Apple has added a new 'Repair Assistant' to iOS 18, the latest update for compatible iPhones, to better help users manage used genuine parts when repairing their handset.

First announced in a back in April, MacRumors has since uncovered more details about the tool. With 'Repair Assistant', users can now pair genuine parts, such as a display, battery, camera module, and more, with an iPhone themselves, or by a third-party repair provider. Previously, this step of the repair process was handled by Apple, but iOS 18 enables users to complete the step solo. Apple says that 'Repair Assistant' only works with iPhone 12 models and later.

In addition, iOS 18 allows users to check any replacement parts by going to Settings > About > Parts and Service. 

This update is packed with new features, including the ability to customize your Home Screen with dark app icons, as well as the ability to place your apps anywhere. iOS 18 is set to be released later today for compatible iPhones.

A win for everyone, especially for retail workers

In what feels like a previous life, I used to work as tech support for a phone store, fixing software issues on countless smartphones and tablets. Often, customers would bring in iPhones that couldn't be fixed on-site.  In these cases, we had to send the handset off for diagnosis through the store's repair program. Once a technician looked at the iPhone, we'd receive a quote for the repair. If the customer accepted it, the device would be fixed — but the whole process would take at least three weeks.

Being without a device like an iPhone for that long is frustrating, especially if it's used for work. From experience, I can say that retail staff often bore the brunt of frustrations from customers with these long turnaround times.

Now, with 'Repair Assistant' in iOS 18, that frustration will mostly become a thing of the past. Customers will have greater flexibility to repair their iPhones as third-party repair shops will be able to pair a used genuine part without having to send the device off to Apple. This reduces the risk of compatibility issues with parts and saves valuable time for the customer.

Ultimately, this new change benefits everyone. Customers will enjoy faster repairs, and retail staff can guide them to local repair services — or, if they're comfortable, customers can buy a part and attempt a repair themselves.

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Apple's latest iPhones are the best iPhones for durability. The iPhone 15 and iPhone 15 Pro come with Apple's Ceramic Shield on top of already durable glass. And the new titanium frame is touted to be more durable. For those of us who've always wondered if our iPhones could survive the apocalypse, YouTube durability tests are good entertainment. But it turns out Apple’s got us covered, having done much more extreme testing before new iPhones ever hit the shelves.

MKBHD got an exclusive peek into Apple's secretive durability testing labs, courtesy of John Ternus, Apple’s chief of hardware. Now, if you thought you were careful with your phone, just wait until you hear about the lengths Apple goes to ensure your iPhone doesn't turn into a pricey paperweight.

How Apple tests iPhones for durability

First up, iPhones go through the water ingress test. Imagine your iPhone taking a 360-degree shower with 13 streams of water jetting at it from all angles – yes, like a dishwasher. Apple has a whole room dedicated to just water and dust testing. Not one, not two, but four levels of water testing. From a gentle drip tray simulation to a full-on firehose spray, and then locking the phone underwater with extra pressure to mimic deep-sea adventures. Because, you know, in case you drop your phone while scuba diving.

And that's just the beginning. For the drop test, Apple’s got industrial robots doing hundreds of drops in slow motion. Sorry YouTubers, your gravity tests have nothing on this. They even have a shake test that mimics the vibrations of an iPhone being in a biker’s pocket.

John Ternus also shed light on Apple’s philosophy about durability versus repairability. He argues that making devices tougher, even if it means they're a bit trickier to repair, is ultimately better for both the customer and the planet. Fewer failures mean less waste, and hey, who doesn’t want their iPhone to survive a nuclear blast? Of course, this doesn’t sit well with the Right to Repair advocates, who prefer to repair their devices themselves.

So, if you were ever in doubt about the robustness of your iPhone, rest assured, Apple’s throwing everything (including the kitchen sink) at these devices before they ever reach your hands. If you want to see all the action, head over to MKBHD’s Twitter/X and check out the videos (see above).

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Apple has just announced that the company will expand repair options for consumers by adding support for used genuine parts. This change, alongside other new features like Activation Lock for parts like displays, will be introduced this fall and is one of Apple’s best consumer moves in years.

I used to work at the Genius Bar, repairing the best iPhones regularly to ensure customers would have the same experience after a repair as when they first purchased their smartphone. While these changes may not grab the headlines like a new product launch, they will make your iPhone experience much more enjoyable and I’m here to tell you why.

Giving used Apple parts ge a new lease of life

Select iPhone models, beginning this fall, will benefit from this new program which allows customers and independent repair providers to use used Apple parts in repairs. Apple says “the new process is designed to maintain an iPhone user’s privacy, security, and safety, while offering consumers more options, increasing product longevity, and minimizing the environmental impact of a repair.” In other words, you’ll be able to get your iPhone fixed above board with secondhand parts, which in turn should reduce issues with third-party repair services offering temperamental repair options.

Apple wants to make it clear that these used parts will be able to go through the full original factory calibration process to ensure they function as intended and have no potential issues such as multitouch problems on display modules. 

John Ternus, Apple’s senior vice president of Hardware Engineering said “With this latest expansion to our repair program, we’re excited to be adding even more choice and convenience for our customers, while helping to extend the life of our products and their parts.”

Previously, used parts were not compatible with iPhone repairs with elements like the biometric sensors used for Face ID or Touch ID locked to the original device they were initially calibrated with. These changes allow Apple to preserve “the privacy, security, and safety of iPhone,” while giving consumers more options for repairs. The calibration for genuine Apple parts will happen for both new and used parts on the device allowing biometric sensors to have a second lease of life. 

From a consumer perspective, this change should allow for cheaper repairs and remove potential issues with customers receiving secondhand parts from repair shops. During my time at Apple, I would see customers with non-functioning Touch ID or Face ID after a third-party repair. While that was often down to the use of non-genuine parts, adding the ability to use secondhand parts could push more consumers to seek official repairs.

A huge win for consumers

Another huge change announced today is the addition of Activation Lock to iPhone parts making it more difficult for thieves to make a profit from stolen devices. Apple says “the feature was designed to limit iPhone theft by blocking a lost or stolen iPhone from being reactivated.” This means that if a used part from a device with Activation Mode or Lost Mode is reused, it will fail the calibration process and the part will be restricted.

iPhones with Find My enabled already deter thieves and this addition means there is even less incentive to steal a device to take apart and sell on. 

Additionally, Apple has added repair histories to Settings on iOS, allowing owners of refurbished or secondhand devices to see what previous repairs have happened to the iPhones. This is possibly the biggest change for consumers announced today, giving peace of mind to anyone purchasing a used iPhone. The Parts and Service history section of Settings will arrive in the fall, which could see the feature be exclusive to iOS 18 expected to be released alongside the iPhone 16 in September. 

Apple says it is the “only smartphone company that transparently shows owners whether their device has been repaired and provides information about the parts used.”

Speaking to iMore, an ex-Apple employee said, “I can recall several occasions working at the Genius Bar where a customer had purchased a device that was sold with the tagline of having “new” genuine Apple parts, but the reality when you opened up the device was far from it.”

“There were also instances of people purchasing a device secondhand, and coming back to Apple wanting to know if it had ever been repaired via the official channels in the past. Knowing this information will be readily available by default, and it not being something you have to search out, only puts more faith in the second-hand market.”

These changes are a huge step in the right direction for iPhone users and ones that should make future repairs easier and more efficient.

After years of users doing it anyway, Apple has finally published guidance confirming that putting your iPhone in a bag of rice isn't a great way to deal with liquid getting inside your phone.

In an update to the "liquid-detection alert" support page (thanks, Macworld), Apple now states, under the section about what not to do, "Don't put your iPhone in a bag of rice. Doing so could allow small particles of rice to damage your iPhone."

It's less of an issue with more recent iPhones, which have been waterproofed for up to thirty minutes in up to 6 meters of water for a few years, but Apple now recommends just tapping your phone against your hand to shake water loose, then waiting 30 minutes before attempting to charge.

If that doesn't work, leave it to dry and try again after 24 hours, Apple says. Aside from rice, the company also recommends avoiding cotton swabs or paper towels.

Why use a bag of rice when repairing an iPhone?

A sort of "tech hack urban legend", many users (myself included) have felt the pang of dread when realizing there's water inside your device, and placed it in a bowl of rice to dry out.

The reason is that rice grains absorb liquids quickly, and on some occasions can help dry the internals to the point where a phone is usable again.

The new guidance from Apple, however, suggests that this could cause more harm than good - although some users feel this could be a more cynical move.

Over on r/gadgets, one user joked “Stop putting your iPhones in rice, just buy a new one" while another mockingly said "It's official. The decade-long technique we all used at some point, somehow, magically stopped working for iPhones."

Another asked, "Will the rice do more or less damage than the toilet water my phone sat in for 8 seconds while I panicked trying to figure out what to do?"

That's something only you can answer, friend.

Right-to-repair has been a movement that has gained significant traction, and some companies have been making efforts to ensure better repairability of products. Apple has made significant improvements as well, introducing the Self Service Repair program last year.

It also made the iPhone 14 more repairable on the whole, with easier disassembly and allowing the back glass to be replaced in a much easier fashion. Mark Gurman, in his Power On newsletter, said that this approach is going to be expanded with the iPhone 15 Pro, which will also have redesigned internals to better aid repairability.

Pro models set to get more repairable with the iPhone 15 series

Last year, Apple redesigned its cheaper iPhone 14 to be more repairable. However, there wasn't any mention or discovery of the Pro models getting the same change. However, this year, it seems like Apple is going to implement these changes across the entire lineup of its best iPhone.

Apparently, when the iPhone 15 launches in September, the iPhone 15 Pro will arrive with a redesign that will make it more repairable. Gurman wrote, "The inside of the iPhone 15 Pro is redesigned to match the revamped aluminum chassis from the regular iPhone 14 (iFixit has a rundown of the changes). That overhaul makes the phone easier to repair."

As Gurman notes, iFixit had noted the changes in the iPhone 14's frame, which included a three-layer design for better acccess, calling it a beautiful butterfly with "a midframe in the middle, accessible screen on the left, and removable rear glass on the right." Apple had redesigned the iPhone 14 from the ground up, improving repairability as well as the phone's ingress protection. 

Apple will port over this to the frame of the iPhone 15 Pro, making it more repairable. To users, it won't look different on the outside, since the engineering if this aspect has been seamless. However, it's good to know that the next iPhone will have better repairability across the board.

The Apple third-party repair program is supposed to make it easier for small businesses and users to repair the best iPhones and other Apple kit. Unfortunately, however, it looks like it's not as good as it looks on paper.

A report in The Guardian says that "delays in the process and high pricing for parts make it almost impossible to compete with the juggernaut." 

It's hard to say whether Apple is deliberately throttling access to parts and equipment so that more users come to it directly for repairs, but some companies certainly seem to think that this is the case.

Right to repair

The program came about in 2021, when Apple was pressured by a review into recognising the right to repair for customers beyond its own first-party service. At the time, it was lauded as a "way for small companies to compete with Apple to repair their products – such as the iPhone – using Apple tools and spare parts." Those that would benefit from the program however viewed it as a token effort to stave off potential legislation around the right to repair.

The Guardian Australia has now spoken to some third-party repairers in the US and Australia who suggest that long response times from Apple and expensive parts make it "almost impossible to be viable competitors" against Apple itself.

Even though Apple has indicated that there is an 8-week wait to get brought into the program, some repairers in the report indicate that the wait can be more like six months. "It feels like the applications sit in a black hole, without any point of contact within Apple to provide an update on their status," said one involved in the program.

The repair program should be a way that Apple shows that it's serious about the right to repair, but as repairers find themselves losing money, it becomes hard to see how it has helped in the long run. One business stated "repairs between 30 and 40 Apple products every week," and that "the average repair takes between an hour to an hour and a half. If it charges the rate Apple charges customers for repairs, then its maximum margin is about $60." With rent and labor, he adds, they are losing money.

It's unfortunate because the best iPhones in recent years have become more repairable than ever, receiving solid scores from the iFixit repairability watchdog. The right to repair is becoming more and more important, so maybe Apple will listen to those using its program, and continue to better serve its users.

As more and more phones and devices acquire better and better water resistance ratings, liquid damage is becoming less of an issue. That being said, water can still often find its way into places it shouldn't be, causing malfunctions or a complete stoppage in function.

If your iPhone, iPad, AirPods, or Mac has been met with moisture and now it's on the blink, try these fixes to hopefully save your device from an untimely demise.

Water-resistant vs. waterproof

Let's get this out of the way first, since these terms are often used interchangeably by manufacturers. There is no universal standard for "waterproofing" — that is to say that nothing can truly be considered waterproof, since no manufacturer can absolutely guarantee that. Therefore, everything that can withstand a bit of moisture is water-resistant.

Water-resistant products are given "Ingress Protection" or IP ratings, which help consumers determine their level of water resistance. The rating consists of two digits, the first from 1 to 7 and the second digit from 1 to 9. The first number is intrusion protection, which really refers to dust. The second is moisture protection.

So, in the case of Apple's newest phones, the iPhone 14 and iPhone 14 Pro, you'll notice they carry an IP68 rating. The "6" in the rating refers to it being dust-tight, while the "8" refers to the iPhone's ability to be able to handle immersion up to 1M (3 feet and 3 inches) in depth.

You may also notice that the AirPods Pro 2 and AirPods 3 have an IPX4 rating, which means those devices are protected against splashing water and have not been tested for dust protection. You shouldn't swim with your AirPods, but you can get sweaty without worrying about them breaking.  

'Swim-proof' vs. 'splash-proof'

Every Apple Watch senses the Series 2 has been classified as"swim-proof," which means they can handle submersion for quite a while and can handle the pressure of swimming strokes, which can force water into devices much faster than simple submersion can. 

While Apple does not mention water or liquid damage in its standard one-year Apple Watch warranty, it does guarantee your Apple Watch Series 2 or later when used under Apple's guidelines. This means shallow water activities, but not anything with "high-velocity water" or "submersion below shallow depth." So while the Apple Watch are guaranteed to be 50 meters deep under ISO standards, Apple isn't so keen on your doing that outside of controlled testing.

Water damage and your warranty

Since the iPhone with the first IP rating was released (the iPhone 7), you've probably seen a ton of people taking underwater photos, going swimming with the iPhone, and just plain playing fast and loose around water. While that's all fine and good, it's a bit foolhardy.

While your iPhone may seem "waterproof" at the beginning, water does take its toll over time. The nano-coating covering connectors and ports will degrade, and as water evaporates off of your iPhone, it'll dry out any plastic. And if you've ever dropped or scratched your iPhone, any little imperfection can expedite liquid's destruction.

Water damage isn't protected by Apple's warranty

Even though all iPhones now have a pretty good IP rating, Apple doesn't cover water damage under its regular warranty, so if your device does go kaput, you're hooped. Without AppleCare+, repairing water damage will cost you hundreds of dollars, so keep that in mind the next time you actively want to take your iPhone into the water with you. 

How to fix iPhone or iPad water damage

If your iPhone or iPad was fully submerged in water for any length of time, there is no guaranteed fix for water damage. There are a few things you can try, but don't get your hopes up. If your device has just been splashed, then chances are water hasn't gotten inside, but play it safe and follow these steps anyway.

Manually dry it

Before you go raiding the pantry for rice, take your device out of the liquid and dry it off as well as you can first:

1. Take your phone out of the water as quickly as possible (duh).
2. Turn it off. DO NOT TRY TO USE IT.
3. Take the case off if you have one.
4. Take the SIM card out.
5. Shake it, baby, shake it. Try to shake, blow, or suck out as much water as you can.
6. Wipe your phone down with the most absorbent cloth you can find, and make sure it's a dry one. 
7. If you're feeling adventurous (and you're OK with voiding your warranty/AppleCare), you can open your iPhone or iPad up to dry the inside better. You can find teardowns on iFixit.com.
8. Just let it dry. And wait. The longer you can wait to turn your iPhone or iPad back on, the better. If you can wait three days, do it.

Don't put it in rice, oatmeal, or cat litter

These methods simply don't work as well as leaving your device out on a shelf in a dry place. For one, zipping your device up in a bag with an absorbent material can create humidity, so the silica or oatmeal might absorb water from your iPhone, but the air inside the bag will still be moist.

How to fix AirPods water damage

Being such small devices, there really is no way to open up your AirPods to let water out. The best you can do is dry them with an absorbent cloth or towel, shake 'em as best you can to get as much water out as possible, and then let them dry for a couple days.

Test them and see. If only one's working, then you can grab a replacement. If they're both pooched, then you'll just have to replace them.

How to fix Mac water damage

How well you can repair your water-damaged Mac will depend on how savvy you are with taking it apart and how comfortable you feel fiddling with components. If you're not comfortable with any type of dismantling when it comes to your laptop, then follow the below steps to your comfort level:

1. Turn it off and unplug the power cable. This prevents the water inside from carrying potentially harmful electrical current to the various components.
2. Disconnect anything that's plugged into it: USB drives, mice, monitors, SD cards, etc.
3. Remove the battery if possible and if you feel comfortable doing so (some Mac models simply don't allow for this).
4. Lay your Mac upside down on a towel — this lets the water drip out the ports and keyboard.
5. Take note of what you spilled on it: water, juice, beer, sulfuric acid — whatever you had lying around the house. This is important. Less acidic liquids, like water, milk, or tea can do less damage than more acidic ones, like juices, wine, or other alcohol.
6. Get it to an Apple store or a repair shop as quick as you can. The longer you wait, the smaller its chances of survival. Avoid shaking your Mac, since, unlike an iPhone or iPad, this could just distribute the water further and end up doing more damage. Leave your Mac off until it's repaired. Turning it on means electrical current is moving, and water can help magnify that, leaving destruction in its wake (water puns!).

As with iPhones and iPads, don't bother with rice or any of that malarky. For one, it won't work as well as letting it air dry; for another, your Mac has larger ports, and you're just gonna fill them up with crap, and that'll just end up doing more harm than good.

Remember that time is of the essence here. The enzymes and other molecules that make up whatever liquid you've spilled can eat away at components, but it does take time, so the shorter time between the spill and repair, the better, and the more salvageable your Mac will be.

You don't necessarily have to take your Mac to a repair shop. If you have any savvy, then by all means open 'er up. Just remember that if you damage anything at all, and Apple can tell it's your fault, you'll void the warranty. So take the utmost care, especially with newer models, since you can bust the clips holding the back plate in place if you're not gentle enough.

Just play it safe

While plenty of Apple devices have water-resistance ratings, it's important to remember these are features Apple has included to protect your phone and other devices from accidents.

Just because your iPhone 14 Pro can be submerged and likely be fine, doesn't mean you should jump into your pool for a photoshoot.

As a general rule, just play it safe around water, and make sure you careful dry devices when they do get wet. 

What you need to know

• Repair outfit iFixit has confirmed that swapping an iPhone 13 display will likely break Face ID if done by third-party shops.
• Displays need to be married with a special chip, something that isn't an easy process unless you're part of Apple's repair program.

We've been hearing for weeks that switching an iPhone 13 display out isn't as easy as it should be and that it would likely break Face ID for a ton of people. Now, repair outfit iFixit has confirmed that's the case, writing a lengthy post that goes into the details of what's going down.

In its simplest state, the issue is that iPhone 13 displays are married to a small chip that handles authentication for the screen itself. If that isn't all up to code, by Apple's standards, Face ID will be disabled.

While this isn't an issue for Apple or those with access to its repair software, it's devastating for small repair shops or people who want to swap their own displays at home.

Repair shops who want to invest in the equipment needed to remove the soldered chip and re-attach it to the replacement display may be able to get things back up and running again, the report notes. But the hardware required to do that is an additional cost that some outfits might not be able to afford — and that's before the training required to do such work has been undertaken.

The whole situation means that getting an iPhone 13 display swapped out could be more difficult than any other iPhone, something that's particularly bad news for those with butterfingers. As ever, an iPhone with AppleCare+ is the best iPhone, but that seems to be the case right now more than ever.

You can read the iFixit report for the full lowdown.

What you need to know

• The Wall Street Journal's Joanna Stern went on a quest to repair two Macs.
• Stern found that repair options at independent repair shops could be more expensive or impossible.

Joanna Stern is highlighting the need for Right to Repair legislation.

In a new video and report from The Wall Street Journal, Joanna Stern found out what it was like to compare the cost of repairing a Mac between Apple and an independent repair shop in New York City. You can watch the video version of the report below:

While scouring NYC for repair options, the journalist found that some repair shops end up charging more than Apple because - according to the shop - it has to send the laptop to Apple for repair.

Stern also discovered some shops were unable to repair the MacBook Air because the parts and information to do so are not available.

The 'Right to Repair' battle continues to heat up with possible legislation in many countries, leading Apple to recently open up its repair program to more third-party providers and provide more documentation and genuine parts to shops.

An Apple spokesperson, in response to a request for comment on the report, said that the company still believes that repairs are best handled by "a trained technician using Apple-genuine parts."

There are quite a few variables to consider before replacing the battery on your iPhone, and it's not always the best move given the potential cost and complexity involved. Still, If you decide it's time for a new battery, you want to make sure you can get the right battery and that it can be replaced. Not only that, but there are some important things to do in order to make sure your battery lasts as long as possible, especially if you may not use a phone for a few weeks or more. We spoke with Chris Johncke of iFixYouri (also available on Twitter and Facebook) about what you need to look out for and he has provided some tips to get you up to speed on taking care of your battery.

How and when to replace your iPhone battery: Is your battery still good?

Lithium polymer batteries won't last forever, and after around 500 charge cycles, these batteries start to degrade. Degrading, in this case, doesn't mean it's becoming chemically unstable or dangerous — it just can't hold as much charge as when it was new. This isn't an iPhone-specific issue and will happen to any phone, tablet, or laptop with a rechargeable battery.

There are a couple of standout clues for a degraded battery. First, your battery life will take a nosedive, and second, you might start to get unexpected shutdowns. While the former is to be expected, the latter can be extremely frustrating. The problem is that your iPhone needs a certain amount of power to run all of its components and if the battery can't deliver that power, the phone can power off.

Luckily, in the last few versions of iOS, Apple has included a battery health monitor in the settings. Tap the settings icon and scroll down to Battery. On this page, you'll be able to get a good idea of what's using your battery and when. If you see an app using more than expected, that app may be your problem rather than a degraded battery.

Tap on Battery Health. If your percentage is higher than 80%, your battery is probably fine. This can also show you if you have any unexpected shutdowns in the past which can be indicators of a battery that's failing to deliver enough power to the hardware.

How and when to replace your iPhone battery: What causes a battery to fail?

Over time, a battery can lose its original capacity simply from repeated use, but some other factors can cause degradation to progress much more quickly. One major indicator of failure is a swollen battery.

