge my fully depleted iPhone 5S battery plus has charge left over — about 125 percent the charge of the iPhone 5S's battery.

The case is in two pieces — a battery back that connects to the iPhone 5S using an integrated Lightning connector, and a frame that acts like an iPhone bumper, with volume controls, on/off button and cut out for the mute switch. The frame clips to the battery pack to hold it in place.

Black, the case has a soft powdered finish that makes it easy to grip. The powdered finish does mark up with finger oil and other contamination easily, however, so count on it often looking scuffed, even though the scuffs come out with some cleaning.

The back of the case incorporates a rectangular button with four blue lights embedded in the case horizontally, two astride each side of the button. The lights serve as the battery meter.

When charging from the micro USB cable (included), the lights will flash to show that the case is charging, otherwise they're off, unless you press the button to check their status. Pressing the button twice turns the case on and off. It'll automatically shut off once the iPhone is charged back up.

The back itself is sculpted with a delicate bezel that reminds me a bit of the rounded back of the original iPhone. It's comfortable in the hand, though it does add some bulk: With the Innocell Plus on, the iPhone grows about 0.59 inches (15 mm) longer, 0.2 inches (5 mm) wider and 0.30 inches (7.7 mm) thicker. It also gets 2.5 ounces (72 g) heavier.

The case leaves the iPhone's camera and flash unrestricted, and the extra space south of the iPhone 5 or 5's case is used cleverly: Ports channel the speaker audio and amplify it a bit, making your iPhone 5 or 5S louder as a speakerphone or music playback system.

Seidio opening for the headphone jack is wide enough to accommodate lots of different cables, but its depth complicates things if you're using earbuds or headphones that use a right-angle jack. It also keeps my Square reader from working when I help my kids with the farmer's markets on the weekends, which is kind of a bummer.

The included Micro USB cable works just fine with the iPhone's included wall charger or anything else you want to use, including a Mac or PC (it works for syncing too). Of course Micro USB isn't reversible like Lightning is, which makes for more cable fumbling to charge the thing.

Of course, just like every other iPhone battery case, the Innocell Plus won't fit docks and other products designed to fit the iPhone 5/5S sans case. But it's easy enough to get on and off that that's no big deal.

The Good

• Plenty of juice to keep your iPhone going extra long
• Powdered finish and sculpted back are easy to hold
• Bumper can be used without battery pack.

The Bad

• Micro USB cable and added bulk reduce compatibility with other iPhone 5/5S accessories
• Extended length limits compatibility with right-angle headphone cables
• Adds bulk and weight

The Bottom Line

Seidio's Innocell Plus provides an elegant and comfortable way to more than double your iPhone's run time when you're on the road or away from a wall charger.

• $67.95 - Buy now

Seidio Innocell Plus Holster

Seidio also makes available a holster for the Innocell Plus. It can be clipped to your belt, pants or bag. The holster is lightweight but strong. The holster holds the iPhone with the screen facing inward, to protect the glass from accidental damage as you're carrying it.

The holster is useless if the iPhone is taken out of the Innocell Plus case — this isn't a "naked" iPhone belt clip. But with the Innocell Plus in place, your iPhone is safe and secure.

The holster has six supports plus a spring-loaded latch that clips it into place - a lock button on the back keeps the latch from opening, which will keep the phone secure until you're ready to remove it. Slide the lock button and pop the clip and the iPhone comes right out.

The belt clip will rotate into 12 different positions horizontal and vertical (allowing the phone to rotate 180 degrees)l, to help you find a comfortable position when you're sitting.

The Innocell Plus Holster is available on its own, but it's also included as part of a bundle with the Innocell Plus itself.

The Good

• Protects iPhone screen by positioning it inward.
• Rotates so it won't press into your side when you're sitting down.

