Apple has released an updated version iOS 5.1.1, build 9B208, for the iPhone 4 GSM/AT&T model. There doesn't appear to be any information from Apple on what triggered the new build, though it's possible some very specific bug or glitch was identified and fixed. If it was incredibly minor, Apple would likely just have filed it away for next time. If it was incredibly major, Apple would likely have pushed it out as new update to ensure every user got it.

As it is, if you've already updated to iOS 5.1.1 you won't see the new version popup as an over-the-air (OTA) update, or as available in iTunes. If you haven't already updated, you'll be offered this new version when you do. To force an update from the previous iOS 5.1.1 build to this one, you'll have to restore to it in iTunes. (And really, there's almost certainly no reason to do that.)

iOS 5.1.1 was originally released on Monday, May 7. As of May 15, almost 74% of iMore readers had already updated to iOS 5.1.1. Today, one of the major reasons many had waited, an untethered jailbreak for iOS 5.1.1, was released.

• How to manually update to iOS 5.1.1 over-the-air (OTA)
• how to set up, back up, restore, and update using iCloud
• iOS 5 Forum

The new Gevey Ultra S is now available for pre-order and will unlock your iPhone 4S without the need for a jailbreak. Your order will come complete with one Gevey SIM tray and an Ultra S SIM which should be plug and play and require no emergency dialing for it to work.

It's worth noting that the Ultra S is only compatible with the GSM version of the iPhone 4S which means if you've got a Verizon or Sprint model, you'll have to sit this one out. Gevey also claims that the Ultra S will operate under a 3-volt standard which allows for less battery consumption. Basically, you shouldn't lose any battery life due to the unlock. It will also be completely untethered so no worries about rebooting and losing the unlock.

While the Ultra S will unlock 2G and 3G bands on all networks, in some cases you may still be restricted to 2G access. This is common with unlocked AT&T phones on T-Mobile who only have EDGE access. The Gevey Ultra S boasts the following feature set -

• GEVEY™ True Plug-and-Play Unlocking SIM Interposer
• No Need to Dial International Emergency Number 112
• Untethered Unlock with no Jailbreak Required
• Compatible with all GSM iPhone 4S SIM Cards (Does not work on CDMA iPhone)
• Complete Unlock with all 2G and 3G data services
• No SIM Card Cutting or Physical Modifications
• Works on iOS 5.0, 5.0.1
• Works on Baseband 1.0.11, 1.013, 1.0.14
• Guaranteed Better Reception than Previous
• Decreased Power Consumption

It's worth noting that this unlock doesn't require you to alter or cut your SIM card, which is a plus over other unlocking methods. You can hit the link below to pre-order a Gevey Ultra S for $54.99 via applenberry. Much cheaper than paying international roaming fees on your native carrier when traveling overseas. Any of you planning to pick one up?

Source: applenberry

"Checking for water damage is pretty simple and something everyone should do before forking over your hard earned cash for a second-hand iPhone 4."

If you're trying to save some money and are in the market to purchase a used iPhone 4 from either Craigslist, eBay, or some other local or online seller, one of the first things you'll want to do is check for any signs of water damage. I see several people in my office each week that purchased used iPhones that mysteriously quit working after a few days. As much as we'd like to believe there aren't people out there who would sell us broken or water damaged devices, it happens every day.

While online-only iPhone purchases are convenient, I highly recommend meeting up with someone locally, for example, someone off of Craiglist, before turning to eBay or any other online broker. This allows you inspect the iPhone device before you actually commit to purchasing it, and gives you a chance test it out and check for water damage yourself.

If you can't meet someone locally and need to buy online, request that the seller inspect for water damage and send you images that allow you to see that the water sensors are still intact and that the internals have not suffered any damage or corrosion.

Apple has placed 4 sensors inside the iPhone 4 that make it pretty easy to tell if any part of the device has come in contact with liquid. These sensors are placed exactly the same in the GSM iPhone 4 and CDMA iPhone 4. You want to make sure the sensors are white as opposed to red. If you see a sensor that has turned red, that's a sign it's come into contact with liquid or heavy humidity.

How to check external iPhone water sensors

The easiest thing to check are the two sensors you can see without removing the back of the iPhone 4. I recommend bringing a small pocket or keychain flashlight with you in order to get a good look at the sensors.

Headphone jack sensor

The easiest sensor to check in an iPhone 4 for water damage is the one at the bottom of the headphone jack

Your first sensor is located inside the headphone jack at the bottom. It's the easiest sensor to find and inspect. Shine a flashlight into it and make sure you don't see anything but white. (Red is bad.)

As a side note, this sensor can come out or become dislodged occasionally. If you don't see one, just move on and check the next sensor. I wouldn't take it as a sign that the seller is trying to be dishonest (yet).

Dock connector sensor

The white part I've emphasized in the image is where you'll want to look for the water sensor in the dock connector

The next sensor is a square sensor in the dock connector. To see it, hold the phone screen down in your hand and look inside the dock connector towards the middle. On the upper side you will see a tiny white square (or red square if the device has come into contact with liquid). Make sure this one is white.

If both sensors are white, it may not be necessary to proceed any further. The device most likely has never been subjected to water damage. If the headphone jack sensor was missing or you couldn't find one of the sensors, you may want to continue to the next section.

How to checking internal iPhone water sensors

It may seem silly to bring a screwdriver with you to check out an iPhone but it'll seem a lot less silly when it saves the lost money and headache you'd get for buying a water damaged iPhone 4.

There are two sensors on the inside of the iPhone 4 that are easily visible once the back is removed. You can pick up a security screw driver online and a #00 Phillips screwdriver from your local hardware store for a few bucks. You'll need one of the two in order to remove the back.

If you're buying a CDMA iPhone 4 off of someone, you'll most certainly need the security screwdriver. Older GSM models still have standard #00 screws while newer ones have security screws. Remove the 2 screws holding the back plate on and gently push the back up and pull it off. This will give you a clear view of the last 2 sensors and a lot of the internals of the device.

While you're checking the last 2 sensors it's always a good idea to look closely at the internals and make sure everything looks ok. You'll want to avoid any devices that show signs of the following:

• Obvious corrosion
• Torn cables
• Missing screws
• The battery tab is torn off
• A large amount of debris or dust inside the device

If all those seem good, you'll just need to make sure the water sensors check out okay.

Battery sensor

Check the sensor directly above the battery to make sure it hasn't turned red

The first sensor is placed directly over the clip that holds the battery down. Again, just make sure it's white and move on the to next and final sensor. If it isn't white but all the rest are, I'd probably still advise against buying the device as the battery or other internal parts could have come into contact with liquid at some point.

Logic board sensor

Never purchase a used iPhone 4 if the sensor over the screw holding down the logic board has turned red

The final sensor is located on a screw holding the logic board in place. If this sensor is white, you're in the clear. If it's not, you'll definitely want to stay away from purchasing the device. This sensor is the closest one to the logic board. If it's red, odds are the logic board has liquid damage and will eventually go out.