Another consideration is temperature, According to Chris Johncke, batteries should be stored in a normal climate between 65 and 76 degrees Fahrenheit. Leaving your phone in the car on a hot summer day or in the freezing cold can cause the chemical within the battery to fail.

If you plan on storing your device for an extended period of time, the battery should not be kept fully charged or flat. It's best to keep approximately 60% charge on the device.

How and when to replace your iPhone battery: How do you get your battery replaced?

Before you open your phone make sure you know what you're getting into and have a plan in case something goes wrong. I've seen repair techs with hundreds of repairs under their belts puncture a battery and fill a room with smoke. Make sure you have a plan of action for a potential fire and do not work on an expanded battery without extensive experience.

One of the nice things about using one of the most popular phones in the world is having a wealth of replacement parts and repair techs available. It's important to make sure you're getting quality service and a quality part, or else you could end up with many more problems down the line.

If you've got AppleCare coverage, your best bet is to find an Apple Authorized Service Provider, since your repair may be free or cheaper thanks to your coverage. If your phone is out of coverage, you can still get a professional battery replacement with access to the proper parts.

This is your best bet for making sure the job is done right and many places offer mail-in service so you don't have to worry if you prefer to stay at home as much as possible.

It is possible to replace your own battery, though it's not as simple as you might think. Not only do you need to have the proper tools to disassemble and work on your iPhone, but you'll also need to make sure you get a good battery. It's also worth keeping in mind that it can be easy to damage components inside your iPhone, such as the ribbon cables connecting your display, front camera, and earpiece, as well as the battery connector itself.

According to Chris Johncke at iFixYouri, a replacement battery should meet certain guidelines to ensure it will perform on the same level your OEM model did. OEM stands for original equipment manufacturer and in this case, it refers to the exact same model Apple used. If you're getting into electronics repair, you'll see this phrase quite a bit.

Chris Johncke of iFixYouri recommends looking for the following features in a replacement battery.

• True Zero Cycle Count – Your replacement battery should never have been used before. While there are vendors who sell batteries that have been used, and they had their battery cycle count reset, a quality parts supplier will make sure that their batteries are in-fact, true zero cycle batteries.
• Replacement batteries should carry the same voltage and milliamp-hours as the original battery and should be indicated on the battery's packaging.
• OEM Spec Adhesive Provided – Your replacement battery should come with proper adhesive to secure the battery inside your phone.
• Capacity Tested – All batteries should have a charge and capacity test performed to ensure that they are built to the correct specification.
• Integrated Chip – Having an OEM Texas Instruments(TI) Integrated Chip will ensure that your battery health levels are accurate and real-time.
• Temperature Control – Batteries should be stored at normal temperatures to ensure that their integrity has not been compromised. Most suppliers comply with this, but a simple ask or check never hurts.
• Certifications – There are many certifications that OEM batteries have to test to. Underwriter Laboratories(UL), is the largest and most common. UL makes sure that the batteries comply and have been built with certain standards. Unfortunately for aftermarket parts, UL does not apply. Other certifications verify batteries for safety. One of which is UN/DOT 38.3. This has been adopted by many regulators and helps ensure that batteries meet electrical, performance, reliability, and safety compliance. The certification also helps to make sure that the batteries are fit for transportation through a series of tests, such as shock/vibration test, short circuit test, and a variety of others that steer towards making sure the battery has a quality build.

How and when to replace your iPhone battery: Is it time for a new phone?

If your iPhone is working fine, why replace it? Apple is always working to add new features and improve the design of its phones with each yearly release, but for most of us, there's really no need to get one every year. Even if you've decided it's time for a new phone, your old phone can find new life as a second-hand phone for someone else or even just as a portable music player. I swear Apple used to make something like that.

Equipping your old phone with a new battery can give it a new lease on life and make it last for a couple more years for either its new user or as your personal media device.

Whether you're new to Apple or even if you're a veteran Mac and iOS user, it's a fact of technology: problems happen. But don't panic — there are several ways to troubleshoot your issues with ease. You can look up information right on your best iPhone, iPad, or Mac; search iMore's how-to guides, or contact Apple for more help. Plus, the Apple community is one of the most helpful technology communities around — all you have to do is ask!

How to use the Apple Support app

If you have a functioning iPhone or iPad, you can get on-demand help right from that device with Apple's Support app. Once downloaded, log in with your Apple ID, and you'll be presented with a support portal for every device currently registered to your Apple ID, along with a few all-purpose featured articles. The app is currently available in 32 languages and 174 regions.

Tap on any one of your devices to open its support portal; from there, you can either search for a specific issue or browse general troubleshooting topics to find an answer to your problem. If one of Apple's knowledge base articles doesn't solve it, you also have the option of talking to an Apple Support rep on the phone or via text chat. For hardware problems, you can also schedule a Genius Bar appointment or an appointment at an Apple Authorized Service provider near you.

How to use the Help app on your Mac

Your Mac comes with a handy Help app that answers questions about every aspect of your computer. All you have to do is type in your query, and the Help program will present you with helpful information.

1. Click on Help in the Menu bar at the top of your Mac's screen.
2. Type in a query, like "downloading apps" or "new user."
   • If you have Finder selected (click on your desktop screen), you can check out What's new in macOS, New to Mac, and Get to Know your Mac for more help.

3. Select the search result from the list.
4. Click on a related link to open a specific app or program relating to your issue.

Some useful things you should know about the Help program:

• Use the keyboard shortcut command-shift-/to access the Help program quickly.
• Help will show search results based on the app you are using. For example, if you are using Safari, it will show results for help with Safari. If you have Finder selected, it will show results for Finder.
• When searching for help using a command for a program, you can hover over menu results, and an arrow will appear next to where you will find it in the app's menu.

How to use the iMore forums for help

If your Mac or iPhone can't help you find a solution to your problem, try the iMore community! Not only does our staff love troubleshooting problems, but our fantastic readers are always on-hand to help with even the simplest of problems. Feel free to ask anything in the iMore Forums: Our forum users understand that when you are new to Mac, you might need extra help.

How to join the discussion on iMore

How to chat with Apple support online or on the phone

If searching on your Mac or iOS device doesn't help, and if the iMore forums can't solve your problem, you can go directly to the source: Apple support.

If you're just looking for some basic how-to solutions, you can get help in 140 characters or less via Twitter using @AppleSupport. The company tweets out plenty of helpful advice about new features on iOS, macOS, watchOS, and tvOS.

If Twitter doesn't help, you can talk directly with an Apple support technician online or on the phone. If you start out in a chat but discover your problem is more complicated, you can always ask to speak with a support technician on the phone.

1. Visit Apple's support page or the Apple Support app.
2. Select the device you want to fix.
3. Select a category that your issue falls under. 

4. Select a topic.
5. Select Chat, Talk to Apple Support Now, Schedule a Call, or Call Apple Support Later to contact Apple support.
   • Apple will contact you through the channel that you specified (unless you selected Call Apple Support Later, in which case, you would need to contact Apple).

How to set up a Genius appointment at an Apple Store

Sometimes, reading and chatting online isn't enough: If you have a hardware problem or tricky software issue, you may have to bring your Mac, iPhone, iPad, or Apple Watch to an Apple Store for diagnostics and possible repairs. If there is an Apple Store near you, it's easy to schedule an appointment at the Genius Bar. If you don't have an Apple Store in your area or would prefer not to go in person, you may also have an option to send your device in for repair.

1. Visit Apple Support or the Apple Support app.
2. Select the device you want to fix.
3. Select a category that your issue falls under

4. Select a Learn about (device) Service.
5. Click on Start a service request.

6. Choose a topic.
7. Select your issue.

8. Choose How you would like to get help.
9. Enter your Apple ID and password.
10. Select a location.

11. Select an Apple Store near you.
12. Pick a date and time.

With these tips, you should be able to get any and all Apple questions answers and repairs done. If you are looking for more help, or want to chat, or would like to help others, we'll see you in the iMore Forums!

What you need to know

• Apple is offering its Authorized Service Providers subsidies for drop-off and pickup services.
• The company will pay up to $25 per device repaired.
• Apple is encouraging its repair partners to practice social distancing.

A couple of weeks ago, Apple announced that it would be paying its Authorized Service Providers the max payouts for the repairs it performed in order to provide additional help to its partners during the coronavirus pandemic. Now, it sounds like the company will be offering additional compensation to its repair partners that implement social distancing measures.

A new report by MacRumors details that Apple will be providing subsidies for its Authorized Service Providers in the United States and Canada that offer drop-off and pickup services.

An internal memo obtained by MacRumors details that Apple will be paying $20 for each iPhone, iPad, Apple Watch, or Beats repair and $25 for each Mac repair that is completed on a pickup and drop-off basis. The company says that it "encourages such arrangements when possible."

According to the memo, Apple has given its partners instructions for how to apply for the additional compensation that the subsidies will be offered by the company indefinitely.

With all of its retail stores closed outside of Greater China, Authorized Service Providers are currently the only way to get your Apple device repaired locally in a way that Apple will acknowledge. If you need service on one of your Apple products, you can find a repair partner near you on the Apple Support website.

What you need to know

• Apple has launched onsite repairs in six US cities.
• If you can't visit an Apple Store, an Authorized Service Provider will repair your device at your home or office.
• It's currently available in San Francisco, LA, NYC, Chicago, Houston, and Dallas.

Apple is now offering onsite device repairs to customers in six US cities.

As reported by MacRumors, the service is now available in San Francisco, LA, NYC, Chicago, Houston, and Dallas.

Alongside the standard repair options, booking an appointment or sending your device away for repair, customers can now book to have an Apple Authorized Service Provider repair their device at their home or office.

The service will incur an additional fee on top of the provider's standard repair cost, and when you click the 'Book through this provider' link, it takes you to the site of the party offering services. Go Tech Services seems to be the top provider in each of the cities where the new service is available.

Until now Apple had only offered onsite services for its enterprise customers, and whilst the new feature is provided by an ASP and not Apple itself, this will still be a welcome improvement to those who cannot easily access either an Apple Store or an ASP, or simply don't have the time to travel for such appointments.

If you visit Go Tech Services' website directly, you get the following message:

This seems to suggest that the Go Tech Services operates exclusively through Apple, as you cannot book a repair with them without first being sent from Apple's website.

As mentioned this is only available in six select cities, there is no indication at this time as to whether Apple plans to roll out this service anywhere else.

To book an onsite repair, simply head to Apple's support page.

The Apple Pencil lets you digitally draw, write, and illustrate anything your heart desires on your iPad and iPad Pro.

But though the Pencil needs no regular sharpening like its namesake, its plastic nib can wear down and get damaged over time. Having recently replaced a Pencil nib, I wanted to quickly run through the decision and replacement process for everyone else curious about the life cycle of their stylus.

Note: These steps are valid for both the first-generation Apple Pencil and the Apple Pencil 2.

When should you replace an Apple Pencil nib?

The Apple Pencil's nib is made of a hard capacitative plastic that sends signals to your iPad's screen based where you're drawing — and how hard you're pressing, too.

Hard plastic though it may be, it's not the same kind as the Pencil's exterior body — the tip has a slightly more flexible plastic that can wear away, chip, or otherwise get damaged over time.

As you sketch or write on your iPad, pressing against your screen will slowly wear down and widen the Pencil tip. This process isn't quick, however: I've owned (and pretty regularly used) Apple's stylus since 2015, and I've only replaced two nibs in its lifetime.

This process won't dramatically alter your Pencil experience on the iPad, either: The tip gets a little rougher and larger, but you'll still have full functionality.

If you're debating whether to replace your Apple Pencil nib, the biggest reasons to do so are feel, finish, and functionality.

As your nib wears down, it might feel a bit rougher when drawing on your iPad. Don't worry, unless there's actual finish damage (more on this in a moment), this roughness won't hurt your screen; that said, it may change the way you draw on the iPad and you might not like it as much.

(Alternatively, for those who feel the Pencil is too slippery, wearing down the nib might actually make it feel better when drawing on your screen.)

When a nib is really worn (or it's been damaged due to a drop or excessive wear), you'll be able to feel it by running a finger over the tip of your Apple Pencil. If the nib feels overly rough or sandpaper-like in any way, you've worn down the plastic and might want to start thinking about a replacement.

Though I've never worn a nib down to the extent where using it damaged my tablet, I'd still advise against using a Pencil with a physically rough nib on your iPad's screen.

In rare cases, you might damage the Pencil nib to the extent where it no longer functions as a capacitative stylus, effectively "breaking" the tool. While I've never had this happen to me, I've heard of a few (very rare) cases where a direct drop on concrete flattened the nib enough that it no longer registered when drawing.

If your Pencil shows up as connected to your iPad but you can't make drawing work, consider replacing the nib before getting into more complex troubleshooting scenarios.

Where can you get replacement Apple Pencil tips?

First and foremost: Your Apple Pencil comes with one free nib replacement in its original box and packaging. If you haven't thrown it away, you can find the spare nib inside the paper sleeve (along with a Lightning adapter that allows you to plug your Pencil into a standard Lightning cord).

If you've thrown it away or otherwise can't find your spare nib, you can pick up a set of replacement tips from the Apple Store.

How do I replace my Apple Pencil tip?

This part is easy:

1. Unscrew the nib in a counter-clockwise direction until it comes off the Pencil.

2. Install the new nib by screwing the new tip on your Pencil until it feels secure.

When should I replace my Apple Pencil outright?

Thanks to nib replacement, you should get many more years out of your Apple Pencil than a traditional ink pen or pencil. In an ideal world, you shouldn't have to replace your Pencil; that said, if the Pencil's internals begin pulling away, you might want to consider putting it out to pasture. (Or, at the very least, contacting AppleCare.)

Other questions?

Let us know in the comments.

Update March 2019: Updated for Apple Pencil 2. Serenity Caldwell contributed to a previous version of this article.

According to French website iGen, as first reported by MacRumors, Apple's new policy regarding fixing iPhones is that, if it has an after-market battery in it, they will still work on it.

Previously, Apple technical support was told that, if an iPhone had a third-party battery, they were to deny the repair service, even if the repair had nothing to do with the battery.

MacRumors corroborates iGen's discovery with internal Apple documents.

Additionally, the repair technician can, at their own discretion, replace a battery if "tabs are broken or missing, or there is excessive adhesive" for the cost of the battery replacement, instead of the entire iPhone, as was previous policy procedures.

If you listen regularly to the iMore Show you may have heard me discussing how I feel about a consumer's right to repair. In fact, in one particular episode, Georgia Dow, Rene Ritchie, and I have a lively discussion about it.

I can understand how important it is for companies like Apple and Samsung to maintain high standards in their hardware, and once you plop some third-party bits into it, there is no longer a guarantee of high quality. But as the purchaser of this hardware, I feel I have the right to lower the quality of the device at my own discretion. If, for example, I replace a cracked screen at a third-party screen repair shop, and then need to have the Lightning port of my iPhone worked on by Apple, my repair service should not be denied just because my screen wasn't repaired by them.

We're not leasing our iPhones (unless you're in the iPhone Upgrade Program, of course). I am of the opinion that, if you own your phone outright, you should have the right to take it into any shop you choose for repairs without it negatively affecting your ability to continue to receive support from official technicians.

It wouldn't be entirely unlike being turned away by your dealer for a tune-up because you took your car to a Goodyear tire shop to fix a flat.

As important as consumer protection is, it's also just as important for manufacturers of these devices to be protected from fault if a third-party repair shop does something to compromise the hardware.

If, for example, you took your phone to a third-party repair shop to fix a Touch ID issue, and then your Home button stops working altogether, Apple shouldn't be at fault for replacing your phone.

I believe, however, that there is a way that consumers and companies can come to a collective agreement on the best way to allow us to make our own choices as to whom we want to repair our devices, while protecting companies from having to perform extraneous repairs due to a botched service at a third-party shop. Open discussion and a willingness to work together is key to finding a healthy compromise.

In a statement to MacRumors, iFixit director of communications Kay-Kay Clapp said:

Apple allowing its repair technicians to work on iPhones with aftermarket batteries is a huge step toward giving consumers more autonomy over devices they own outright. It's a great experiment in whether this could work. Apple, as usual, sets an example that other companies might (and hopefully will) follow with their own repair programs.

How do you feel about a consumer's right to repair their own devices? Do you think companies should continue their current repair service policies or open up to allowing more flexibility with third-party repairs?

Learn more about the right to repair from the Repair Association or check out iFixit's grassroots innitiative.

Share your thoughts with me in the comments.

Your six-year-old MacBook Air or iPhone 4s is about to be added to Apple's new vintage repair program, according to 9to5Mac. The new program promises to extend the period of time customers can receive repairs for older devices.

The new program, called "Repair Vintage Apple Products Pilot" will refresh the list of devices Apple or an authorized service provider will repair to include devices that were previously considered "vintage" or "obsolete" according to Apple's guidelines.

9to5Mac, quoting unnamed sources, says the current list of products that will fall under the vintage repair program include the iPhone 5, mid-2012 MacBook Air, and mid-2011 iMac. Additional devices added to the list later this year include the iPhone 4s and mid-2012 MacBook Pro, followed by additional MacBook Pro models dating into early 2013, as well as, the Mac Pro from mid-2012.

If you've got an out-dated iPhone lying around broken and you've wanted to get it back up and running, you may have that opportunity very soon.

May 23, 2018: Apple offering $50 credit for out-of-warranty iPhone battery replacements

If you had your iPhone battery replaced prior to Apple's discount program, Apple is now offering a $50 credit towards out-of-warranty replacement for iPhone 6 or later. The replacement had to have been done between January 1, 2017 and December 28, 2017, and completed at an Apple Store, Apple Repair Center, or an Apple Authorized Service Provider.

From Apple:

So, if this applies to you, sit tight and wait for your email.

May 9, 2018: iPhone replacement batteries no longer subject to delays

According to an internal Apple memo obtained by MacRumors, Apple's batteries for its iPhone battery replacement program are now available without delay. Batteries should arrive more quickly at both Apple Stores and Authorized service providers.

January 11, 2018: iPhone 6 Plus batteries may be delayed until March

According to an intercepted internal document obtained by MacRumors, certain iPhone models may have significant delays on battery replacements:

While this may be frustrating to iPhone 6 Plus users, it's not surprising: Apple mentioned at the start that supply would be limited, as the company attempts to ship as many replacement batteries as it can to Apple Stores and authorized repair shops alike. To get in queue for a replacement, follow our replacement guide below.

Why would I need to replace my battery at all?

Lithium-ion batteries aren't infinitely powerful: Like everything on this planet, they age, and as they do so they become less effective. From Apple's battery and performance document:

In other words: As your battery gets older, it may run into issues running high-powered apps and tasks and might shut down. In order to prevent unexpected shutdowns in these older batteries, Apple deliberately meters processor power, which may make your iPhone run more slowly.

If you want to avoid that slowdown and return to full health, you want to replace your battery. (Think of it like getting a hip or knee replacement as you age.)

What iPhone models did Apple slow down?

It's less to do with iPhone models and more to do with battery capacity: If your iPhone is running iOS 10.2.1 (iPhone 6, SE, or 6s) or iOS 11.2 or later (iPhone 7 and 7 Plus) and its battery health is low enough to potentially trigger unexpected shutdowns, iOS throttles the CPU and GPU to keep it from triggering a restart. From Apple's support document:

This power management works by looking at a combination of the device temperature, battery state of charge, and the battery's impedance. Only if these variables require it, iOS will dynamically manage the maximum performance of some system components, such as the CPU and GPU in order to prevent unexpected shutdowns. As a result, the device workloads will self-balance, allowing a smoother distribution of system tasks, rather than larger, quick spikes of performance all at once. In some cases, a user may not notice any differences in daily device performance. The level of perceived change depends on how much power management is required for a particular device.

In cases that require more extreme forms of this power management, the user may notice effects such as:

• Longer app launch times
• Lower frame rates while scrolling
• Backlight dimming (which can be overridden in Control Center)
• Lower speaker volume by up to -3dB
• Gradual frame rate reductions in some apps -During the most extreme cases, the camera flash will be disabled as visible in the camera UI
• Apps refreshing in background may require reloading upon launch

Many key areas are not impacted by this power management feature. Some of these include:

• Cellular call quality and networking throughput performance
• Captured photo and video quality
• GPS performance
• Location accuracy
• Sensors like gyroscope, accelerometer, barometer
• Apple Pay

If your iPhone has a still-functional battery — even if it's an iPhone 6 — you shouldn't be affected by iOS throttling. If you're concerned, you can check by comparing your iPhone's speed benchmarks against other iPhone models using the Geekbench app. You can also run coconutBattery on your Mac to see your iPhone battery's age and wear/tear.

Are there non-battery reasons my iPhone might be slow?

Absolutely — and they don't have to do with Apple throttling your CPU or GPU. You might have a memory-bloated app, your phone may not have been restarted recently, you may need newer software... there are a number of reasons your iPhone might be not working at peak performance. Check out our troubleshooting article below for potential causes and how to fix them:

How to fix a slow or frozen iPhone or iPad

How will I know if I need to replace my battery?

You can check your battery's general health at any time by going to Settings > Battery on your iPhone. If your battery is running into issues, you'll see an alert at the top of the screen to consider a replacement.

Additionally, you can run coconutBattery on your Mac to see your iPhone battery's age and wear/tear.

Finally, you can always ask your local Apple Store or authorized repair shop to run a diagnostic on your iPhone battery if you're worried it's no longer suitable.

What iPhone models are eligible for this program?

All iPhones 6 or later will be eligible for a battery replacement. That includes:

• iPhone 6
• iPhone SE
• iPhone 6s
• iPhone 7
• iPhone 7 Plus

What about iPad models?

iPad models aren't getting the battery replacement program — nor does iOS need to throttle their CPU and GPU — because their batteries are much bigger. They're not currently part of Apple's power management program, either. From Rene's article on the subject:

No, your iPad isn't affected by #iPhoneSlow. Here's why!

Can I replace the battery even if it doesn't say I need to replace it?

When you make an appointment at the Apple Store, Genius Bar employees will run a diagnostic on your iPhone to see if the battery is below its operational threshold; that said, we've seen multiple reports and received independent confirmation that if the part is in stock, the Genius will replace it for you even if your existing battery is still powerful enough to avoid Apple's power management program.

I have other damage to my iPhone; is my battery still eligible?

It should be: Apple's replacing the battery, not the phone itself. Even if you have a cracked screen or dented case, you won't need to pay to replace those to get your battery fixed. (But if you have a cracked screen, you probably should fix that.)

Will Apple force me to upgrade my software when I get a battery replacement? I don't like iOS 11!

First note: If you're on iOS 10.1 or earlier, you shouldn't be seeing any software throttling — those changes were introduced in iOS 10.2.1 or later for iPhone 6, SE, and 6s users — but you might be prey to unexpected shutdowns. In this case, we do recommend upgrading to iOS 10.2.1 or later.