The Bad

• Only works with Innocell Plus case

The Bottom Line

Not all of us want to wear an iPhone case with a belt clip, even if that clip is attached to a bag or some other object besides our belt. But for those of us that do, the Innocase Plus Holster is a good accompaniment to the Innocase Plus itself.

• $27.95 - Buy now

Innocell Plus and Holster:

• $86.30 - Buy now

The iPhone 5s has been on the market for nearly 9 months, and in that time it has reigned as the best selling smartphone around the world. For nine months straight, in any given quarter, no phone has sold more units than the iPhone. Or so says Counterpoint Technology Research Firm. That's especially impressive when you consider that in our modern technology world, the iPhone 5s is now "old" and our attention has turned to the hotly-anticipated iPhone 6. And considering how many challengers have come along and threatened to dethrone the aging 5s, most notably the Samsung Galaxy S5, it's even more impressive.

That Samsung Galaxy S5 did come in second, though. And Samsung also snapped up the #3 and #4 positions with the Galaxy S4 and Note 3. The next two slots were occupied by the iPhone 5c and iPhone 4s. When you look at the top ten smartphones for the last quarter, globally Apple and Samsung account for all but two.

It's safe to say that in three months (or so) the #1 slot dominance of the iPhone 5s will come to an end. Of course, that's because it will be replaced by the iPhone 6, which leads to our question: what does the iPhone 6 need to grab and secure the top-selling smartphone slot for another year?

Source: Counterpoint Technology Research Firm; Via: Business Insider

Have an iPhone 5 that won't seem to charge past 1% or boot up at all anymore after the battery was completely depleted? It seems that you aren't alone. According to UK repair company mendmyi, who has seen an influx of iPhone 5's with this particular issue, the problem is a prime example of why you shouldn't use cheap cables to charge your iPhone.

While we all hear the warnings about using cheap chargers and USB cables, we all know that not everyone will listen. In this particular case, cheap chargers and cables are damaging the U2 IC chip that sits on the logic board of the iPhone 5. This particular chip controls the charge to the battery, the sleep/wake button, and certain USB functions. A damaged U2 IC chip ends up causing the iPhone 5 to not turn back on once it's depleted. A replacement battery brings the iPhone 5 back to life, but once that battery depleted, you'll be stuck in the same position again.

Owner of mendmyi, Riki Baker, has this to say about what is causing the issue -

If you have an iPhone 5 that seems to be dead or won't charge past 1% and you're using a charger that isn't from Apple or certified by them, this is most likely your problem. mendmyi is currently offering repairs to fix the U2 IC chip but if you aren't within the UK, you can check with other local repair companies or an Apple Store to see what your options are.

Hit the link below to read mendmyi's explanation of the problem as well as detailed photos showing a working U2 IC chip and a damaged one.

Source: mendmyi

Having issues with your out-of-warranty iPhone 5 and need to know how to fix it? Whether it's a broken screen, bad battery, stuck power button, or something else, almost anything can be fixed with the right tools, parts, instructions, and a little determination. If you think you've got what it takes to tackle an iPhone 5 repair on your own in order to save some cash, iMore can provide you step by step instructions for each repair as well as recommend high quality part and tool suppliers to make sure the job's done right!

How to fix an iPhone 5 smashed screen

Have an iPhone 5 with a busted screen? Broken screens aren't ever covered under the standard AppleCare warranty, and if you didn't opt for AppleCare+, a replacement iPhone 5 can cost a few hundred dollars. However, a replacement screen itself isn't that expensive. And as luck would have it, an iPhone 5 screen replacement only takes a few minutes and is one of the easier repairs to perform, unlike it's predecessor, the iPhone 4s.

• How to replace an iPhone 5 broken screen

How to replace an iPhone 5 battery

The iPhone 5 is going on almost 2 years old and that means the battery is probably starting to show its age. Whether your iPhone 5 is overheating or just isn't holding a charge like it used to, a replacement battery could solve either problem. Another common issue many iPhone 5 users have seen is their phone randomly turning off between 20-40% battery life and not turning back on until it's plugged in. This is a pretty common defect with iPhone 5 batteries and one that is easily solved with a replacement battery. Luckily, this is another super simple repair to perform!