Wrap up

Checking for water damage is pretty simple and something everyone should do before forking over your hard earned cash for a second-hand iPhone 4. I would personally consider buying an iPhone 4 if only the headphone jack or dock connector sensor was triggered. If the rest of the device is in perfect condition and the inside has no sensors triggered, I'd say you're okay. A lot of things including living in a humid climate can cause external sensors to be triggered. Apple will actually honor a warranty swap if only one external sensor is triggered due to these factors.

Just make sure if one external sensor is triggered or missing that you check the inside ones. As long as those are okay, the decision really lies with how comfortable you feel and how honest you think the seller is. If they seem irritated or worried about you checking out the device, find another one.

Interested in other DIY, repair, and modding info? Check out the resources below or if you ever decide certain repairs are beyond your skill level, contact PXLFIX regarding mail-in repairs and pricing.

Additional resources

• How to choose quality iPhone 4 color kits
• All DIY, repair, and mod guides
• Mod and DIY repair forums

Having speaker or cellular reception issues on your GSM/AT&T iPhone 4 and want to DIY repair it? iMore has you covered. We can guide you through the process and give you advice on where to get your parts and tools. Replacing the bottom speaker assembly or cellular antenna are both pretty straight forward repairs if you've got good instructions, the right tools, and quality parts.

Disclaimer: As with any repair, iMore nor PXLFIX can be held responsible for any damage you may do to your device. It’s also worth considering that opening up your device to perform any repair or modification can and will void your Apple warranty. If you don’t feel comfortable opening your device, don’t. Use extreme care and caution when performing a repair on any device.

What issues this repair will address

• Cellular reception issues - if your iPhone 4 can't hold a cellular signal, won't connect to 3G, or constantly says "Searching.." - you may need to replace your antenna. First try replacing your SIM or speaking with your carrier.
• Bottom speaker doesn't work when using speakerphone or playing music

What you need for a DIY speaker or cellular antenna repair

PXLFIX recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like eTech Parts. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

Please note the speaker assembly is the same across all models of iPhone 4 and iPhone 4S but the antenna will be different.

• GSM iPhone 4 (please note there ARE internal differences between the GSM and CDMA models)
• New GSM iPhone 4 speaker assembly or cellular antenna (whichever part you are replacing) - iPhone 4 speaker assembly, GSM iPhone 4 cellular antenna
• SIM removal tool (or a paper clip)
• #00 Phillips screwdriver
• Pry tool or spudger
• Security screwdriver (only if your iPhone has 5-point security screws in the dock connector)

Power off your iPhone 4

Before performing any repair, always power off your device before removing any screws or parts.

Remove the back

1. First remove the bottom 2 dock connector screws in your iPhone 4. Use either your #00 screwdriver or the five point depending on whether or not your iPhone 4 has security screws in the dock connector. Almost all newer devices will have security screws.

2. To remove the back simply slide the back upwards and lift it off gently.
3. Set the back and 2 dock connector screws aside.

Remove your SIM card

Use a SIM removal tool or a paperclip to remove your SIM card and tray. Set them aside.

Remove the battery

1. To remove the battery you’ll need to remove the #00 screw holding the battery clip in place. Remove this screw located to the bottom left of the battery.

2. The metal clip on the battery is what clips the battery to the logic board. You’ll need to pop this clip up with your plastic pry tool. Simply stick the end of your pry tool underneath the clip and gently pull upwards until it unfastens from the logic board.

3. To remove the battery, I do not recommend using the plastic pull tab. There is quite a bit of adhesive underneath the battery and the tab will normally just rip off or you can bend the battery. Instead, run your pry tool along the right side of the battery and break the adhesive that way. Once the battery is free from the adhesive, you can pull the battery out of the phone. There are no other connectors holding it in.

4. You will notice a tiny grounding clip sitting underneath where you unscrewed the battery. Set this aside for replacement during reassembly. This is a grounding clip for your antenna. Make sure you put it back in place before reconnecting your battery.

Remove the dock connector shield and disconnect the cable

1. There is a shield held on with two screws covering the dock connector cable. Remove the two screws holding it in place and set the shield and screws aside, remembering where they came from.

2. Next, use your pry tool to pry up the actual dock connector cable. Be careful as there is adhesive holding the cable in place as well. Peel back the adhesive gently to free the cable.

Remove the top logic board shield

1. There are 5 screws holding the logic board shield in place. Remove the 5 screws holding it in place. Just be sure to remember which holes they came out of as the screws are different sizes. I always keep them in order of how they came out.

2. Next you'll need to remove the shield. There is a tiny clip built into the shield holding it in place. (Refer to the photo above.) Pop it up with your pry tool and you should be able to slide the shield up fairly easily. Just take care not to bend it or break off a clip.

Disconnect the 6 cables from the top of the logic board

1. There is only one connector holding the camera to the logic board. Remove this cable in the picture above using your pry tool. Gently lift upwards and it will pop right off.

2. Next gently lift the camera out of the device. You'll notice there is a tiny tab that is seated underneath the LCD and digitizer cables to the right.

3. Next pop up the LCD and digitizer cables to the right of where the camera cable was connected. You pop them up in the same direction.

4. The 3 cables further to the right will need to be disconnected as well. They pop up in the opposite direction.

Remove the logic board

1. Start with the 2 screws holding the logic board down in the middle and at the bottom left. Both use your #00 Phillips screwdriver. They are the same size. The one on the right of the logic board in the middle of the device has a water sensor over it you'll need to remove.
2. The second screw is located where the logic board meets the speaker assembly towards the bottom left of the device.

3. The third and final screw holding the logic board in is located at the top of the logic board off to the right. It is the only cross-head screw in your device. Use a small flathead screwdriver to carefully remove it.

4. You should now be able to remove your logic board. Holding it at the bottom, gently pull it upwards. I use my other hand to lift up at the top where the rear facing camera used to be.
5. Take note that there is a small rubber piece that sits at the top of the logic board. You will need this for re-assembly so make sure it doesn't fall off. If you lose this, you could see reception issues.

Remove the speaker assembly

1. To remove the speaker assembly you have one more #00 screw to remove. It sits to the right of the speaker assembly in the bottom right hand corner of your device. Remove it.
2. The second screw holding the speaker assembly into your iPhone you've already removed when you removed the logic board.
3. Gently lift the speaker assembly out of your device and set it aside.

Replace the speaker assembly

If you're replacing the speaker assembly, you'll just need to unscrew the cellular antenna and peel back the adhesive holding it in place. There are only 2 screws holding it in place. Place the cellular antenna carefully on the new speaker assembly and follow the instruction video for reassembly below.

Replacing the cellular antenna

Remove the 2 screws holding the old assembly down and peel it off the speaker assembly. From here you can apply the new cellular antenna to the speaker assembly. Most will come with adhesive already on them and ready for installation. Be sure to put any folds or creases where necessary as some come flat and you'll have to work it into place.

Reassemble your iPhone

Once you've gotten your new speaker assembly or cellular antenna reassembled using the steps above, you'll just need to reassemble your iPhone 4. We've put together a reassembly video you can watch above.

And... done!