For all others on pre-iOS 11 software, Apple hasn't required users update software in the past during battery replacements, though if it's something important to you, you should make that known to your Apple Store or repair shop contact when bringing it in for a battery replacement.

How much will a battery replacement cost?

Normally, the program is free to iPhone models under warranty and $79 to out-of-warranty customers; this program will allow out-of-warranty customers to replace the battery for just $29.

What will Apple's battery replacement program cost outside the U.S.?

Canadian out-of-warranty iPhone battery replacements have dropped by $64 — from $99 to $35 — for anyone with an iPhone 6 or later whose battery needs to be replaced.

In the U.K., the price has dropped by £54, to £25.

How do I make an appointment to replace my battery?

1. Visit the Apple Support page.
2. Choose iPhone.
3. Select Battery, Power & Charging.

4. Choose Battery Replacement.
5. If you live near an Apple Store, click Bring in for Repair; if not, choose Send in for Repair.
6. Enter your information to make an appointment.

How long will it take for Apple to replace my battery?

If your battery is in stock, the procedure should take around an hour; if not, you'll be asked to return for a follow-up repair when the part is in stock. (You can always choose to send your iPhone via mail for repair, but that process takes a bit longer — close to a week — and means living without your phone.)

I don't want to wait — can someone else besides Apple replace my battery?

Absolutely. Folks like iFixYouri can replace your battery for $70; alternatively, you can buy kits from sites like iFixit for the same price as an Apple Store repair, though that requires some technical know-how and DIY willingness on your part.

Will the battery replacement mess up my iPhone's water resistance?

It shouldn't when done through an Apple Store or authorized repair shop.

When will the program end?

Currently, Apple says it will continue the program worldwide until December 2018.

Why doesn't Apple just give us free batteries for life?

It's a nice thought, but unfortunately, all electronics are in this boat: AA batteries don't last; lithium-ion camera batteries don't last; and smartphone batteries don't last. Apple's batteries aren't running down any faster than other companies — their effect on your software speed might just be more noticeable.

I don't want a battery replacement — I bought a new iPhone because my old one was slow, and now I want a refund/reimbursement instead!

This isn't officially part of Apple's battery program, but you might have luck contacting AppleCare and inquiring there.

Any other questions?

Let us know below.

Updated January 11, 2018: Updated with information on battery delays.

Recently, we've seen reports of iPhone 8 and 8 Plus owners who've upgraded to iOS 11.3, only to find their display stuck on the Home screen, unable to interact or navigate further. Why? These users previously either performed a DIY repair or had a third-party repair company (non-Apple Store or authorized retailers) perform a screen repair; unfortunately, certain non-genuine third-party screen components were made incompatible with the iPhone as of 11.3.

If you've run into this problem, don't panic: There's an update out (iOS 11.3.1) that should restore compatibility. Additionally, most repair shops have since updated their screen component sourcing with displays that are compatible with iOS 11.3, and any reputable shop (including us at iFixYouri) should provide a free display swap under the original repair warranty. Here's what you need to know.

Why did the screens stop working in the first place?

While Apple no longer voids iPhone warranties when you attempt a DIY screen repair or get a screen repair done by a third-party shop, the company also doesn't go out of its way to supply the same top-tier parts that go to its authorized repair shops and Apple Stores. As such, third-party shops rely on parts that have been independently verified to work with various iPhone models.

Note: Apple only maintains your iPhone warranty if you've repaired the screen and screen only — replacing other parts by yourself or at an unauthorized repair shop can still void it.

When Apple updates its software, however, there's a small chance that previously-functional parts can stop being recognized by the operating system as legitimate; like a bad blood transfusion or organ replacement, iOS ceases working with that part.

This isn't the first time we've seen issues with non-functional third-party replacement parts: In 2016, Apple faced a class-action lawsuit when iOS 9.2.1 disabled Touch ID on iPhones repaired by third-party companies. The court ended up dismissing the lawsuit, and Apple released an update to iOS 9 that restored the functionality of those iPhone models (and reimbursed any customers who had paid an out-of-warranty fee to get the part fixed).

One note: While we saw reports early on that the iPhone 6 Plus's "touch disease" — wherein the touch response of the iPhone 6 Plus screen became unresponsive or unpredictable, and was often accompanied by a white bar across the top of the display — was also caused by bad parts in third-party shops, this isn't true: The issue stemmed from an Apple hardware design flaw.

Could this be an intentional plan by Apple to thwart third-party repair companies, and force users to pay higher prices at authorized repair centers or Apple Stores? While that makes for a nice narrative, the more likely answer is that of security: Apple is (rightfully) concerned about potential hardware exploits, and in closing certain doors to potential hackers, repair companies can get accidentally shut out, too. Additionally, Apple recently issued a patch in iOS 11.3.1 that should fix non-communicative displays.

Third-party shops can use replacement parts of varying quality: When choosing a repair shop, always look for companies that source high-quality replacement parts and provide warranties on their replacement screens. There are a few different types of replacement screens available to consumers:

• Brand New Original: These are the screens Apple installs on brand-new out-of-the-box iPhone models. These parts are only available to Apple Stores and authorized Apple repair shops.
• Refurbished: A broken iPhone screen with a functional LCD display can be recycled into a refurbished display — these are Brand New Original parts which have been fitted with replacement glass. This type of screen is the highest-possible quality replacement you can get from a third-party shop or retailer.
• Third-Party Assembled: While you'll receive the same LCD screen as a Brand New Original model, other display components are not authentic. These screens are fairly high-quality, but you can occasionally spot differences in brightness or color since the display's backlight isn't an original part. These are common in some third-party repair shops and often come with a discounted price.
• Third-Party Manufactured: All the display's components (LCD screen, flex cable, backlight, and front glass) are inauthentic parts. These are the cheapest, lowest quality options available when considering a repair.

What can I do if my iPhone display stopped working after iOS 11.3?

If you've run into this issue or you're worried about getting a future screen repair, the good news is you have two options: You can update your software to iOS 11.3.1 to restore functionality, or reach out to a reputable third-party repair shops (who should have updated their component sourcing to use iOS 11.3-compatible replacement screens).

How to update your iPhone to iOS 11.3.1

Those whose iPhone has stopped working should reach out to the third-party repair shop (or, if you DIYed your repair, your parts supplier); any reputable shop should provide you a replacement repair or part free of charge to update your iPhone to a compatible display.

Christopher Johncke, our CEO at iFixYouri, adds:

There's also a chance that Apple may release a software update in the coming weeks to fix this component issue: We've reached out to Apple for comment, but haven't heard anything back as of publication.

In the meantime, if you're considering a screen replacement and don't want to stress about components becoming inoperable, iMore's repair partner iFixYouri offers a high-quality, iOS 11.3-compatible independent screen repair: This includes a one-year warranty on the screen that covers all but accidental damage.

Other questions about third-party parts?

Let us know below.

If you've got an iPhone that's getting on in years, your battery isn't going to hold a charge like it once did. Apple is currently offering a $29 battery replacement program for aging batteries found in the iPhone 6s, SE, or 7, but many of its stores are backlogged on repair requests; you may have to wait up to two months to get your phone's battery replaced.

Luckily, undergoing an iPhone battery replacement is one of the easiest iPhone repairs you can do for most older models. As long as you've got a little bit of patience, we can help you bring new life to your old iPhone!

• Don't need a battery replacement just yet? Maximize your iPhone battery life with these tips!

PSA: Use the right batteries when attempting a replacement repair: When replacing a battery in your iPhone, or any electronic device for that matter, it's very important you use high quality or OEM batteries. While using aftermarket components may not be unsafe in some circumstances, a battery is a huge exception. We recommend only using reputable suppliers for battery replacements, like iMore's partner iFixYouri.

• How to replace the iPhone 6s battery
• How to replace the iPhone 6 battery
• How to replace the iPhone 5s battery
• How to replace the iPhone 5c battery
• How to replace the iPhone 5 battery
• How to replace the iPhone 4S battery
• How to replace the iPhone 4 battery
• How to replace the iPhone 3GS battery

How to replace the iPhone 6s battery

No lithium-ion battery lasts forever: As your iPhone ages, declines in battery life can cause unexpected shutdowns or render your device too slow to function. While Apple now has a number of ways you can address this problem including a new Battery Health section in Settings, if your battery has dropped below peak capacity, it's worth considering a replacement.

How to replace the iPhone 6s battery

How to replace the iPhone 6 battery

Running into #iPhoneSlow? While you can now control how Apple throttles your aging battery, including the new Battery Health section in Settings, it might be time to consider a replacement if your iPhone's no longer charging and working like it used to.

How to replace the iPhone 6 battery

How to replace the iPhone 5s battery

Having battery woes with your iPhone 5s? Never fear: A battery replacement isn't that hard and won't cost you all that much. First, make sure the battery is the problem: If you've already tried a restore and still seem to have poor battery life or are experiencing other symptoms of a bad battery such as overheating, random shutdowns, or a battery icon that just won't charge, we can help walk you through a replacement step by step!

How to replace the iPhone 5s battery

How to replace the iPhone 5c battery

While the iPhone 5c is pretty much an iPhone 5 in a plastic shell, its battery replacement differs slightly, largely due to the change in the adhesive between the two. Instead of having a pull tab or just being able to pry, you'll need to remove and replace the battery adhesive as well as the battery. As far as symptoms, a bad battery in an iPhone 5c can produce overheating issues, sporadic shutdowns, and dismal battery life. Regardless what issue you're experiencing, we can walk you through from start to finish!

How to replace the iPhone 5c battery

How to replace the iPhone 5 battery

The iPhone 5 features a larger battery than iPhones before it, but the repair process is just as simple. If you've walked through our troubleshooting steps and you're still seeing issues with your iPhone, we can walk you through each and every step of replacing your battery.

How to replace the iPhone 5 battery

How to replace the iPhone 4S battery

Apple's iPhone 4S is getting on in years, with most launch batteries likely nearing their expiration date. If you notice your battery deteriorating or no longer holding the charge it once did, a battery replacement for the iPhone 4S consists of 4 screws, one clip, a few tools, and about 15 minutes of your time. Hit the link below to check out our quick guide to replacing the battery in your iPhone 4S.

How to replace the iPhone 4S battery

How to replace the iPhone 4 battery

While the GSM and CDMA version of the iPhone 4 are different in many repair aspects, they're actually almost the same when it comes to a battery replacement. Luckily, both battery swaps are very easy to perform. If you're up to the task, hit the guide below and we'll walk you through every step of the way.

How to replace the iPhone 4 battery

How to replace the iPhone 3G or 3GS battery

The iPhone 3G and iPhone 3GS may be well past "new," but they're far from junk: If you still rely on an older iPhone as a standby device, iPod replacement, or children's device, a battery replacement can bring new life to an otherwise aging device. If you're willing to take the time, it's a super cheap repair to perform. Here's how to go about it!

How to replace the iPhone 3G or 3GS battery

More DIY guides and help

Still need help or didn't find what you were looking for? Be sure to check out our other DIY guides and our iMore forums for help and answers to commonly asked DIY questions, or reach out to our partners in all things DIY, iFixYouri.

Your Apple Watch is an incredibly resilient piece of technology. It has to be! Not only will folks take their Apple Watches for the occasional swim or dip in the dish-filled sink, it spends quite a bit of its time pressed against your oil-laden, sweat-covered skin. Over time, you'll find that your Apple Watch gets coated in all kinds of grub and grime but it doesn't have to stay that way! With a bit of elbow grease and just a few moments of your time, you can have a sparkling clean Apple Watch again!

• How to clean your Apple Watch
• How to clean your Apple Watch's Digital Crown
• How to clean your Apple Watch bands

How to clean your Apple Watch

Before we begin, I want to point out that Apple says you should avoid using soap, cleaning products, abrasive materials, compressed air, and heating devices (like a hair dryer) when you clean your Apple Watch. That said, I've used mild cleaning products and soap to clean a number of Apple devices without issue. I would suggest avoiding abrasive materials and heating devices at all costs. Apple explains why:

Unless you've got a seriously grimy Apple Watch, all you're going to need is a microfiber cloth and some water.

Do not clean your Apple Watch while it's connected to the charger. Fresh, purified water — especially distilled water — is your best choice for cleaning your Apple Watch. Purified waters contain less chemical compounds (other than H₂O) so they're far less likely to interfere with the electrical components of your Apple Watch.

1. Turn off your Apple Watch.
2. Dampen your (nonabrasive) microfiber cloth with some water and wipe clean your Apple Watch.
3. Dry your Apple Watch with a microfiber cloth.

How to clean your Apple Watch's Digital Crown

If you've ever gone to spin the Digital Crown on your Apple Watch only to find it resisting movement or sticking, this is how you remedy the situation!

1. Turn off your Apple Watch.
2. Turn on your faucet and adjust the temperature until the water is warm.
3. Hold the Digital Crown under the stream of water for about 10 to 15 seconds. If you've got a leather band on your Apple Watch, remove it before sticking your Watch in the water. Nylon, metal, and fluoroelastomer bands are fine.
4. While it's under the stream of water, turn and press the Digital Crown. As long as water is running between the space in between your Apple Watch's housing and the Digital Crown, you should be able to dislodge any debris with this technique.
5. Dry your Apple Watch with a microfiber cloth.

If you've got a stainless steel Apple Watch and need to do some deep cleaning, check out this piece from my colleague Daniel Bader:

How to clean, buff, and remove scratches from your stainless steel Apple Watch

How to clean your Apple Watch bands

Just like the Apple Watch itself, your Apple Watch bands are likely to get grimy over time — especially if they're porous. You can give your bands a nice, thorough cleaning with these techniques!

In the interest of limiting wear and tear or accidental damage, Apple is pretty conservative in its suggestions for cleaning your Apple Watch bands. Here's what the company recommends:

In my experience, a lightly dampened cloth was not enough to clean away the dirt, lint, and grime that collected on my most worn band (a black woven nylon band that, sadly, Apple doesn't offer anymore). With the knowledge that it runs counter to Apple's official recommendations for cleaning your bands, here's what I do to clean my nylon Apple Watch bands (for metal and leather bands, I adhere to Apple's guidelines).

1. Gather your supplies:
   • Some paper towels
   • Your nylon Apple Watch bands
   • A bowl
   • Warm water
   • A spare toothbrush with soft bristles
   • Mild soap
2. Add the warm water and a touch of mild soap to the bowl.
3. Drop your nylon Apple Watch bands in the warm water and allow them to sink to the bottom of the bowl.
4. Remove your nylon Apple Watch bands from the bowl shortly after they sink to the bottom (this means they're saturated with water).
5. Place your nylon Apple Watch bands on the paper towel(s) and gently brush the surface of your bands with the soft-bristle toothbrush.
6. Repeat steps 3 - 5 for particularly pesky grime.
7. Dry your nylon Apple Watch bands by patting them with a dry paper towel (do not scrub).
8. Allow your nylon Apple Watch bands to air dry (can take up to several hours).

Questions?

That's all it takes to get your Apple Watch and Apple Watch bands so fresh and so clean (clean). If you have any questions about the process, be sure to leave a comment!

Lithium-ion batteries do not last forever. As iPhones age, declines in battery life can cause unexpected shutdowns or render your device too slow to function. While Apple now has a number of ways you can address this problem including a new Battery Health section in Settings, if your battery has dropped below peak capacity it's time to consider a replacement. There are a few different options before you consider a DIY repair, so read below!

• How to replace a broken iPhone 6 battery
• Required tools and parts
• Remove the Screen
• Disconnect the cables
• Replace the battery
• Put it all back together

Make an appointment with Apple

Apple's $29 battery replacement program is simple and inexpensive for iPhone 6 owners — assuming you have the time for an Apple store or Apple Authorized Service Representative visit and they have the part in stock. (Stores have reported a 2-3 month wait for certain battery replacements, including iPhone 6 models.)

Start a repair request

Repair the battery yourself

You can pull off the iPhone 6 battery yourself using our handy DIY guide. So if Apple doesn't have your iPhone battery in stock, don't fret.

Always make sure to back up your phone before any repair.

• Find a work area with bright lighting - iPhone components are small and you'll want plenty of light.
• Keep a clean, organized workspace so you don't lose or confuse any components.
• Group your screws so you can keep track of where they came from. Most screws are not interchangeable.
• Apply enough heat to loosen adhesive but not enough to damage the device.
• At any point during a repair, if the adhesive becomes hard to separate, apply more heat.
• After separating adhesive, keep the housing and screen in close proximity until flex cable is disconnected.

How to replace a broken iPhone 6 battery

The iPhone 6 battery is difficult to remove and replace: Several flex cables can be torn easily, so proceed carefully.

Obviously, you need a replacement battery, but you're going to need some tools as well if you're going to do this right.

• iPhone 6 battery
• Metal spudger
• Phillips head srewdriver
• Pentalobe screwdriver
• Spudger
• Tweezers

While not required to repair your iPhone, we also recommend you use a magnetic mat and screw capsules to keep everything organized. iPhones are full of tiny screws; mats and screw capsules will help you keep them on your table and not lost on the floor.

1. Unscrew the two pentalobe screws on either side of the lightning dock on the bottom edge of the iPhone 6.
2. Use the metal spudger to slowly and carefully separate the glass screen of the iPhone from the body. Start on the bottom edge of the device and proceed slowly. The flex cable for the screen is at the top.

3. Slowly pull the top of the screen away from the body and locate the EMI (electromagnetic interference) shield located by the bottom right of the battery.

4. Unscrew the two screws securing the EMI shield to the logic board and remove it.

5. Using a spudger, disconnect the battery cable from the logic board.

6. Start removing the screen from the logic board. The screen's flex cable connectors are held onto the logic board with a metal shield plate. This plate has 5 Phillips screws that must be removed to be able to disconnect the flex cables from the logic board with a plastic spudger. Make sure you remove these screws and mark where they go. Incorrect placement will cause long screw damage to the logic board.

Two strips of white adhesive underneath the battery hold it in place. The best way to remove the battery is to roll and pull these strips out with tweezers.

1. Position your tweezer tip under the black adhesive at the bottom of the battery as shown.

2. Press the tweezer tip about halfway across the bottom of the battery.

3. Now roll your tweezers, pulling the white adhesive out from under the battery. Simultaneously pull the tweezers away from the phone.

4. There is another strip of adhesive under the battery on the iPhone 6. Use the same technique to roll and pull the other strip of adhesive.

5. Use a plastic spudger to gently pry the battery away from the base. If you pry from the logic board side, do not use the logic board for leverage as you might damage it.

6. With adhesive tape, affix the replacement battery into place with gentle pressure.

1. Reconnect the front-facing camera flex, LCD cable, digitizer cable and home button flex cable to the logic board.
2. Screw in the display cable EMI shield using four Philips head screws.
3. Reconnect the battery connector. Use your plastic spudger to put it in place then press gently down with your finger to connect, distributing the pressure evenly to not damage the flex connector.

4. Screw in the battery connector EMI shield with two Phillips head screws. The larger screw goes in closest to the battery.

5. Fold the screen over the body. Insert the top of the screen into the frame first. Proceed carefully, it will click back into place but don't press too hard on the glass.

6. Screw in the two pentalobe screws that go on either side of the lightning port.

Run into trouble?

If you have any other questions about swapping out your iPhone 6's battery, or if you find this iPhone 6 repair too complicated to attempt on your own, check out iMore's repair partner iFixYouri online at www.ifixyouri.com or at 888-494-4349.

The Apple Watch is one of the best wearables on the market for tracking your health and having core smartphone features on your wrist, but — like any frequently-used technology — the more exposed it is to the outside world, the likelier it is to have problems down the line.

RECALLS: Certain Series 2 Apple Watches may be eligible for free repairs or replacements if they have swollen batteries; read our section on service programs, recalls, and free repairs for more information.

If you're having difficulty using your Apple Watch due to a broken screen, jammed Digital Crown, swollen battery, bad band unlock mechanism, and more, here are your options for getting your watch back up and ticking.

• How to repair your Apple Watch yourself
• How to get Apple to repair or replace your Apple Watch
• What is Apple's Express Replacement Service for Apple Watch?
• Apple Watch Series 2's battery swelling replacements: What you need to know

How to repair your Apple Watch yourself

Are your Apple Watch problems software-based? Before you call AppleCare, there are a few steps you can take to try and troubleshoot a malfunctioning wristwatch. And if they're hardware based, there are a few guides and companies who can help you repair your watch yourself.

Running into cellular or Wi-Fi connection problems? Slow apps? Malfunctioning displays? Here are some of our favorite tricks for troubleshooting your Apple Watch and getting it back to normal.

How to troubleshoot your Apple Watch

It's a fact of life: Dirt, dust, lint, and grime will get into any device you regularly use out in the open — especially one that you wear on your wrist. If your screen is getting gross, your bands are getting dirty, or your hardware buttons have stopped being quite so responsive, you can clean your Apple Watch in a few easy steps.

• How to clean your Apple Watch
• How to clean, buff, and remove scratches from your stainless steel Apple Watch
• Best ways to protect the Apple Watch while working out
• How to swap out your Apple Watch band

This isn't the first thing we'd recommend: Apple Watch repairs are incredibly tricky and should only be attempted if you already have a solid DIY foundation. That said, if you're in a jam and the Apple Store's service pricing is too expensive — or will take too long — you can do certain repairs yourself, including screen replacement. Currently, iFixit has the best Apple Watch repair guides out there; check their repository if you're considering going the DIY route.

iFixit's Guides on Repairing Your Apple Watch Yourself

How to get Apple to repair or replace your Apple Watch

Run out of self-troubleshooting options? It may be time to talk to an Apple Authorized Service Professional or Apple Support. If your Apple Watch needs a hardware repair, you have two options in the Apple Support ecosystem: under warranty, or out of warranty.

For any of these options, you'll need any of the following three items:

• Your Apple Watch
• Your Apple Watch Serial Number
• Original proof of purchase

If you're under your original warranty (one year for Apple Watch, Sport, and Niké models; two years for Edition and Hermès), you'll be able to get service for any manufacturing defects, batteries that hold less than 80% of a charge or are unnaturally swollen, and screen cracks from manufacturing defects. Your base-model warranty doesn't cover accidental damage to the screen or water damage.

If you picked up AppleCare+, you're covered for up to two years on the standard warranty, as well as two incidents of accidental damage for $69 (or $79 for Hermès and Edition) each.

AppleCare+ also gives its subscribers the benefit of Express Replacement Service: If you have a malfunctioning or broken Apple Watch but don't want to lose your exercise streaks or go without while your smartwatch is being repaired, Apple will send you a replacement watch immediately, along with a box and shipping label to mail your malfunctioning watch back to Apple.

There are a few caveats here: Your replacement watch can't have engraving, for one. In addition, Apple will place a hold on your credit card for the replacement value of the watch until you return your old watch; you'll also need to return that watch within 10 days to avoid paying late fees. And if the watch is unrepairable and not a manufacturing defect, you may be charged an accidental damage fee.