• How to replace the battery in your iPhone 5

How to fix a stuck or broken power button in an iPhone 5

The power button has been an iPhone pain point since the introduction of the iPhone 4. However, the iPhone 5 seems to be even more prone to faulty power buttons. Apple even issued a power button recall that allows iPhone 5 owners that meet the criteria to send their iPhone 5 off for repair, free of charge. Unfortunately, not everyone that has the issue qualifies. If you're one of those individuals, we can walk you through fixing the issue that causes your power button to become recessed or stop depressing. It isn't one of the easiest repairs to perform, but it's definitely possible!

• How to fix a stuck or broken power button in an iPhone 5

How to fix a problem Home button on your iPhone 5

Like the power button, Home buttons are another issue for many iPhone owners. After all, it's one of the only 2 buttons that are used regularly. While iPhone 5 owners don't seem as prone to Home button issues as the iPhone 4 and iPhone 4s, it still happens from time to time. Typically symptoms of a bad Home button include double taps registering as single taps, a soft spongy feel, or in extreme instances, the Home button ceases to work at all. if any of those sound like you, replace the Home button cable should have you fixed right up in no time!

• How to fix a problem Home button your iPhone 5

How to fix a broken charge port or headphone jack in an iPhone 5

The iPhone 5 introduced the Lightning dock for charging. We no longer have to remember which way to plug our cord in and there are less moving parts to break. However, corrosion from moisture can still happen and parts can still fail. The dock assembly in the iPhone 5 contains both the charge port and the headphone jack. So if you're experience issues with either including your iPhone 5 not charging, no sound playing with headphones plugged in, or intermittent charging, hit the link on a complete guide for replacing the entire assembly.

• How to fix a broken charge port in an iPhone 5

How to replace the wifi antenna in an iPhone 5

We consume a lot of data on our iPhones and that makes the wifi antenna extremely important. Without it, it's possible to rack up all kinds of carrier charges for data usage. A broken wifi antenna in an iPhone 5 could present in many ways including no wifi signal or the inability to locate any wireless networks and not being able to connect to a network at all. In rare instances, some folks have been able to successfully connect to a network but data never loads. If any of these scenarios sounds like something you're experiencing, a wifi antenna replacement could fix the issue.

• How to replace the wifi antenna in an iPhone 5

How to fix a broken earpiece in an iPhone 5

The earpiece in the iPhone 5 is located on the back of the screen assembly. When you're on a phone call, it's what you listen to callers on, and shouldn't be confused with the loud speaker. If you're experiencing distorted sound or you can't hear people when they talk, you could need a replacement earpiece assembly.

• How to fix a broken earpiece in an iPhone 5

How to fix a blown loud speaker in an iPhone 5

The other part of the sound we hear on an iPhone 5 is contributed to the loud speaker. This is what plays music when headphones aren't plugged in, plays audible alert tones, and broadcasts our callers over speakerphone. Many things can go wrong with the speakerphone included distorted sounds, intermittent sound, and in the most extreme cases, no sound at all. If any of those scenarios are something you're experiencing, you could need a new loud speaker.

• How to fix a blown loud speaker in an iPhone 5

How to fix a broken vibrator in your iPhone 5

The vibrator assembly in the iPhone 5 is known to be finicky. In many instances, people that are having hardware issues with the vibrator either find that flipping the switch sometimes doesn't work, or the vibrate get very weak over time. If this happens, the vibrator assembly only takes a few minutes to swap out and you'll be in good working order again.