Your bottom loud speaker should now work or your cellular antenna should be back in working condition. As a side note, once replacing the cellular antenna you may have to toggle 3G on and off in certain cases.

Have you done this repair yourself? Let us know how it went! Want to know how to perform another type of iPhone repair or modification? Send me suggestions to ally.kazmucha@imore.com or leave a comment in our brand new Mod and DIY Repair Forum!

For questions or to inquire about mail-in repairs through PXLFIX, please follow us on Twitter, like us on Facebook or e-mail us directly! Of course, you can like us and follow us just because you think we're cool too!

Have a shattered or unresponsive screen on your GSM iPhone 4 and need to know how to DIY repair it? If you don't want to put out the extra cash for a new phone and feel pretty confident in your repair skills, we can walk you through how to fix your iPhone 4 on your own.

Disclaimer: As with any repair, iMore nor PXLFIX can be held responsible for any damage you may do to your device. It’s also worth considering that opening up your device to perform any repair or modification can and will void your Apple warranty. If you don’t feel comfortable opening your device, don’t. Use extreme care and caution when performing a repair on any device.

What you need for a DIY GSM iPhone 4 screen replacement

PXLFIX recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like eTech Parts. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• GSM iPhone 4 (please note there ARE internal differences between the GSM and CDMA models)
• New GSM iPhone 4 LCD & digitizer assembly - GSM iPhone 4 LCD and digitizer assembly
• SIM removal tool (or a paper clip)
• #00 Phillips screwdriver
• Pry tool or spudger (you may need a handheld razor blade as well)
• Security screwdriver (only if your iPhone has 5-point security screws in the dock connector)

Power off your iPhone 4

Before performing any repair, always power off your device before removing any screws or parts.

Remove the back

1. First remove the bottom 2 dock connector screws in your iPhone 4. Use either your #00 screwdriver or the five point depending on whether or not your iPhone 4 has security screws in the dock connector. Almost all newer devices will have security screws.

2. To remove the back simply slide the back upwards and lift it off gently.
3. Set the back and 2 dock connector screws aside.

Remove your SIM card

Use a SIM removal tool or a paperclip to remove your SIM card and tray. Set them aside.

Remove the battery

1. To remove the battery you’ll need to remove the #00 screw holding the battery clip in place. Remove this screw located to the bottom left of the battery.

2. The metal clip on the battery is what clips the battery to the logic board. You’ll need to pop this clip up with your plastic pry tool. Simply stick the end of your pry tool underneath the clip and gently pull upwards until it unfastens from the logic board.

3. To remove the battery, I do not recommend using the plastic pull tab. There is quite a bit of adhesive underneath the battery and the tab will normally just rip off or you can bend the battery. Instead, run your pry tool along the right side of the battery and break the adhesive that way. Once the battery is free from the adhesive, you can pull the battery out of the phone. There are no other connectors holding it in.

4. You will notice a tiny grounding clip sitting underneath where you unscrewed the battery. Set this aside for replacement during reassembly. This is a grounding clip for your antenna. Make sure you put it back in place before reconnecting your battery.

Remove the dock connector shield and disconnect the cable

1. There is a shield held on with two screws covering the dock connector cable. Remove the two screws holding it in place and set the shield and screws aside, remembering where they came from.

2. Next, use your pry tool to pry up the actual dock connector cable. Be careful as there is adhesive holding the cable in place as well. Peel back the adhesive gently to free the cable.

Remove the top logic board shield

1. There are 5 screws holding the logic board shield in place. Remove the 5 screws holding it in place. Just be sure to remember which holes they came out of as the screws are different sizes. I always keep them in order of how they came out.

2. Next you'll need to remove the shield. There is a tiny clip built into the shield holding it in place. (Refer to the photo above.) Pop it up with your pry tool and you should be able to slide the shield up fairly easily. Just take care not to bend it or break off a clip.

Disconnect the 6 cables from the top of the logic board

1. There is only one connector holding the camera to the logic board. Remove this cable in the picture above using your pry tool. Gently lift upwards and it will pop right off.

2. Next gently lift the camera out of the device. You'll notice there is a tiny tab that is seated underneath the LCD and digitizer cables to the right.

3. Next pop up the LCD and digitizer cables to the right of where the camera cable was connected. You pop them up in the same direction.

4. The 3 cables further to the right will need to be disconnected as well. They pop up in the opposite direction.

Remove the logic board

1. Start with the 2 screws holding the logic board down in the middle and at the bottom left. Both use your #00 Phillips screwdriver. They are the same size. The one on the right of the logic board in the middle of the device has a water sensor over it you'll need to remove.
2. The second screw is located where the logic board meets the speaker assembly towards the bottom left of the device.

3. The third and final screw holding the logic board in is located at the top of the logic board off to the right. It is the only cross-head screw in your device. Use a small flathead screwdriver to carefully remove it.

4. You should now be able to remove your logic board. Holding it at the bottom, gently pull it upwards. I use my other hand to lift up at the top where the rear facing camera used to be.
5. Take note that there is a small rubber piece that sits at the top of the logic board. You will need this for re-assembly so make sure it doesn't fall off. If you lose this, you could see reception issues.

Remove the speaker assembly

1. To remove the speaker assembly you have one more #00 screw to remove. It sits to the right of the speaker assembly in the bottom right hand corner of your device. Remove it.
2. The second screw holding the speaker assembly into your iPhone you've already removed when you removed the logic board.
3. Gently lift the speaker assembly out of your device and set it aside.

Remove the vibrator assembly

1. Locate your vibrator assembly in the upper right hand corner of your iPhone 4 (assuming you're looking at it from the back).

2. It is held in with two screws. Use your #00 Phillips screwdriver and remove them. The screw on the left will be significantly longer. Just remember which screw came from where.

3. Next, gently lift the vibrator assembly out of the device.

Remove the 4 screws in each corner

There are 10 total screws that attach your iPhone 4 LCD/Digitizer assembly to your frame. The 4 in the corners will need to be completely removed. They are all #00 screws.

Loosen the remaining 6 screws

These screws run along the sides of your iPhone and also have washers on them. I find it best to just loosen them opposed to removing them completely. The washers are not fun to put back in. Loosening them will allow you to remove the LCD/Digitizer assembly just as easily. About 2 1/2 to 3 turns for each screw should loosen them up enough to continue. If you feel the washer wobbling back and forth a bit, you've loosened it enough.

Remove the broken LCD & digitizer assembly from your iPhone

This is where it can get a bit tricky. Your screen is held in not only with the 10 screws mentioned above but also with strong adhesive. You will need to break this adhesive in order to remove the front panel.

1. Hold your iPhone in one hand with the screen facing you. Starting in the top left hand corner, run a pry tool or razor blade in between the frame and front panel. You'll need to pry up quite a bit in order to break the adhesive. Be careful around the front facing camera and speaker area.

2. Next move your pry tool or razor blade to the bottom of your device and do the same thing, working your way around until the adhesive is broken and the front panel starts to come off. If your screen is cracked, additional glass may break off. That's perfectly normal.