Non-AppleCare+ users can take advantage of Express Replacement Service, too, but it'll cost you an out-of-warranty service fee (which varies from $199-$2800, depending on the device).

Apple's Express Replacement Service Pricing

If you're out of warranty, pricing varies depending on the type of repair needed for your Apple Watch.

In the United States, battery replacement service costs $79, no matter which Apple Watch Series you own. The out-of-warranty service fees vary a bit more, with low-end Series 1 and 2 watches costing $199, and Edition watches $800-$2800.

There is a third way to get your Apple Watch repaired: if it qualifies under one of Apple's public or internal service programs. Currently, Apple has a service program open for 42mm Series 2 Apple Watch models that may be experiencing swollen batteries or do not power on. As reported by MacRumors, the program is currently open to users in the U.S., Canada, Mexico, and Europe, and likely other countries as well.

This isn't the first time Apple has offered an extended repair period or waived costs for swollen Apple Watch batteries: It did the same for Series 0 Apple Watch models (both 38mm and 42mm) for up to three years after the original date of purchase.

All 42mm Apple Watch Series 2 models less than three years old are eligible for this program, including Sport, Nike+, Steel, Edition, and Hermès.

If you already paid for an Apple Watch out-of-service battery repair, you can contact Apple Support to inquire about a refund.

1. Open a support ticket for your Apple Watch on Apple's website.
2. Choose the Bring in for Repair option to find a local Apple Store or Authorized Service Provider to repair or replace your watch. You can alternatively choose to Talk to Apple Support Now, and set up an Express Replacement Service.

• How to exchange or repair your Apple product if you don't have an Apple store near you

Questions about repairing or replacing your Apple Watch?

Let us know in the comments.

Apple's HomePod is a surprisingly small, surprisingly loud, and surprisingly heavy speaker. It's packed with tweeters, microphones, and other audio hardware all susceptible to physical damage (especially if you find yourself moving it around a lot). It's also packed with Siri and other HomePod-specific software that, while not susceptible to drops, is always susceptible to software bugs. If you're having trouble connecting to your HomePod or are dealing with a bit of physical damage, here are the best ways to repair or replace your speaker.

• How to repair your HomePod
• How to replace your HomePod

How to repair your HomePod

Having some trouble with your HomePod and want to try to tackle the problem yourself? Before you schedule an appointment with Apple Support, there are some troubleshooting tips and tricks to try.

The HomePod setup process is super simple — if you can get your iPhone or iPad to connect to it. If you're having trouble getting that initial connection, running into issues with Siri, struggling to stream over AirPlay, or finding yourself unable to control your HomeKit-enabled accessories with HomePod, we've got a guide that'll help you out with all that and more.

How to troubleshoot HomePod

You bought the white HomePod, didn't you? Thanks to the acoustically transparent fabric surface of the HomePod (and it's sneaky siren call that seems to sing "pick me up, hold me in your hands"), you may find yourself in an ongoing battle with dust, lint, fingerprints, and any other debris. Here's what you need to know about cleaning your HomePod.

How to clean your HomePod

Yeah, so that new HomePod of yours? Turns out it may leave white rings on the wood surfaces in your home. If you'd rather it not do that, check out our guide on keeping your surfaces protected from the dreaded white ring.

How to stop HomePod and Sonos One from leaving white rings on wood furniture

… do as we say, not as we do. Your HomePod is fit to burst with electronic components that have been precisely placed for the best possible audio output. It's also covered in that acoustic mesh we talked about before. Oh, and iFixit gave the HomePod a 1/10 repairability score, which basically means that you should leave repairs to the professionals.

If all hope is lost, there is an answer to your problems …

How to replace your HomePod

If you've misplaced your HomePod (must've been quite the party), broken it in some way (really must've been quite the party), or are faced with a manufacturing issue, then you've got some options other than simply buying a whole new speaker.

• If you've got Apple Care+ and your issue is an incident of accidental damage, you'll pay a $39 service fee.
• If your issue is covered under warranty, AppleCare+, or consumer law, there will be no charge to repair or replace your HomePod.
• If your HomePod is out of warranty, Apple charges a $279 fee.

In order to facilitate the replacement, you're going to need the following:

• Your HomePod
• Your HomePod serial number (click here if you need help finding it)
• Your original proof of purchase

You can start the replacement process by setting up an appointment at an Apple Store or by contacting Apple to set up a mail-in service request. Visit Apple's HomePod Service and Repair page to get the process started.

If you do go for the mail-in option and want to have a replacement HomePod in hand as quickly as you can, Apple offers an Express Replacement Service. Apple will ship you a replacement HomePod and you'll be required to send in your original speaker within 10 business days. Apple will place a temporary authorization on your credit card equal to the full replacement value of your HomePod and it'll expire if the following conditions are met:

• Your repair is covered under warranty, an AppleCare plan, or consumer law
• Apple receives your HomePod within 10 business days

Questions about repairing or replacing your HomePod?

Need some more assistance with repairing or replacing your HomePod? Gimme a shout in the comments!

No lithium-ion battery lasts forever: As your iPhone ages, declines in battery life can cause unexpected shutdowns or render your device too slow to function. While Apple now has a number of ways you can address this problem including a new Battery Health section in Settings, if your battery has dropped below peak capacity, it's worth considering a replacement.

There are several ways to replace a bad iPhone battery, depending on your monetary situation and free time.

• Get Apple to fix it
• Fix it yourself
• Required tools and parts
• Open the iPhone
• Disconnect the cables
• Replace the battery
• Put it all back together

Make an appointment with Apple

Apple's $29 battery replacement program is simple and inexpensive for iPhone 6s owners — assuming you have the time to visit an Apple Store or Apple Authorized Service Representative and they have the parts in stock. (Some stores have a 2-3 month waiting list for certain battery replacements, including the iPhone 6s.)

Start a repair request

Repair the battery yourself

If Apple doesn't have your iPhone's battery in stock, never fear: You can swap out the iPhone 6s battery yourself using our handy DIY guide.

Always make sure to back up your phone before any repair.

• Always use good lighting - smart device components are small and you'll need plenty of light to see what you are doing.
• Maintain a clean, organized workspace so you don't lose or confuse any components.
• Group your screws so you can keep track of where they came from. Most screws cannot be interchanged.
• Apply enough heat to loosen adhesive but not enough to damage the device.
• At any point during a repair, if the adhesive becomes hard to separate, apply more heat.
• After separating adhesive, keep the housing and screen in close proximity until flex cable is disconnected.

How to replace a broken iPhone 6s battery

The iPhone 6s battery is difficult to remove and replace: Several flex cables can be torn easily, so proceed carefully.

Not only will need a new battery, you're going to need some tools if you're going to do this right. Or at all.

• iPhone 6s battery
• Metal spudger
• Phillips head srewdriver
• Pentalobe screwdriver
• Spudger
• Tweezers
• Adhesive
• Dehydrator, heat gun, or heat mat

While not required to repair your iPhone, we also recommend you use a magnetic mat and screw capsules to keep everything organized. You're going to be working with some tiny screws here; these will help you keep them on your table and not lost on the floor.

1. Remove the two pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the phone. They are on either side of the lightning port.

2. Using the metal spudger, slowly and carefully separate the screen of the iPhone from the body. Start on the bottom edge by the Lightning port and proceed slowly.

3. Continue using the metal spudger or use playing cards or guitar picks to separate the adhesive from the sides and top. Don't push the metal spudger too far into the device.

4. The bottom side of the screen can now be pulled away from the body. The flex cable connecting the screen to the battery will still be attached near the top, so exercise caution.

1. Remove the two Phillips screws securing the battery connector EMI shield.

2. After the shield is off, use a plastic spudger to disconnect the battery from the logic board.

3. Remove the following four Phillips screws securing the display cable EMI shield and set the shield aside.

4. Use a plastic spudger to disconnect the front camera flex cable, digitizer cable, LCD cable and home button flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

5. Remove the LCD assembly of the iPhone 6s from the body.

There are two strips of white adhesive underneath the battery. The best way to take out the battery is to roll and pull the strips out using tweezers.

1. Slide your tweezer tip under the black adhesive at the bottom of the battery as shown.

2. Push your tweezer tip about halfway across the bottom of the battery.

3. Roll your tweezers, pulling the white adhesive out from under the battery. At the same time, pull the tweezers away from the phone.

4. There is one more strip of adhesive under the battery on the 6s. Use the same roll and pull technique to remove the other strip.

5. If you snap a piece of adhesive, you will have to use a plastic spudger to gently pry the battery off the base. If you pry from the logic board side, do not use the logic board for leverage as you may damage it.

6. Remove the battery from the body of the phone.

7. Using adhesive tape, affix the replacement battery into place with gentle pressure.

1. Reconnect the front-facing camera flex, lcd cable, ditizer cable and home button flex cable to the logic board.
2. Screw in the display cable EMI shield using four Philips head screws.

3. Reconnect the battery connector. Use your plastic spudger to put it in place then press gently down with your finger to connect, distributing the pressure evenly to not damage the flex connector.

4. Screw in the battery connector EMI shield with two Phillips head screws. The larger screw goes in closest to the battery.

5. Fold the screen over the body. Insert the top of the screen into the frame first. Proceed carefully, it will click back into place but don't press too hard on the glass.

6. Screw in the two pentalobe screws that go on either side of the lightning port.

Run into trouble?

If you have any other questions about swapping out your iPhone 6s's battery, or if you find this iPhone 6s repair too complicated to attempt on your own, check out iMore's repair partner iFixYouri online at www.ifixyouri.com or at 888-494-4349.

Apple's HomePod is, like many of its more recent products, almost impossible to take apart without power tools or executive knowhow. But there is one moving piece.

The new-and-improved fabric power cable may not have the same connector as its Apple TV or iMac brethren, but it is removable — though it requires a hefty yank to make that happen (and an equally hefty shove against a table to get it back in place).

But unlike Apple's other products, the HomePod's removable cable isn't something you should consider doing regularly. According to Apple's HomePod Service Readiness guide (which MacRumors obtained):

If Apple doesn't want its own in-store employees to fix HomePod cables (instead opting to send all HomePod repairs straight to centralized depots), you might want to think twice about removing yours.

The danger of yanking on what we don't understand

Apple presumably doesn't wish for users or store Geniuses to yank on the cable for two reasons: Potential damage to the cable itself, or the very small, very fragile power prongs inside the speaker.

Damage to either one could provoke random shutdowns, potentially poor electrical seals, and a number of other issues — none of which any HomePod user may want to risk.

Having removed and reconnected the power cable on Rene's HomePod multiple times, the process isn't particularly complicated: A small plastic ring on the power cable snaps into place inside the HomePod's chassis; to remove the cable, you have to pull the cord with enough force to compress the ring.

But that force requires a not-insignificant tug — I consider myself fairly strong, and it took me winding the cable around my fist and a few strong wiggles and yanks to remove the cord.

Putting it in is an even more laborious task, because you need enough pressure to snap the plastic ring back in place.

Note: You also need to make sure you've aligned the cord properly, though the cable connector is smart enough to be slanted, so improper fittings won't sit flush against the speaker.

I eventually resorted to using a table edge to snap the cord back into place, though it made me cringe every time.

Right to repair is meaningless without HomePod parts

There are perfectly legitimate reasons for wanting to know how to remove pieces of the HomePod: It'd certainly be easier to feed the smaller, removed end of the cord through an entertainment system, for one. There's also a growing argument on Right to Repair for electronic devices, which argues that consumers will frequently throw away old products that aren't accessible rather than attempt to fix them.

I'm not against right to repair, though there's not much you'll be able to do with the HomePod at present (everything besides the cable is sealed with glue and invisible screws). But just because the power cord is removable doesn't mean it's fixable — without a third-party replacement part (or official replacement parts from Apple), removing the power cord does little more than provide a fun showcase of strength at a party.

In the future, if Apple provides replacement parts, this might be a different story. And the argument on whether they should provide replacement parts is a worthy one.

But at the end of the day, I'm not going to advise people learn how to yank out their power cords in the hope that maybe Apple will provide replacement cords — and in the meantime, possibly damage their far-harder-to-repair internals.

Yank at your own risk

Whether you want to remove the cable to thread it through your entertainment system, or you're just curious how Apple's new plug works, it is doable — but be careful. If you damage the internal prongs or the cable itself in the process, you'll be paying some sort of sum to put everything back together again. If you've damaged the cable, it's just $29 to replace it (whether or not you have AppleCare+), but damaging the internals could run you up a much pricier repair — $39 if you have AppleCare+, $279 if you don't.

Updated February 13, 2018: Corrected AppleCare+ numbers.

The iPhone 7 Plus's screen is beautiful, to be sure — but that glass beauty can break if dropped, smashed, or otherwise chipped against similarly-hard surfaces. Some breaks are worse than others, but if you completely smash your screen, you're probably in need of a screen repair.

After all, modern iPhone screens aren't just LCD and glass: They pack several different components in one. The digitizer reads your finger contact and movement; the LCD displays all the images, video, and other visual information, and the glass screen helps shield the inner components of the phone. As such, whether you crack the glass, run into a black screen, or can't interact with your phone via touch, you'll need to replace the entire screen to get your phone working properly again. When you crack your screen, it also destroys your iPhone's water resistance; if you're used to keeping it near water, you'll definitely want to fix your device.

There are several ways to repair or replace a broken iPhone screen, depending on your monetary situation and free time. Here are a couple, in order of easiest (and cheapest) to most complicated.

• Buy a screen protector
• Get Apple to fix it
• Fix it yourself
• Required tools and parts
• Open the iPhone
• Disconnect the cables
• Remove the camera and speaker
• Remove the home button
• Replace the screen
• Put it all back together

Buy a screen protector

If your screen is shattered but relatively intact, you can put off a potentially-costly repair by sealing the broken pieces behind a screen protector. I'll note that this is a temporary measure, and one I generally recommend for screens that are cracked, but not completely destroyed — it can keep the cracks from worsening or pieces of the screen from falling apart, but eventually, you'll need to replace the screen. It also won't maintain your iPhone's water resistance.

• See at Amazon
• Best iPhone 7 Plus Screen Protectors
• How to replace a tempered glass screen protector

Make an appointment with Apple

The iPhone 7 and 7 Plus screens have more complicated technology embedded within them than any iPhone before them: Between the Touch ID sensor, Taptic Engine-based Home Button, 3D Touch display, and FaceTime front-facing camera, a cracked iPhone screen can be a real hassle to replace.

Luckily, if you purchased AppleCare+ with your iPhone, a screen repair is simple and inexpensive — assuming you have the time to send it to Apple. It's just $29 to fix a broken iPhone 7 or 7 Plus screen, and an Apple Store or Apple Authorized Service Representative store you visit has the equipment necessary to properly remove, replace, and re-calibrate your iPhone for Touch ID and water resistance.

Start a repair request

Repair the screen yourself

In past years, we've recommended this option above making an appointment with Apple, but as the iPhone screen has gotten more complicated — a home-brew repair can potentially hinder your device from full operability. (You won't be able to re-calibrate your screen for water resistance, for instance.)

But if you'd prefer to repair your gadgets yourself, here's the best way to go about it.

If your glass is intact, but your screen is black or you have lost touch control, you should always try a soft reset of your iPhone before this repair.

1. Press and hold the Power button on the right side of your phone.
2. While holding the Power button down, press and hold the Volume Down button on the left side of your phone.
3. Hold both buttons down until you see the Apple logo on the screen.

If the Apple logo doesn't appear after holding down the buttons and waiting for at least 90 seconds, your phone likely needs a screen repair.

Always make sure to back up your phone before any repair.

• Always use good lighting - smart device components are small and you'll need plenty of light to see what you are doing.
• Maintain a clean, organized workspace so you don't lose or confuse any components.
• Group your screws so you can keep track of where they came from. Most screws cannot be interchanged.
• Apply enough heat to loosen adhesive but not enough to damage the device.
• At any point during a repair, if the adhesive becomes hard to separate, apply more heat.
• After separating adhesive, keep the housing and screen in close proximity until flex cable is disconnected.

How to replace a broken iPhone 7 Plus screen

The iPhone 7 Plus LCD screen assembly is difficult to remove and replace: Several flex cables can be torn easily, so proceed carefully. In addition, loosening the screen's adhesive requires controlled heating with a dehydrator or heat gun.

Not only will need a new screen — an "LCD Assembly", if you want to be technical about the part — you're going to need some tools if you're going to do this right. Or at all.

• iPhone 7 Plus LCD assembly
• Metal spudger
• Phillips head srewdriver
• Pentalobe screwdriver
• Tri-point screwdriver
• Spudger
• Dehydrator, heat Gun, or heat mat

While not required to repair your iPhone, we also recommend you use a magnetic mat and screw capsules to keep everything organized. You're going to be working with some tiny screw here; these will help you keep them on your table and not lost on the floor.

Start by heating up the device's interior adhesive strips with a dehydrator, heat gun, or heat mat. Heat guns are the quickest, but be careful because it is easy to overdo it and damage the device. Twenty minutes in the dehydrator should be enough. Ten to twenty seconds of a heat gun on a low setting should be all you need to loosen the adhesive.

1. Remove the two pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the phone. They are on either side of the lightning port.

2. Using the metal spudger, slowly and carefully separate the screen of the iPhone from the body. Start on the bottom edge by the Lightning port and proceed slowly.

3. Continue using the metal spudger or use playing cards or guitar picks to separate the adhesive from the sides and top. Don't push the metal spudger too far into the device.
4. The left side of the screen will open off the body like a book opened from the back cover. The flex cable connecting the screen to the battery will still be attached, so exercise caution.

1. Remove the silver EMI shield on the mid-right side of the phone needs. It is secured by four tri-point screws; one of those screws is longer than the others.

2. After the shield is off, use a spudger to disconnect the battery from the logic board.

3. Disconnect the display connector flex cable using the spudger.

4. Unscrew the two Philips head screws on the shield over the front panel sensor assembly connector; that's the silver shield near the top of the phone with the flex cable coming out of the bottom.

5. Disconnect the black front panel sensor assembly connector cable from the logic board with the spudger: It's the one that connects the screen to the iPhone's body.

6. Remove the LCD assembly of the iPhone 7 Plus from the body.

1. Next, we will remove the five Phillips head screws that hold the silver bracket on the top of the LCD assembly.

2. Pull the front camera up and out of the way with your spudger or tweezers.
3. You can now also remove the earpiece speaker.

4. Use your spudger to remove the ambient light sensor and proximity sensor. This is a thin cable that is easy to tear so use caution.

The Touch ID sensor must be removed carefully. Failing to remove it safely or breaking any of its connectors will require visiting an Apple Store.

1. Unscrew the pentalobe screws holding the Touch ID and home button bracket.

2. Remove all the screws around the sides of the LCD shield. There are 5 tri-point screws and 1 Philips head screw on the bottom edge.

3. Pull the LCD shield away from the screen. The flex cable passes through an opening on one side.

4. Using your spudger, disconnect the home button cable connector.

5. Disconnect the underlying connection carefully.

6. Pry the adhesive holding the Touch ID and Home button to the back of the digitizer.
7. Push the home button forward through the front of the screen.

1. Insert the home button into the new screen from the front.

2. Reconnect the home button flex cable.

3. Pass the flex cable through the LCD shield.
4. Set the LCD shield in place over the screen.

5. Screw the 5 tri-point screws and single Philips head screw that fasten the LCD shield to the screen.

6. Re-attach the home button bracket. There are four tri-wing screws. Do not overtighten as this can cause home button issues. The shorter screw goes directly on the home button.

7. Using your plastic spudger, gently press the ambient light and proximity sensor back into place.

8. Re-install the front camera.

9. Re-install the earpiece speaker.

10. Attach the bracket over the front camera. It needs five Phillips heads.

1. Reconnect the front-facing camera flex to the logic board.

2. Screw in the front facing camera EMI shield using two Philips head screws.

3. Reconnect the display flex cable.

4. Fasten the display flex EMI shield back onto the mid-right side of the phone using its four tri-point screws. The longer screw goes in the right corner.

5. Fold the screen over the body. Insert the top of the screen into the frame first. Proceed carefully, it will click back into place but don't press too hard on the glass.

6. Screw in the two pentalobe screws that go on either side of the lightning port.

If you have any other questions about this repair, or if you find this iPhone 7 Plus repair too complicated to attempt on your own, check out iMore's repair partner iFixYouri online at www.ifixyouri.com or at 888-494-4349.

Apple's AirPods are the best wire-free earbuds on the market, but their small size and complex electronics makes them prone to loss or occasional damage. If you're having difficulty with your AirPods turning on or playing correctly, here are the best ways to repair — and, worst case, replace — your beloved buds.

• How to repair your AirPods
• How to find missing AirPods
• How to replace your AirPods

How to repair your AirPods

Before you call AppleCare, there are a few steps you can take to try and troubleshoot a malfunctioning set of AirPods.

Seeing weird lights from your charging case, malfunctioning battery information, or your AirPods just won't turn on? Here are some of the basic issues you may run into and how to troubleshoot them.

How to troubleshoot and reset your AirPods

It's a fact of life: Dirt, dust, lint, grime, ear wax, and more are constantly finding their way onto — or into — your AirPods. You may lose sound quality or your buds may stop charging if your earbuds get too grimy; to fix these issues, you can clean your AirPods in a few easy steps.

How to clean your AirPods

Much as we'd like to give you a guide on how to electronically repair a malfunctioning earbud for your AirPods, the size and complexity of Apple's wireless headphones makes that impossible. iFixit gave the AirPods a 0/10 repairability score — they're nigh-impossible to fix without completely destroying either the case or the earbuds in the process.

Luckily, there is another way…

How to replace your AirPods

Whether you've destroyed or lost your AirPods, you don't have to buy a whole new set to make them shiny and new again.

There's no getting around it: the AirPods are small. It's what happens when you chop the cord off a set of in-ear buds; they don't have much mass, and if you don't remember to store them in their pillbox case, you may find yourself frantically searching for an earbud or two.

Thankfully, if you've accidentally misplaced one of your AirPods, iOS 10.3 and Apple's Find My iPhone app will let you hunt it down as long as you're within Bluetooth range.

How to find lost AirPods

You have three options for replacing lost or broken AirPods: under warranty; out of warranty; or total loss.

For any of these options, you'll need any of the following three items:

• Your AirPods
• Your AirPods Serial Number (found either on the underside of the AirPods lid casing or by connecting them to your iPhone and going to Settings > General > About > AirPods)
• Original proof of purchase

If one of your AirPods earbuds (or the case itself) breaks due to manufacturing defect within the first year of owning it, you should be able to get Apple to replace the affected piece(s) for free.

If it's just the battery that's affected, you can replace a single bud (or the case) for $49 each.