• How to fix a broken vibrator in your iPhone 5

How to fix the FaceTime camera in an iPhone 5

The front facing, or FaceTime camera, in the iPhone 5 is what we use to take selfies, use FaceTime video, and more. Like any hardware component, it can be prone to failure too. Symptoms of a failing FaceTime camera typically involve lines through the screen, but only with the front facing camera activated, or a black screen when you rotate to use the front camera. In rare instances, random pixelation could occur or the Camera app itself may freeze up when trying to use the FaceTime camera.

• How to fix the FaceTime camera in an iPhone 5

How to replace the rear iSight camera in an iPhone 5

The rear iSight camera in the iPhone 5 has been prone to fringing and purple spots on the lens since it debuted. While Apple will certainly swap any defects that are within their warranty period, a replacement camera for out of warranty folks is a much cheaper option. In rare instances, some people also experience flash issues which would require the entire camera assembly to be replaced as well.

• How to replace the rear iSight camera in an iPhone 5

Even more iPhone repair guides

Don't have an iPhone 5 but have a different iPhone? We've got those guides too! Whether you're rocking an iPhone 5s or an iPhone 4s, we can help you get any issue you may have in working order again! Just hit the following link for a complete list of all our DIY repair and hardware info!

• All DIY guides and news on Apple hardware

Unfortunately, the iPhone 5 has a history of power button issues. Apple even offered a repair program for iPhone 5 owners due to extremely high failure rates in regards to the power button. If you missed out on the aforementioned program, we can help you repair it yourself for far less than what a new iPhone or an out of warranty replacement could cost.

Before beginning, I'll state ahead of time that this repair is unique: There are actually two issues that can cause the power button in an iPhone 5 to malfunction. In the parts list below I'm going to link to both of the parts you need to fix either issue — the button itself and the cable. Don't worry, I'm not going to make you lay a new cable though, I'll give you a much easier solution, but you'll need the cable to implement it. Since the parts are incredibly cheap in relation to a new iPhone, I highly suggest buying both. You will only end up using one but it's better to only have to take your iPhone apart once, instead of twice.

What you need to DIY repair a stuck power button on an iPhone 5

You'll need some tools and parts in order to repair your iPhone 5. iMore recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like iFixYouri. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• Replacement power button
• Replacement power cable
• Suction cup
• 5-point security screwdriver
• Flat head screwdriver
• Standard #000 Phillips screwdriver
• Spudger tool
• Razor blade
• iSesamo Opening tool

Step 1: Power off your iPhone 5

Before beginning any repair, always power your iPhone down completely using the Slide to power off option. Easy enough right?

Step 2: Remove the front screen assembly

• To begin, use your security screwdriver to remove the two screws in the bottom of your iPhone 5 that sit on either side of the dock.

• Now place your suction cup above the Home button and gently pry up from the bottom. Take care not to pull the entire screen off as the top of the screen is still attached by several cables. You only want to release the bottom portion.

• Once the screen is free, swing up the display assembly so you can get to the shield that is holding the cables in place.

• Using your ##000 screwdriver to remove the three screws holding the display shield down. Set the shield aside and remember not to mix up the screws.

• Now use your spudger tool to pry up the three cables that attach the display to the board. After you do so, the display should be free from the device. As a side note, you can only see two of the cables (as marked in the photo below) as the third is underneath. Most of the time the third one simply pops up on its own when you remove the first two. You may need to free it but most likely, it'll come up on its own. The second photo below shows its location on the board for reference.

• Set the screen assembly aside once the display is free.

Alternate method: If you're having issues pulling the screen up with a suction cup, you may insert a razor blade on the outer edge of either screw hold and pry upwards slightly. This method gives you enough clearance to stick your spudger tool underneath and release the screen. I recommend this method if your hands aren't as steady or you're afraid you may pull too hard and damage a cable.

Step 3: Remove the battery

I'll preface this section by saying the plastic battery tabs to pull to release them are useless. They break off and/or bend the battery. You can try that method but I suggest following my instructions below instead.