3. To completely remove the front panel - start at the top of your iPhone and gently pull the assembly away from the frame. Be careful to allow the LCD and digitizer cables to slip through the opening in the frame without getting caught up.

Remove any left over glass or debris from the frame

Before reassembling your iPhone, you'll need to make sure there is no glass stuck to the remaining adhesive or inside the frame. If there is it could cause damage to the new screen or you'll be able to see it through the new assembly, which can be annoying. Just make sure you do a thorough job of picking off all the glass on and around the frame before continuing to reassembly.

Reassemble your iPhone

Once you're sure you've gotten all the glass and leftover debris out of your iPhone, you're ready for reassembly. Watch our reassembly video above or repeat all the steps above in the reverse order.

And... done!

If you followed the above steps correctly you should know have a working and non-broken iPhone 4 again. Have you done this repair yourself? Let us know how it went! Want to know how to perform another type of iPhone repair or modification? Send me suggestions to ally.kazmucha@imore.com or leave a comment in our brand new Mod and DIY Repair Forum!

For questions or to inquire about mail-in repairs through PXLFIX, please follow us on Twitter, like us on Facebook or e-mail us directly! Of course, you can like us and follow us just because you think we're cool too!

The iPhone 4 is known to have issues when it comes to the home button -- all that double-clicking for multitasking seems to have come at a price! This is probably the reason they redesigned the home button assembly in the iPhone 4S. If your GSM iPhone 4 home button has become unresponsive or loose, a DIY repair is something you can perform with the right tools and about 45 minutes of your time.

Disclaimer: As with any repair, iMore nor PXLFIX can be held responsible for any damage you may do to your device. It’s also worth considering that opening up your device to perform any repair or modification can and will void your Apple warranty. If you don’t feel comfortable opening your device, don’t. Use extreme care and caution when performing a repair on any device.

What you need for a DIY GSM iPhone 4 home button replacement

PXLFIX recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like eTech Parts. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• GSM iPhone 4 (please note there ARE internal differences between the GSM and CDMA models)
• New GSM iPhone 4 home button and flex cable (while you can replace one or the other, I suggest replacing both. Most of the time the culprit is the contact on the cable, not the actual button itself.)
• GSM iPhone 4 home button (white)
• GSM iPhone 4 home button (black)
• GSM iPhone 4 flex cable
• #00 Phillips screwdriver
• Pry tool or spudger (you may need a handheld razor blade as well)
• Security screwdriver (only if your iPhone has 5-point security screws in the dock connector)

Power off your iPhone 4

Before performing any repair, always power off your device before removing any screws or parts.

Remove the back

1. First remove the bottom 2 dock connector screws in your iPhone 4. Use either your #00 screwdriver or the five point depending on whether or not your iPhone 4 has security screws in the dock connector. Almost all newer devices will have security screws.

2. To remove the back simply slide the back upwards and lift it off gently.
3. Set the back and 2 dock connector screws aside.

Remove your SIM card

Use a SIM removal tool or a paperclip to remove your SIM card and tray. Set them aside.

Remove the battery

1. To remove the battery you’ll need to remove the #00 screw holding the battery clip in place. Remove this screw located to the bottom left of the battery.

2. The metal clip on the battery is what clips the battery to the logic board. You’ll need to pop this clip up with your plastic pry tool. Simply stick the end of your pry tool underneath the clip and gently pull upwards until it unfastens from the logic board.

3. To remove the battery, I do not recommend using the plastic pull tab. There is quite a bit of adhesive underneath the battery and the tab will normally just rip off or you can bend the battery. Instead, run your pry tool along the right side of the battery and break the adhesive that way. Once the battery is free from the adhesive, you can pull the battery out of the phone. There are no other connectors holding it in.

4. You will notice a tiny grounding clip sitting underneath where you unscrewed the battery. Set this aside for replacement during reassembly. This is a grounding clip for your antenna. Make sure you put it back in place before reconnecting your battery.

Remove the dock connector shield and disconnect the cable

1. There is a shield held on with two screws covering the dock connector cable. Remove the two screws holding it in place and set the shield and screws aside, remembering where they came from.

2. Next, use your pry tool to pry up the actual dock connector cable. Be careful as there is adhesive holding the cable in place as well. Peel back the adhesive gently to free the cable.

Remove the top logic board shield

1. There are 5 screws holding the logic board shield in place. Remove the 5 screws holding it in place. Just be sure to remember which holes they came out of as the screws are different sizes. I always keep them in order of how they came out.

2. Next you'll need to remove the shield. There is a tiny clip built into the shield holding it in place. (Refer to the photo above.) Pop it up with your pry tool and you should be able to slide the shield up fairly easily. Just take care not to bend it or break off a clip.

Disconnect the 6 cables from the top of the logic board

1. There is only one connector holding the camera to the logic board. Remove this cable in the picture above using your pry tool. Gently lift upwards and it will pop right off.

2. Next gently lift the camera out of the device. You'll notice there is a tiny tab that is seated underneath the LCD and digitizer cables to the right.

3. Next pop up the LCD and digitizer cables to the right of where the camera cable was connected. You pop them up in the same direction.

4. The 3 cables further to the right will need to be disconnected as well. They pop up in the opposite direction.

Remove the logic board

1. Start with the 2 screws holding the logic board down in the middle and at the bottom left. Both use your #00 Phillips screwdriver. They are the same size. The one on the right of the logic board in the middle of the device has a water sensor over it you'll need to remove.
2. The second screw is located where the logic board meets the speaker assembly towards the bottom left of the device.

3. The third and final screw holding the logic board in is located at the top of the logic board off to the right. It is the only cross-head screw in your device. Use a small flathead screwdriver to carefully remove it.

4. You should now be able to remove your logic board. Holding it at the bottom, gently pull it upwards. I use my other hand to lift up at the top where the rear facing camera used to be.
5. Take note that there is a small rubber piece that sits at the top of the logic board. You will need this for re-assembly so make sure it doesn't fall off. If you lose this, you could see reception issues.

Remove the speaker assembly

1. To remove the speaker assembly you have one more #00 screw to remove. It sits to the right of the speaker assembly in the bottom right hand corner of your device. Remove it.
2. The second screw holding the speaker assembly into your iPhone you've already removed when you removed the logic board.
3. Gently lift the speaker assembly out of your device and set it aside.

Remove the vibrator assembly

1. Locate your vibrator assembly in the upper right hand corner of your iPhone 4 (assuming you're looking at it from the back).

2. It is held in with two screws. Use your #00 Phillips screwdriver and remove them. The screw on the left will be significantly longer. Just remember which screw came from where.

3. Next, gently lift the vibrator assembly out of the device.

Remove the 4 screws in each corner

There are 10 total screws that attach your iPhone 4 LCD/Digitizer assembly to your frame. The 4 in the corners will need to be completely removed. They are all #00 screws.

Loosen the remaining 6 screws

These screws run along the sides of your iPhone and also have washers on them. I find it best to just loosen them opposed to removing them completely. The washers are not fun to put back in. Loosening them will allow you to remove the LCD/Digitizer assembly just as easily. About 2 1/2 to 3 turns for each screw should loosen them up enough to continue. If you feel the washer wobbling back and forth a bit, you've loosened it enough.