If one of your earbuds (or the case) breaks while out of warranty, or they incur accidental damage (i.e. being dropped in a pool) while in warranty, you can get the affected item replaced for $69 (or the full retail value, if you've broken both earbuds and the charging case).

If you've lost an earbud or the case, you can also pay a loss fee to get an item replaced for $69 (or the full retail value, if you've lost the whole set).

1. Open a support ticket for your AirPods on Apple's website.
2. Choose the Bring in for Repair option to find a local Apple Store or Authorized Service Provider to replace the affected AirPod. You can alternatively choose to Talk to Apple Support Now, and mail in your malfunctioning pieces for analysis and replacement.Note: If you choose to mail in your broken AirPods, Apple will place a temporary authorization for the full amount of a replacement set of AirPods until the company verifies that the repair is either under warranty or you're just replacing one specific piece.

Questions about repairing or replacing your AirPods?

Let us know in the comments.

Whenever I visit my dad's home for an extended period of time, I often drop my iPhone 7 Plus on his kitchen counter and plug it into his charger, which he leaves plugged in. After following this routine on a few separate occasions, I noticed that my Touch ID frequently wouldn't unlock the device while it was connected to his charger. At first, I thought it was just some goofy glitch, and I simply tapped in my password instead of using Touch ID. That worked. No biggie.

Over time it occurred to me that if I unplugged my iPhone from the charger before trying to use Touch ID to unlock it, I never experienced the problem. However, if I left it plugged in and tried to use the fingerprint sensor, nothing happened. No Touch ID error, nothing. The sensor just froze up and didn't work.

I like to think I'm pretty smart (or as some of us Bostonians say, smaahht). So I put two and two together to come up with four: The problem had to do with my dad's charger. It clearly was not an official Apple charger, and it wasn't in great condition. When I asked where he got it, I received some noncommittal response like, "I don't know ... the airport?" And I never had, or have since, experienced the problem with my other charging cables.

After doing some digging on the good ol' Googles, I learned that my issue is by no means an isolated incident. Cheap third-party chargers like my dad's often result in quite a few different issues, including Touch ID errors or malfunctions. Here's a quick possible explanation of the issue.

Why your crappy iPhone charger borks Touch ID

From a Wired article on how Touch ID works:

The key word there is "electrical".

From an Apple Communities thread:

And from another related thread on Quora.com:

I'm not at all certain that the last two people cited above know what they're talking about, but my problem clearly had to do with the charger.

To be clear, other issues with charging and Touch ID can cause similar problems. For example, some folks in the same Apple support thread suggest that they resolved their issues by removing a problematic case or by "grounding" the phone. But my problem clearly had to do with that bum charger, and I've never experienced it when using Apple power cords.

How to fix the Touch ID charging problem

Thankfully, if you're experiencing the same issue I did, there's a very easy way to diagnose and resolve the problem:

1. Find yourself an authentic iPhone charging cable made by Apple, like the one that came with your phone (or should have) or that's Apple Made for iPhone/iPod/iPad (MFi)-approved.
2. Plug your phone into a power outlet using that Lightning cable, and see if you have the same problem. If not, your issue is related to your crappy third-party charger.
   • If you continue to have the same issue, try plugging your phone into a different power source and moving it as far away from that outlet as possible, and then remove any cases you may have on there. If that still doesn't work, you might have a hardware issue. Contact Apple support for further options.
3. Locate your nearest trash receptacle — or better yet, find a local electronics recycler.
4. With gusto, toss that suspect charger in there and never look back.
5. Only use your Apple-certified Lightning charger or buy a new one. (You know, you never can have too many charging cables.)

For more information on our favorite Lightning cables or to purchase one from Apple, hit these links:

• Best Lightning cables for charging your iPhone and iPad
• Visit Apple's site to purchase official Lightning cables

In some countries, cities, and towns, there are no Apple stores. I know. What fresh hell is that? Many, however, have authorized resellers, but these resellers often can't perform the same services Apple can. For example, exchanging a defective device may not be possible through a reseller, or if you need a repair, you might have to send it to an authorized repair center.

If that sounds like your case, then here's what you can do to exchange, repair, or return your Apple product.

• How to exchange your product
• How to return your Apple product for refund if you ordered online through Apple
• How to return/repair your Apple product if you bought it from an authorized reseller

How to exchange your product

Let's get this out of the way first: The only way to exchange your Apple product is to do so in-store, whether that's at an Apple store or at the authorized reseller you bought from. Whether or not you can exchange via the reseller is completely dependent on that reseller's policies, which are totally separate from Apple's.

How to return your Apple product for refund if you ordered online through Apple

In order to return something you ordered online through Apple, you'll have to ship it back to Apple directly, but if you follow the online instructions, it's not too difficult. You have 14 days from the day you received the item to return it for a refund.

1. Sign into Apple's online Order Status.
2. View your most recent order.
3. Click the Return Items link.
4. Select the item(s) you want to return.
5. Click Continue.
6. Verify the item you're returning and your address on the prepaid return label.
7. Print the label and any hazmat labels.

Be sure to affix your labels to the same panel on your box and print out multiple labels if you're sending multiple boxes. Depending on the carrier, you can schedule a pickup or drop it off at that any of that carrier's locations.

How to return/repair your Apple product if you bought it from an authorized reseller

Authorized resellers have their own return and refund policies, and may even have authorized services centers, so you have to abide by those. However, if you have a legitimate need to return the item and the reseller won't take it back (because it's open, used, whatever), then you can return it to Apple directly in some cases.

First, you can try contacting Apple within 14 days of your purchase. Email Apple at AC_RightofReturn@apple.com to request the return. The customer service will tell you what you need to do from there.

Make sure to include the following information:

• That you purchased the product from an authorized reseller in the U.S. or Canada and it refused to accept the return
• The reseller's name and address, the product and version you bought, the purchase price, and a receipt
• Make sure the name on the receipt matches the name on the return
• The completed Return and Affidavit form

Be sure to get tracking for the item and to insure it or declare the full value; otherwise, you're liable for any loss or damage during shipping.

If you're looking to get your product repaired, use your AppleCare+ first. The ways to contact AppleCare and to send them your product will be outlined in your policy.

If you don't have AppleCare+, you can search for authorized service centers in your area. Oftentimes, authorized resellers are also authorized service centers.

Find Apple authorized service centers

If you live outside the U.S. or Canada and bought from a reseller, your best course of action is to contact Apple directly, either via email, online chat, or by phone. The ways in which you can contact Apple will vary based on your region, so use Apple's support site to select your region in order to get the help you need.

Because Apple lets authorized resellers set their own return and refund policies, your reseller may not let you return your product for a number of reasons. So your best bet in that case is always to contact Apple directly. In some cases, you will have to resort to using the standard warranty that comes with all Apple products; otherwise, you'll need to resort to the methods outlined in your AppleCare+ policy.

You can also try to find an authorized Apple service center if the reseller you bought from does not also operate as an authorized service center.

Find Apple authorized service centre

If all else fails, you can attempt to make the repair yourself. Depending on the repair needed, you may be able to find YouTube tutorials or Reddit threads outlining the repair process. This is only for the experienced and will definitely result in a voided warranty if you're still within the warranty period. Always contact Apple first.

Image via Staingate.org

According to a document obtained by MacRumors, Apple has extended its repair program for the second time, upping the coverage for those experiencing issues with anti-reflective coating to four years on eligible 12-inch MacBook or 13-inch and 15-inch MacBook Pro models. This means if your MacBook qualifies and is still within the four-year coverage period, you could get a free display replacement.

MacRumors has compiled a list of the absolute latest dates that 12-inch MacBook and MacBook Pro models will likely be eligible for coverage based on the date they were discontinued, but the site advises you to still check your receipt to be certain of when you purchased your computer. The list is as follows:

• 2013 13-inch MacBook Pro: July 2018
• 2013 15-inch MacBook Pro: July 2018
• 2014 13-inch MacBook Pro: March 2019
• 2014 15-inch MacBook Pro: May 2019
• 2015 13-inch MacBook Pro: October 2020
• 2015 15-inch MacBook Pro: Still sold
• 2016 13-inch MacBook Pro: June 2021
• 2016 15-inch MacBook Pro: June 2021
• 2017 13-inch MacBook Pro: Still sold
• 2017 15-inch MacBook Pro: Still sold
• 2015 12-inch MacBook: April 2020
• 2016 12-inch MacBook: June 2021
• 2017 12-inch MacBook: Still sold

The site also notes that the 2012 MacBook Pro is no longer eligible for coverage because it was discontinued over four years ago.

If you're suffering from the anti-reflective coating wear blues, you can schedule an appointment at your local Genius Bar by using the Apple Support App or by going directly to Apple's support page.

Because the updated repair program hasn't yet been announced publicly, some Apple support personnel may not know that it's been changed. MacRumors suggests escalating your request to a senior advisor if possible.

Questions?

Are you one of the thousands who have experienced issues with the anti-reflective coating on your MacBook or MacBook Pro? Share your thoughts with us in the comments.

Remember when your MacBook had a battery pack on the backside that you could just pop off and replace? It was just a thin, rectangle brick that was attached to the bottom with an easy release switch next to it. By 2012, Apple did away with such simplicity by gluing the battery into the casing, making it nigh-impossible to replace by oneself.

iFixit has been showing people how to replace the battery in the MacBook Pro with Retina since it first came out, but now the DIY computer repair organization has built a kit, specifically designed for replacing your old battery so you don't have to track down all those screwdrivers and spudgers individually.

Each MacBook Pro Retina battery repair kit comes with a plethora of screwdrivers, opening tools, an actual OEM battery from a compatible MacBook Pro, and the most important tool; adhesive solvent.

The battery that is glued to the frame of the MacBook Pro with Retina display is the most difficult thing to remove in the replacement process. Comments from a variety of the iFixit guides refer to DIYers who've punctured holes in their batteries, had sparks fly, or smoke plumes. It's a dangerous task and that glue is solid.

The MacBook Pro with Retina battery replacement kits start at $79.99 for the older version, the mid 2012-early 2013 models, and cost as much as $109.99 for the 2015 15-inch model. The fact that these kits come with an Apple original OEM battery make them a steal. An OEM battery on the resell market will cost you about $60.

Even at the highest cost of $109, you're still getting a bargain considering Apple charges at least $199 to replace a MacBook Pro battery out of warranty.

The question is whether you're willing to replace the battery yourself, even if you have a special kit and step-by-step instructions, complete with pictures. iFixit recommends that, if you're not an experienced gadget tinkerer, you should get a friend who is to help you. Laptops are the most difficult to DIY repair of all the Apple devices.

I've got a late 2012 MacBook Pro that I could tinker with, but the battery is actually still in stellar condition. Maybe when it finally takes a powder, I'll have the nerve to try this fix. The cost sure makes it worth giving a try.

How about you? Are you a DIY gadget repair person? Would you replace a dead battery, even though it's kinda dangerous?

Since Nintendo Switch hit retail stores, we've been hearing murmurings of issues with the left Joy-Con controller disconnecting from the Switch, leaving gamers up a creek without a paddle (if you're playing a game where you're in a boat). There's been plenty of speculation as to what's causing the problem, and plenty more people trying to come up with home remedies.

If you've been tempted to crack open your left Joy-Con controller and try installing a new antenna where no antenna should go, you might just want to try calling Nintendo. Sean Hollister of CNET did what none of us had thought to do (probably because we're a bunch of DIY tech geeks that think we can fix the problem ourselves). He called Nintendo's customer service and they promptly repaired his controller.

The most interesting part of this story is that Hollister had the foresight to take a picture of the guts of his Joy-Con before sending it off, and again upon its return.

There was no new antenna, no new motherboard, and no new connectors. The only noticeable difference from before and after was a tiny piece of conductive foam sitting on top of the antenna traces.

There isn't any detailed information to confirm what the material is made of, but it appears to be your standard conductive foam fare, which means this is totally plausible as an at-home repair job that won't even negate your warranty if you decide to try it.

If you are having connection issues with your left Joy-Con controller and don't want to wait for Nintendo to repair it, why not try sticking a piece of conductive foam in there? You can get a large sheet of it for fairly cheap, and you won't have to remove anything or permanently fix anything to your controller just to try it out. If it works, great! If it doesn't, you can always follow up with a call to Nintendo.

Did you try this trick at home? If so, let us know how it turned out in the comments. We'd love to know if it's as easy as it sounds.

If you haven't felt the absolute horror of seeing some exposed wire from your MacBook charging cable, then consider yourself lucky.

I've owned quite a number of MacBooks over the years, and every time I end up going through one or two charging cables. Am I harsh with them? Maybe. Do I bandage them up and try to make them last forever and ever? You bet your bottom dollar, I do.

Sure, you can easily go and pick up a new charging cable, but that costs a lot of money. So what's a less expensive – yet effective – solution? We're here to help!

Here are a number of different ways you can fix the fraying charging cable of your MacBook!

• Flex Tape
• Liquid Tape
• Sugru
• Electrical Tape

Flex Tape

If you're looking for a super strong, super durable, relatively easy to use and inexpensive tool to fix your MacBook's charging cable (especially if the damage is to the cord itself!) then take a peek at the very appropriately named Flex Tape!

Designed as a thick yet flexible rubberized, waterproof tape that can easily twist and conform to almost any shape or object, Flex Tape acts as an additional layer of protection against any unwanted zaps from your charger's exposed cord. The material it's made with is also environmentally friendly and can can survive a wide-range of temperatures and outside conditions.

While you won't need much Flex Tape to fix your cable (unless you're like my boyfriend who has a foot of exposed wire he refuses to do anything about), having this stuff on hand just seems like a handy fix-it tool, especially when it comes to your MacBook.

You can pick up Flex Tape in large (4" x 5'), jumbo (8" x 5'), or giant (12" x 10'), and the best part? You can choose between black or white so it seamlessly blends into your charging cable!

See at Flex Seal

Liquid Tape

While tape is an okay fixer-upper tool for your MacBook charging cable, liquid tape has your bases taped down a lil' bit better.

Designed to essentially be liquid electrical tape, this fast-drying adhesive is built to dry to a rubber based coating that still allows your cable to move flexibly and freely while keeping its wires secure and under wraps.

While you can pick up Liquid Tape in black, red, or green, look for the Liquid Tape in white to have it blend in better with your charging cable.

See at Amazon

Sugru

Sugru's mantra says it all: Stick it. Shape it. It turns into rubber.

The rest is really up to you!

Sugru acts as a super durable Playdoh of sorts. A mouldable glue, this adhesive putty is designed for fixing, making, and improving your things: and it's the perfect thing for patching a hole in a MacBook charger.

The Sugru is made to stick to almost anything and once it's been cured, can even bend and move like the plastic coating on your cable. Once you get your Sugru, the putty will stay good for around 13 months before it gets difficult to mold and work with.

You can buy the Sugru in a ton of fun colors, including red, brown, silver, blue, orange, green, pink, and yellow, or you could stick to the standard black and white.

Oh! And did we mention that they make their own tech-specific fit-it kit called the Rebel Tech Kit? You're welcome!

See at Sugru

Electrical Tape

If you're really in a pinch to fix up your MacBook charging cable, then dig out an old roll of electrical tape and get tapin'!

It may not look like the prettiest DIY fixer-up job for your cord, but it totally does the trick – at least for a little while. Electrical tape isn't the easiest thing to work with, and so it may punch and peel, even leaving a residue behind if you decide you want it off.

The best part about electrical tape? It's cheap, so you can use as much of it as possible without feeling super guilty. Huzzuh!

See at Amazon

Or when all else fails…

Talk to Apple (or just pick up a new cable)

If you're still under warranty on your MacBook or have AppleCare, you may be able to get a replacement cable for free, depending on the type of damage. If you can't, well... you may have to suck it up and buy a new cable.

It's a pain (we know), but it's better than risking a fire-hazard or a big nasty shock.

• MagSafe 2 Charger - See at Amazon
• USB-C Charge Cable - See at Amazon

How have you fixed your fraying MacBook charging cable?

Are you the type of person to hold onto your busted cable and keep performing Frankenstein-like surgeries on it to keep it alive? Or would you rather say "screw it" and buy a brand new cable?

Let us know how you've fixed your fraying fiascos in the comments below!

If you've dropped, smashed, or otherwise chipped your iPhone SE's screen, you likely want to repair it. There are several ways to repair or replace a broken iPhone screen, depending on your monetary situation and free time. Here are a couple, in order of easiest (and cheapest) to most complicated.

Buy a screen protector

If your screen is shattered but relatively intact, you can put off a potentially-costly repair by sealing the broken pieces behind a screen protector. I'll note that this is a temporary measure, and one I generally recommend for screens that are cracked, but not completely destroyed — it can keep the cracks from worsening or pieces of the screen from falling apart, but eventually you'll need to replace the screen.

• See at Amazon
• Best screen protectors for iPhone SE
• How to replace a tempered glass screen protector

Make an appointment with Apple

The iPhone SE screen has complicated technology embedded within it, including the Touch ID sensor, Home Button, and FaceTime front-facing camera. As such, a cracked iPhone screen can be a bit of a hassle to replace.

Luckily, if you've purchased AppleCare+ with your iPhone, a screen repair is simple and inexpensive — assuming you have the time to send it to Apple. It's just $29 to fix a broken iPhone SE screen, and any Apple Store or Apple Authorized Service Representative store you visit has the equipment necessary to properly remove, replace, and re-calibrate your iPhone for Touch ID.

Even if you don't have AppleCare+, repairs through Apple are often cheaper than attempting to buy and repair the screen yourself: An out of warranty iPhone SE repair is $129. (This is also why I always recommend picking up AppleCare+ when you buy a new iPhone.)

Start a repair request

Repair it yourself

In past years, I would have recommended this option above making an appointment with Apple, but as the iPhone screen has gotten more complicated — and expensive, a home-brew repair can often hinder your device from full operability.

As for pricing, it varies: If you're replacing an iPhone SE screen under the AppleCare+ warranty, Apple's option is much cheaper; if you're out of warranty, however, you'll likely be able to get a much better price buying third-party components. An iPhone SE screen repair currently costs around $50 between the screen and tools. As such, if you're out of warranty and feel comfortable opening up your iPhone yourself, you'll save quite a bit of money using this method.

If you want a detailed guide to repairing your iPhone SE, we recommend watching JerryRigEverything's how-to explainer below.

Questions?

Have any questions about repairing your iPhone's screen? Have a better option? Let us know below.

If you've dropped, smashed, or otherwise chipped your iPhone 6s or 6s Plus screen, you likely want to repair it. There are several ways to repair or replace a broken iPhone screen, depending on your monetary situation and free time. Here are a couple, in order of easiest (and cheapest) to most complicated.

Buy a screen protector

If your screen is shattered but relatively intact, you can put off a potentially costly repair by sealing the broken pieces behind a screen protector. I'll note that this is a temporary measure, and one I generally recommend for screens that are cracked, but not completely destroyed — it can keep the cracks from worsening or pieces of the screen from falling apart, but eventually you'll need to replace the screen.

• See at Amazon
• Best iPhone 6s and 6s Plus Accessories
• How to replace a tempered glass screen protector

Make an appointment with Apple

The iPhone 6s and 6s Plus screens have complicated technology embedded within them, including the Touch ID sensor, Home Button, 3D Touch display, and FaceTime front-facing camera. As such, a cracked iPhone screen can be a real hassle to replace.

Luckily, if you purchased AppleCare+ with your iPhone, a screen repair is simple and inexpensive — assuming you have the time to send it to Apple. It's just $29 to fix a broken iPhone 6s or 6s Plus screen, and any Apple Store or Apple Authorized Service Representative store you visit has the equipment necessary to properly remove, replace, and re-calibrate your iPhone for Touch ID.

Even if you don't have AppleCare+, repairs through Apple are often cheaper than attempting to buy and repair the screen yourself: An out of warranty iPhone 6s repair is $129, while an iPhone 6s Plus repair is $149. (This is also why I always recommend picking up AppleCare+ when you buy a new iPhone.)

Start a repair request

Repair it yourself

In past years, I would have recommended this option above making an appointment with Apple, but as the iPhone screen has gotten more complicated — and expensive, a home-brew repair can often hinder your device from full operability.

As for pricing, it varies: If you're replacing an iPhone 6s and 6s Plus screen under the AppleCare+ warranty, Apple's option is much cheaper; if you're out of warranty, however, you may be able to get a slightly better price buying third-party components. An iPhone 6s screen repair currently will run you about $130 between the screen and tools, while an iPhone 6s Plus screen repair costs $140-$150.

As the iPhone 6s ages and screen prices go down, this may change, but for now, I'd only recommend a screen replacement if you don't have an Apple Store near you and feel comfortable repairing your own devices.

If you want a detailed guide on repairing an iPhone 6s and 6s Plus, you can watch JerryRigEverything's how-to explainer below.

Questions?

Have any questions about repairing your iPhone's screen? Have a better option? Let us know below.

The iPhone 7 Plus's screen is beautiful, to be sure — but that glass beauty can break if dropped, smashed, or otherwise chipped against similarly-hard surfaces. Some breaks are worse than others — I've gotten by with a slightly-chipped 7 Plus screen for a month — but if you completely smash your screen, you're probably in need of a screen repair. When you crack your screen, it also destroys your iPhone's water resistance; if you're used to keeping it near water, you'll definitely want to fix your device.

There are several ways to repair or replace a broken iPhone screen, depending on your monetary situation and free time. Here are a couple, in order of easiest (and cheapest) to most complicated.

Repair it yourself

In past years, I would have recommended this option above making an appointment with Apple, but as the iPhone screen has gotten more complicated — and expensive, a home-brew repair can often hinder your device from full operability. (You won't be able to re-calibrate your screen for water resistance, for instance.) It's also now pricier than either the AppleCare+ repair or out of warranty repair, with a screen replacement and toolset averaging around $230.

As the iPhone 7 ages and screen prices go down, this may change, but for now, I find it hard to recommend users go this route. If you're really curious about repairing an iPhone 7 or 7 Plus, however, you can watch JerryRigEverything's how-to explainer below.

Questions?

Have any questions about repairing your iPhone's screen? Have a better option? Let us know below.

Apple has launched a new repair program for iPhone 6 Plus owners who are experiencing problems using their Multi-Touch screens. "Touch disease" — a coined term some people use to describe the issue — has been known to cause several issues with iPhone 6 Plus screens including a gray flickering box at the top of the screen, trouble interacting with the screen, or even a complete failure of the touchscreen.

Apple#mn_e's statement on the new Multi-Touch Repair Program for iPhone 6 Plus is as follows:

If you have an iPhone 6 Plus with AppleCare+, this won't affect you, but customers whose warranties have expired or never had a warranty, will not have to pay the standard repair price of $329. On top of that, if you already paid for a repair for this issue Apple is offering reimbursements.

This program is only for the iPhone 6 Plus and not any other models as of right now. For more information, including how to go about getting a repair done visit the Multi-Touch Repair Program for iPhone 6 Plus on apple.com.