• Start by removing the two screws shown in the photo below. This shield covers the battery connector itself. Use your #000 screwdriver for this.

• Now use your spudger tool in order to gently pry the connector off the board as shown.

• We are now ready to remove the battery, which is the hardest part and must be done with extreme caution as to prevent puncturing it or causing damage to the logic board. I use the iSesamo opening tool for battery removal because it's pliable and that means it's more delicate. You may use the flat end of a spudger tool if you'd like but I've found them to break off rather easily.
• In order to remove the battery, start at the top left corner and put your opening tool between the casing and the battery. Gently start lifting upwards. You should hear adhesive start to crack. Now slowly move your tool around the left side of the battery and gently pry upwards a little at a time. Each time you should hear more adhesive cracking. Just apply pressure evenly and move your pry tool each time.

• By the time you get to the bottom the adhesive should be nearly free, or free enough for you to grab hold of the battery and carefully break the rest and remove it.

It is important while performing the steps above that you're careful to not puncture or bend the battery. Just take your time and you'll get there. Don't rush and don't force it.

Step 4: Unplug the dock connector assembly

• Remove the dock connector shield by removing the 1 screw holding it in place. Use your #000 Phillips screwdriver for this.

• Next pry up the cable using your spudger tool. Also pry up the round connector cable which is found a little further down on the logic board and is pictured below.

Step 5: Remove the logic board

Note: It is important to make sure you do not mix up screws to the logic board. Place them in an order you know you will remember!

• Start at the top of the logic board by removing the two screws holding the top silver shield in place. They are located to the left of the camera assembly. Once you've removed the two screws with your #000 Phillips screwdriver, you can remove the shield. Note that it may still be tucked on the side of the camera so just be sure you don't bend or tear it when removing it.

• Use your #000 Phillips screwdriver again to remove the two screws in the top frame of your iPhone 5 as shown in the photo below.

• At the top of the logic board, unplug the three cables shown below using your nylon spudger tool. Be very careful not to tear any of them or rip off the connectors in the sockets. They are very delicate so treat them as such. The reason we are doing this is because one of the screws you'll need to remove in the next step is somewhat hidden by these cables.

• Now remove the five screws shown in the photo below. Three of them you'll need a flat head screwdriver for while the other two screws use a standard #000 Phillips screwdriver. You can tell the difference because the ones you use the flat head for the taller standoff screws. You should easily be able to tell the difference.

• Now remove the SIM tray from your iPhone 5. You can use a paperclip, SIM removal tool, or even the end of your security screwdriver should fit.

• You can now start lifting the logic board up from the bottom. However, do not pull up all the way. There is a cable still attached at the top as illustrated in the photo below. Carefully push down on this cable using your nylon spudger tool while gently lifting up on the board in order to free it.

• Once the round wifi connector has disconnected, you can pull the logic board completely out of your iPhone 5.

Step 6: Fix the stuck power button

• Remove the foam pad covering the power button shield using a flat razor blade. Try not to tear it as you'll want to put it back one you're done fixing the power button.

• Remove the single screw holding the power button shield in place using your #000 screwdriver.

• Remove the two screws shown in the photo below and carefully set them aside. Use your #000 screwdriver for the bottom screw and your flat head screwdriver for the top one.

• Set the shield underneath the two screws you just removed aside carefully, remembering how it came out.

• Use your razor blade or the flat side of your nylon spudger to gently push the power button mechanism inside the frame. Refer to the photo below. Be very careful not to tear the underlying cable. You'll need to remove the power button itself from the iPhone. Carefully wiggle it loose and pull it out. Don't force the shield either as it's held in with a pin on the right and doesn't completely come free.

• Turn the power button itself over and see if the metal contact spacer is still in tact. If it is not, replace the power button with the new one you purchased. Keep in mind the bracket goes downwards. You should then be able to replace the single screw holding the shield in place and test the power button to see if it depresses correctly. Don't worry about the small shield and other two screws for now. You're only testing at this point.