Remove the LCD/Digitizer assembly from your iPhone

This is where it can get a bit tricky. Your screen is held in not only with the 10 screws mentioned above but also with strong adhesive. You will need to break this adhesive in order to remove the front panel.

1. Hold your iPhone in one hand with the screen facing you. Starting in the top left hand corner, run a pry tool or razor blade in between the frame and front panel. You'll need to pry up quite a bit in order to break the adhesive. Be careful around the front facing camera and speaker area.

2. Next move your pry tool or razor blade to the bottom of your device and do the same thing, working your way around until the adhesive is broken and the front panel starts to come off.

3. To completely remove the front panel - start at the top of your iPhone and gently pull the assembly away from the frame. Be careful to allow the LCD and digitizer cables to slip through the opening in the frame without getting caught up.

Remove the old home button and cable

1. Flip the phone back over and look by your dock connector. There is a tiny bracket that holds the home button flex cable in place. You'll need to flip up the clip on the bracket. Be very gentle as it can break easily.
2. Next, carefully back out the cable from the bracket.
3. You can now remove the home button flex cable by pushing it through the opening in the front of the frame. The home button and the flex cable will come off in one piece.
4. If you are only replacing the cable, peel the actual home button off the old cable and apply it to the new one.

Put in the new home button and cable

1. Starting from the front of the frame you'll need to stick the flex cable through the opening just as you had taken the other one out.
2. Next you'll need to gently wiggle the cable connector back into the bracket and clip it back down. The bracket is very small and it may take a few tries to get the cable seated all the way in.
3. Clip the cable back down.
4. Turn your iPhone back over and make sure your home button is aligned and straight. Push it down once or twice to make sure you are getting better feedback than before. You should hear a click and it should feel springy if it is installed correctly.

Reassembly

In order to re-assemble your device, follow these instruction in the exact opposite order or watch the reassembly video below.

Tip: When reassembling your front panel, make sure the LCD and digitizer cables come through and they are both the same height. They tend to crimp up occasionally and you'll have issues snapping them down to the logic board if they aren't even.

And... done!

You should now have a home button that's a lot more responsive and be ready to go!

Have you done this repair yourself? Let us know how it went! Want to know how to perform another type of iPhone repair or modification? Send me suggestions to ally.kazmucha@imore.com or leave a comment in our brand new Mod and DIY Repair Forum!

For questions or to inquire about mail-in repairs through PXLFIX, please follow us on Twitter, like us on Facebook or e-mail us directly! Of course, you can like us and follow us just because you think we're cool too!

Replacing the rear camera in your GSM or CDMA iPhone 4 isn't a very difficult DIY repair, as long as you have the right tools and parts. We'll walk you through step by step and show you how to get your camera back into working order in no time. While the GSM and CDMA variants are slightly different, the guide will work for both. So grab your tools and your sad iPhone 4 and follow along!

Disclaimer: As with any repair, iMore nor PXLFIX can be held responsible for any damage you may do to your device. It’s also worth considering that opening up your device to perform any repair or modification can and will void your Apple warranty. If you don’t feel comfortable opening your device, don’t. Use extreme care and caution when performing a repair on any device.

What you need for a DIY iPhone 4 rear camera repair

PXLFIX recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like eTech Parts. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• GSM or CDMA iPhone 4
• Rear camera replacement - iPhone 4 camera
• #00 Phillips screwdriver
• Pry tool or spudger
• Security screwdriver (only if your iPhone has 5-point security screws in the dock connector)

Power off your iPhone 4

Before performing any repair, always power off your device before removing any screws or parts.

Remove the back of your iPhone

1. First remove the bottom 2 dock connector screws in your iPhone 4. Use either your #00 screwdriver or the five point depending on whether or not your iPhone 4 has security screws in the dock connector. Almost all newer devices will have security screws.

2. To remove the back simply slide the back upwards and lift it off gently.
3. Set the back and 2 dock connector screws aside.

Before we move on to actually replacing the camera. You may want to make sure your back plate is not the culprit if your camera is producing bad images. Check and make sure neither the inside or outside of the lens cover is scratches or cloudy. If it is, try taking a picture with your back cover removed. If the pictures turn out fine, you'll just need to replace your iPhone 4 back cover. If your images are still blurry or the camera does not function at all, you'll need to continue on to replace the actual rear camera component.

Remove the battery

1. To remove the battery you’ll need to remove the #00 screw holding the battery clip in place. Remove this screw located to the bottom left of the battery.

2. The metal clip on the battery is what clips the battery to the logic board. You’ll need to pop this clip up with your plastic pry tool. Simply stick the end of your pry tool underneath the clip and gently pull upwards until it unfastens from the logic board.

3. To remove the battery, I do not recommend using the plastic pull tab. There is quite a bit of adhesive underneath the battery and the tab will normally just rip off or you can bend the battery. Instead, run your pry tool along the right side of the battery and break the adhesive that way. Once the battery is free from the adhesive, you can pull the battery out of the phone. There are no other connectors holding it in.

4. GSM iPhone 4 users will notice a tiny grounding clip sitting underneath where you unscrewed the battery. Set this aside for replacement during reassembly. This is a grounding clip for your antenna. Make sure you put it back in place before reconnecting your battery. CDMA users will not see this as it is in a different location.

Remove the top logic board shield

1. There are 5 screws holding the logic board shield in place. Depending on whether you have a CDMA or GSM iPhone 4, your shield will look different. The process is the same though. Simply remove the 5 screws holding it in place. Just be sure to remember which holes they came out of as the screws are different sizes. I always keep them in order of how they came out.

2. Next you'll need to remove the shield. Both models have a tiny clip built into the shield holding it in place. (Refer to the photo above.) Pop it up with your pry tool and you should be able to slide the shield up fairly easily. Just take care not to bend it or break off a clip. The Verizon variant seats into the logic board with two tiny notches underneath the camera connection. When reassembling, just line up the two notches on the shield and it will slide into place easily. For the AT&T model, just make sure the clip in the photo above is the first part you insert and it will line up nicely again.

Replace the rear camera

1. There is only one connector holding the camera to the logic board. Simply remove this cable in the picture above using your pry tool. Gently lift upwards and it will pop right off.

2. Next gently lift the camera out of the device. You'll notice there is a tiny tab that is seated underneath the LCD and digitizer cables to the right.

3. To insert the new camera, start by sliding the tabbed part underneath the two cables and then push down gently to seat the camera. Try not to touch the lens at all.

4. Re-fasten the cable to the logic board.

And ...done!

That's it! All you'll need to do now is reassemble your device in the reverse order and you'll be taking pictures again in no time.

Have you done this repair yourself? Let us know how it went! Want to know how to perform another type of iPhone repair or modification? Send me suggestions to ally.kazmucha@tipb.com or leave a comment in our brand new Mod and DIY Repair Forum!

For repair questions or to inquire about mail-in repairs through PXLFIX, please follow us on Twitter or e-mail us directly!