If you're having trouble charging your iPhone 5, it's possible that either liquid came into contact with your charge port, or one of the pins are broken. Other symptoms of a bad dock connector can include iTunes not recognizing your iPhone when it's plugged into the computer. If you're experiencing any of these symptoms and aren't quite ready to fork over the cash for a new iPhone just yet, we can walk you through how to repair your iPhone on your own. Follow along for step by step instructions on replacing the Lightning dock in your iPhone 5!

What you need to DIY repair a broken dock connector in an iPhone 5

You'll need some tools and parts in order to repair your iPhone 5. iMore recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like iFixYouri. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• Replacement dock connector
• Suction cup
• 5-point security screwdriver
• Standard #000 Phillips screwdriver
• Spudger tool
• Razor blade
• iSesamo Opening tool

Step 1: Power off your iPhone 5

Before beginning any repair, always power your iPhone down completely using the Slide to power off option. Easy enough right?

Step 2: Remove the front screen assembly

• To begin, use your security screwdriver to remove the two screws in the bottom of your iPhone 5 that sit on either side of the dock.

• Now place your suction cup above the Home button and gently pry up from the bottom. Take care not to pull the entire screen off as the top of the screen is still attached by several cables. You only want to release the bottom portion.

• Once the screen is free, swing up the display assembly so you can get to the shield that is holding the cables in place.

• Using your ##000 screwdriver to remove the three screws holding the display shield down. Set the shield aside and remember not to mix up the screws.

• Now use your spudger tool to pry up the three cables that attach the display to the board. After you do so, the display should be free from the device. As a side note, you can only see two of the cables (as marked in the photo below) as the third is underneath. Most of the time the third one simply pops up on its own when you remove the first two. You may need to free it but most likely, it'll come up on its own. The second photo below shows its location on the board for reference.

• Set the device aside once the display is free.

Alternate method: If you're having issues pulling the screen up with a suction cup, you may insert a razor blade on the outer edge of either screw hold and pry upwards slightly. This method gives you enough clearance to stick your spudger tool underneath and release the screen. I recommend this method if your hands aren't as steady or you're afraid you may pull too hard and damage a cable.

Step 3: Remove the battery

I'll preface this section by saying the plastic battery tabs to pull to release them are useless. They break off and/or bend the battery. You can try that method but I suggest following my instructions below instead.

• Start by removing the two screws shown in the photo below. This shield covers the battery connector itself. Use your #000 screwdriver for this.

• Now use your spudger tool in order to gently pry the connector off the board as shown.

• We are now ready to remove the battery, which is the hardest part and must be done with extreme caution as to prevent puncturing it or causing damage to the logic board. I use the iSesamo opening tool for battery removal because it's pliable and that means it's more delicate. You may use the flat end of a spudger tool if you'd like but I've found them to break off rather easily.
• In order to remove the battery, start at the top left corner and put your opening tool between the casing and the battery. Gently start lifting upwards. You should hear adhesive start to crack. Now slowly move your tool around the left side of the battery and gently pry upwards a little at a time. Each time you should hear more adhesive cracking. Just apply pressure evenly and move your pry tool each time.

• By the time you get to the bottom the adhesive should be nearly free, or free enough for you to grab hold of the battery and carefully break the rest and remove it.

It is important while performing the steps above that you're careful to not puncture or bend the battery. Just take your time and you'll get there. Don't rush and don't force it.

Step 4: Remove the Lightning dock connector assembly

• Remove the dock connector shield by removing the 1 screw holding it in place. Use your #000 Phillips screwdriver for this.

• Next pry up the cable using your spudger tool. You can also pry up the round connector cable which is found a little further down on the logic board and is pictured below.

• Start removing the dock itself by using your #000 Phillips screwdriver to remove the seven screws shown below that hold the dock assembly in place. Be very careful to make sure you know where these screws came from. Do not get them mixed up as they are all different shapes and sizes.

• Turn your iPhone 5 around on the table so you can gently wedge the flat end of your spudger tool between the headphone jack and rear casing. Very carefully pry up until it starts to loosen.

• Now do the same thing under the Lightning dock but take note of cables running underneath it so you don't tear them.

• Keep working your way around the bottom until you get to the part under the loud speaker assembly. Here pry in between the cable and loud speaker instead. Take care not to flex the logic board in any way.

• You should now be able to slide the loud speaker assembly out from underneath the logic board. Carefully set it to the left as it is still attached. Do not attempt to tear it off.

• Now focus on removing the rest of the Lightning dock cable from the back of the rear casing, again being mindful of the logic board's position.
• The dock assembly should now be free from the back casing. Just take care not to rip any cables or wires that may still be hanging on by bits of glue and adhesive. Be sure to break them first.

Step 5: Separate the loud speaker assembly from the dock assembly

• The loud speaker assembly is attached to the dock assembly by a single cable. The only thing connecting it is a bit of adhesive. Use your spudger tool to separate the speaker from the dock at the point shown in the photo below.

• Now place the loud speaker assembly on the new dock connector assembly. Take care to pay attention to the orientation of the contact point so you know you're putting it on correctly.

Step 6: Replace the dock connector assembly

• Before beginning to replace the dock assembly, take note of the four silver rings that sit around the screw threads in the back casing. They may have moved or gotten relocated during disassembly. If they have gotten shuffled about, carefully place them back around the four screw threads before continuing.

• Next be sure to transfer any rubber gaskets that may not come on your new dock assembly. For instance, the mic has a gasket over it that you'll need to pull off of the old dock connector and place on the new one.
• The best place to start replacing the dock connector assembly is with the Lightning dock itself. Since it's in the center, it makes for a nice way to assure everything is lined up perfectly. Go ahead and use your #000 Phillips screwdriver to replace three of the screws that hold the Lightning dock in place . Don't replace the bottom right screw just yet as you'll need to secure the bracket on the dock underneath it once you've laid down the rest of the dock.

• Now go ahead and secure the left side of the dock assembly and the right. Again, be very mindful of the logic board and be sure not to nick it or break it while sliding the cable and loud speaker corner underneath it.
• Once you've gotten everything lined up, go ahead and replace all the rest of the screws you initially removed. If one of them doesn't want to go in, don't force it. Instead be sure that everything is lined up correctly and re-evaluate your positioning before moving on. Go ahead and plug a Lightning cable in to be sure your dock placement is correct. If a cable doesn't want to go in, you need to re-position and try again.

• Now reconnect the round connector at the bottom of the logic board.

• Lastly, reconnect the dock connector cable and replace the shield with your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

Step 7: Replace the battery

• Carefully lay the battery back down into place. Press firmly in order to cause the adhesive to grab hold of the back casing again.

• Reconnect the battery connector by carefully lining it up and pressing firmly with your finger.
• Reposition the battery shield and use your #000 screwdriver to replace the two screws.

Step 8: Reconnect the display assembly

• Re-attach the three cables for the display back to the board of your iPhone 5.

• Carefully re-position the display shield over the cables once you're sure they are secure.
• Replace the three screws you removed previously using your ##000 screwdriver. Sometimes the top right screw is not magnetized and may be a little tricky to get back in. I normally guide it in with my finger and then use the screwdriver. Makes for an easier job.

• Now snap the display back down and into place. Be sure to line up the grooves in the top of the screen inside the frame. If you are facing resistance, do not force the display down. Make sure everything is lined up properly and that the clips in the top are aligned properly. Then try gently pressing down again.
• Replace the two screws that sit on either side of the Lightning dock using your security screwdriver.

Step 9: Test the new dock assembly

Now that your iPhone 5 is fully assembled again, it's safe to power it back on. Once it boots back up, connect it to a wall charger to make sure it charges okay. Do the same in a computer to make sure iTunes recognizes your iPhone 5. I also recommend making sure that when your iPhone 5 is plugged in, it isn't getting any hotter than it normally does during charging. If it does, it could be a faulty dock and you should request a replacement from the supplier immediately.

If you run into problems, be sure to check out our iMore mod forums for answers to commonly asked questions.

The symptoms of a broken headphone jack are similar in all models, and can include audio cutting in and out or no audio at all. In some cases, loud speaker audio won't work because your iPhone thinks headphones are plugged in when they're really not.

If any of these issues sound like something you've experienced, we'll walk you step by step through the repair process. We'll also link you to all the parts and tools you'll need to get the job done right the first time. The difficulty of a headphone jack replacement will depend on the iPhone model, but if you're up for the challenge, follow along, find your model, and let's get started!

iPhone 5s

An iPhone 5s headphone jack replacement is very similar to both the iPhone 5 and iPhone 5c. It's part of the dock assembly and comes out all as one piece. The only extra challenge you'll experience during this repair is making sure you don't damage Touch ID when you open your iPhone 5s and disconnect it from the dock assembly. As long as you keep an eye out for those little things, you'll be just fine.

• How to DIY replace the headphone jack in an iPhone 5s

iPhone 5c

The iPhone 5c is essentially an iPhone 5 with a plastic, more colorful shell. There are some internal differences you'll have to watch out for, which makes this repair slightly different. Regardless, a headphone jack replacement in an iPhone 5c is fairly straightforward and will only take about 30 to 45 minutes of your time. It's also a heck of a lot cheaper than a new iPhone.

• How to replace the headphone jack in an iPhone 5c

iPhone 5

The iPhone 5 re-located the headphone jack from the top of the iPhone all the way to the bottom. That means the repair is quite a bit different than the models that came before it. Don't worry, that's a good thing. The headphone jack in the iPhone 5 is part of the dock assembly, which is much easier to get to and replace than previous generations. It'll also resolve any issues you may be having with charging or connecting to iTunes as well.

• How to replace a broken headphone jack in an iPhone 5

iPhone 4s

The iPhone 4s headphone jack is on the same cable that controls the mute switch. So to fix a broken headphone jack, you'll have to replace the entire cable. This repair is slightly intricate but not terribly difficult for anyone with moderate to intermediate DIY skills. Just take your time and be sure not to tear any cables during the process.

• How to replace a broken headphone jack in an iPhone 4s

iPhone 4

The headphone jack in the GSM iPhone 4 is part of the volume and mute switch cable, making it slightly different than the iPhone 4s. This is a slightly intricate repair and you'll have to take care not to snag or tear any cables. I'd recommend attempting it only if your DIY skills are moderate to intermediate. And as long as you take your time and don't rush, you'll get through just fine.

Remember the iPhone 4 came in two varieties, GSM and CDMA. What carrier you have will determine which guide you need to follow. The internals are different. If your iPhone 4 contains a SIM slot on the side, you want the GSM guide. If it does not (meaning you have Verizon), use the CDMA guide instead.

• How to replace the headphone jack in a GSM iPhone 4
• How to replace the headphone jack in a CDMA iPhone 4

More DIY help

We're always adding more DIY guides and walkthroughs as new iPhones come out. You can check out our DIY repair section for all of our other guides. If you can't find a guide you're looking for, would like to suggest one, or have a question before, during, or after a repair, feel free to email me directly!

• All iPhone DIY repair guides

Have an iPhone 5 with a broken or jammed headphone jack? If you're within your warranty period, just head to your local Apple Store to swap your device for a new one. However, if your warranty has expired and you aren't ready for a new iPhone yet, we can help you DIY repair the headphone jack for a fraction of the cost. If you're experiencing crackling audio, no audio at all when headphones are plugged in, or if something's stuck in the headphone jack, this guide is for you. Follow along and we'll not only walk you through the repair step by step, but link you to all the parts and tools you need as well!

Note: The headphone jack assembly on the iPhone 5 is actually part of the dock assembly. So in order to replace the headphone jack, you'll be replacing the actual Lightning dock as a whole. This means if you're experiencing any other issues such as finicky charging, those issues will be resolved as well.

Parts and tools needed

You'll need some tools and parts in order to repair your iPhone 5. iMore recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like iFixYouri. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• Replacement dock connector
• Suction cup
• 5-point security screwdriver
• Standard #000 Phillips screwdriver
• Spudger tool
• Razor blade
• iSesamo Opening tool

Power off your iPhone 5

Before beginning any repair, always power your iPhone down completely using the Slide to power off option. Easy enough right?

Remove the front screen assembly

• To begin, use your security screwdriver to remove the two screws in the bottom of your iPhone 5 that sit on either side of the dock.

• Now place your suction cup above the Home button and gently pry up from the bottom. Take care not to pull the entire screen off as the top of the screen is still attached by several cables. You only want to release the bottom portion.

• Once the screen is free, swing up the display assembly so you can get to the shield that is holding the cables in place.

• Using your ##000 screwdriver to remove the three screws holding the display shield down. Set the shield aside and remember not to mix up the screws.

• Now use your spudger tool to pry up the three cables that attach the display to the board. After you do so, the display should be free from the device. As a side note, you can only see two of the cables (as marked in the photo below) as the third is underneath. Most of the time the third one simply pops up on its own when you remove the first two. You may need to free it but most likely, it'll come up on its own. The second photo below shows its location on the board for reference.

• Set the device aside once the display is free.

Alternate method: If you're having issues pulling the screen up with a suction cup, you may insert a razor blade on the outer edge of either screw hold and pry upwards slightly. This method gives you enough clearance to stick your spudger tool underneath and release the screen. I recommend this method if your hands aren't as steady or you're afraid you may pull too hard and damage a cable.

Remove the battery

I'll preface this section by saying the plastic battery tabs to pull to release them are useless. They break off and/or bend the battery. You can try that method but I suggest following my instructions below instead.

• Start by removing the two screws shown in the photo below. This shield covers the battery connector itself. Use your #000 screwdriver for this.

• Now use your spudger tool in order to gently pry the connector off the board as shown.

• We are now ready to remove the battery, which is the hardest part and must be done with extreme caution as to prevent puncturing it or causing damage to the logic board. I use the iSesamo opening tool for battery removal because it's pliable and that means it's more delicate. You may use the flat end of a spudger tool if you'd like but I've found them to break off rather easily.
• In order to remove the battery, start at the top left corner and put your opening tool between the casing and the battery. Gently start lifting upwards. You should hear adhesive start to crack. Now slowly move your tool around the left side of the battery and gently pry upwards a little at a time. Each time you should hear more adhesive cracking. Just apply pressure evenly and move your pry tool each time.

• By the time you get to the bottom the adhesive should be nearly free, or free enough for you to grab hold of the battery and carefully break the rest and remove it.

It is important while performing the steps above that you don't puncture or bend the battery. Just take your time and you'll get there. Don't rush and don't force it.

Remove the Lightning dock connector assembly

• Remove the dock connector shield by removing the 1 screw holding it in place. Use your #000 Phillips screwdriver for this.

• Next pry up the cable using your spudger tool. You can also pry up the round connector cable which is found a little further down on the logic board and is pictured below.

• Start removing the dock itself by using your #000 Phillips screwdriver to remove the seven screws shown below that hold the dock assembly in place. Be very careful to make sure you know where these screws came from. Do not get them mixed up as they are all different shapes and sizes.

• Turn your iPhone 5 around on the table so you can gently wedge the flat end of your spudger tool between the headphone jack and rear casing. Very carefully pry up until it starts to loosen.

• Now do the same thing under the Lightning dock but take note of cables running underneath it so you don't tear them.

• Keep working your way around the bottom until you get to the part under the loud speaker assembly. Here pry in between the cable and loud speaker instead. Take care not to flex the logic board in any way.

• You should now be able to slide the loud speaker assembly out from underneath the logic board. Carefully set it to the left as it is still attached. Do not attempt to tear it off.

• Now focus on removing the rest of the Lightning dock cable from the back of the rear casing, again being mindful of the logic board's position.
• The dock assembly should now be free from the back casing. Just take care not to rip any cables or wires that may still be hanging on by bits of glue and adhesive. Be sure to break them first.

Separate the loudspeaker assembly from the dock assembly

• The loudspeaker assembly is attached to the dock assembly by a single cable. The only thing connecting it is a bit of adhesive. Use your spudger tool to separate the speaker from the dock at the point shown in the photo below.

• Now place the loudspeaker assembly on the new dock connector assembly. Take care to pay attention to the orientation of the contact point so you know you're putting it on correctly.

Replace the dock & headphone jack assembly

• Before beginning to replace the dock assembly, take note of the four silver rings that sit around the screw threads in the back casing. They may have moved or gotten relocated during disassembly. If they have gotten shuffled about, carefully place them back around the four screw threads before continuing.

• Next be sure to transfer any rubber gaskets that may not come on your new dock assembly. For instance, the mic has a gasket over it that you'll need to pull off of the old dock connector and place on the new one.
• The best place to start replacing the dock connector assembly is with the Lightning dock itself. Since it's in the center, it makes for a nice way to assure everything is lined up perfectly. Go ahead and use your #000 Phillips screwdriver to replace three of the screws that hold the Lightning dock in place . Don't replace the bottom right screw just yet as you'll need to secure the bracket on the dock underneath it once you've laid down the rest of the dock.

• Now go ahead and secure the left side of the dock assembly and the right. Again, be very mindful of the logic board and be sure not to nick it or break it while sliding the cable and loud speaker corner underneath it.
• Once you've gotten everything lined up, go ahead and replace all the rest of the screws you initially removed. If one of them doesn't want to go in, don't force it. Instead be sure that everything is lined up correctly and re-evaluate your positioning before moving on. Go ahead and plug a Lightning cable in to be sure your dock placement is correct. If a cable doesn't want to go in, you need to re-position and try again.

• Now reconnect the round connector at the bottom of the logic board.

• Lastly, reconnect the dock connector cable and replace the shield with your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

This is a good time to plug in a pair of headphones to ensure that the dock and headphone jack are lined up correctly. Realizing this now is much easier than realizing it once you've got your iPhone 5 already assembled. Don't force the headphones in. If they don't go in, re-align the dock and headphone jack again.

Reinstall the battery

• Carefully lay the battery back down into place. Press firmly in order to cause the adhesive to grab hold of the back casing again.

• Reconnect the battery connector by carefully lining it up and pressing firmly with your finger.
• Reposition the battery shield and use your #000 screwdriver to replace the two screws.

Reconnect the display assembly

• Re-attach the three cables for the display back to the board of your iPhone 5.

• Carefully re-position the display shield over the cables once you're sure they are secure.
• Replace the three screws you removed previously using your ##000 screwdriver. Sometimes the top right screw is not magnetized and may be a little tricky to get back in. I normally guide it in with my finger and then use the screwdriver. Makes for an easier job.

• Now snap the display back down and into place. Be sure to line up the grooves in the top of the screen inside the frame. If you are facing resistance, do not force the display down. Make sure everything is lined up properly and that the clips in the top are aligned properly. Then try gently pressing down again.
• Replace the two screws that sit on either side of the Lightning dock using your security screwdriver.

Test the new dock & headphone jack assembly

Once you've completely reassembled your iPhone 5, it's safe to turn it back on. You'll want to test the following functions in order to make sure the replacement parts are working as they should:

• Plug headphones in and play audio, make sure it sounds good and plays as it should
• Play audio over the loud speaker to make sure your iPhone passes the signal from headphones to speaker as it should
• Charge your iPhone and make sure it doesn't get too warm, if it does, remove the replacement part immediately and swap it out
• Make sure iTunes recognizes your iPhone 5 when plugged in
• Make a call and make sure everyone can hear you through headphones, loud speaker, and as you'd normally talk through your iPhone

If everything checks out okay, you're good to go again!

Questions?

If you run into problems, be sure to check out our iMore forums for answers to commonly asked questions.

There are lots of things that can go wrong with the dock connector in your iPhone. Bad chargers can cause pins to break off, water or moisture can leave your iPhone unable to charge, among many other issues that could arise. No matter what the issue is, replacing the dock connector assembly should fix the problem. A DIY iPhone repair will also cost you far less than the price of a new iPhone. So if you think it's worth a shot, follow along and we'll walk you through fixing your dock connector step by step!

How to replace the dock connector in an iPhone 5s

The iPhone 5s introduced Touch ID to the iPhone and therefore changed the dock assembly, but only slightly. A dock replacement in an iPhone 5s is no more difficult than its predecessors and can still be done in under an hour. If your iPhone 5s isn't charging, you're experiencing issues with the headphone jack, or your computer won't recognize your iPhone, you most likely need a dock replacement.

• How to replace the dock connector in an iPhone 5s

How to replace the dock connector in an iPhone 5c

The iPhone 5c is very much like the iPhone 5 in terms of specifications and performance. Internally however there are a few difference when it comes to DIY repair. That being said, a dock replacement isn't horribly difficult and only requires about an hour of your time, maybe less if you're DIY inclined. It'll cost you less than $40 all in and can solve issues such as your iPhone not charging, headphone jack not working, or your computer not recognizing your iPhone 5c. Obviously the latter you'll want to rule out software by performing a restore. If it still doesn't work, we can walk you through every single step of replacing the dock component on your own.

• How to replace the Lightning dock in your iPhone 5c

How to replace the dock connector in an iPhone 5

The iPhone 5 brought with it the first radical change to the way we charge our iPhones. It dropped the standard 30-pin dock that Apple had been using for many years in iPhones, iPads, and classic iPods. The Lightning dock brought with it a charger that could be inserted either way making it more convenient. It also has less moving parts and pins in the actual assembly. Unfortunately, that doesn't mean debris buildup can't cause corrosion or other damage. If your iPhone 5 won't recognize a charger at all and you've tried numerous cables and outlets, it may be time to replace the Lightning dock.

• How to fix a broken charge port on an iPhone 5

How to replace the dock connector in an iPhone 4S

The dock connector in the iPhone 4S is actually not that hard to replace. While we haven't seen many defects with the iPhone 4S dock connector related to actual charging functionality, we have seen sound issues arise that can range from system sounds not working but music will actually play when in the music app. There can also be several variants of sound issues involved. The issue isn't actually the loud speaker in our experience, but the dock connector assembly.

Whether you've got sound issues related to the dock connector or something else such as charging issues or broken pins, a new dock connector replacement will solve all of the above.

• How to replace the dock connector in an iPhone 4S

How to replace the dock connector in an AT&T/GSM iPhone 4

The iPhone 4 dock connector replacement part is very similar to it's iPhone 4S sibling. The repair is actually performed very similarly. Issues with the iPhone 4 dock connector can range from not being able to charge to moisture and liquid damage, to not registering to your computer, and more. Many users have also reported that after so much time has passed, the dock connector becomes loose and when plugging in a cable, you'll have to wiggle it around in order for it to register a charge. A replacement will take care of all of this.

While the iPhone 4S may have more of a reputation for sound issues caused by a faulty or defective dock connector assembly, the iPhone 4 isn't completely immune either so before you assume it's the loud speaker, make sure it isn't the dock connector either.

• How to replace the dock connector in an AT&T/GSM iPhone 4

How to replace the dock connector in a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4

Much like the GSM/AT&T iPhone 4, the same issues can arise with the Verizon or Sprint variant. Even though you're experiencing the same issues, the CDMA and GSM iPhone 4's do have internal differences. Not only that, the part is completely different when it comes to the dock connector assembly.