• If the power button depresses normally again and the missing silver contact was the issue, replace the shield, two screws, and foam spacer. Then continue to step 7.
• If the metal contact on your power button is still in tact, the power button cable itself is the issue. Luckily, 99.9% of the time, the cable is fine, but the tiny black dot that's located in the middle of the power button flex has fallen off. This in turn causes the button not to depress correctly.
• With the power button removed, look into the hole where your power button was so you can see the top of the cable. There should be a black dot like the one shown in the photo below. Odds are there isn't.

• Remove the black dot from the new power button cable and place it on the old cable, very carefully. In order to do this, you'll need to use your razor blade to peel back the tape on both the new and old cables. Transfer the dot and then replace the tape on the cable that is inside your iPhone 5. Be very careful when doing this because the black dot is very small and easy to lose. If you lose it, go ahead and use the ones on the new cable from the volume buttons if you need to. They are all the same.
• Once you're done, you can put the power button itself back into place and test it. It should depress correctly now.
• Now replace the shield and two screws* followed by the **foam backing you removed earlier.

Note: You are more than welcome to replace the entire cable if you'd like but replacing the black dot is not only easier, it saves you the hassle of having to fold and meticulously lay an entire cable. Unless your volume buttons or mute switch are also malfunctioning, I strongly recommend leaving the cable alone and just replacing the black dot.

Step 7: Replace the logic board

• Start by reconnecting the round wifi connector at the top. The easiest way to do this is by holding the logic board sideways and reconnecting it. Once it's connected, simply pivot the board back into place. Be sure when you're doing this that no cables in the frame get stuck underneath the logic board.

• Once the board is in place, be sure the camera and flash diffuser are placed correctly.

• Replace the SIM tray in your iPhone 5. This is an easy way to be sure your iPhone 5's logic board is in place. If the SIM tray won't go in, do not force it. This means the board is not lined up correctly. Re-align it and try again. Once it slides in easily, you're in good shape. The SIM tray also serves as a great way to hold the board in place while you replace screws.

• Now replace the five screws you took out earlier using both the #000 screwdriver and the flat head screwdriver.

• Replace the two screws at the very top of the logic board using your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

• You can now re-connect the three cables at the top of the logic board as well as the two cables at the bottom — the round connector cable and the dock connecter cable.

• Replace the top silver shield and the two screws that hold it in place, use your #000 Phillips screwdriver for this.

Step 8: Reconnect the dock connector assembly

• Now reconnect the round connector at the bottom of the logic board that it connected to the dock assembly.

• Lastly, reconnect the dock connector cable and replace the shield with your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

Step 9: Replace the battery

• Carefully lay the battery back down into place. Press firmly in order to cause the adhesive to grab hold of the back casing again.

• Reconnect the battery connector by carefully lining it up and pressing firmly with your finger.
• Reposition the battery shield and use your #000 screwdriver to replace the two screws.

Step 10: Reconnect the display assembly

• Re-attach the three cables for the display back to the board of your iPhone 5.

• Carefully re-position the display shield over the cables once you're sure they are secure.
• Replace the three screws you removed previously using your ##000 screwdriver. Sometimes the top right screw is not magnetized and may be a little tricky to get back in. I normally guide it in with my finger and then use the screwdriver. Makes for an easier job.

• Now snap the display back down and into place. Be sure to line up the grooves in the top of the screen inside the frame. If you are facing resistance, do not force the display down. Make sure everything is lined up properly and that the clips in the top are aligned properly. Then try gently pressing down again.
• Replace the two screws that sit on either side of the Lightning dock using your security screwdriver.