If the vibrate function of AT&T/GSM iPhone 4 isn't working or is very faint, you may need a new vibrator assembly. If you're out of warranty but have just a little bit of ninja skill, it's a very cheap and easy repair to perform yourself.

It's worth noting that this guide is only valid for the AT&T or other GSM variant of the iPhone 4. The iPhone 4S and Verizon/CDMA iPhone 4 are very similar internally but very different from the GSM variant of the original iPhone 4. So if your iPhone 4 is not AT&T/GSM, proceed no further young Jedi!

Disclaimer: As with any repair, iMore nor PXLFIX can be held responsible for any damage you may do to your device. It’s also worth considering that opening up your device to perform any repair or modification can and will void your Apple warranty. If you don’t feel comfortable opening your device, don’t. Use extreme care and caution when performing a repair on any device.

What you need for a DIY vibrator assembly repair

PXLFIX recommends using only quality and genuine parts from a reputable supplier like eTech Parts. They have quality parts, tools, and much more for all your repair needs.

• A GSM iPhone 4
• Replacement vibrator assembly - GSM iPhone 4 vibrator assembly
• #00 Phillips screwdriver
• Security screwdriver (only if your iPhone has the security screws in the dock connector)

Power off your iPhone 4

You should always power off your device before performing any type of internal repair work. Simply hold down your top power button and Slide to power off.

Remove the back of your iPhone 4

1. First remove the bottom 2 dock connector screws in your iPhone 4. Use either your #00 screwdriver or the five point depending on whether or not your iPhone 4 has security screws in the dock connector. Almost all newer devices will have security screws.

2. To remove the back simply slide the back upwards and lift it off gently.
3. Set the back and 2 dock connector screws aside.

Replace the vibrator assembly

1. Locate your vibrator assembly in the upper right hand corner of your iPhone 4 (assuming you're looking at it from the back).

2. It is held in with two screws. Use your #00 Phillips screwdriver and remove them. The screw on the left will be significantly longer. Just remember which screw came from where.

3. Next, gently lift the old vibrator assembly out of the device.

4. Place the new one in carefully and replace the two screws that hold it in place.

Reassemble your iPhone

All you need to do now is replace the back on your iPhone 4 and put the two dock connector screws back in.

And ...done!

That's all there is to it! Have you done this repair yourself? Let us know how it went! Want to know how to perform another type of iPhone repair or modification? Send me suggestions to ally.kazmucha@tipb.com or leave a comment in our brand new Mod and DIY Repair Forum!

For repair questions or to inquire about mail-in repairs through PXLFIX, follow us on Twitter or e-mail us directly!

Sprint and Verizon will offer the iPhone 4S with an unlocked micro-SIM card slot according to information given to Macworld. The iPhone 4S is the first iPhone that can be classed as a world phone which means it has a GSM and CDMA radio. This is particularly useful if travelling overseas where CDMA networks are few and far between.

In simple terms, this means that users of Sprint or Verizon who buy an iPhone 4S and travel overseas will have the ability to install a local micro-SIM card in their phone; to use on GSM networks. AT&T will still offer the iPhone 4S with a locked micro-SIM card slot; which means users can roam on overseas GSM networks but do so via AT&T agreements with local carriers. This leads to a huge increase in call and data charges with this method.

If you use Sprint or Verizon and travel overseas, having an unlocked phone could save you a considerable amount of money. The downside however is that your number will be different when using a local micro-SIM card. Sprint’s iPhone 4S will be unlocked from day one but Verizon will do it on request after 60 days; as long as your account is in good standing.

Source: Macworld

A leak in iTunes may have settled the rumors and debates about the design and name of the next iPhone. iTunes 10.5 beta 9 includes image files for the new iPhone - and they look exactly like the CDMA iPhone 4. Additionally, the files reference the new handset as 'iPhone 4S'. Both of these findings are exactly what TiPb has been hearing all along.

Also notable is that the files reference only two new iPhone 4S models: black and white, whereas the iPhone 4 references 4 models: black/GSM, black/CDMA, white/GSM, and white/CDMA. This is a strong indicator that the iPhone 4S will be a dual-mode, GSM+CDMA handset.

We are now only 3 days away from putting all the rumors to rest, because on Tuesday, Apple will reveal the truth.

Continue speculating in the meantime!

Source: 9TO5 Mac, AppleInsider

Right now iPhone 5, like any dark matter, can only be observed by its effects on others, including the log traces it leaves and the cases manufacturers leak. This time it's TechCrunch, citing an undisclosed developer who's iOS app, points to records of a never-before-seen dual-mode GSM/CDMA world phone.

The logs show that the app has been briefly tested by a handful of people using what is almost certainly an iPhone 5, evidently running iOS 5, sporting two distinct sets of mobile network codes (MNC) / mobile country codes (MCC). Those codes can be used to uniquely identify mobile carriers.

Sure enough, some registrations for the app – which the developer also asked not to be named – were logged from a new Apple device, using the MNC/MCC codes from both Verizon and AT&T.

Apple has had theoretical support for a world phone since switching to Qualcomm chips, but previous iPhone 4 models haven't enabled the feature. Turning it on would likely be bad news for those hoping iPhone 5 would sport LTE (the faster and closest to a "real" next generation wireless technology). HSPA+, a not-quite-as-fast but far more widespread "4G" protocol looks like a safer bet, though it would leave Verizon behind on the same EVDO Rev A speed the current iPhone supports. (See TiPb's guide to wireless network terminology for more on what this all means.)

In other words, Verizon could advertise a world phone but AT&T could say they have a 4G iPhone.

[TechCrunch]

Sn0wBreeze for Windows users has now officially been updated to support iOS 5 beta 6 users. We reported the old version of Sn0wBreeze already working for some users, yet others had complications. But the tool has now been updated to officially support beta 6.

Yes the jailbreak is still tethered (with the exception of old bootrom iPhone 3GS users). This version of Sn0wBreeze not only lets you jailbreak iOS 5 beta 6, it will also allow you to skip the UDID check. This basically means you can install the beta without having a developer's license. (We don't condone this but to each their own.) Sn0wBreeze will also preserve your baseband like before and allow "hacktivation". The following devices are supported -

• Original iPad
• iPhone 3GS (if you had the older bootrom it will also be untethered)
• iPhone 4 (GSM)
• iPhone 4 (CDMA)
• iPod Touch 3G
• iPod Touch 4

Keep in mind that not only is iOS 5 still in beta but that these jailbreaks are also beta. So if you're not afraid of some bugs and are already aware of the risks involved, simply hit the link below to download the updated version of Sn0wBreeze.

[Sn0wBreeze 2.8b6 download link]

Needham analyst Charlie Wolf thinks most Verizon Android users have been holding out for the iPhone 5, and once it's released, a mass exodus from the Android platform will ensue.

Verizon’s Android users are waiting for the iPhone 5. And when it arrives this fall, they’ll make the switch en masse.

Wolf suspects some Verizon subscribers chose not to pick up the Verizon iPhone after it debuted last February, some 8 months later than the iPhone 4 on AT&T.