Issues can range from the inability to charge to your computer or other external device not recognizing your iPhone 4. We don't see nearly as many sound issues related to the dock connector in the CDMA model, but it can happen.

• How to replace the dock connector in a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4

How to replace the dock connector in an iPhone 3G or iPhone 3GS

The iPhone 3G and iPhone 3GS have been around for several years now but it doesn't mean they aren't still perfectly good devices. Symptoms of a bad dock connector in the iPhone 3G or iPhone 3GS can range from the inability to take a charge to pins being broken off causing issues with sound output or device recognition on a computer.

It's also good to make sure that the battery isn't the issue. Considering the iPhone 3G and iPhone 3GS have been around for so long, a battery replacement at this point probably isn't a bad idea as well. Even if you replace both the battery and the dock connector at the same time, it'll still cost you far less than a new iPhone.

• How to replace the dock connector in an iPhone 3G or iPhone 3GS

More DIY help and resources

Whether you just aren't sure if your dock connector is the issue or you run into issus during the course of a repair, we've got lots of resources that can help answer your questions. Our jailbreak, unlock, DIY, and mod forums are a great place to start. If you still can't find the answers you're looking for or would like to make a suggestion on another DIY repair we don't currently have a guide for, you can always email us as well!

See also:

• iPhone DIY repair: Ultimate guide to fixing stuck or unresponsive power buttons
• iPhone, iPad, and iPod touch DIY repair: Ultimate guide to replacing broken screens
• iPhone DIY repair: Ultimate guide to replacing broken or unresponsive Home buttons
• iPhone DIY repair: Ultimate guide to replacing the battery in your iPhone
• All DIY repairs and how to's

Originally published, June 2014. Updated, March 2014

This scenario replays almost every time I go to work at the local Apple retailer: A customer walks in with an older Mac that isn't working right. It happens sooner or later with just about any reasonably complicated device you own, whether it's your car, your washing machine, TV set, or even your Mac. So what's the answer?

It ultimately depends on a few factors — and price isn't the only thing to consider. How much faster will a new machine be? How have your needs changed since you first bought the Mac you're bringing in for repair? How much longer do you plan on keeping it anyway?

Labor

If your Mac is out of warranty, the first thing to know is that most places are going to charge you just to look at it. Our standard fee is $125.95 — it's a flat labor rate we charge regardless of how many hours the tech actually works on your device. That price will vary from business to business.

Parts

There's also the question of what needs to get fixed. If you've spilled a soda on the keyboard of your Mac laptop, for example, it can vary depending on the model and the severity of the damage. For some Macs it might mean replacing the entire "top case," which integrates the keyboard, trackpad and battery. The main logic board might have to be replaced, which is big money. Or perhaps just the MagSafe board needs to get pulled.

I see a lot of older Macs — five years, maybe older — come in with problems with their hard drives. Hard drives spin continuously when they're powered, and eventually those spindle motors and the read/write heads wear out. The good news is that hard drives are cheap to replace, and putting an SSD in place of a regular hard disk can often lead to dramatic performance improvements. The bad news is that if you don't have a backup, you may be facing lost data or a lengthy and expensive process of file recovery.

One common repair we have in the store is a screen replacement for a laptop. It's usually a younger user — college-aged or younger — and there's usually an accident or mishap to explain the damage: Leaving a heavy object on the computer, dropping it off a desk, falling asleep with it on the bed and having it crash to the floor. Screens are ridiculously costly for MacBooks — often almost half the price of the device. One way to cut that cost is to ship your laptop out to a mail-order repair service like iResQ. That's what I did when I needed to replace the screen on an '09 white MacBook. I saved hundreds and have been satisfied with the replacement screen.

Usability

There's a point of diminishing return when you fix a computer, as well, where you're simply not going to see any more performance or usability enhancements. Where fixing it may let you limp along for a while longer, but ultimately won't improve things. In those cases, it's almost always a good idea to retire your device.

My general rule of thumb is that if the repair costs are going to equal or be greater than half the cost of buying a new computer, I'll try to talk the customer into replacing the computer instead. At that point you get a brand new computer that works fast and efficiently, and you get the added benefit of a full warranty.

Just remember that neither Apple's standard warranty nor AppleCare cover accidental damage, so think twice before you decide to take a nap with your MacBook Pro beside you, as one of my recent customers did.

• Is AppleCare worth it for your MacBook?

Not being able to listen to music, podcasts, and other kinds of audio is a complete bummer. Not only that, if your iPhone thinks headphones are plugged in when they aren't, a broken headphone jack can mess with sound through the speaker too. Other symptoms could include crackling or audio cutting in and out sporadically. If any of this sounds like something you're experiencing, a DIY iPhone repair can not only save the day, if you're out of warranty, it'll cost a heck of a lot less than a new iPhone.

Note: The headphone jack in the iPhone 5s is actually part of the dock assembly. This means you'll be replacing the entire bottom dock assembly in order to restore functionality.

What you need to DIY replace a broken iPhone 5s headphone jack port

You'll need some tools and parts in order to repair your iPhone 5s. iMore recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like iFixYouri. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• Replacement iPhone 5s dock
• Suction cup
• 5-point security screwdriver
• Standard #000 Phillips screwdriver
• Spudger tool
• Razor blade
• iSesamo Opening tool

1. Power off your iPhone 5s

Before performing any repair on any device, always remember to power it off. Simply hold down on the Power button until you see Slide to Power off. One you're sure your iPhone 5s is turned off, proceed to the next section.

2. Remove the two security screws on both sides of the dock connector

There are two security screws that secure your device's screen to its frame, and they sit on each side of the dock connector. Use your 5-point security screwdriver to remove them. They are both the same size, so it's okay if you mix them up.

3. Remove the display assembly

1. Place your suction cup slightly above the Home button assembly and secure it to the screen.

2. Holding the iPhone in place with one hand, gently pull upwards on the suction cup until you free the bottom of the screen. Do NOT pull up all the way at this point, as the cable that runs to the Touch ID sensor is still connected. You only want to separate the screen about an inch at this point.

3. Now that you have a clear view of the cables, use the pointed edge of your spudger tool in order to carefully remove the metal shield covering the Touch ID cable.

4. Make sure you don't lose the metal guard that covers the Touch ID connector.

5. Again, use the pointed edge of your spudger tool in order to disconnect Touch ID.

6. You can now safely swing the display up in order to see where it is connected to the board.
7. Remove the four screws holding down the shield that covers the display cables. To do this, use your #000 screwdriver.

8. Once all four screws are removed, carefully remove the shield and set it aside.

9. Now use your spudger tool in order to remove the three cables shown in the image below. You'll need to remove the two off to the far right in order to reveal the third and final cable, which sits below them.

10. The display assembly should now be free from the body of the phone. Go ahead and set the display assembly aside.

*Note: I recommend the suction cup method here, but if you can't get a firm grip with a suction cup, you can use a razor blade or the iSesamo opening tool. Carefully work your way around the bottom of the phone between the frame and display assembly with a razor blade or the iSesamo Opening Tool until you can gently pry up the screen using the flat end of your spudger tool. We recommend using plastic razor blades if you can find them, since they won't cause damage to the finish of the iPhone's frame.

4. Disconnect the battery

1. Remove the two screws holding down the battery cable using your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

2. Gently lift the battery shield out of your iPhone 5s and carefully set it aside.

3. Use your spudger tool to carefully pry up the battery cable.

This is as far as you need to go. It isn't necessary to completely remove the battery, but it's always a good idea to disconnect it before replacing any components. This prevents any shorts from happening if the Power button accidentally gets pushed during the course of a repair.

5. Remove the loudspeaker assembly

1. Remove the three screws outlined in the photo below using your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

2. Use the flat end of your spudger tool to lift up the right portion of the loudspeaker, as shown in the photo below. Just don't attempt to completely remove it.

3. Carefully use your fingers to maneuver the loudspeaker out of your iPhone's housing, taking note of the caution areas in the photo below.

4. Carefully examine the teeth on the bottom, as one slides underneath where the Touch ID sensor connects and the other goes underneath the bottom right of the logic board. Pay close attention to the circular antenna cable and how it sits in a small groove of the speaker assembly.

6. Replace the entire dock assembly, including headphone jack

1. Disconnect the two cables shown in the photo below using your spudger tool. One cable goes to the Lightning dock itself while the other is a round antenna cable.

2. Remove the five screws shown below that are holding the Lightning dock to the casing. Use your #000 Phillips screwdriver for this.

3. Take note of the location of each screw as they are all different sizes and are not interchangeable.
4. Starting at the top right by the cable connector, slowly start peeling back the adhesive until the cable itself is free.

5. The Lightning connector itself and the headphone jack are held in with a mild foam adhesive. You will need to pry them up slightly by using a spudger or iSesamo tool in order to separate it. Not much force is needed.

6. Flip up the rubber gasket shown in the photo below as well.

7. Now use the flat end of your spudger tool or the iSesamo opening tool to carefully pry the rest of the Lightning dock from the case.

8. Take note that there are tiny metal spacer rings that sit on the screw holds in the casing. Be careful not to lose these. You can see them in the photo below.

9. The last thing you'll need to do is transfer the Touch ID connector — which is highlighted below — to the new dock assembly. It's just held on with a bit of adhesive. Just take care not to tear any part of the Touch ID connector as doing so will cause Touch ID to fail to work, and this component can not be replaced.

10. To replace the dock connector, simply line up the rubber gasket, headphone jack, and Dock connector. Remove any adhesive backing on the new assembly before doing so.
11. Once the dock connector is fitted in place, replace the 5 screws you removed earlier and replace the earpiece speaker and the two screws holding it in place.

Once you've got the Dock connector in place, try plugging in a Lightning connector to ensure that it is lined up correctly. It also is not a bad idea to plug in a pair of headphones as well to be sure that it goes in with no resistance. This way, if something is aligned improperly, you can fix it before re-assembling the rest of the device.

If everything appears to be aligned correctly with the replacement, continue on to finish re-assembling your iPhone 5s.

7. Reconnect the battery

1. Reconnect the battery cable to the logic board.

2. Replace the battery shield and the two screws you removed earlier.

8. Replace the display assembly

1. Reconnect the three cables shown in the image below, starting with the cable to the far left, which sits underneath the other two.

2. Replace the display shield using the four screws and your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

3. Re-connect the Touch ID cable to the logic board. The easiest tool to help you do this is the pointed end of the spudger tool.

4. Replace the Touch ID shield that sits over the cable.

5. Carefully line up the top of the display into the top of the frame.
6. Snap down the display until it clicks into place.

If the display doesn't want to go back down, do NOT force it. Instead, be sure that the top is lined up correctly and that you aren't snagging any cables. There should be no resistance when snapping it back into place. If there is, you aren't lining it up correctly.

9. Replace the dock connector screws

Use your 5-point security screwdriver to replace the two dock connector screws that sit on either side of the dock.

10. Test the new dock and headphone jack

Once your iPhone 5s is completely re-assembled, not only will you need to check the headphone jack but the dock functions as well. In order to do so, complete the following tests:

• Plug your iPhone 5s into a charger and ensure it charges correctly. Monitor it for overheating.
• Plug in a pair of headphones and ensure you can hear through them.
• Turn the volume up and down with headphones plugged in and unplugged.
• Test sounds both from your ringer, loudspeaker on a call, and music or some other kind of audio.
• Listen to music or some kind of audio to ensure you don't hear any bad feedback. Also twist the headphones around in the socket to be sure that doesn't cause interference or issues.

If all of the above checks out okay, give yourself a pat on the back: You successfully fixed your iPhone 5s headphone jack!

Questions?

Let us know in the comments.

iPhone Home buttons keep getting more resilient and more reliable — on the iPhone 7, it's not even a button at all, just a software trick — but since it's the most-used button on the iPhone, it's also subject to the most wear. (And no, WD-40 is not the answer.) If your iPhone's Home button is starting to show the signs of age, and you're past the point of warranty, you may want to try a do-it-yourself (DIY) repair. Here's how!

How to replace the Home button in an iPhone 5s

The iPhone 5s was the first iOS device to add Touch ID functionality to the Home button itself. It was also the first major revision we've seen with the Home button. While its failure rates don't seem to be nearly as high as older iPhone models, it still happens. A stuck, non-responsive, or glitchy Home button can still be replaced though, but not without a few drawbacks. We can walk you through the entire process though.

• How to DIY replace the Home button in an iPhone 5s

How to replace the Home button in an iPhone 5c

The iPhone 5c was released the same time the iPhone 5s was but lacks Touch ID functionality and in most cases, it pretty much the same as the iPhone 5 specification wise. However, the repair process is slightly different. Luckily a Home button replacement is just about as easy as the iPhone 5 and only requires moderate DIY skills at most. So if your iPhone 5c is showing signs of a bad Home button, we can quickly walk you through a replacement that'll cost far less than an out of warranty repair or a new iPhone.

• How to replace the Home button in an iPhone 5c

How to fix Home button issues in an iPhone 5

While Home button failures are somewhat less common with the iPhone 5, it still happens from time to time. In the iPhone 5, the Home button assembly is attached to the back of the LCD and digitizer assembly. Since the iPhone 5 opens from the front, it makes a Home button replacement a quick and easy job. This particular repair doesn't require nearly as much DIY skill as a Home button replacement does in an iPhone 4 or iPhone 4s. Typically symptoms of a faulty iPhone 5 Home button include double taps registering as single, Siri activating when you only tap the Home button, and in rare instances, no feedback at all from the Home button.

Just like previous versions of the iPhone, the likely culprit isn't the Home button itself, but the cable that lies underneath it. Over time it wears down and just doesn't work as well as it once used to. If any of the above symptoms sound like something you're experiencing, we've got the guide you need.

• How to DIY repair a broken iPhone 5 Home button

How to fix Home button issues in an iPhone 4S

The iPhone 4S Home button assembly changed design from its iPhone 4 predecessor but it doesn't mean it's completely immune from Home button issues. It comes down to the fact that the Home button and power button are the two most used buttons on any iPhone model. The more presses, the faster a component wears down. It's just inevitable.

Unfortunately, even though Apple switched up the iPhone 4S Home button slightly in order to provide a little more support and contact with the flex cable, the actual cable assembly is still the same. Which means it's just as prone to wear down over time. Again, it's not the easiest repair in the world, but just like the iPhone 4, it can be done for extremely cheap.

If you're experiencing issues with your iPhone 4S and you just can't see getting a new iPhone just yet, a Home button replacement may be a great option.

• How to fix Home button issues in an iPhone 4S

How to fix Home button issues in an AT&T/GSM iPhone 4

The GSM variant of the iPhone 4 is notorious for Home button issues. It's probably the most affected iPhone model when it comes to Home button crankiness. The flex cable assembly that sits underneath the actual button itself wears over time and after so many depressions. This means that the cable isn't making complete contact anymore which can result is mishits and issues such as double taps registering as single taps.

If this sounds like an issue you're having, the Home button flex probably needs to be replaced. While it isn't the easiest repair to perform, it's a super cheap fix as long as you have some good patience and steady hands.

• How to fix Home button issues in an AT&T/GSM iPhone 4

How to fix Home button issues in a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4

Just like it's older GSM brother, the Verizon and Sprint (CDMA) variant of the iPhone 4 uses the exact same Home button flex cable. This means that it can be just as prone to giving out over time. The reason we probably see more GSM iPhone 4 Home button repairs is because it's been available longer than the CDMA variant.

As the CDMA version of the iPhone 4 starts to show its age, you may exhibit Home button issues. While the Home button flex is the exact same part in both the GSM and CDMA iPhone 4, the actual repair process is quite different. So if you've got a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4 with an angry Home button, you'll want to follow this guide instead.

• How to fix Home button issues in a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4

How to fix Home button issues in an iPhone 3G or iPhone 3GS

The iPhone 3G and iPhone 3GS are nowhere near as prone to Home button issues as the iPhone 4 and iPhone 4S but it doesn't mean it can't happen. If you've got an older iPhone 3G or 3GS that you just don't want to part with, whether that's due to sentimental reasons, or you just want your kids to have an iPod substitute, it's still a great device to keep laying around.

While the Home button isn't super simple to replace, the front digitizer assembly is. And it just so happens to contain the Home button assembly. You'll not only get a new Home button assembly, you'll get a brand new piece of glass and the labor is super simple. And did we mention it's also an extremely cheap fix?

• How to replace the digitizer and Home button assembly in an iPhone 3G/3GS

More DIY help

Whether you're having trouble diagnosing an issue or need help with a repair you've already started, our mod and DIY forums are a great place to find exactly that.

The Home button on your iPhone 5s provides two main functions; it serves as a way to authenticate Touch ID and more important, as a way for you to return to your Home screen, exit apps, access multitasking, and more.

If you can no longer click your Home button, or pressing it does nothing, it's possible the cable itself — or a contact on it — needs to be replaced. Here's how to do it!

What you need to know about Touch ID and Home button replacements: When the iPhone 5s was released, we quickly realized that the Touch ID sensor cable itself was tied to the logic board. And since this cable is one in the same with the Home button flex cable, replacing the cable will render Touch ID unusable. This is something you'll definitely need to keep in mind. If Home button functionality is important to you and you're okay bypassing the ability to use Touch ID in order to save some money on the cost of a new iPhone, continue on. If not, consider going to Apple or an authorized service provider for your repair.

What you need to perform a DIY Home button repair on iPhone 5s

You'll need some tools and parts in order to repair your iPhone 5s, including the replacement assembly. iMore recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like iFixYouri. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• Replacement iPhone 5s Home flex cable
• Suction cup
• 5-point security screwdriver
• Standard #000 Phillips screwdriver
• Spudger tool
• Razor blade
• iSesamo Opening tool (not necessary but awesome for prying up cables and getting under adhesive)

1. Power off your iPhone 5s

Before performing any repair on any device, always remember to power it off. Simply hold down on the Power button until you see Slide to Power off. One you're sure your iPhone 5s is turned off, proceed to the next section.

2. Remove the two security screws on both sides of the dock connector

There are two security screws that secure the screen to the frame and they sit on each side of the dock connector. Use your 5-point security screwdriver to remove them. They are both the same size so it's okay if you mix them up.

3. Remove the display display assembly

1. Place your suction cup slightly above the Home button assembly and secure it to the screen.

2. Holding the iPhone in place with one hand, gently pull upwards on the suction cup until you free the bottom of the screen but do NOT pull up all the way at this point as a cable running to the Touch ID sensor is still connected. You only want to separate the screen about an inch at this point.

3. Now that you have a clear view of the cables, use the pointed edge of your spudger tool in order to carefully remove the metal shield covering the Touch ID cable.

4. Make sure you don't lose the metal guard that covers the Touch ID connector.

5. Again, use the pointed edge of your spudger tool in order to disconnect Touch ID.

6. You can now safely swing the display up more in order to see where it is connected to the board.
7. Remove the four screws holding down the shield that covers the display cables. To do this, use your #000 screwdriver.

8. Once all four screws are removed, carefully remove the shield and set it aside.

9. Now use your spudger tool in order to remove the three cables shown in the image below. You'll need to remove the two off to the far right in order to reveal the third and final cable, which sits below them.

10. The display assembly should now be free from the body of the phone. Go ahead and set everything but the display assembly aside now.

Note: We used the suction cup method here but if you are not able to get a firm grip with a suction cup you can carefully work your way around the bottom of the phone between the frame and display assembly with a razor blade until you can gently pry up using the flat end of your spudger tool instead. We recommend using plastic razor blades if you can find them since they won't cause damage to the finish of the iPhone's frame.

4. Replace the Home button flex

1. Remove the top right screw holding the Touch ID cable in place using your #000 screwdriver. There is a tiny metal guard underneath, make sure you hold it in place so the cable doesn't spin or tear underneath it. Also make note of the orientation of this guard as you'll need to replace it again during re-assembly.

2. Once you've gotten the top screw out and set that and the guard aside, you can fold back part of the Touch ID cable in order to remove the two screws holding in the shield that sits above the Home button. Again, use your #000 screwdriver.

3. You can now remove the metal shield and set it aside.

4. Lastly, very carefully use your spudger tool to start prying up the Home button assembly which is held in with a bit of adhesive. Be careful doing this as it's easy to tear cables that run to the Touch ID sensor.

5. Once you've broken all the adhesive under the Home button gasket, the entire Home button assembly should lift out of the screen assembly, Touch ID still attached. If you're having issues removing the gasket, try heating up the button slightly to break the adhesive.

6. Now simply swap the new Home button flex in the old one's place. If you ordered the parts I've recommended above from eTech, the home button is already in place. If you ordered from elsewhere and got only a flex, you'll have to transfer the Home button and gasket over to the new flex. Just be careful not to tear the gasket while doing this.

5. Replace the display assembly

1. Reconnect the three cables shown in the image below, starting with the cable to the far left, which sits underneath the other two.

2. Replace the display shield using the four screws and your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

3. Re-connect the Touch ID cable to the logic board. The easiest tool to help you do this is the pointed end of the spudger tool.

4. Replace the Touch ID shield that sits over the cable.

5. Carefully line up the top of the display into the top of the frame.
6. Snap down the display until it clicks into place.

If the display doesn't want to go back down, do NOT force it. Instead, be sure that the top is lined up correctly and that you aren't snagging any cables. There should be no resistance when snapping it back into place. If there is, you aren't lining it up correctly.

6. Replace the dock connector screws

Use your 5-point security screwdriver to replace the two dock connector screws that sit on either side of the dock.

7. Test your iPhone 5s Home button

Once you've got your iPhone 5s fully assembled, you can go ahead and power it back on. After it boots up, perform the following steps to test the new Home button:

• Hold down the Home button and ensure Siri activates properly
• Double tap and triple tap to ensure those actions work
• Make sure you can enter and exit apps as you should be able to with a single tap
• Hold down the power and Home to make sure your iPhone 5s reboots correctly

If everything tests out okay, you're good to go.

Questions?

Let us know below.

iPhones have always been prone to Home button issues and the iPhone 5c isn't any exception. Since it's the most used button, it's not uncommon that it should wear over time. However, if you're out of warranty and not ready for a new iPhone, a replacement could cost a few hundred dollars. Luckily, a DIY Home button replacement on an iPhone 5c isn't very hard at all and only costs a couple bucks. So if your Home button isn't registering presses anymore or doesn't work as good as it should, follow along and we'll help you replace it!

The Home button itself isn't normally the problem. It's the Home button cable that wears over time and results in it becoming less responsive or failing altogether. So that's the part we'll be looking at replacing in this guide.