Step 11: Test your newly fixed iPhone 5 power button

Even though you tested the power button in terms of hardware, it's still good to test it afterward to make sure it's working correctly. Perform these steps to fully test it:

• Unlock and lock your iPhone 5 several times using the power button
• Hold down the power button and make sure the Slide to Power Off dialog appears
• Hold down the Home button and Power button together and make sure your iPhone 5 reboots
• Test your volume buttons and mute switch and make sure they're functioning since they are on the same cable as the power button

If all checks out okay, you're good to go! If you run into problems, be sure to check out our iMore mod forums for answers to commonly asked questions.

Other symptoms of a bad wifi antenna could also include not being able to find networks at all. In rare cases, some folks have even thought they were connected to wifi only to find that no data will load, regardless of what network they're on. If any of these scenarios sound like something you're experiencing, we can walk you through how to DIY repair the wifi antenna on your own.

What you need to DIY replace an iPhone 5 wifi antenna

You'll need some tools and parts in order to repair your iPhone 5. iMore recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like iFixYouri. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• Replacement wifi antenna
• Suction cup
• 5-point security screwdriver
• Flat head screwdriver
• Standard #000 Phillips screwdriver
• Spudger tool
• Razor blade
• iSesamo Opening tool

Step 1: Power off your iPhone 5

Before beginning any repair, always power your iPhone down completely using the Slide to power off option. Easy enough right?

Step 2: Remove the front screen assembly

• To begin, use your security screwdriver to remove the two screws in the bottom of your iPhone 5 that sit on either side of the dock.

• Now place your suction cup above the Home button and gently pry up from the bottom. Take care not to pull the entire screen off as the top of the screen is still attached by several cables. You only want to release the bottom portion.

• Once the screen is free, swing up the display assembly so you can get to the shield that is holding the cables in place.

• Using your ##000 screwdriver to remove the three screws holding the display shield down. Set the shield aside and remember not to mix up the screws.

• Now use your spudger tool to pry up the three cables that attach the display to the board. After you do so, the display should be free from the device. As a side note, you can only see two of the cables (as marked in the photo below) as the third is underneath. Most of the time the third one simply pops up on its own when you remove the first two. You may need to free it but most likely, it'll come up on its own. The second photo below shows its location on the board for reference.

• Set the screen assembly aside once the display is free.

Alternate method: If you're having issues pulling the screen up with a suction cup, you may insert a razor blade on the outer edge of either screw hold and pry upwards slightly. This method gives you enough clearance to stick your spudger tool underneath and release the screen. I recommend this method if your hands aren't as steady or you're afraid you may pull too hard and damage a cable.

Step 3: Remove the battery

I'll preface this section by saying the plastic battery tabs to pull to release them are useless. They break off and/or bend the battery. You can try that method but I suggest following my instructions below instead.

• Start by removing the two screws shown in the photo below. This shield covers the battery connector itself. Use your #000 screwdriver for this.

• Now use your spudger tool in order to gently pry the connector off the board as shown.

• We are now ready to remove the battery, which is the hardest part and must be done with extreme caution as to prevent puncturing it or causing damage to the logic board. I use the iSesamo opening tool for battery removal because it's pliable and that means it's more delicate. You may use the flat end of a spudger tool if you'd like but I've found them to break off rather easily.
• In order to remove the battery, start at the top left corner and put your opening tool between the casing and the battery. Gently start lifting upwards. You should hear adhesive start to crack. Now slowly move your tool around the left side of the battery and gently pry upwards a little at a time. Each time you should hear more adhesive cracking. Just apply pressure evenly and move your pry tool each time.

• By the time you get to the bottom the adhesive should be nearly free, or free enough for you to grab hold of the battery and carefully break the rest and remove it.

It is important while performing the steps above that you're careful to not puncture or bend the battery. Just take your time and you'll get there. Don't rush and don't force it.

Step 4: Unplug the dock connector assembly

• Remove the dock connector shield by removing the 1 screw holding it in place. Use your #000 Phillips screwdriver for this.

• Next pry up the cable using your spudger tool. Also pry up the round connector cable which is found a little further down on the logic board and is pictured below.