“It’s reasonable to assume that a material percentage of Verizon subscribers who plan to switch were content to wait until the iPhone 5 arrived later this year,” says Wolf. “One reason Apple delayed the launch of iPhone 5 until September is that it reportedly plans to coordinate the launch of the GSM and CDMA versions of the phone. To do so in June would likely have upset Verizon subscribers who purchased iPhone 4 in the preceding months. It’s our expectation, then, that the anticipated surge in iPhone sales on the Verizon network is likely to occur this fall after Apple launches iPhone 5.”

TiPb has heard that the Verizon deal was a factor in Apple not launching iPhone 5 in June. However, it's just as likely that Verizon users are on contracts with a wide range of end dates, and would be penalized for switching outside their renewal window. If they want a full subsidy, especially for a device that's been on the market since June 2010, they'd wait for it. That means, rather than a sudden rush last February or this fall, we could see a slow, steady transition over time as contracts come up for renewal, and those Verizon users who want an iPhone make the switch.

Of course, not everyone is going to want an iPhone either. By fall there will no doubt be new Verizon Android devices out as well, including those with LTE data speeds -- something iPhone isn't suspected to match until 2012. That could make the decision more difficult and more complicated.

What do you think? Will Verizon Android users be switching en masse come iPhone 5 this fall?

[AllThingsD]

Both black and white models are available in 16GB and 32GB flavors. It will set you back $649 for the 16GB model and $749 for the 32GB. Shipping is quoted at 1-3 days.

Get all the features of iPhone 4 — FaceTime video calling, Retina display, HD video recording, and more — in a phone that you can activate and use on the supported GSM wireless carrier of your choice, such as AT&T in the United States. If you don’t want a multiyear service contract or if you prefer to use a local carrier when traveling abroad, the unlocked iPhone 4 is the best choice. It arrives without a micro-SIM card, so you’ll need an active micro-SIM card from any supported GSM carrier worldwide.

There is no mention of any support for T-Mobile AWS frequencies so you wouldn't get any 3G data on that network. We assume, then, that this new offer is aimed more at those who travel and would benefit from using local SIM cards at their destination. Like iMessage it could also be a show of strength to the US carriers, or a way to help ease the regulatory wheels by showing how open and available iPhone is in the US.

No word yet on whether AT&T will offer to unlock any existing, previously locked iPhones. In the UK, carriers do offer to unlock for a fee, while in Canada, no carrier unlocks have been made available.

Are any of our readers planning on picking up an unlocked iPhone 4? Is the price too high? Let us know in the comments!

[Apple Store]

Apple has put up a job post requesting a carrier technician familiar with the Sprint network, which has led many to believe they may be prepping to include Sprint in their ammunition chest of US carriers that support the iPhone.

Apple in a newly discovered job posting effectively gave away plans to make a Sprint iPhone. A position for a "carrier engineer" is being offered that would work out of Kansas City, Missouri, just a short distance from Sprint's Overland Park, Kansas headquarters. The recruit would be responsible for getting technical certification of devices in an area where Sprint is the only company with a major office.

This goes along with recent rumors of the iPhone 5 possibly including Sprint and T-Mobile as supported carriers, and also backs up Verizon's claims that the next iPhone will be a world phone supporting both CDMA and GSM networks.

You may recall Apple was seeking CDMA engineers in a similar job posting late last year, which eventually led to the Verizon iPhone being released on the network shortly after.

Do you think we'll be seeing the iPhone on Sprint anytime soon? Let us know in the comments!

[Stop it, AT&T via Electronista]

Ultrasn0w has been updated by the Dev Team to include support for unlocking iOS 4.3.2. So if you've been holding off on upgrading and waiting patiently (or impatiently) for an unlock, you can now have your cake and eat it too! As always, you'll need to be running a compatible baseband version (meaning don't upgrade to 4.3.2 via iTunes!) Hit the jump for a walk-through!

What you need

• AT&T/GSM iPhone running a preserved baseband (refer below for compatibility list)
• PwnageTool - download for Mac
• Ultrasn0w (downloaded via Cydia)

Compatible Basebands

• 01.59.00
• 04.26.08
• 05.11.07
• 05.12.01
• 05.13.04
• 06.15.00

Not sure? We have a tip on how to find out what iPhone baseband you're running. Check it out, and if yours is listed, you are okay to move on. If it isn't, please do not attempt an unlock at this time. As you can see in the screen above, mine is not compatible. I have AT&T so I have not been concerned about preserving my baseband.

Jailbreak with PwnageTool

If you have already done this, skip ahead to the next section. If you haven't, you will need to download PwnageTool for Mac as well as the iOS 4.3.2 IPSW file for iPhone 4 or iPhone 3GS

Make sure you save the IPSW file somewhere you can easily navigate to. I always save mine on my desktop for example.

Then simply follow the instructions on screen to jailbreak via PwnageTool. Once you're done with that and Cydia is installed, you're ready to move on. (Not sure what that is? Check out our how to use Cydia, the Jailbreak store tip.

Unlock your iPhone with Ultrasn0w

First you will need to add the repo for Ultrasn0w. Simply tap Manage and then Sources in Cydia. Tap edit and then the "+" sign to add the Ultrasn0w repository which is http://repo666.ultrasn0w.com

Next search for Ultrasn0w in Cydia under the search tab. Ultrasn0w 1.2.2 should now pop up. Simply install it and reboot your device. You should now have an unlocked iPhone running on iOS 4.3.2!

If you run into any issues or have any questions, let us know in the comments or check out our official TiPb jailbreak and unlock forums for answers to many commonly asked questions!

South Korean carrier SK Telecom announced yesterday that it will begin offering the iPhone 4 on March 16th, further expanding the reach Apple has made in Korea and breaking the exclusivity KT Telecom previously held for the iPhone.

"SK Telecom is proud to offer iPhone 4 on the nation's top network," said So Jin-Woo, President of Platform Business and Co-CEO of SK Telecom. "Our customers will benefit from flexible tariff plans tailored to their unique usage needs along with a high level of customer care."

Eager iPhone buyers can pre-register starting today from their website or at one of 1,500 authorized SK Telecom retail outlets. Although SK Telecom runs both CDMA and HSPA networks they have announced the iPhone 4 will function under their HSPA infrastructure.

Any readers in Korea planning on picking up an iPhone 4 on March 16th? Let us know in the comments!

[SK Telecom]

Instead of releasing separate iPad 2 models for AT&T/GSM and Verizon/CDMA, why doesn't Apple just use that new Qualcomm dual-mode chipset and support both GSM and CDMA on one device? That way users could not only swap microSIMs and move between different GSM/HSPA networks when they travel abroad, they could switch between AT&T and Verizon's CDMA/EVDO networks when at home. (For an explanation of what all those terms mean see TiPb's data and wireless networking glossary.)

Well, if the Verizon iPhone is any indication, Apple may indeed be using Qualcomm's MDM6600 dual-mode chipset, only enabling CDMA on the Verizon version. However, the radio is only part of the equation. The other part is the antenna. Supporting different frequency bands requires different antennas at different lengths.