What you need to DIY repair a bad Home button in an iPhone 5c

You'll need some tools and parts in order to repair your iPhone 5c, including a new Home button cable. iMore recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like iFixYouri. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• Replacement iPhone 5c Home button cable
• Suction cup
• 5-point security screwdriver
• Standard #000 Phillips screwdriver
• Spudger tool
• Razor blade
• iSesamo Opening tool (not necessary but awesome for prying up cables and getting under adhesive)

Power off your iPhone

Before performing any repair on any iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch you should always remember to power it off. Simply hold down on the Power button until you see Slide to Power off. One you're sure your iPhone is turned off, proceed to the next section.

Remove the two security screws on both sides of the dock connector

There are two security screws that secure the screen to the frame and they sit on each side of the dock connector. Use your 5-point security screwdriver to remove them. They are both the same size so it's okay if you mix them up.

Remove the display assembly

1. Place your suction cup slightly above the Home button assembly and secure it to the screen.

2. Holding the iPhone in place with one hand, gently pull upwards on the suction cup until you free the bottom of the screen. You should now be able to use your fingers to slowly raise up the screen and expose where the front assembly is connected to the logic board.
3. Remove the four screws holding down the shield that covers the display cables. To do this, use your #000 screwdriver. These screws are different sizes so make sure you keep them organized in a way you can remember for re-assembly.

4. Once all four screws are removed, carefully remove the shield and set it aside.

5. Now use your spudger tool in order to remove the three cables shown in the image below.

6. The display assembly should now be free from the body of the phone. Go ahead and set everything but the display assembly aside now.

Note: We used the suction cup method here but if you can't get a firm grip with a suction cup, carefully work your way around the bottom of the phone between the frame and display assembly with a razor blade until you can gently pry up using the flat end of your spudger tool instead. We recommend using plastic razor blades if you can find them since they're less abrasive and won't scratch the finish of the display or the casing.

Replace the Home button assembly

1. Remove the two screws shown below using your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

2. Use your iSesamo opening tool or a flat end of a razor blade to peel off the cable attached to the shield.

3. Peel the cable off the shield and replace it with the new one making sure the alignment is correct.
4. Screw down the Home button shield and stick the new cable down to the front of the assembly like you found the old one.
5. Test the Home button by pressing it to ensure that it depresses correctly and feels okay.

5. Re-connect the display assembly

1. Carefully reconnect the three cables running from the display assembly to the logic board.

2. Reposition the metal shield that sits over the three cables and replace the four screws that hold it in place, remembering where each one came from — they are all different sizes.

3. Line up the top of the screen carefully and make note of the teeth that line up to the top of your iPhone 5c's frame. Once the top of the display is lined up, carefully snap down the remainder by moving your fingers along the edge.

6. Replace the security screws on each side of the dock connector

Once you are confident that the display is seated correctly again, use your security screwdriver in order to replace the two screws on either side of the dock connector.

7. Test the new Home button cable

In order to test the Home button cable, do the following:

• Single press while inside of apps to make sure you get returned to the Home screen
• Long press to make sure Siri launches
• Double and triple click to make sure these functions work as well
• Press and hold the Home and Power buttons to ensure your iPhone reboots as it should

If all the above functions check out okay, you're good to go!

If you have an iPhone 5s that doesn't produce any sound over its loudspeaker but still functions through the earpiece, it's possible that your loudspeaker is either defective or blown; other symptoms can include low volume or crackling audio.

If you're experiencing any of these issues and you're out of warranty, a DIY iPhone repair isn't terribly hard and can save you a lot of cash compared to buying a new iPhone. So if you've got a steady hand and want to attempt the repair yourself, follow along and we'll walk you through where to get quality replacement parts and how to replace your loudspeaker all on your own!

What you need to DIY replace an iPhone 5s loudspeaker

You'll need some tools and parts in order to repair your iPhone 5s. iMore recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like iFixYouri. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• Replacement iPhone 5s loud speaker
• Suction cup
• 5-point security screwdriver
• Standard #000 Phillips screwdriver
• Spudger tool
• Razor blade
• iSesamo Opening tool (not necessary but awesome for prying up cables and getting under adhesive)

1. Power off your iPhone 5s

Before performing any repair on any device, always remember to power it off. Simply hold down on the Power button until you see Slide to Power off. One you're sure your iPhone 5s is turned off, proceed to the next section.

2. Remove the two security screws on both sides of the dock connector

There are two security screws that secure the screen to the frame and they sit on each side of the dock connector. Use your 5-point security screwdriver to remove them. They are both the same size so it's okay if you mix them up.

3. Remove the display assembly

1. Place your suction cup slightly above the Home button assembly and secure it to the screen.

2. Holding the iPhone in place with one hand, gently pull upwards on the suction cup until you free the bottom of the screen but do NOT pull up all the way at this point as a cable running to the Touch ID sensor is still connected. You only want to separate the screen about an inch at this point.

3. Now that you have a clear view of the cables, use the pointed edge of your spudger tool in order to carefully remove the metal shield covering the Touch ID cable.

4. Make sure you don't lose the metal guard that covers the Touch ID connector.

5. Again, use the pointed edge of your spudger tool in order to disconnect Touch ID.

6. You can now safely swing the display up more in order to see where it is connected to the board.
7. Remove the four screws holding down the shield that covers the display cables. To do this, use your #000 screwdriver.

8. Once all four screws are removed, carefully remove the shield and set it aside.

9. Now use your spudger tool in order to remove the three cables shown in the image below. You'll need to remove the two off to the far right in order to reveal the third and final cable, which sits below them.

10. The display assembly should now be free from the body of the phone. Go ahead and set the display assembly aside.

Note: We used the suction cup method here but note that if you can't get a firm grip with a suction cup, you can use a razor blade or the iSesamo opening tool. Carefully work your way around the bottom of the phone between the frame and display assembly with a razor blade or the iSesamo Opening Tool until you can gently pry up using the flat end of your spudger tool. We recommend using plastic razor blades if you can find them since they won't cause damage to the finish of the iPhone's frame.

4. Disconnect the battery

1. Remove the two screws holding down the battery cable using your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

2. Gently lift the battery shield out of your iPhone 5s and carefully set it aside.

3. Use your spudger tool to carefully pry up the battery cable.

This is as far as you need to go. It isn't necessary to completely remove the battery, but it's always a good idea to disconnect it before replacing any components to prevent any shorts from happening if the Power button accidentally gets pushed during the course of a repair.

5. Replace the loud speaker assembly

1. Remove the three screws outlined in the photo below using your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

2. Use the flat end of your spudger tool to lift up the right hand portion of the loud speaker, as shown in the photo below. Just don't attempt to completely remove it.

3. Carefully use your fingers to maneuver the loud speaker out of your iPhone's housing, taking note of the caution areas in the photo below.

4. Replace the speaker assembly. Carefully examine the teeth on the bottom, as one slides underneath where Touch ID connects and the other underneath the bottom right of the logic board. Again, take care of the round cable and the groove its wire should fit in on the loud speaker.

6. Reconnect the battery

1. Reconnect the battery cable to the logic board.

2. Replace the battery shield and the two screws you removed earlier.

7. Replace the display assembly

1. Reconnect the three cables shown in the image below, starting with the cable to the far left, which sits underneath the other two.

2. Replace the display shield using the four screws and your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

3. Re-connect the Touch ID cable to the logic board. The easiest tool to help you do this is the pointed end of the spudger tool.

4. Replace the Touch ID shield that sits over the cable.

5. Carefully line up the top of the display into the top of the frame.
6. Snap down the display until it clicks into place.

If the display doesn't want to go back down, do NOT force it. Instead, be sure that the top is lined up correctly and that you aren't snagging any cables. There should be no resistance when snapping it back into place. If there is, you aren't lining it up correctly.

8. Replace the dock connector screws

Use your 5-point security screwdriver to replace the two dock connector screws that sit on either side of the dock.

9. Test the new loudspeaker

In order to test the loudspeaker, perform the following steps:

• Place a call on speakerphone
• Play music through the speakers
• Plug in headphones and make sure transferring from the loudspeaker to headphones works okay
• Turn the volume all the way up to be sure you don't hear any distortion

If all of the above checks out okay, you're good to go!

Questions?

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If you're having issues with the rear iSight camera in your iPhone 5c, it's possible a replacement could fix the issue. A bad rear camera assembly could have many different symptoms. The most common is spots or purple haze showing up in photos. If the spot is always in the same place, the assembly is defective. If the shutter won't open or your Camera app freezes, that could also indicate a bad camera. Other symptoms include lines through photos, hazy or unfocused shots, and blacked out photos showing up in the Photos app. Luckily a camera replacement in the iPhone 5c isn't terribly difficult. We can walk you through how to get replacement parts and how to perform this relatively easy iPhone repair all on your own! The best part? It'll cost a fraction of what a new iPhone would cost!

What you need to replace an iPhone 5c iSight camera

You'll need some tools and parts in order to repair your iPhone 5c. iMore recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like iFixYouri. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• Replacement camera
• Suction cup
• 5-point security screwdriver
• Standard #000 Phillips screwdriver
• Spudger tool
• Razor blade
• iSesamo Opening tool (not necessary but awesome for prying up cables and getting under adhesive)

1. Power off your iPhone 5c

Before performing any repair on any iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch you should always remember to power it off. Simply hold down on the Power button until you see Slide to Power off. One you're sure your iPhone is turned off, proceed to the next section.

2. Remove the two security screws on both sides of the dock connector

There are two security screws that secure the screen to the frame and they sit on each side of the dock connector. Use your 5-point security screwdriver to remove them. They are both the same size so it's okay if you mix them up.

3. Remove the display assembly

1. Place your suction cup slightly above the Home button assembly and secure it to the screen.

2. Holding the iPhone in place with one hand, gently pull upwards on the suction cup until you free the bottom of the screen. You should now be able to use your fingers to slowly raise up the screen and expose where the front assembly is connected to the logic board.
3. Remove the four screws holding down the shield that covers the display cables. To do this, use your #000 screwdriver. These screws are different sizes so make sure you keep them organized in a way you can remember for re-assembly.

4. Once all four screws are removed, carefully remove the shield and set it aside.

5. Now use your spudger tool in order to remove the three cables shown in the image below.

6. The display assembly should now be free from the body of the phone. Go ahead and set the display assembly aside.

4. Disconnect the battery

We don't need to completely remove the battery for this repair but it's always a good idea to disconnect the battery before removing and replacing internal components in order to prevent a short from occurring.

1. Remove the two screws holding down the battery cable using your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

2. Gently lift the battery shield out of your iPhone 5c and carefully set it aside.

3. Use your spudger tool to carefully pry up the battery cable.

5. Replace the rear iSight camera

1. Use your #000 Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the camera assembly and shield in place.

2. Use the flat end of your spudger tool to pop up the single connector holding the camera assembly to the main board.

3. Lift the camera assembly and shield straight out of your iPhone 5c.

4. The silver metal shield should easily come off your iPhone 5c's old camera if pulled lightly.

5. Peel off any protective backing on the new camera assembly. Take care not to touch the lens and don't get dust in the camera recess of your iPhone 5c or you'll have to remove it and clean it later.
6. Place the new camera assembly into your iPhone 5c. Take care not to shove it and take note of the cable fold in the old camera assembly as you may have to create the fold yourself on the new assembly.
7. Replace the metal shield over the new camera assembly.

8. Replace the two screws you removed in step one using your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

6. Re-connect the battery

1. Re-connect the battery cable that you pried up earlier.

2. Replace the battery cable shield.

3. Replace the two screws holding the battery cable down using your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

7. Re-connect the display assembly

1. Carefully reconnect the three cables running from the display assembly to the logic board.

2. Reposition the metal shield that sits over the three cables and replace the four screws that hold it in place, remembering where each one came from — they are all different sizes.

3. Line up the top of the screen carefully and make note of the teeth that line up to the top of your iPhone 5c's frame. Once the top of the display is lined up, carefully snap down the remainder by moving your fingers along the edge.

8. Replace the security screws on each side of the dock connector

Once you are confident that the display is seated correctly again, use your security screwdriver in order to replace the two screws on either side of the dock connector.

9. Test the new iSight camera

It's now safe to turn your iPhone 5c back on. If all went well, you should see an Apple logo. Once your iPhone finishes booting up, perform the following steps to verify the new iSight camera is now working properly:

• Snap a photo of a white piece of paper or surface and check for discoloration and spots
• Snap a photo of a black piece of paper or surface and check for discoloration and spots again
• Toggle between the front facing and rear camera to make sure they behave and function normally
• Take a photo with the flash on to ensure the flash functions properly
• Test out other camera modes and try recording a short video and make sure audio comes through properly as well
• Test FaceTime video functionality with both the front and rear cameras
• Tap to focus on different areas to ensure focus is working properly

If all of the above checked out okay, you're good to go and can get back to snapping photos again!

If you can't hear the caller on the other end of the line when you hold your iPhone to your face, or they sound distorted all the time, it's possible that the earpiece is defective or blown out. Most users that have iPhones with this issue can verify it if speakerphone works just fine. If that sounds like what you're experiencing with your iPhone, an earpiece replacement may be in order. Depending on what model iPhone you have, the difficulty range can vary. One thing is for certain though, performing an iPhone repair on your own is a heck of a lot cheaper than purchasing a new iPhone.

How to replace a blown earpiece in an iPhone 5s

Following with tradition, the iPhone 5s' earpiece also sits on the back of the display assembly. And for anyone that thinks they need to replace one, this is a good thing. Not only is the earpiece easy to get to in the iPhone 5s, it's also incredibly easy to replace. So if you aren't getting any feedback through the earpiece, feel the volume is a lot lower than it should be, or something else, this should be a quick and easy repair with little skill needed. Even better yet, it'll cost you far less than replacing your iPhone 5s out of warranty.

• How to DIY repair a blown or distorted earpiece in the iPhone 5s

How to replace a blown earpiece in an iPhone 5c

The iPhone 5c is very similar to the iPhone 5 in terms of the earpiece. It also sits on the back of the display assembly and it just as easy to swap out. Much like other models, symptoms of a blown earpiece in an iPhone 5c can include distorted audio, robotic sounding voices, low volume, and in come cases, no volume at all. If you're experiencing any of these symptoms, odds are the earpiece is what needs to be replaced.

• How to DIY replace a broken earpiece in an iPhone 5c

How to fix a blown earpiece in an iPhone 5

The earpiece on the iPhone 5 was completely redesigned and relocated. Instead of residing in the casing where it then made contact with the logic board, it now sits on the back of the screen assembly. Not only did this change in location and design make the earpiece clearer and louder, it also made it much more accessible when it comes time to perform a DIY repair. I'd say even a novice repair ninja could tackle an iPhone 5 earpiece replacement pretty easily.

For anyone experiencing distortion when on a call with the earpiece, no sound at all, or intermittent sound, this is the guide you want.

• How to DIY replace a blown earpiece in an iPhone 5

How to replace a bad earpiece in an iPhone 4s

The iPhone 4s earpiece is located in just about the same place as both iterations of the iPhone 4. The main difference is how it's attached and wrapped around the power button cable. This requires a little more care so we'd qualify this repair as an intermediate to advanced. Just like other earpiece replacements, the symptoms of a blown earpiece in an iPhone 4s are distortion, no sound, and crackling. However, a common symptom in the iPhone 4s that differentiates it slightly from other models is low volume. This is an issue I saw frequently. You could hear, but just faintly.

• How to replace a blown earpiece in an iPhone 4s

How to replace a blown earpiece in an iPhone 4

The iPhone 4 earpiece repair is almost exactly the same as an iPhone 4s. The CDMA and GSM variants have slightly different guides due to the internals being somewhat different. Regardless, whichever model iPhone 4 you have, you can expect this repair to take around 30 minutes. So if you're picking up distortion, crackling, or aren't receiving any sound at all through the earpiece, check out the guides below to see if it makes sense for you to take a stab at the repair yourself.

• How to replace a blown earpiece in a GSM iPhone 4
• [How to replace a blown earpiece in a CDMA (Verizon or Sprint) iPhone 4](##How to fix a blown earpiece in an iPhone 3G or iPhone 3GS

Much like the iPhone 5, the iPhone 3G and iPhone 3GS opens from the front. Even luckier yet, the earpiece is located on the back of the display assembly as it is in newer model iPhones. This makes the iPhone 3G and iPhone 3GS extremely easy to fix when it comes to a bad earpiece. You actually have two choices, you can replace the earpiece by itself or just swap out the entire front digitizer assembly, which is a lot easier. Either way, both methods aren't expensive and require only about 20 minutes of your time. Replacing the entire digitizer can also rule out any issues with the proximity sensor and ambient light sensor.

• How to replace the earpiece on your iPhone 3G or iPhone 3GS
• How to replace the complete digitizer assembly on your iPhone 3G or iPhone 3GS

See also:

• How to replace your iPhone's cracked or broken screen: The ultimate guide
• How to fix a bad dock connector on your iPhone: The ultimate guide
• How to fix a non-responsive Home button on your iPhone: The ultimate guide
• How to fix a stuck or broken iPhone power button: The ultimate guide
• All iPhone DIY repair guides

Have an iPhone 5s with a busted front-facing camera? Whether you have lines through the screen when trying to take selfies or the camera just won't seem to turn around, all of these can be signs that it needs to be replaced. Luckily, since it's simply attached to the front display, replacing an iPhone 5s FaceTime camera is a relatively easy iPhone DIY repair to perform on your own. Not only can we walk you through step-by-step, we can also link you to high quality parts and tools to get the job done right!

What you need to replace an iPhone 5s front-facing camera

You'll need some tools and parts in order to repair your iPhone 5s. If you're in the United States or Canada, we highly recommend checking out eTech Parts as we've had lots of good experiences with them and know their customer service is out of this world. All the links below will route you to the direct item on eTech's site.

• Replacement front-facing camera - Buy now
• Suction cup - Buy now
• 5-point security screwdriver - Buy now
• Standard #000 Phillips screwdriver - Buy now
• Spudger tool - Buy now
• Razor blade - Buy Now
• iSesamo Opening tool (not necessary but awesome for prying up cables and getting under adhesive) - Buy Now

Power off your iPhone 5s

Before performing any repair on any device, always remember to power it off. Simply hold down on the Power button until you see Slide to Power off. One you're sure your iPhone 5s is turned off, proceed to the next section.

Remove the two security screws on both sides of the dock connector

There are two security screws that secure the screen to the frame and they sit on each side of the dock connector. Use your 5-point security screwdriver to remove them. They are both the same size so it's okay if you mix them up.

Remove the display assembly

1. Place your suction cup slightly above the Home button assembly and secure it to the screen.

2. Holding the iPhone in place with one hand, gently pull upwards on the suction cup until you free the bottom of the screen but do NOT pull up all the way at this point as a cable running to the Touch ID sensor is still connected. You only want to separate the screen about an inch at this point.

3. Now that you have a clear view of the cables, use the pointed edge of your spudger tool in order to carefully remove the metal shield covering the Touch ID cable.

4. Make sure you don't lose the metal guard that covers the Touch ID connector.

5. Again, use the pointed edge of your spudger tool in order to disconnect Touch ID.

6. You can now safely swing the display up more in order to see where it is connected to the board.
7. Remove the four screws holding down the shield that covers the display cables. To do this, use your #000 screwdriver.

8. Once all four screws are removed, carefully remove the shield and set it aside.

9. Now use your spudger tool in order to remove the three cables shown in the image below. You'll need to remove the two off to the far right in order to reveal the third and final cable, which sits below them.

10. The display assembly should now be free from the body of the phone. Go ahead and set everything but the display assembly aside.

Note: We used the suction cup method here but note that if you can't get a firm grip with a suction cup, you can use a razor blade or the iSesamo opening tool. Carefully work your way around the bottom of the phone between the frame and display assembly with a razor blade or the iSesamo Opening Tool until you can gently pry up using the flat end of your spudger tool. We recommend using plastic razor blades if you can find them since they won't cause damage to the finish of the iPhone's frame.

2. Remove the earpiece

1. Remove the two screws holding in the earpiece speaker and bracket using your #000 screwdriver.

2. Carefully loosen the earpiece bracket and lift it upwards. Note that there are clips on each side that you may need to bend outwards slightly in order for the bracket and earpiece to come out. Don't pull hard as you may break or bend the bracket.

3. Set the earpiece and bracket aside.

3. Replace the front-facing camera and sensor cable assembly

1. Starting on the right side of the camera cable, which is the portion that sits underneath the earpiece contacts, slowly start prying up using either a pry tool or an iSesamo Opening Tool. If you have a heat gun, you may use it for only a few seconds to heat up the adhesive on the underside of the cable, but it really isn't necessary as it's a very weak adhesive. You can turn the digitizer assembly upside down as shown in the photos in order to obtain a better angle when prying.

2. Once the adhesive is broken, the right side of the cable should be free.
3. The camera cable is still attached my a mic hole, so pry it up using your spudger tool as shown in the photo below.

4. Take care to separate the digitizer cable from the camera assembly cable.

5. Pull the camera cable lose from the digitizer assembly by peeling off the adhesive attached to the display shield.

6. Take note of any cable folds and duplicate them on the new assembly.
7. Follow these instruction in reverse in order to replace the camera assembly.

6. Replace the earpiece

1. Reposition the earpiece speaker and bracket onto the back of the display assembly.
2. Replace the two screws holding it in place using your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

7. Replace the display assembly

1. Reconnect the three cables shown in the image below, starting with the cable to the far left, which sits underneath the other two.

2. Replace the display shield using the four screws and your #000 Phillips screwdriver.

3. Re-connect the Touch ID cable to the logic board. The easiest tool to help you do this is the pointed end of the spudger tool.

4. Replace the Touch ID shield that sits over the cable.

5. Carefully line up the top of the display into the top of the frame.
6. Snap down the display until it clicks into place.

If the display doesn't want to go back down, do NOT force it. Instead, be sure that the top is lined up correctly and that you aren't snagging any cables. There should be no resistance when snapping it back into place. If there is, you aren't lining it up correctly. Also make sure the earpiece is installed correctly. If it isn't completely flush, this can cause the assembly to not lay flat in the body of your iPhone 5s.

8. Replace the dock connector screws

Use your 5-point security screwdriver to replace the two dock connector screws that sit on either side of the dock.

9. Test the new front-facing camera

After you've finished assembling your iPhone 5s, it's safe to turn it on. In order to test the new front-facing camera, I recommend you perform the following steps:

• Toggle between the front and rear facing cameras to make sure both are working and switching properly
• Take photos in both low light and bright light to be sure the camera is back to working properly
• Test the ambient light sensor — simply go in a dark room and make sure your brightness adjusts accordingly
• Test the proximity sensor — place a test call and hold your finger over the sensor to ensure the screen goes off, just as it would when it's against your face
• Test the earpiece while on a call to verify it was placed correctly and it making contact with the new camera sensor cable

If all of the above checked out okay, you're good to go!

See also:

• How to replace a cracked screen on an iPhone 5s
• All DIY repair guides