The AT&T/GSM model supports 850, 900, 1900, and 2100 MHz for UMTS/HSPA, and 850, 900, 1800, and 1900 MHz for GSM/EDGE. That's 5 bands (pentaband) already.

The CDMA/Verizon mode supports 800 and 1900 MHz for CDMA/EVDO rev. A. That's 2 bands (dualband).

If -- and I'm no radio engineer so I don't know -- the same antenna could work for both GSM and CDMA on 1900, Apple would still have to add the 800 MHz band for a minimum of 6 bands (hexaband) to support both GSM and CDMA in one model. (It might also require more or different internal connections on a tiny, tiny motherboard.)

While it's never wise to underestimate Apple, they may simply not be able to engineer a hexaband antenna at this point. (No death-touch jokes please.)

AT&T has been prepping a new advertisement plan to do what they can to keep people from switching to the Verizon iPhone. AT&T plans to focus its ads on the fact they say their network has faster 3G speeds and overall performs better than Verizon's network (not sure who they are fooling with that!).

More so than just advertising, AT&T has been taking other steps in preparation for this day of the lose of exclusivity. They have been investing in improvements to their highly criticized network as well as been promoting lower prices for older iPhone models and introducing Android and Windows Phone 7 devices.

AT&T's Chief Executive of Wireless Business, Ralph de la Vega, was asked Monday about what their plans were for the time when they lose exclusivity of the iPhone:

We are ready for it. The short- and long-term viability of AT&T will be good whether we have exclusivity or not. We are much bigger than this.

According to Consumer Reports, AT&T was ranked dead last being named the worst carrier in the US. AT&T better have a good plan in place to make up for all the issues they have run into since the iPhone launched.

One interesting note about this entire thing is the fact AT&T seemed to hit big with allowing customers to upgrade early to the iPhone 4 locking them into a brand new 2-year contract with early termination fees hitting at $325 per smartphone on your plan. This would be big revenue for AT&T if people decide to defect prior to their contract expiring.

[ The Wall Street Journal ]

DigiTimes is claiming that, according to Taiwan based component suppliers, Apple has its iPhone shipment targets for the first quarter of 2011 from 19 million units to 20-21 million units. This would be up from their estimated 15.5 million units shipped in the fourth quarter of 2010. Additionally:

The first-quarter shipment goal for WCDMA iPhones has been adjusted from 13 million units to 14-15 million units, the sources said. The shipment goal for CDMA iPhones, which will be launched in North America and Asia Pacific in the first quarter, is set at 5-6 million units, the sources added.

We have all heard the rumors of an early 2011 Verizon launch but could these numbers indicate a possible reality to finally put an end to Verizon iPhone rumors? Looks like we have just a little more waiting to do as 2011 is just around the corner now.

[ DigiTimes ]

According to Wedge Partners anaylst Brian Blair, Apple appears to be developing a "world iPad" that would feature Qualcomm's multimode CDMA-GSM chips.

Recent checks…suggest Apple is going to be ratcheting down production of the existing 3G iPad over the next two months in anticipation of ramping up a new World iPad that is powered by Qualcomm and will run on both GSM and CDMA based networks around the world,” Blair writes. “Given our recent checks that suggest Apple is preparing to build approximately 48 million iPads in calendar 2011.

Blair also went on to report that the manufacturing process will be different due to the next generation iPad being possibly thinner and made of one piece of metal.

With a CDMA-GSM iPad possibly gearing up to hit production this could mean that either they want more people to be able to utilize the iPad on 3G all around the globe or that they have plans to make the iPad be able to run on Verizon's 3G network here in the U.S.. We already have seen Apple and Verizon come together to sell the WiFi only iPad bundled with their MiFi. This type of chip would eliminate the need to utilize a MiFi type device in the future.

We know people are tired of the Verizon rumors and speculations but would you like to utilize the iPad on their network here in the U.S.? If you are not in the U.S. is there a CDMA carrier you would like to be able to utilize for 3G use with your iPad? Let us know your thoughts below.

[ Digital Daily ]

Steve Jobs announced as part of the iPad event, that Apple's new device will come with WiFi 802.11n, and also have a prepaid (no contract) 3G option via unlocked GMS.

If you're on AT&T, you can get contract-free pricing, $14.99 for 256MB/month, $29.99 for "unlimited".

International carrier pricing will be coming in June/July.

[Image via GDGT]

The cracking of GSM "encryption" has been making the inter-rounds lately, and this week on the Security Now! Podcast, Steve Gibson takes a look at how badly it's broken, and what the potential risks are. In simple terms, it means what you say on your iPhone -- or any GSM phone, which includes all phones on AT&T, T-Mobile, Rogers, and almost all phones internationally -- can be intercepted, decrypted, and listened to if a person has several thousand dollars worth of equipment and the motivation to do it. In more complex terms:

So again, we're now at the hobby level. We're at the level where the hobbyist with a couple thousand dollars can - needs to know nothing about radio and even hardware. And even all of the preprocessing steps for demultiplexing the data and analyzing it and performing spectrum analysis and finding the channels and everything, all of that's been done. There's even some people have taken - they're not at the GPL licensing, but they are - so they're proprietary licenses, but free, but they're open source and free for personal use, where turnkey packages to pull all this data together have been produced. There's even one which abstracts this USRP, this Universal Software Radio Peripheral, making it look like a network device so that Wireshark, our favorite packet capture utility, is able to capture GSM packets and decode them and show you all the bits and all the protocols and everything going on in a stream that you capture.

So, I mean, we're way far along in making this possible. In my opinion, this GSM Alliance is - they're saying what they have to say politically; but, if they really believe what they're saying, that they're in serious denial because this is no longer James Bond government-level sci-fi stuff. It would be entirely possible for a company who wanted to do some surveillance of a competitor to equip a van with some of this equipment, spending only tens of thousands of dollars, park it across the street from a competitor, aim their antennas at the competitor's building, and spend a day just streaming in, sucking in all of the cellphone traffic that is being transacted by the employees within the building, and then drive the van off and decrypt those conversations offline afterwards and find out what was being said. I mean, it is no longer difficult to do. It's entirely possible.

It should be noted that the GSMA (GSM Alliance) seems to consider this attack theoretical and impractical for now. If you're interested in more, check out the audio podcast [MP3 link] or the transcript.

A VoIP company called iCall has developed a program for the iPhone that enables seamless switching of calls from GSM to WiFi. Meaning: iCall will prompt you to switch your phone calls, mid-call, to WiFi so you don't waste your minutes. Meaning: It's Free! Though the desktop version of iCall is only available for Windows (Mac Support is on the way) this will probably be one of the more useful VoIP clients for the iPhone.

People who are familiar with T-Mobile's use of UMA and HotSpot@Home technology will tell you that calls over Wi-Fi are not only free (with the right plan), but often times even better. Using VoIP instead of your minutes would help ease the drain for plenty of users who are always near WiFi and potentially offer international travelers free calls back home.

Currently, iCall is in private beta but plans for a public release very soon. In fact, you won't even have to jailbreak for this app because the folks over at iCall are confident it'll be a part of the App Store. 

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